Jump to content

jasonm.

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    899

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    Randya made some good points. Shimming is required for proper BACKLASH ...measured at the U-Joint(use an OEM manual). Just a bit of play while assembling the cases can change the shim(s) you need. Which are located between the case and 3 bolts that hold the OUTPUT shaft w/u-joint. Also when you assemble the cases have HELP. The case halves need to be "squared up". A second pair of hands and tools rubber mallets and prayer is helpful. Also there is an internal shim by the BIG bearing that is critical for the middle gears to cantact in the middle of each tooth. the formula in the book can be confusing. So I used BLUE transfer die to confirm I had things proper.
  2. jasonm.
    jeeezzz I had my engine out for months. Wish I had known this starter mod. before...
  3. jasonm.
    the clutch packs in these last 40 to 60k before serious slipping under full power happens. Wrong oil or clutch fluid filled to the top WILL cause slippage. I diid the too much clutch fluid thing when I 1st got mine 20+ years ago. That was quickly resolved. Finally @63k a few years ago she needed plate(s) replacement.
  4. jasonm.
    The only worry is....Don't have them touch each other. Vibration will cause cracking of the coils.
  5. jasonm.
    most interesting. But I am still not going to tear the carbs off just yet....till I hear a bit more possibilities from others as to my possible causes for this odd #4 issue. I jumped head 1st into rebuilding the carbs which likely did not need everyhting I did. Now I am taking a cautious factual approach. I guess I may buy a "colortune" . But for this one issue I am not sure? Let me know what you all think...
  6. jasonm.
    glad I was correct and it could be remedied...
  7. jasonm.
    I don't think they would be missing. They are pressed in.But the reach to your wheel by these spacers may not match up...
  8. jasonm.
    The gasket material at the auto parts store is no better than the Yamaha ones. The gasket is same as the old Vmax. And still available. I have spares still of these Yamahas. But why continue use something I believe is inferior to the original from 1987. ALSO I have changed the spark plugs 3 times. And now to help lessen the misfires, I and am now using NGK non-resistor type plugs on all and a 5k ohm NGK cap on #4 instead of the 10k stock. Any other ideas?
  9. jasonm.
    you are starting your advance too high...I see 12 or 13 degrees at idle. Stock these are 5 degrees...this eliminates knocking(ping) off idle with regular grade gas. If possible I suggest you try to get to 5 degrees start.
  10. jasonm.
    Thanks, But I don't think Valves would cause this. Because tight valves cause lack of compression and thus less intake vacuum...aka less fuel. Also the valves all were check by me @ 66k. Now have 74k. THIS IS a probable gas foul misfire issue...ARCING...zap zap can't burn the gas. I think I need a colortune thingy to know absolutely. But rule is...if you cannot burn it and zapping happens...it's too rich. I am trying to find anyone with possibly similar issues after a carb rebuild.
  11. jasonm.
    the fuel sender has copper windings. If you don't keep the tank full when not ridden...the copper oxidizes. The sender can be cleaned w/#600 or 1000 wet paper. It's in the "little box".
  12. jasonm.
    You need to look at the FJR rear where the splines engage. There is a pressed in axle spacer. In this case it may not be the correct length to press against the left wheel bearing properly. Look at both rear drives in this area. I think you'll get the idea.
  13. jasonm.
    Well, after getting my '87VR back together I had 2 stuck carb needle/seat assemblies. So I decided since the old girl had over 70k...it was time for a complete going thru of all carbs. I have put 99% of all the miles on this bike. So I know how it should run. I have done carb work many times on many different bikes. So I was not afraid. Jets were removed, jet blocks "dipped". I set the floats absolutely perfect on the bench and confirmed w/engine running. Results have been all carbs give an ideal idle of 2.5ccw low speed screw all carbs. While #1 & 2 cause rpm drop right at 3 ccw. Which is quite normal to me. BUT on #4(rght. frnt) I can go to 5 turns ccw and not cause the idle to drop and #3 is almost the same. Which is not normal to me. All settings done with an accurate digital tach. Carbs are syc'd.All checks for vacuum leaks done. None found nor suspected because... HERE's the real issue. #4 starts to misfire when the bike is really hot, seemingly like too rich. I can hear the spark cap arcing and using a screw driver and my finger(ouch)confirmed this. Wire replaced 2 times, spark plug & cap(stock and NGK) 3 times-no change. The spark plug is not wet when it is removed. But does have a very small brown spot on it. I suspect something like this may be impossble to read w/o that glass spark plug thing(can't remember the name).I honestly believe the new internal gaskets that are now the "norm", don't seal worth a damn. These new cheapo gaskets are very fiberous.I suspect they don't seal well. The originals were hard paper. Does anyone else whose done rebuilds have the same suspicions regarding these NEW gaskets...? My only other possibility is the choke plunger leaking. But this possibility is something I have never witnessed in all my years. Lastly , I used to always get over 40mpg solo... Now it's impossible. No, I am not going to lower the needles. That's not the issue here.
