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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    Okay, I bought new plugs for my 87VR. So I could check how the bike is running, clean or not? Well after 500 miles on the new plugs I got some misfires at idle when hot. Like when doing a carb sync. or setting the low speed screws w/digital tach. 1st let me say I did all these same things 2 month ago w/old plugs and had no misfires. Now I decided to check everything before getting ready for Americade next week. I have new spark plug wires and caps as of 4 years ago . The misfired showed up as a loud tick coming right from the spark plug cap of #3 & #4 along with a skip or drop in rpm while simply idling, which shows clearly on my digital tach. I changed the spark cap...no change in problem. Then changed the spark plug and problem gone. The plugs removed are clean, not fouled. My low speed screws for all cylinders when adjusted show an obvious "sweet spot" varying from 2.25 to 3.5 ccw. Not trusting these new NGK DPR8EA-9 plugs. I now have all my old NGK plugs back in. I may try to get non-resistor DP8EA-9. Fact being, it's normally the resistor element being faulty under extreme heat that causes the issue. I do not like iridium plugs as the electrodes are very sensitive and should not be touched by even a gap gauge. I guess even Japan is making crap these days...Anyone else had similar problems like this???
  2. jasonm.
    YOu can fix these fairing pieces in any condition. Go to Advance Auto and buy the "5 minute plastic welder" by Permatex. Amazing stuff. Can be molded into any shape w/plastic wrap. Remove the wrap as the welder heats up. This stuff works VERY quick! Careful...the smell can make you ill.
  3. jasonm.
    WiVR is correct. The correct way is to sync (check) them at more than just idle. I also check at 3000. Reason for this is because of the linkages on the V4. You don't ride @idle.
  4. jasonm.
    For many years I have used Advance Auto wearever brake cleaner. AS it is non-chlorinated and WAS safe on paint. NOW they have changed to a 50 state formula as stated on the back of the can. The new stuff uses a black spray nozzle, previous used a clear nozzle and the new formula contains ACETONE. Thus it is no longer safe on painted surfaces. I found out the hard way. Also CRC brand in the green can seems to be the identical formula.
  5. jasonm.
    I have what I call the "bird call". A constant chirp @ 3000 rpm or so. Been like this since new. I believe it's the way the gears mesh in the engine's water pump or primary.
  6. jasonm.
    simple question. whether running or not. But easier to hear when not. Do you hear the click at the carbs when you open the throttle then let go? The click is the idle stop screw contacting the throttle stop of the carbs. No click= bad(frayed cable) or needing a good lubing or adjusting to proper specs. Note: the Venture Cruise makes the lower cables are difficult to lube.With the Cruise design- There are 4 cables, 2 upper and 2 lower . The lower cables do fray. Mine went...I caught mine when only half the strands were there. Also there is both an upper and lower adjustment.
  7. jasonm.
    the main reason for the mod. is rather simple when comparing intake and exhaust tuning. Maybe you are aware that inline 4 cyl. bikes exhaust works best when 1 is connected to 4 and likewise 2 connected to 3 prior to dumping to the collector or muffler. This is due to the firing order. Allows even pulses. Now the same is also true for the intake. But with a V-4 the benefits vary. So lookng at the manual(there are misprints). You want 1 to 2 and 3 to 4. I do not know of anyone doing as Condor suggests. - I will say it will makes less difference on the bikes w/YICS. - Also I had a revelation tonight. My increased performance may be simply due to my replacement BOOST Sensor. Now the lesser mileage could be a couple of things I am still investigating. Like lack of full advance , remember used-new boost snsr. -And my lasted pain is my water pump seal. I replaced it using the old impeller,that was a Big mistake...So I replaced the seals again using a new impeller and used my Yamaha W-P special tools and I followed the book(my memory sucks) "to a T" as always. All good but on another thread I mentioned the knocking noise from the pump area. To figure out the noise, I drained the coolant,I took off the impeller cover. Started the engine and ran for a total of 20 seconds...maybe. Then not being satisfied I removed the water pump to inspect things. Not wanting to damage the oil or mech. seals I did not remove the impeller. Now tonight's ride, When hot I had a couple drops of coolant come out. Now the seal may be failed due to my short 20 seconds. Smart me> Last seal change I had installed a clear hose that fits perfectly in the weep hole using a bit of hi-temp RTV. I can see anything that comes out through this hose. I saw coolant and enough got to the exhaust pipe where the hose is just an inch away which I could smell for a split second. Which is a good warning. The hose also protects the cases and bike in general from getting messy from a bad W-P seal. My original seal lasted 65k. So you see how this is pissing me off. I am such a putz sometimes. I think the dealer loves to see me. My baby always has something wrong. Sorry for the long windedness...
