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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    The rear cover is the easiest. And if you can get the cover off. Then you may have to remove the cam cap. And will likely find this the easiest and safest thing to do. The cap has specific torque specs. SO dont' over torque its' bolts like the cam cover bolt. But to break the valve cover bolt is very odd. As they are into the aluminum cap. I HOPE the cap is not damaged. And to everyone, these are "STOP BOLTS". That's why they have the rubber bushings. They only go so far and STOP! Turning any more only strips threads or breaks bolts. I hope all goes well.
  2. jasonm.
    clean the original holder is not a problem. I know the brushes I put in 10 years ago work great from D-K. Also the originals were barely more than 1/2 warn. But there was a lot of brush dust that needed cleaning out. You should also clean/"address" the armature area w/600 grit or finer paper. See a service manual.
  3. jasonm.
    I had binding on mine...I just slid the whole throttle assy towards the right just a millimter or 2, because the inside of the RUBBER grip was touching the handlebar. ALSO do you have non OEM bar ends on? that can also cause a friction issue.
  4. jasonm.
    Maybe I missed it. But what engine is this clutch assembly from? possibly a 2nd gen machine?
  5. jasonm.
    After having my clutch cover off more than once and basket out for other issues. The most recent this spring. I can say. That much play is NOT normal. Mine at 70+k has next to no play. The play often results from using a 10w40 instead of a 20/50 or 15/50 oil and long periods of idling when under very hot conditions.
  6. jasonm.
    I replaced all those rubber plugs in the jet block. UGH! I said...$5 each. But You know when done, you can go another 20 years. About half of my originals were not perfect when removed. Also replace the little oring around the "brass tube" the needle slides in. This is a critical o-ring which should be replaced. Also $5 ea. for a 1mm o-ring. Jeeezzzz.
  7. jasonm.
    Just an FYI. The manual says to clean and use a sealer at the mating of the rear drive and swing arm. Otherwise water and other nasty stuff can find it's way in. Especially if you wash your bike or ride in a heavy rain. I use permatex ULTRA Grey or black.
  8. jasonm.
    so , assuming you know how to read schematics(like me). You are saying> "There are no switches(ignition) or relays that complete the connection of the R/R to the battery." And it's always connected. Realize ,I got 2 of these> and I just want all my "ducks in a row". So I can procede smoooothly. In the past I have found many odd electrical oddities that are not odd after you analize them. Also I did read in one magazne where they tested a bike with this R/R. Don't remember which model.They stated it was as you folks describe. It ramps up and down smoothly with voltage changes.
  9. jasonm.
    wheel bearings can be checked by having someone hold the steering to one side and you grab the wheel to feel any loose or "clicks" by applying pressue to the edge of the wheel...back and forth. Also you can check with a dial indicator the same way you check rotors(discs). Do it at the discs because the wheel are NOT machined perfect. they allow a lot of runout on the wheels as the manufacturing is not so critical on the outside edge of the rim. Only the inside is machined.
  10. jasonm.
    you mean you never use the front brake...? every time you brake hard in front..the front tire gets pressed into distortion of sorts. I have seen it myself on one of my other bikes without fairing.
  11. jasonm.
    I understand there is no sense wire needed here. I think I was not clear enouogh. WHAT I AM SAYING is. Maybe there is a master relay or connection that is completed when you turn the "NEW" bike on. Thus completing the connection...battery to R/R in the newer bikes. ANd may have just such a set up to prevent power draw when the bike is off.... that's all I mean. You think they are all wired the same. But maybe not like our old Ventures. Any one game for checking? or know how to...
  12. jasonm.
    Size is not everything. Did you check the weight rating? look on the sidewall. These Ventures need a high rating "load C" I believe. Somewhere around 800# front and 950# back. Usually sport "V" rated tires are not "high load" rated. I know my Avons are 6 ply tires,,,high load.
  13. jasonm.
    You have to understand all that I say....I have seen. We have people who have the brown wire connected to the battery at all times in regards to my other old Yamaha Vision. Doing this helps regulate the voltage slightly better. BUT They end up with a dead battery if it is already weak and not riddin much. I did the brown wire direct thing on my other Yamaha. And measured the current being sucked thru the brown wire alone was over .10A(100 milliamps)... which is not a lot. Which is a bit more than nothing and yet enough to kill your battery in 2 weeks. I use a relay for that brown wire to be a direct connect to the battery on my '83 Vision that only is active when the ignition is on. Also noticed a draw on the positive wire if the brown is connected direct. The exact amount I do not remember. MAybe it was the same 100 milliamps. Some memory details are fuzzy but there. Seriously disconnect the battery positive and put the ampmeter correctly connected(polarity) and see if there is a draw when off. You know how to do that...right? I would hope it will be as I stated in the previous post.
