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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    I am glad another one is saved. The easiest way to connect the air box hose. Is prior to installing the box, have the hose attached to the box . Get it angle just right. Then use 11" long nose pliers($5 advance auto). Makes this a 5 minute job...if that. Especially with a second pair of hands to help guide the hose. Remember when working with the "box". "Think outside the box".
  2. jasonm.
    use some HI-moly grease on the spline to the u-joint. I found some caliper grease...has teflon, moly and graphite. Also on 1300's do NOT seperate the shaft from the drive unit unless it's leaking. Otherwise you have to buy a new shaft drive seal.
  3. jasonm.
    after my 1st tip over...many years ago. I ground it waaaaaaaaay down
  4. jasonm.
    the easiest way to do it . Do NOT remove the water pump.Is to remove the thermostat housting. NO Gaskets required. JUST O-RINGS. You may need to loosen some clamps on hoses a bit. Just imagine you are removing your starter. the thermostat housing has to come out.
  5. jasonm.
    The stock calipers on the Ventures are not dead centered. My FJ calipers are identical to the Ventures but w/different pistons and less rotor cut out. Like the R1 calipers. Less cut out makes rubbing a possibility. And my FJ units were like new from a crashed bike with 10k on it. Yet had to be centered(less rotor cut out). So I am glad to hear the R1 calipers center right up for you guys. FYI- you cannot hear the rubbing while riding if it was to happen. Remember nothing is made perfect all the time. So, The 1 or 2 mm of aluminum rubs off the caliper happens rather quick. Others have told me different about the centering and some shimming is requied for R1's. Last year I had a chance to get R1 calipers cheap. I had them in my hands at a swap meet. $30 per set. Yes, 4 calipers for $60. I probably should have gone for them. Reason I did not is because I just got new rotors and new pads a few years back. And to throw away the new pads($70) is too wasteful to me right now. Maybe I will get R1's in the furure. Just one question to be sure...WOULD my 5/8 master be too much on the R1 calipers? I think some yamahas(ex:FJR) do run 5/8 masters with these. Lastly, I am not trying to give anyone a "hard time" or scare them. I have done numerous brake conversions on different bikes. Done many different things on bikes that improve them. Just pointing out some concerns that others have noted. No need to be defensive...
  6. jasonm.
    Oh grasshopper....check the manual. the stock 1st gen 1300 calipers use 2 different size pistons. Left caliper has 32mm, right caliper has 34mm. Because the right is originally controlled by the right master cyl. Bigger pistons lessen the ratio of force. Yanaha did not want too much front brake. Grab your old calipers and check. FJ1200 has 32mm all around, that was my reasoning back then. AND with delinked,5/8 frnt. master & SS lines I have a great feel and far better than stock stopping. The R1 calipers are very efficient and I believe you can delink and not change the front master. But, I don't think you get what I am saying about the caliper touching the rotor. This has nothing to do with warped rotors. The stock rotors for the Venture are 7mm thick as the R1's are barely 5mm. If your calipers are not centered over the rotor...they can touch the R1 caliper sides. Yes, 2mm makes a difference. Yes, I have R1 rotors on another non-R1 Yamaha. So the above is all true. Others on the "other Venture site" have noted this rubbing. And dremeled the excess away. Maybe R1 rortors are closer to being centered from the beginning than the FJ rotors I have. But, If you never checked this. The rotor will rub the extra aluminum off in 50-100 miles anyway. Or damage the rotor. If you want to be careful and do the check I suggest the first time...fine. It's your ride.
  7. jasonm.
    I did not cut my sensor lead. I Bought connectors at radio shack to. What if you go back to a traditional battery...hey... ALSO, when using resistors and adding to get to the proper resistance... connect in "series" NOT parallel.
  8. jasonm.
    you have 2 choices. All the sense system needs is 5vdc to shut the warning off. Many do the 2200 ohm resistor from the sense wire to +12v access connection. Too little resistance and you smoke the computer sense circuit. SO, I did the logical choice. I did a 6 volt zener diode to the accessory connection. Yes, electronics are my profession
  9. jasonm.
    the pressure plate bearing does nothing till you pull the clutch lever. So if IT stops noises when you pull.... That's not likely it. You have the typical rattle these heavy assemblies have. There is No replacable bearing in the main basket. Just a cross drilled bronze bushing. Bushng wears= wobble wobble and the plates also do a bit or noise as well.