  8. jasonm.
    I have been doing hiway to put miles on and check the spark plugs' color. When I did go back roads...I got 41 the 1st time on the back roads 60mph avg. w/my MOD connected. Yes, I did twist it once or twice to pass the people who are afraid of the wind. I have had this bike since '89. It was never like this(super powerful, instant responsive and hard to hit 40mpg)...I am sure. Did I have a carb issue form the 1st day I owned it? If so, How did I get 93hp out of it. Wish there was another 1st gen. Venture rider close by. Who's had his as long as me. I may have been a bit over stating the throttle before. It's more like 1/4 throttle.
  9. jasonm.
    put 230 miles on the new spark plugs. Only #3 shows any sign of color compared to the others that are staying white as snow. Mileage...well it's nothing to rave about. Lucky if I see 36 on the hiway. I can't help but twist the throttle to WFO. Power corrupts. Also, I removed MY Jason MOD to confirm the how the plugs are "burning". Maybe w/ the MOD it will go up 2 mpg. I invented it and have had it on for almost 20 years. Now with it off...maybe it's suspect of my lesser mpgs than I remember. I may be able to dyno the bike tomorrow. If it passes my expectations. I will not do a damn thing more. Last time it had 93.2 hp. The way it runs now(rocket like- roll ons) and also sucking more fuel than I remember it should , may mean something. Oh did I mention, at far less than 1/2 throttle it's cruising @100+...?
  10. jasonm.
    FYI for everyone. A stator is a single long piece of wire wrapped around "cores". The 3 wires represent the the even places along this single wire and cores where the AC electricity is syphoned off. You can do the ground test to any stator, even when not installed. JUST connect a lead from the ohm meter to the center where it bolts to the case cover. Then check to the whites. Just make sure there is no laquer coating on it. And set the meter to the highest setting. That voltage check you mention does not always show what you need to know. As different stators put out different levels of voltage at different frequencies(Hertz). Some VOMs are designed for 60Hz applications like your household electrical. The output of these stators is NOT 60Hz. Do as Neil says and I also have also seen stators put out 30 to 60 volts at the white wires on bikes. Never anything as low as you say. Which makes me wonder how you are getting such low #'s. But I have never done that test on my Venture. YOU MUST do all tests(including Neil's) at the stator wires w/o the regulator or stator wires connected to ANYTHING! Sounds like something is still connceted or you don't have the meter set to "AC volts". The OHM TEST IS THE BEST because it works on all "internal stator" designs.
  11. jasonm.
    ALso to test the stator, there is a ground test. Meaning check the white wire(s) using the ohm meter. THere should be an absolute open, infinite resistance from any of the 3 whites to frame ground. Always do this ohm(resistance) test on the HIGHEST setting of the meter. MAKE SURE the connector is disconnected from the plug to the regulator. As a large number of stators get shorted to ground. Thus your voltage is going to ground and not the regulator. I have never done the voltage check George says to do. But I have been told the voltage can be as high as 50 volts on some bikes. Personaly as stated before...do the simplest thing 1st. From what you described, I believe your charging system is fine .
  12. jasonm.