  14. jasonm.
    the main reason it got pitted is because the fluid was not changed as described in the manual. DOT 3&4 Fluid attracts water. The water settles at the lowest point. The slave cylinder. Water pits the aluminum slave...You ask yourself. How does the water get in? SAme as in the brakes ....thru all the rubber seals and gaskets. They are not able to keep ALL gases out.
  15. jasonm.
    1st the whole reason for my query...I am not removing and sealing the tank. Thus the reason for the poll. 2nd...Still asking, "does SeaFoam desolve rust?" If yes, then it is likely an acid compound. I see on their web site they say "moisture removal". Tank was only drained for a couple hours while cleaning. And now it is full again. So I am leaning towards putting a good size magnet in the fuel tank...next time I drain it. Next week.
  16. jasonm.
    FYI-Should you get the entire shock. I believe to adjust the preload requires "old school" tools, to screw the collars. I time consuming chore. I put the front and rear springs on my 87VR a long time ago. A good upgrade if you drive 2-up a lot.
  17. jasonm.
    My only comment. You should not be having driving lights turned on ...unless you are on the interstate or consistantly running over 3500rpm. Excess draw at low RPM will kill any stator...given enough time.
  18. jasonm.
    so, are you saying SeaFoam desolves rust...? I have never bought any nor read the can. I have lots of magnets available. And with holes. But just on the hose itself? Assuming the magnets work , could cause a blockage.
  19. jasonm.
    I have OEM yamaha filter on my bike. It does not catch this "rust dust". My best description is...It's baby powder fine. The filter does good at large bits. I took the filter off after being on for 30k. Then blew it out. Lots of rust came out. But the bits were of the sort you could feel and see easily. I tested the dusty stuff off my rags. This stuff does stick to a magnet . But does not jump to a magnet. I do not want this going into the carbs. It tends to cake up.
  20. jasonm.
    the sensor works like this...It passes and electrical signal to the monitor system. In this case for the monitor to shut off the "alarm" it needs 5 volts. The electrolite in the middle cells give a total of approx 6-7 volts+ when testing to ground. But if the electrolite does not touch the sensor the result is NO voltage to the system. Thus the alarm. So sticking it in a glass of water does not send the needed voltage.
  21. jasonm.
    what about tire pressure. This varies dependng on what brand of tire you run. I believe Dunlop and Bridgestone and Metz. Recommend about 36psi. Avon about 42. If your forks or tire psi are pumped up too high...the frt. tire will track every crack in the road and feel tipsy
  22. jasonm.
    I'm trying to post this poll based on my recent carb rebuild. Finding rust dust in the carbs. I then emptied the fuel tank. There was a thin scale of rust in much of the tank. I cleaned it good w/rags on end of "rod". I have had my '87 VR since '89. Over the years 90% of the time when the bike is parked over night...the tank is full. Rust is a result of the new ethanol fuels that have found their way to my area about 8 years ago. So it's going to be a issue for all vehicles. Especialy 2 wheeled. OK, all of the choices are based on just cleaning w/rags. NOT etching and sealing the tank. FYI, fuel filters will not catch this stuff. Which one of these makes the most sense to do or not to do after general cleaning ? Should you feel the need...You can choose more than one item in the poll.Thanks in advance...
  23. jasonm.
    ANY stranded core wire is usually good. The better ones have about 20 strands.I have just what you describe...black, white then core wire. That I got at a auto parts store. I do not recommend graphite resistor wire like cars have used for years. Graphite wire cannot be used with resistor caps or any NGK cap.
  24. jasonm.
    FYI, most of those foam products will not withstand life in the airbox. Or just crush down and be useless. FYI. get a K&N and be done with it. Also sometimes the seals on the bottom of the K&Ns can let go. And can be glued back with Yamabond or other quality "sticky stuff"...NOT RTV
  25. jasonm.
    Vests usually draw about 45 watts(~4amps) You have a 32 amp charging system at HIWAY speeds. Not at idle.These bikes need 20+amps of juice just to keep going. AND Assuming you have no other high draw accessories on, like driving lights....As long as you are running at hiway speeds ...say over 3000rpm . You should be fine. Don't be city driving w/vest turned on.
×
×
  • Create New...