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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    the spacer provided is rather long. If I remember correctly. I cut mine down to ~1 inch. No air needed. ALSO, only do ONE fork at a time beginning to end. Otherwise the front will collapse...dangerous
  2. jasonm.
    I have heard knocking noises on one Venture that the choke linkage(left-right) had popped off and only running on choke on th eleft bank when cold. What a racket. Noise disappeared once warmed up. Easy fix on that one with a "c-clip". Also a clogged carb can give rattles due to running on a dead cylinder.
  3. jasonm.
    I run Berryman's carb cleaner because the main ingredient is acetone which is another word for paint/varnish remover. ANd not made to remove heavy carbon. That's what the crud in you carbs is...petroleum varnish.
  4. jasonm.
    that is a good link. Makes me feel better looking at my plugs. Also notice the center electrode..starting to get white deposits in the "best" catagory. I don't know how white you can go...? My experience...you want some color on there...as long as it's not dark. Also the new unleaded fuels makes it very difficult to read the plugs. Takes many more miles to really see anything unless you are running WAY rich.
  5. jasonm.
    Condor, correction to you....the main pump bearing is in oil. So you are only lubricating the mechanical water seal w/coolant/antifreeze. I use Peak Lifetime Global which is non-phosphate and non-silicate. Premix is $9 at walmart and $14 non- premix. Unlike anything else the Color is GOLD/yellow. I do not recommend keeping the GM orange stuff in your engine longer than 5 years. Otherwise sludge results. Many postings on the web concerning this. ALso the silicates have been reduced a lot in the past few years. And ask yourself did they have non-silicate, non phosphate antifreeze/coolant 25 years ago? Hell no! ANd the pump parts are idential for 25 years. So anything will work just fiine as long as you flush it 1st.
  6. jasonm.
    In the 1300....most all the dogs are undercut. But they can get rounded off. If the dogs don't get in deep enough. There is a potential for "popping" out. I always shift very deliberate and hold the lever up even after releasing the clutch. I have never had it pop out once,even at the drags...knock on wood 72k. But if you have a very repeatable issue, the fork could be bent or very worn. But these are very hard bits to wear out. Or you have a 1200 engine w/1300 case covers on it...
  7. jasonm.
    always connect the SWR meter right at the CB....followed by the splitter then antenna. With the splitter alone I could getit down only to 2:1. W/o splitter could get to 1.5:1. I decided to just add a CB ant. on the other side. Removed the center coil from the stock ant and the results are better CB (1.2:1 swr)and better AM-FM performance. Do NOT connect 2 identical antennas(center loaded) on each side of the bike(1 CB, 1 AM/FM). You will never get your SWR to be good and end up frying your CB. It's called simply ...coupling effect.
  8. jasonm.
    what $45 / hour. Hell they get $75+/hr. by me. They would charge $500 minimum on a 1st gen. Venture to do such a job where I am. You wonder why they are going out of business by me? I do all my own work. It may take me 2 tries to get it perfect. I buy whatever special tool I may need for the job. May only use that tool once. But I always come out saving $$$. And at least I did not get raped.
  9. jasonm.
    YOU MUST USE THE GASKET! The clearances are so tight in these engines. There is only a few thousandths between the spinning gears of the starter drive and case. Once the gasket is removed=no clearance. You are grinding the gears into the engine and case cover. TRUST ME ON THIS, get a new gasket. Also your leak originally is likely the damn grommets that seal the ignition & stator wires. Wires are braded and act like wicks to the oil. The rubber gets old and does not seal as well. Old Yamahas are notorious for this.
  10. jasonm.
    are you sure it's the hose? usually it's the copper washers leaking. They can be, but should not be reused if spare NEW washers are available. Also you need to torque the slave bolt to ~18ft/lbs. I went SS on mine and NEW washers.
  11. jasonm.
    the OEM lever should be available...I think other Yamahas still use it today. I always carry spare levers in case of a tip over.
  12. jasonm.
    FYI, you need waterproof speakers. polypropelene...I think is the material that is used. That's what the OEMs are. I think Polk makes very good poly speakers...4". rather expensive
  13. jasonm.
    I bought mine w/4k on it 20 years ago. It squeeked from the beginning. I quickly did the grease fitting update. FYI 1990 -'93 have the fittings from the factory
  14. jasonm.
    I replaced my slide diaphragm assemblies with OEMs some 6 years ago because 2 originals had holes. Yes, top end improved and the acceleration was to spec. Smooth at all RPMs above 2500 when whacked open. Just recently I replaced the small orings on the needle jet shafts and cleaned the jet blocks. The bike is totally changed. Only needs choke to start well below 60F. Otherwise turn the key when cold and push the button results in instant 700rpm. Will pull cleanly in 5th from 2000 or less.Runs EFI like. All 4 low speed screws set to 2.5 ccw per my digital tach confirmed this is best for slightly rich. 2.25ccw was peak. Right now I am trying non-resistor DP8EA-9 plugs. Non-resistor plugs did not affect the AM-FM. But I do hear a slight hum on the CB when I put my ear to the speaker. But the hum could have always been there. I have the stock 10k caps. I may go to iridiums.
  15. jasonm.
    sorry, I sold my spare to a guy in England. The baffle(rattle plate) removed. I hope I don't regret it in the future. Look on Ebay. I saw one there a month ago.
  16. jasonm.