  14. jasonm.
    being in electronics for 30+ years. I don't understand why people are stating.we "should not connect to the original wires" using solder or connectors. I believe these go to the battery and appropriate circuits as OEM designed.Those paired black and reds equal a single 12awg wire. I do understand the brown wire not being needed. ALSO did anyone do a current draw check with the ignition off ? Reason I ask, the old R/R has the brown sense wire. IT was switched by your simple ignition switch at the handle bars. You ask why it was switched. REASON...the regulator would draw power even with the bike totally off. The sense wire ie. tells the R/R to work. My bike has always only had a 1 milliamp draw for the clock, etc. when off. I suggest someone do a test with a digi-amp meter and see if there is a draw of any more than a milliamp or 2 when off ?
  15. jasonm.
    1st Yamaha originally said to use 20w40. As you know way back 20 years ago there was no 20w40 at the auto-parts store. So this was a marketing ploy to get you to get the 20w40 from Yamaha. Using 20w50 may not be your problem. 1st- did you use 12.9 grade bolts w/red loctite to lock down the new clutch to the flywheel? 2nd- did you replace the roller springs and rollers? If you answer no to any or part of these questions. Then, You are using old parts w/new parts and that's the issue.
  16. jasonm.
    I have just rec'd mine. All looks good. Just need to find time to get'er done. thanks... Dano, Oh , one more thing...Some one said this R/R can handle 50 amps. Are we absolutely sure this new R/R will handle up to 50 amps? I know the Venture cannot supply that. But just asking in case I use it on something else.
  17. jasonm.
    Yes, I am speaking of #4. That is what I thought...almost flush with bolt. And ugly side in towards crank. Wow...thanks for the quick response. Hope I remember next time I am doing stuff.
  18. jasonm.
    For those of you who have done valve adjusts and timing checks . You know that the chrome cover on the engine's generator cover must be remove when manually turning the crankshaft. You also know there is a"special washer" that must be removed. This is part of the "stator cooling" assy.. NOW, which way does this go in. Or does it not matter? It is basically a washer w/ 2 sides(edges) slightly angled. And also the center is "pushed thru" as stamped from the factory. Which way should it sit? with the washer looking almost even w/the crank bolt or w/the washer set so the rough center faces out...and not flush w/bolt??? I was doing work on it today and forgot which way it goes. I am such a putz.
  19. jasonm.
    YES, on the 1300 many do double up the diaphragm springs...if they pull trailers. BUT it makes the lever pull extremely stiff. I Put 1st gen.1200 pressure plate and center basket like barnett but used my own springs. this was done way before barnett made the Vmax kit. ALSO be aware the clutch often slips because the reservoir is full> YOU want it half full to allow for expansion when the fluid gets warm. Mine slipped at low mileage right after bleeding it. MY FAULT>reservoir full. Clutches usually go to 50k+ before really needing replacement from slippage.
  20. jasonm.
    look in the manual and use a timing light to confirm the ignition advance is correct at the specs. vs. rpm. If it's the same it's good. Remember the vacuum sensor was to prevent advance being too fast under load....like pulling a trailer. To prevent "ping"/knock.
  21. jasonm.
    for what it's worth. A bad or hot stator does not cause leaks unless it warped the cases. But that is also very unlikely. The cases are vented thru the airbox. Believe it or not. The wires and gromments are 99% the cause of these leaks at the cover. Next time. If it ain't broke...don't fix it.
  22. jasonm.
    my rear rotor has 60k or so on it. Not loose. Rivets fine. But then , I have de-intergrated my brake the last 50k. SO the rear is not used as much. Yes, try EBC. Just make sure it is also a floater.
  23. jasonm.
    The "whine" on mine I believe is actually a harmonic of the valve train. Because it seems to be no matter what gear I choose it's @2800-3200 . I have had it for 20 years like this. WHen I decellerate a different whine comes from the rear end...loading the opposite sides of the ring/pinion gears.
  24. jasonm.
    My wheel bearings checked good...turn smooth as butter. When putting the tire back in place and putting the axle in place.I have always done as follows (1) rotate axle so itself turns w/o binding or resistance. You'll find that there is a "free spot" of no resistance. (2)slowly tighten axle nut and torque to 110 ft/lbs. Using a screwdriver on right hole to prevent axle from turning. (4)Then tighten right axle clamp. I always do the clamp last. Jrichard, I'm a bit confused. I do it all by "the book". I don't know how a loosening of the axle and spin of the wheel could do much? Have I been doing it wrong for 20+ years? I suspect not.I do understand if I had been tightening the pinch bolt too soon can cause alighment problems. I may try your suggestion tomorrow. Here's a better question for everyone. If you were to grab the rear wheel and give it a spin by hand...assuming minimal disc drag. How much rotation do you get after you let go?
  25. jasonm.
    remove 3 allen bolts holding left passenger floorboard assy. See> 2 phillips screws. USE A #3 phillips. Too many people bugger up screws on Jap- bikes not knowing 90% are #3 heads.
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