  10. jasonm.
    Some 15 years ago on my Royale. The damn right rotor was loose. Click when touching the breaks and sometines a clack as I started off. I just grabbed the rotor and sure enough I could move it 2mm frwd and back. Easy thing to check...
  11. jasonm.
    Haha kids, the reasons and timing(time warp) when I did mine with FJ1200 is because I am way head of you guys. THE R1 did not exist when I did this. Also the FJ1200 has same pistons both sides L-caliper vs. R.caliper The MKII-1300s do not. Thus one side wears faster that the other when delinked w/o the FJ calipers. ...aka uneven breaking. my pads don't lie and my calper pistons do not stick. Also , I suggest you look closer after putting the R1 calipers on. AGAIN, our rotors a way thicker and can rub the caliper. I say when doing the conversion put on the calipers w/o pads. no rubbing, then great. But, I am not the only one to see this rubbing.
  12. jasonm.
    Advance Auto or Autozone or PEP BOYS... I honestly dont remember. Advance is closest to me. So I'll lean that way. Just remember 20mm x 1.5 "Oil Tite" brand. And the "washer area" must be shinny. Like is was polished. The Oil Tite brand is good usually. Don't buy a plug that is dull looking. OH , one more thing. You may wish to use a copper washer instead of the one that come w/the drain plug. That's what I did. All that pressure you know. Just don't go crazy tighening it...big threads in aluminum you know. I did mine right the 1st time no leaks. OR copper plus some RTV when totally clean. Copper allows you to retry should it seep at all. "Copper is reusable". Oh, did I say I have a drill press and cobalt grade bits. You have to drill a 1/8" hole all the way thru. Then drill half way thru for the tapper. Patience is the key here.
  13. jasonm.
    I don't have a part # . BUT, DO YOU HAVE THE original thermostat? If yes...then there is a screw in the middle. Use a good fitting screwdriver. It will be stiff to turn...steel screw against the brass...it will turn. TURN it CW till it's flush then recrimp. NOW you have a 165 thermostat. This can be done with most thermostats. They are set this way when made...just to whatever spec./temp is required. Must be a brass T-stat. Mine runs very cool all the time. Rarely higher than "4 o'clock". Also I just thought...CHECK the plastic drain cock below the radiator. If not set correctly...you could possibly run hotter than normal...I think. But not overheat like yours has been doing.
  14. jasonm.
    I did like salty. But left the gauge right on the engine by the oil water pump. 2 - 45 degree fittings keep it where I can see it when stopped. Gauge cost $30, drain plug 20mm x 1.5 $3. The drill & tap. I used a 60# gauge because the accuracy of the 100# units are usually way off below 20psi. Also you know when the engine is warmed up. As the pressue drops to below 20psi @idle. Oh yes, in case I take a hard spill and break the gauge off...I carry the original plug.
  15. jasonm.
    It's a $40 colortune or an expensive EGA machine. The idea for me is to not have to guess after I probably go thru the carbs for the 3rd time ...whether or not #4 is too rich. If it's orange=too rich. This takes a lot of time off trouble shooting. Others have used them. I have not heard any complaints. If anyone having a colortune has any user helpful hints ...email me. I really went thru all of them w/ "fine tooth comb" as they say. They were clean to start with. But had them apart to change needles/seat assemblies and said..." this is nothing new to me, what the heck". I am not a novice at this sort of thing. So I know I have an issue. I posted a "knocking noise" from my water pump a while back. NOW I suspect even though my carbs are sync'd perfect. Having #4 very rich is not allowing it to idle as smooth as possible. Jusy hoping the colortune shows up by end of the week.:fingers-crossed-emo
  16. jasonm.
    I am just speaking off idle and low speed. The fuels out here in the states have gone to crap. And the 5 degree setting from stock protects. Also efficient engines don't need a high advance at idle. Advance is to give time for fuel to burn . Yamaha made a big deal about how good their design is/was.
