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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    My bench can be stood up on the small end. My garage has a 10' ceiling. The bench is 8' long. It only uses up slightly less than 4 square feet of floor space. And lean it against the wall. Guess I'll need to send a pic on that also... So if your ceiling is a bit over 8' high... great.Or modify my plans. IMHO-The first gens. really don't do well on those jack up at the frame devices. You need adaptors and always afraid of things tipping the "wrong way".
  2. jasonm.
    I am not sure what you mean about nipples-recessed in the top. There is the plastic heat shield. And chromeed exhaust shield on the rear head pipes. Those are likely the bolt holes to hold the chrome heat shield on the head pipes. They do crack and shield fall off. BUT should not be thrown away. You can braze washers on and it's good as new. The rear head pipes have bolts to connect and exhaust analyzer. Cannister? Do you have a california bike? Have I cleared this up?
  3. jasonm.
    Well, an amber LED behind a red lens makes orange...fine by me. As long as it fits the 158 socket...yes?
  4. jasonm.
    Also when turning the rear wheel by hand....lots of resistance compared to my other shafty Yamaha. Venture only rotates another 1/4 to 1/2 turn after I let go. There is just a little brake drag and removing the caliper helps slightly. Wonder if they are all like this...?
  5. jasonm.
    yes, I had a 1200 and the 1300 is a bit more involved to do the rear tire. And as I said before, the rear lower light bar is not the same as the non-light bar. SO that prompted me as well. The rear brakes are no problem. Also the 4x4s and 4x6 I used are pressure treated. The aluminum ramp ends for 2x12 are only rated for 700#ea. ramp.So, I made a special ramp for the bike. And a special support holding a solid square sided rod that does not bend all fastened to the bench.And removable . You could used 2- 2x8 held(screwed) together with cross supports and 2x8 aluminum ends. That way your ramp would be almost 16" wide and have the support and handle the weight.
  6. jasonm.
    that's the fitting that the 1200 has. They copied the 1100 gold wing design. BIG mistake with 50% more hp. Redesign on the 1300 solved many issues. USE Moly grease if you must. YES, a whole tube from a grease gun, may get a bit in there... Otherwise disassemble at every tire change and grease per what the manual says.
  7. jasonm.
    There is a bolt at 6 o'clock on that cover by the left foot peg. It should have a copper washer. 1st drain that oil thru that bolt(about 10oz.). Thus you do not need to drain the whole engine for the small cover by your left foot peg. Just have plenty of rags handy when you pull that cover. ALSO that bolt at 6 o'clock MUST have the copper washer. If it does not...that could be you cure right there.
  8. jasonm.
    I hope my hand written stuff shows properly. Well, I did not give a list of items needed to build this. I am sure you can extrapolate what you need. Let's see just for the bench, not including the wings you need 4- 2x6x8', 2- 2x8x8', 4x4 total 12'.12- 1/2" x 8" bolts and 8 nuts and 24 washers for "H" frames . At least 6- 1/2" x 6" bolts , 6 nuts and 12 washers for the rear removable section.. And a whole lot of #14 x 3" screws.
  9. jasonm.
    because I pulled a trailer sometimes, I had installed an '83 clutch assy. w/6 heavy springs like the Barnett kit, only cheaper $$, at 20k . But it still slipped at 58k under full throttle in 3rd-5th gears.I changed plates @60k..all good. Doing the dual diaphragm spring on a 1300 makes it WAY stiff. Mine is a good compromise. ALso NEVER fill your clutch resevoir. You need room for fluid expansion.
  10. jasonm.
    I took all the pics just prior to getting the bike down. So, I feel like an ass for not taking pics before I got the work done w/rear wheel off. It may be a while before I can show how it is w/o the rear part in place. Simply- the rear "H" frame has 1/2" x 6" bolts going thru the sides seen in 2nd pic. These are bolts so removal and reinstallation is simple. The top boards(2x8s) for the wheels are screwed down w/ 3" #14's. Lastly at the cut in back of the center stand , a 6x4 is notched into the side under the 2x8s to take ANY down force while driving onto the bench. This 6x4 x ~26" is also removable. There are absolutely no lag screws in this. It's main "H" frame supports are 1/2" bolts and 4x4s. . If you like , I think I can draw plans, Scan them and post them. _____ ____ H--- H -- H
  11. jasonm.
