jasonm.

local auto parts store...not national chain...7mm 20 strand wire .35 / ft. I don't like NGK caps . They are 5k ohms. Had them internally separate after 3k miles. Check caps OEM with ohm meter 9-11k ohms is the rating for OEM. Your original caps can be internally cleaned where the resistor and parts sit. You just need a good flat tip screwdriver. You do not clean the resistor...you clean the spring and brass parts with 1500 paper. There is a tiny brass washer...don't loose it. I have had caps reading 11k and cleaned the metal parts and got them to 9.5k ohms. OEM caps are expensive. But well made. The parts are installed spring , washer, resistor. I think...it's been years

cleaning is done by lightly using 1000 paper between the "wiper" and the sender coil where they meet. If this does not make sense. Then you may have not cleaned the sender. Do you have 30 ohms when full...that's good. But I had the same issue when 1/2 full and the cleaning I describe cured it. Otherwise you have a loose wire by/to the sensor. Also lightly bending the wiper against the coil...makes a positive connection. Careful...it's sensitive area.

if it's connected to the + side ...disconnect it...otherwise you could let the magic smoke out...ZAP

that location is not visable with all fairing pieces in place and sitting on the bike. Mine sits between clutch and water pump. I can easily see it when stopped. Just took a couple of 45 fittings from pep boys........... picture coming

these connection are GOLD plated. CHeck the sockets that mate up don't have loose screws. I used blue loctite on the little screws

here's the easiest ACCURATE way to check. 1st bike on center stand.(2nd) remove air box.Note: the air box has 2 hoses connected to it, left front and center rear. (3rd) find a 4 inch level. Shim the center stand till the carb(s) are perfectly level at multiple angles. the carbs are not all level together and will require you check ONE at a time and move shims. I use junk thin steel snd aluminum. (4) Then note the raised line cast into the carbs below the diaphragm area. This simblizes the center of the slide. Connect CLEAR 1/8 hose to the drain(s) one at a time to test. The level is to be 16mm BELOW the cast line. +/- .5mm. As you can see this is a critical measurement. You may wish to scribe a line on the carb at 16mm below this cast line. Start the bike open the drain screw and hold the hose up near the cast line. Physical law will not allow the fuel to read higher in the hose than what is in the carb. Make sure no air bubbles. Then move to next carb and confirm it's level. Note: you may need to by a vacuum adapeter 1/8 to 1/8 to connect the hose.

I posted this before....You should never rotate the crank without ALL shims in place. Write down the numbers and reinstall before checking the others. Reading the manual helps. Sounds like you now have it fixed. But the shims are glass smooth and anything other than a shim in the bucket can scratch the cams and take the hard chrome plating off.

Don't do what you are suggesting. Your shrink tubing idea is just another wicking thing. ALL YAMAHAs from the 80's develope a slow leak at the wires. It's the wires exterior protection WEAVE that acts as a WICK and draws the oil out. You can again and again spray with brake cleaner. And use ONLY permatex ultra black or grey globbed in and around the wires. ME... outside of the generator cover I completely and carefully removed the outside weave insulation then the inner rubber insulation and separated the wires then put lots of permatex. Permatex ultra RTV is the best and strongest insulator. Let it sit 24hours. If you have Suzuki dealer near. They sell a Suzuki brand RTV black and grey. Also very good. I like black. Mine leaks maybe a tablespoon every 3000 miles. Parking it overnight on the center stand helps too. Yes, the gear shift assy. needs removal. But taking the generator cover off for this leak by replacing the grommets .....it won't fix it. As long as you have braided jacket wire insulation it can leak.

do not soak carbs in some solvents. As some damage rubber parts. There are rubber throttle shaft seals. Once those are bad. Your sunk! BEST thing to do is BACK FEED Berrymans or similar cleaner thru the carb drain hoses. If it's varnish...it will eat it in minutes

With 275 shim in...WHAT'S the clearance ? With the shim in and do a compression test...I know ...sounds odd. But do it UNLESS you think the piston will hit the valve. Turn crank by hand 1st

take the carb TOPS off and look for holed , torn diaphragms. Could be just one or 2. But I had the exact issue at 45mph. vacuum "boost" sensor got disconnected...and that was all it was. Could be bad vacuum(boost) sensor not advancing the ignition properly. It's above the left front cylinder

what ever you read about 25mm is wrong. To do correctly you must view the FUEL level, because floats vary with age. MUST HAVE PERFECTLY LEVEL CARB AND USE PROCEDURE IN OEM MANUAL. FYI- seperate then to two banks

Need some clarity here.....you should never spin the cams w/o a shim in place. Did you do this before you replaced the shim? What was the shim size before and what was the clearance measured

I have a 60 psi gauge that is pinned on start up. 100 psi gauge is useless. Either you had a 100psi gauge or there is something wrong with your bike. Mine runs 70psi on start up(pinned)and rarely falls below 8psi...normal idle fully warmed up is 10psi. I made my set up with parts from PepBoys and a gauge from my local H-D accessory bike shop. Yes that allen plug is removed and you put a plug w/gasket , you tap plug with 1/8" NPT.