    " 5th gear and wind resistence are the enemy..... " I am surprised you say this. 5th gear should always give best fuel economy...as long as there is not a big head wind. Also, seeing the old magazines saying mpg average in the mid-forties makes me think...I only got mid forties as a high many years ago. New gas is crap. I would think more here would get better than 40mpg consistantly. Maybe all of us have had the low speed screws set for power and not the EPA settings from the factory and the mileage suffers a bit. But more than 10% difference from the tests in my mags.(Road Rider & Rider) would be odd. Also having calibrated my fuel sender I know within a quart of what's left in the tank. On my bike, going a bit over 160 miles before the fuel light comes on and stays on usually means about 40mpg .
  13. jasonm.
    OK there are 2 simple solutions to your problem. I had one of these myself. 1st open the trunk. There is a light inside. . DISCONNECT the wires at the switch on the left. 2nd the battery sensor diode in the instrument panel can go bad and draw power even with the bike off. To test this theory disconnect the sensor wire every time you are not riding the bike that day. OR instead of the above YOU CAN DO THIS ELECTRICAL TEST> get a digital electical VOMeter. Set it for milliamps and connect the leads to meter properly. They are marked on the meter. THEN disconnect the battery's negative lead. NOW connect the leads of the meter in series between the negative side of the battery and the large ground wire you just disconnected. You should only show a draw of less than 2 milliamps...this is to keep you radio and clock working. NOTE: the polarity of the connection you make w/leads may need to be reversed to get a correct reading...simple. If you have more than 2 milliamps draw. Start disconnecting things. Start w/ the ones stated above. If your diode is bad. You'll have to put in a relay to enable(ign. on) and disable(ign. off) the battery sensor. Lastly I believe your charging system is fine. Mine also runs 13.6 to 14.2v most of the time. Has been like this since day one and 70k miles. AND check the charging at various rpms. Idle might be 13.6v then 1500rpm may be 14.2v then @ 3000 may be 13.9v. This is not an issue.
  14. jasonm.
    The unleaded fuel today definetly delays the plugs changing color. I did put new plugs in 125 miles ago. Cannot read any color yet. I will try to get 400 miles on them by Wednesday and read them. As stated before I leaned the low speed screws a bit(1/4 turn). And now it needs a bit of choke on the 1st start of the day. I am being prudent to hardly use the choke when starting first of the day. As I know this does leave a quick carbon coat on the plugs. Also I found my old magazines from the late 80's when they tested the Ventures. The '89 they got an avg. of 47mpg and the '86 got 45mpg. Now with today's ethanol gas, I subtrack 5% from those numbers and that's what I would expect. So 42 average I would think is highly possible...but not probable. My memory has been coming back. AND I do remember last time on the Venture to Americade(~140 miles) the reserve light started just before I got to Lake George. So that's about 35mpg. Sh*t...there' likely nothing wrong with my bike. I know coming home I got higher mpg as the elevation drop helped... I live @800'.I think L.G. is about 1500' or so. From memoryI am sure that I got 43mpg out of the bike easily. And all I had to do was keep it in 5th as much as possible on the back roads and not to go over 3200rpm. Which I came close to doing on the last tank. If you have not guessed...I am a worry wart/perfectionist. ALSO- George, Have you gone to Americade?
  15. jasonm.
    I have been in electronics for 30 years. The stator test I mention when done properly, does not lie. If you have not done it. You are likely wasting your time until you do. The failure to ground test means any resistance that is measurable means it fails. My brother's G-W stator failed. I connected the ohm meter and waited 10 seconds and slowly saw the resistance drop to 200k to 100k to 50 k and so forth. Stator replaced...all fixed for him. This showed up quicker w/ a warm engine. As the semi-short became more obvious. This is basic stuff to me. Again, tests when done properly and using the right tools do not lie. Also your '84 should have the cooling kit. Look at the flywheel bolt. Should have a pin hole in the middle. I do not know exactly when the kit was installed from the factory.
  16. jasonm.
    obviously, if the existing fluid looks like cola...it's going to need more than just a bleeding. If you do replace the slave cylinder...then consider replacing the hydra-line with SS teflon. You'll need approx. a 64" piece and a straight banjo for the slave and a 35 degree for the master.