    I always wanted a lift bench. But really could not justify the cost of those heavy steel buggers. Especially when I am only on my knees or back for oil changes. The big thing is the rear tire. Especially for those with the 1300 lower light bar. FAct is you need the rear wheel about 12" above ground to change the rear tire like this. Actually this originally started out ~ 24" high w/o the outriggers. Took me and someone with a strong back to steady it. Yes, I drove it up. But standing next to it. Then I cut it down to 17". Still too high. Now the bike is 12" off the ground. I think it's about right. GO to Americade and see what they use to do the rear tire changes. Now I just remove the rear section of the bench(6 bolts)& 4 bolts for the center ramp support. You can see some bolts in the 2nd pic. Remove the mufflers, brake caliper and axle.
  12. jasonm.
    I have motorcycle magazines going back 30 years. And one did multiple tests of oils using an independent lab. Both synth and dino. The test was ~15 years ago. Tests were done on the same model of jap-bike.The tests showed ALL 20w50 dino oil was sheared to a 20w30 @1500 miles. As where the synth. oils were sheared down no worse than a 20w40 @1500 miles. So you guys feeling good about going to 2000+ on your dead dinosaur oil changes should reconsider doing it a bit sooner on the Venture. And a 10w40 should only be used in a Venture if you drive less than 10 miles at a clip or the temp does not get above 40F. I have always used synthehics. Most make shifting better and help engine life. PLUS I am not using dead dinos they got from a tanker.
  13. jasonm.
    http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx Yamaha parts site...should help
  14. jasonm.
    Your already there with the cover off. I would change the o-ring on the gear indicator sender. The o-ring should be high quality "orange" silicone from the factory. Usually it's a loose screw on that. Also many CRACK the cover when reinstalling, me included. You need a long phillips and dab grease for this. The grease will allow you to get this seated. And DON'T tighten the 2 screw unless you are absolutely sure the holes are "dead on". Flash light and perfect vision 20/20 or better needed. Next- The shift seal can be a pain. I have had luck using a sheetrock screw or 2 carefully put into the seal and PULL carefully. Lastly the wire gromments. ALL 80's Yamahas have this issue to some degree. Whatever you do. Clean everything with a cleaner that will not hurt paint or rubber. If it's water base like Simple Green...let it dry. Then spray foot powder on the suspected area. The powder turns dark when it gets wet. FYI all seals and orings are relatively easy when compared to other bike out there, to work on, with the possible exception of the clutch rod seal. Let us know if it's gear or motor oil. The shaft gear seal is actually simple once the rear wheel is off. But I doubt that's the problem. Remember 99% chance it's a simple fix.
  15. jasonm.
    What do you do with wood? I did this some 20 years ago and have been making some MODS. Basically,three 4x4 "H" frames,thru bolted(not lagged). Thus it can be tightened and 2x8's for the main bench, 2x6 for sides and other bits. The rear "H" frame and rear most 3' of bench slides out as one piece after removing some 6 bolts. Which allows me to remove the rear wheel quickly. I should have taken a pic of that also. One man easy to ride up w/the outriggers I just made using shelf brackets. Super strong-Total weight w/o the ramps ~150#. Can be stood on end to take up less space. As you see I have the center stand on a "loose" piece of 2x10...which is not needed. If anyone wants closer pics just say so. I set the camera to PC setting. Hope it shows enough detail. I am not selling anything. Just here to give you ideas.
  16. jasonm.
    So if all splines(in and out) are also the same on the FJR....then that could also work in a pinch. Also when turning the rear wheel by hand....lots of resistance compared to my other shafty ?
  17. jasonm.
    Wow, that's $1 per gasket cheaper than I paid($7.25). Wonder if all their prices are that good.
  18. jasonm.
    I have light bars also. Rarely turn them on . WHERE can I find these replacement LED bulbs that fit the #158 socket?
  19. jasonm.
    I have been quite busy. I did not see the latest post till now. Good idea. But I now have put all back together with new 75w140 Spectro GL5 100% synthetic gear lube(same I always have used). And the noise..."odd creek" when rotating by hand is gone. Even after a 100 mile ride, no odd noise when rotating by hand. I did do what you suggested w/everything together and wheel installed. I get no odd noise on the centerstand with the drive shaft driving the wheel ....until> When I "unload"(let off throttle and pull in the clutch) and let it coast down, results in a clear whine/whurr noise when the wheel is traveling in the 35+mph range. And the wheel slows quickly. Some whurr is normal to my memory. This is clearly a bit louder than I think normal in the 20 years I have owned this. Not scarey, but clearly there. When I'm turning the rear wheel by hand in the "forward" direction gives a clear sound of the pinion gear engauging the ring gear. And come to think of it. This is likely the same as the coast down noise but slower because it's being turned slowly by hand...loading the opposite side of the ring gear's teeth then when the engine applies power to the wheel. Turning the wheel in reverse...quiet as can be. Which is exactly the faces of the gears that mate when power is applied. This explains the quiet when power on and whurr during power down. The manual shows a special tool to check ring/pinion play. Which simply looks like a hose clamp on a flat rod. I just did not know the length of this rod. And was not about to guess. BUT I do suspect my play is somewhere near recommended max. I will check in another 1k or so the drain plug for specks or more micro dust . Other than this possible issue, the bike is perfect. Lastly, does anyone know the rear end ratio of the FJR1200? I know the rear case is the same as ours. And could work if the center spline hub is the same design as ours.