I have had this 87' royale for 25 years. Reading this could save you problems. The chrome rack assembly that the trunk sits on, mounts to the frame at 4 points. These 4 frame points can crack or BREAK. I found the reason being the factory simply does not exactly make these racks to match up every time. They use air wrenches during assy. And things are forced to fit. And even if you removed the trunk and rack for servicing the air compressor...you thought this was normal...okay. IT'S NOT OKAY. You are placing twisting forces to the steel frame mounts which hold the rack assembly. And if you typically ride with a loaded trunk, stresses increase. And if you also have an OEM trunk light bar like I did with 16 lights(8 is standard)..that's an extra 7 pounds hanging out there. The trunk with OEM rack weighs close to 30# then is rated for another 20#. That's 50# bouncing and potentially adding to the stresses. The most common cracking is the front "L" mounts where they make a 90 degree bend. I was lucky and had a low mileage parts bike and swapped rear frames and chrome racks. BUT the rack from my low mileage parts bike also did not line up properly. And it also had a short stress crack at the 90 degree bend on right tab, which a welded. Which clearly was due to this misalignment. FYI- to mount the chrome rack you must FIRST install the two bolts closest to the seat and tighten them completey. Then see if the other two rear holes line up. High probability, they do not line up. You can try loosening the two fron bolt to get the rear 2 close as possible. But you only have approx. 2 mm you can move it. BUT you likely will need a rasp file to widen the rear holes. Or possibly with 2 front bolts tightened, need to torch the front mounts on the chrome rack red hot and bend the rack into place vertically. Bottom line DO NOT put all 4 bolts in at the same time. Do front completely tight w/o the rears installed, then rear. When perfectly aligned...The rears should go in without ANY resistance by touching the chrome rack. Not sure if MKI is similar. Probably is. Remove seat and plastic black back panels near tail light..Look at your frame NOW. I hope to post pictures...it was bad. Look carefully and let me know if you found cracks. MAYBE Use a magnafying glass and look at the paint. Lastly...I ride solo and only need the trunk to safely lock up the helmet. For now the trunk is off and will stay off till a long trip. And the bike handles WOW better. Always a great handling bike, now only better. Handles just like my friend's FJR13. Maybe the MK1 guys w/removable trunk have done this and already know.

the bad ground issue is common on many bikes. The Vision guys have done a direct ground from the RR black to frame ground. But still, me and the manual says 23K for spark plug/cap combo is too much. FYI- your on your way to cracked coils. All my caps read 10k like the manual states and the resistor spark plugs approx 5k. Your wire should be copper core non-resistor type. thus 15k total.

i got mine .35 / foot. True copper core hypalon 7mm. 3 years ago. I got 10 feet for both my bikes

you say RUBBER seal at the shift ...into engine. You mean shifter seal ? You actually may not need to replace exhaust gaskets. My exhaust has been offmany times..no leaks. If it is the shifter seal. You need to carefully use a drywall screw or 2 to extract the seal. Careful because you do not want to nick the shifter shaft or case where the seal sits.

I know a guy with 1st year Vmax has had the 2nd gear supposedly fixed TWICE. Whether it was the gear and the washer I am not sure.

yes one tank not 2 as many state. The fuel sender can be calibrated by removal and bending the float arm. When my light comes on and stays on...I have exactly one gallon. Also most do not realize they are not truly filling the tank on a 1st gen.. You can squeeze in another 1+ quarts if you let the fuel settle and fill a bit more. I can consistantly run ~ 180 before the reserve light come on. And this is hiway at 75mph. Much of this is due to my going completely thrru the carbs a few years back. No mods just new floats. Ethanol with water is trashing your floats.

the fan is triggered by completing the GROUND. You just need a lighted switch and run a 12v + to switch as needed. LOOK at the wiring diagram for the switch you use.

Avon tire on the rear ? They make a serious whine in corners. And you need to have proper pressure. Most tires have MAX. rear 42psi. Typically when solo run 10% under max on sidewall. One exception Avon Venom-X. They take up to 50#. Meaning the Yamaha recommended pressures mean nothing. But also follow 10% rule when solo. If your daughter got off the bike and the whine went away it's the rear tire. FYI- suspension I have found following settings after 25 years with my bike......20psi solo = 200# load, 40psi= 350# load , 50psi= 400# load . Swing arm angle should not make any difference on drive shaft/diff. sounds.

there is a timer on the pump circuit. it's suppose to stop after 5 seconds. this is a safety thing in case the carb is leaking or line is bad. So far it sounds like you are jumping past the easy tests. I think you have a fuel pump relay or circuit issue. IT'S EASY TO TEST...REMOVE IN AND OUT lines on pump. Put the IN line in a cup of gas and see if it come out the out --upper hose....

I fixed my old 83 by simply brazing the thing up and stuffing a 1-1/4" pipe in there ...I think..this was over 20 years back. Removed the right muffler. Wire wheeled the thing as best as possible. Collectors do rust out when left outside

yes should this happen again do open the tank. The swoosh is not always heard. And try to restart. do not use the choke. Also...does the RSV have a fuel pump like the original Venture ?