  17. jasonm.
    what brand of headsets do you have? the plugs at the helmet are different Yamaha vs. J&M(Sierra). FYI - modified computer mouse extrension wire works. But you need the schematic. That's what I use.
  18. jasonm.
    Dano- on a 1300 ,there is a "spring / ball" that falls into the notch, up or down. 1200's I do not remember.
  19. jasonm.
    I may have missed it. I did NOT see anyone state that all stator tests MUST be done w/o the white wires connected to the regulator. He said they were soldered. Did you cut them and do the tests? Ohm tests white to white should be less than .5 ohms and white to ground MUST be an OPEN= infinite resistance. The above is the 1st trouble shooting step to any , "failure to charge problem". If the stator passes these tests...it's likely the Regulator.
  20. jasonm.
    I think it could be a slide diaphragm assy. There are 2 tests for this. Test#1- take the bike for a ride...it should pull quickly to redline at full throttle in 2 and 3rd gear. ANY studders in acceleration= bad slide assy. Test#2, get the bike warmed up. Then remove air box cover and air filter , gently turn throttle to confirm all 4 slide want to move. NOTE: the bike won't run smooth as the slides attempt to move.
  21. jasonm.
    Typically but not always...excess oil in airbox is due to worn valve guides or piston rings or other items near the combustion chamber allowing the pressures to escape that are meant to be harnessed during combustion. I have done may high speed rides since getting my '87 on the road and looked in the airbox...no puddles or oil on my K&N.
  22. jasonm.
    Being a perfectionist-I hate me sometimes. Had I changed the o-rings(which looked okay) from the get go, I would assume all is normal with todays gasolines. Also, sometimes I swear I smell it running rich sometimes when come to a stop. Maybe I am dreaming? Doing an MPG test on flat roads is not possible...Out here there are no flat roads. I live in a rather hilly area. Some that make ski jumps in Utah slopes down right timid. My latest test was solo and doing all back roads 45-70mph...got 39.5mpg I may have jumped the gun by ordering parts and it's too late to stop the order. Just have to weigh the time factor of doing the carbs' " needle jet o-rings" change now vs. waiting till after Americade or not do them at all and have a pile of $$ parts sitting around.:puzzled:The other thing is I had forgotten to repeat,that my "original boost sensor was bad"-vacuum leak. I replaced the bad boost sensor just prior getting my beast back on the road this year(she was apart for 2 yrs). The bike does pull harder than ever before from all RPMs. I have owned this bike since '89. Even after 2 years being off it , I remember most of the oddities. Such as when and when not to gas it hard and when it will pull crisp and smooth. NOW-The WOW factor is everywhere. Now there is ..."it's hang on time to go". Maybe because the vacuum leak is gone. There is absolutely no delay from twist to acceleration from any engine speed above 1500 in any gear. The slightest twist makes a quick and noticeable change in speed instantly... w/ or w/o the Jason MOD... Almost EFI like. Must sound like I am worrying about something good. And a new question: would a good boost sensor make the MPGs go up or down? I would suspect "up".
  23. jasonm.
    The smoke could simply be either too much oil in it. OR THE O-RING located in the center below the carbs. Some others can give a better explanation in regards to the o-ring than I.
  24. jasonm.
    2 things. 1st- I should have included in my poll. "can you start the bike w/o choke and ride away within 3 mins. w/o bike showing any hesitations?" I can now but never could before. Always needed a good warm up. Now after putting in new plugs and checking after 100+ miles at speeds of 45-65 in 5th and engine speeds basically 2500- 3300. The plugs look clean. BUT damn I can't get over 40mpg out of it when driving like granny on the back roads. I used to always get 40+ on the back roads w/38-40 at hiway speeds 70-75. So now I'll tear into the carbs and replace them o-rings. Oh joy...I should follow my own advice. "When in doubt swap it out"
  25. jasonm.
    another reason why I hate taking my vehicles to anyone for service...they don't listen!
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