  20. jasonm.
    My u-joint I installed was almost new. I actually replaced the 2 bevel gears in the engine when I changed out the bad tranny bearing and damper unit. The output gear and damper came with the u-joint on it. The whole set was from a near "0" mileage Vmax someone was setting up for the drags. The whole thing looked like new and was better shape than my original u-joint that had a "stiff spot". I will be pissed off if it's the u-joint. My stethoscope says to my ear, it's in the rear end somewhere because the sound is NOT heard thru the -scope at the output drive area. I have removed the rear wheel and checked the wheel bearings. Wheel bearings are turning smooth and fine. I removed the rear end and drained the oil. I don't remember the last time I changed the rear oil? The drain plug came out, magnet covered 2-3mm thick in metal powder. I mean powder. So fine(like baby powder) you could not feel it. But clearly built up on the magnet. I am putting it all together now and will run it 1-2k miles and drain again to check magnet. Maybe the noise will be gone when put it together, but doubt it. I think I may need one rear end or tear my original apart. Skydoc please email w/your prices. jsmthefix@optimum.net Also, Jeff, how could I tell if that pinion is broken...it's way down under the drive shaft? Wouldn't it be very wobbly and seperate if broken? I did remove the whole rear and shaft assy. Looked good from the outside. I grease ALL splines at every rear tire change. Lastly, the noise I 1st described but did not give this info, is there as the wheel ends it's rotation. Thanks
  21. jasonm.
    Yes, my front rotors went below spec. many years ago. I have the EBC solid rotors(like OEM) from years ago...not the pro-lite floaters of today. I have nothing good to say about the ones I have. I will simply say the EBC HH pads don't like the EBC rotors I have at low speeds strange harmonic at 15mph causing sudden lock up under moderate braking. Rotors checked to be dead nuts true. Funny thing- SBS HH pads works fine...better. No low speed lock up.The rotors I have- holes for cooling, the hole spacing is very limited. More for looks than performance. Maybe the Prolites are better?
  22. jasonm.
    I have pulled my mufflers of at least 7 times for various reasons. Only once did I change the exhaust sleeves in the mufflers at time 3, and never changed them in the collector which I remove 3 times. The old copper/white ones are quite good. After time #3 I changed the muffler clamps, I use a special H-D clamps(old sportster "head pipe" I think). It simply is a clamp you see on sport bikes for their aftermarket mufflers. I think mine is ~ 1.5" size. This circular clamp puts very even pressure on the sleeve. I am sure you can find them at D-K web site . In fact I have to pull the mufflers again to check my rear wheel bearings.
  23. jasonm.
    I hear the rotor lightly touch...the typical swoosh against the pads. Caliper dismounted...odd sound still there.
  24. jasonm.
    MY '87 has a mild noise noticed when checking air in the read tire. 1st I have owned this for 20 years. This noise is new and I do hear the normal ring and pinion noise typical for 70k when spinning by hand. I have Spectro SPL 75w140 ($15/QT) in it, GREAT GEAR OIL. Along w/ the ring & pinion I hear this new noise when I spin the tire by hand, I hear a "creek" similar to an old door on your house closing or opening. Spin it fast...not noticable. Thus it cannot be heard while driving. The sound is very mild(not loud) but ODD. Any thoughts on maybe this is a wheel bearing or not. Yes, It makes this noise in both directions of rotaion. One way a bit more noticable that the other. The wheel shows no side play. I also have a new u-joint in it and the noise is clearly from the rear wheel area. My mechanics stethoscope says so. And no vibes can be felt while spinning by hand. Any input is helpful.
  25. jasonm.
    Just before a trip. I had a similar blockage. But at the rubber area by the steering neck. Makes a sharp bend there. The hose collapsed internally. Got SS line and fittings. I took the clutch out and apart 3 times before I realized the problem due to the lack of clutch release and noise of the hydraulic fluid attempting to get past the blockage.
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