    Here' the best upgrade to a 1200.Get rid of the unified brakes,get a a 5/8"(16.5mm) bore front master.A late model Virago 750 or 1100 master fits fine. Junk the old rubber lines...go to SS. You'll be glad you did. Also you don't need the hydraulic anti-dive if you have Progessive springs.
  17. jasonm.
    I don't look at my instruments (other than the tach)when riding hard. Traffic and road hazards are more important. Vmax owners state the same thing. Hard acceleration on oil not fully up to temperature causes the oil to slosh back away enough the sensor may say, "not enough". But the oil pump is in the back where the oil is sloshed to. So there is nothing to worry about. Also you can check the wire from the sensor. It makes one connection by your left thigh as you stand. I think it's black w/red stripe.
  18. jasonm.
    I don't know where some got their facts. Fact is the Voyager 1200 is hardly more than 10# lighter. I have the test magazine from 1990 to prove that. Second I had a Voyager 1200. It's junk to me. Lousey cornering clearance, bike shimmy'd solo when ever you got it going somwhat spirited around corners. Yes the steer bearings were checked. Need the weight of the passanger to keep it stable. The frame design did not have the support bars the Venture has front to rear. A design requirement for rubber mounted engines that both bikes have . At Least Yamaha was thinking. My Voyager snapped a starter chain. A common problem for them. Requiring the cases to be split and crankshaft removed. Kawi would not warranty it even just 30 days past the 2 year warranty. I have a long list of other issues all before 20k miles on it. I would not take another Kawi...even if given to me for free. They, as a company-SUCK ...actually I would take a free one , then sell it. Venture other than the L.E.D. radio display, is a totally better thought out bike.
  19. jasonm.
    for minor pinhole leaks. A good coat of acid core solder on the holes followed by POR15 sealer can save a tank. I know. Done it to 2 other bikes.
  20. jasonm.
    Gearhead...your bike needs a tune up. I went across deserts of CO. and Utah pulling a trailer no mods to the engine. Mine never ran or runs that hot at hi-way speeds. Went across NE. at 85mph. Still cool runner at a air temp of 90. I would also recommend you remove the thermostat and turn the screw in the middle clockwise a couple turns or till flush. This lowers the opening temp. to as low as 165. I did this to mine about 8 years ago.
  21. jasonm.
    I have either a rich issue from the carb rebuild. Or had a bad plug. I changed the plug...problem gone. The non-resistor will be a bit less prone to fouling. I have used non-resistors in other bikes with no noise in CB or Stereo. I work in electronics. I do know that having 2 resistors in line, spark plug and cap DOES reduce efficiency.While one resistor(cap only) does not. Some guys use 5k NGK caps with the stock resistor plugs(also 5k)= 10k of the cap alone. I'll let you know how the non-resistors work. I did read the plugs. No obvious rich issue(soot) I could see after 400+ miles on them. Oh...and I will be carrying spare plugs on my trip.
  22. jasonm.
    HAving a bad radiator cap can also make it run hot. You MUST have pressure in the system for proper cooling. A bad cap will release pressure too early. I believe a generic cap- Stant 227 will fit. Weep hole- Look up under the engine guard. The weep hole is @6 o'clock. Aiming slightly to the rear. All engines have or should have some sort of weep hole. Russ, you have a 1300. Then you won't have issues with the impeller failing(breaking). But If the seal does leak. ALL items I listed earlier should be replaced.
  23. jasonm.
    don't even try to have the idle too low. You'll have very low oil pressure on a hot day. That is why the idle is suppose to be 1000 +/- 50. I think you may have a stuck choke plunger. Maybe slightly open. Look carefully.
  24. jasonm.
    there is no reason to replace the whole pump. The pump is rebuildable. And only rebuild it when you see or smell coolant coming out the weep hole on the bottom of the pump. ONLY the seals , bearing , orings, impeller and gasket would be needed. $80 in parts. ALso you MUST check the coolant at the reservoir in the fairing. Should be close to half full when cold. And level will rise when hot. Mine runs to 1/4" below red if I let it then the fan kicks in. But I have a manual fan switch. Which ends worrying about over heating. I suggest you only do the rebuild w/manual in hand. Lastly the mechanical seal and other part prices vary. One stealer wanted $21 for the mechanical seal. I got it for $14 from the dealer I usually go to.
  25. jasonm.
    The Advance Auto that I bought the NGKs($2ea) from offered me the Autolites($3 pair) or a swap for the bad one(s). They claimed the Autolites were non-resister. Which sounded like what I wanted. Hoping to avoid a repeat of the above in the future. Got them home and checked them. They had 4.5k ohm each. Same as the NGK. Thus not what I really wanted after this pain. You don't need resistor plugs with the stock(10k) caps. On another thread I expressed my hate for NGK caps. As I have had them fail. Showing the same symptoms as the bad plug problem. But the failure I had was w/non-resistor plugs. Which always makes it easier to find the cause of a misfire. TO confirm it was the spark plug(s). I replaced the plug with an old one and let the bike idle for 15+ minutes. Keeping the temp. at 3 o'clock on the dash using a fan. No skip or misfire. Idled @ a solid 1000. I remember someone else saying they had a bad plug before. Wonder if he had the same symptoms? Just wish I could remember who it was? Now I am getting shakey about taking the Venture to Americade...what next. What did I miss? Still think the carbs have to come out....see my other thread of carb concerns...
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