  17. jasonm.
    Note: the R1's rotors are thinner. Thus, Yamaha to save weight made the calipers slim as possible to fit these rotors. Thusly you MAY have to take some material off where the rotors run and center the calipers using washers. Please correct me if I am wrong. I used FJ1200 calipers because they use same pads. But I still had to remove some aluminum with dremel tool.
  18. jasonm.
    I USED TO HAVE AN OIL COOLER ON MINE. But that's when I pulled a trailer cross country. The cooler adapter I used came from and XS1100 series lockhart cooler. I do NOT recommend an oil cooler because the cooler and fittings limits MAX. oil pressure when engine is hot. Don't do it. Trust me on this. Better to just get a cooler thermostat. That's what I did.I have a stant 227 rad. cap on mine. Also make sure you did not put the thermostat in upside down. Correct is , "Point faces UP". ANd get a an infrared thermometer. You can find them cheap sometimes. Just point and shoot. It won't lie. I honestly think you have a crudded up radiator.
  19. jasonm.
    running uneven...does not cause excessive pressure in the cases. Just uneven pressure. No more than running at 3000rpm all the time. I think your RTV likely sealed something up. Also the PCV design on these works good. especially if you have K&N in the air box. GLad to hear all is well.
  20. jasonm.
    that's a good idea. I did Dyno my bike 4 years ago 93hp @7000rpm. In fact have had it done 4 times on 2 different dynos...always 93+hp. And 80+ft/lbs torque at most any rpm up to 5500 . Still waiting for reply from the seller. Just wish someone had a colortune near me...
  21. jasonm.
    I glad to hear that a problem was solved. FYI to all. The stator in our bikes is still being made for other models including the RSVenture. So if you can get an OEM NEW and cheap...that's nothing to worry about. The OEMs do leak eventually due to the braided wire. So Rick's will likely be better for sure in that area. ALSO, I ohmed out the stock connections . The red is always connected to + of the battery, found zero ohms. So running a whole new + wire to the battery seems unnessesary/redundant.
  22. jasonm.
    Unlike wheel bearings, these bearings are hammered while riding. It's the oil and additives in the grease along with proper setting up that protects the bearings.And within 10 miles it's wiped away during a ride. Without oil in grease...you have wax. The hardness of the bearing and much petroleum is the key to long life of these. So the reservoir created by pumping up the steering neck AFTER packing is good to do. FYI, loose bearings cause them to hammer more. Thus wear out faster. Finally after 20+ years & 70k of wheeling and lots of hard riding my bearings needed replacement. They displayed only a slight detent on the "center stand check". Upon disassembly the marks are viewable(dark spots or lines) but impossible to feel. If you have stiffer than stock "progressive springs"...you are hammering the bearings more. I have Progessives.
  23. jasonm.
    FYI, if you are taking it apart. (A) clean the inside of the stem. (B) get a drill and tap for a grease fitting. ©...pump it up w/grease and never worry again that you'll need to tear it down.
  24. jasonm.
    Yes, the '86 has metal impellar. But it's easy to check by pulling the round cover off. If you are over heating and you have a good cooling system as your tests suggest... Then you likely have the engine WAAAAY out of tune. Or something you are saying you think is true(thermostat good, etc)...may be not so true. What are you seeing for MPGS on the hi-way? You should see 35mpg+ all the time. Oh, the brown wire is the "sense wire". It is switched on w/the ignition, it detects the voltage in the system and TURNS ON the R/R along with giving a reference to regulate the voltage. FYI, should the brown wire not be connected and is needed...your charging voltage can go to 17vdc.
  25. jasonm.
    Well, I went on Ebay. And on Tuesday ordered/won a Colortune for 12mm spark plug engines. NOW the bad news. The damn volcano in Iceland has likely stopped the Colortune from shipping. Talk about bad timing. The seller has not updated me on anything regarding, if this got shipped shortly after I "won" this. Their normal site info says something like this, "expect 7 days for shipping, coming from UK." Someone up there hates me.
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