jasonm.

I just got Commander2 on rear last year-great tire. NOW I need front tire. Michelin does not have a front available in our size. I have had bad luck with Avon VenomX recently. Thusly, that's not an option. I see the Dunlop E3 has the highest load capacity for 120/90-18 like the Avon had. Can anyone say if the E3 gives good turn in, and stability ? I ride back roads dragging the saddlebag trim WFO following my sport bike friends. ALSO any other tire options ?

yes...that's intake honk we hear with stock pipes. I have seen rpm well past redline a few times in the past 25 years with mine. But to back track. Your resistance on OEM caps is supposed to be 10k +/- 10% NOT 5k........... 5k is the spark plug or NGK caps resistance. With oem caps they do come apart. BUT the resistor should not be sanded. Which will increase the resistance. Odd but true..... I have also experienced the same thing with the resistor caps. JUST DON'T sand the resistors' ends

electrically these don't fail. It's the "rubber/silcone " membrane inside that fails. Get a mighty vac type vacuum guage and test it. It can be tested on the bike. It can be repaired once removed. But it is involved and I think posted somewhere here how to do it. I have repaired mine.

been readiing all this wonderful info from way back. As George said the cassette adapter works great. Basically because the cassette player has a preamp in it. If your cassette is junk. I am an electronics tech with 35 years in the business. Yes I did all of it the "proper" way. Relay switch etc. to seperate things. Then this wiring does work but is a bit less volume that the cassette adapter. a few minor errors in places on the actual connector #'s..... good info:080402gudl_prv:

I think you may have oil dripping from air box getting on that plug.. That's a coolant plug. Don't remove it.

what push rod SEAL? If that's the clutch push rod seal you speak of.. It REQUIRES THE CASES SPLIT. Any other way likely will leak. Or do you mean shift shaft seal? The vertical line cover(s) is covering a coolant plug. Once you remove the cover. You MUST replace the plug due to age. Are you sure it's oil ?

that's interesting...europe looks the same . But no studded mounting TABS for the trunk or antenna

look at modern sports bikes ..one hose to right caliper and a short jumper to the left. Thus the right has a double banjo bolt. Note: the modern design is a pain to bleed.

i am getting on this late. But worn bushing is probable.. They way you check is with the complete fork removed and the lower tube gently clamped in a vise. Does the upper tube have significant play ?

seriously...I posted a few weeks ago a thread. The 86-93 have a trunk that weighs with luggage rack 30# . Then they say ANOTHER 20# can go in there. But if you remove the trunk ..you still can only put on 20# directly on the chrome rack per the owners manual. Something is wrong with this math. I suspect mine broke for a few reasons.1st- I no longer have a passenger 99% of the time, where a passenger would at least damp the shaking stresses. 2nd I had a progressive rear spring that I set very firm. 3rd..the chrome rack and frame tabs just don't line up exactly= constant stress. NOW riding w/o the trunk on a MKII makes the bike truly........... sporting...it's a bagger.. yes it's all fixed and aligned now. BUT I will only use the trunk for big trips..maybe:fingers-crossed-emo

with original calipers...you must use 5/8 bore. Took me only 5 hours with new SS brake lines and all... to do the whole job and bleed it down with 5/8 bore. FYI the 86-93 calpiers have the largest bore ever from yamaha..require 5/8 to run 2. A 14 just won't cut it in an emergency. Ask yourself how close the grip can you get the lever to come ? can yu make it touch the grip ever? if yes...

I can tell you after 25 years...Do NOT pull the drive shaft out from the drive unit. You GAIN nothing by doing that on a 1300. If it don't leak ,you are good there. The other spots, splines etc. mentioned are important. I did put fittings in the relay arms. Funny they actually have flat spots to locate-line them up.

I have never heard such BS. Synthetic oil does not cause leaks. If you have a leak. Synthetics flow a little easier. Meaning you will see it easier. That's all. I have used 4 type(brands) of Synthetics including AMSoil..no leaks

yes...that's what I was going by....delinked

i don't have linked brakes...as most bikes don't. + Ventures like mine.. I thought he said he removed the linked parts. if the brakes are still linked on his 85. throw the anti dive hose away..if you have progressive front springs

i really don't look at the gauge much...so yes, right away while the computer monitor system checks all the safety sensors...brake fluid , etc.

no greasing required till a rear tire change. The rear drive has simple drain and fill. 80w90 gear oil. filler and drain to be torqued 17 ft/lbs. It's easiest to fill using some hose on end of bottle. Otherwise very messy. And carefully check the trunk for cracks. They ALL get cracks....eventually. Can be repaired with Devcon or Permatex brand plastic welder.

i apologize...it can't hurt. and may help...those who standard bleeding does not get all the air out. I have done it. .... it helped slightly.. meaning i already had the bubbles out. It's not likely to help much because the brakes hoses connect in the middle of the caliper on my 1st gen.. the majority bubbles likely go to the bleeder at 12 o'clock not up the hose. Then bleeding the next day after doing this can help. That's why I say it does not help much with 1300 1st gen. BUT R1 and R6 calipers the hose connects near the bleeder...different..yes

this is the 1st gen tech talk....LOL

the least likely is the circuit board unless the bike is always parked outside and weather on.>>>>>>>> 90% of the time the simplest solution is it... BAD connection somewhere close to the source..sender. Fuel gauge immediately(2 sec.or less) reads correctly when the key is on.. Check the external wires directly at the sender. Yes they are thin. The ground wire can get beaten up . Clean the ground wire connection. 1000 paper or fine steel wool or mothers polish

I also have done the trick of strapping the lever. But I can't change the fact pair of OEM calipers need 5/8". Strapping the lever does not allow the air bubbles up. It's actually , you are FORCING the piston seals into place. That air bubble thing was started by people who don't know how brakes work. Think about it...there is pressure in a sealed system..ain't no way it makes it easier for bubbles to come up....cheers

the OEMs... because they are extremely well made. Thus the price of $20+. Like I said you do not change what is not broken. Meaning check your original caps resistance. If they are under 10k..you are good. I have lowered the resistance of good testing ones...just by cleaning. Do a search ..I think others here have posted pictures of OEM caps apart. If you do get NGK. People will disagree... Be prepared to replace at least them every few years. Meaning a little extra wire on each lead.

jjjeeeeeeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz...i really would like a picture of WHY the trunk needs relocation.. Some of these suggestions could result in a broken rear frame...like mine . the rear of a venture has it's limits.

being a Royale owner. Space is tight in the fairing. And the original mounting area would need and adapter that I was not willing to make. So, I put mine in the left lower intake vent w/velcro. My I-R heat gun says it never goes over 90F. Plus I really do not use the lower vents much. The lower vents do vent enough when the louvers are closed. As they are NOT air tight

you should not attempt to run 2 calipers off a master cylinder designed to operate only ONE caliper. It's just wrong unless you are using R1 or R6 calipers. Otherwise you need 5/8" = 16mm..master.not 14