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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    that's good stuff to view. thanks....
  2. jasonm.
    Mine does not pop. Now I wish it did. I can live with that. I posted here about the plungers. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49478
  3. jasonm.
    I have found that many do not realize that these Ventures when tested in the 80's got 35-45mpg easily on the gasoline of that era. Now you should expect to get 5% less mileage per gallon on today's crap we are forced to burn. BUT I believe some have poor mileage issues is due to a common carb condition. Very much common on Miukuni CV carbs. AKA leaking starter plungers. These are also called enricheners(choke) used to get extra fual to start the bike. Most of you know what I am talking about. Well, I have found 2 things. (1) the rubber in the brass plunger can wear. (2) the seat the plunger rests against can pit or corrode or get black bits of the plunger stuck to it. Either of these will cause poor mileage. Now the bad news . From the looks of Yamaha's web site. The plungers are available @$50+ ea. The seat assembly does not show on Yamaha's parts as an available item. I made a sudo-tool to resurface the seats. It's not something for the faint of heart. Lowering the needles makes up for the richness due to this and other problems. Just my $.02
  4. jasonm.
    Does anyone know the symptoms when these go bad?
  5. jasonm.
    I have both a Morgan carb sync and an original YAMAHA mercury sync circa 1980. Believe me, my carbs are sync'd. Richness is rarely caused by a sync issue. So I guess I should have just asked. What are the symptoms of bad coasting enricheners?
  6. jasonm.
    Well, I thought I had this #3 & 4 rich idle issue figured out. I found a bad float needle @ #3. Replaced #3 & 4 needles. Set all floats again...to be sure. This did not fix the issues w/#3 or #4 posted elsewhere. ALSO to be sure my "choke" plungers were absolutely sealing, I used double springs. They were checked under mag glass. ANd I made sure the choke body was good at the seat. No change. Could it be the coasting enricher? And how does is work? And if it's bad ...what are the possible signs? Could this be my cause? Carbs are not foreign to me. But this is a pain....Any further idea or answer are appreciated.
  7. jasonm.
    There are many. I have chosen bikes based on 3 items. Handling/power, ease of service(I do all myown work) and is the track record of a machine...checking history. ONLY HONDA I would conside is possibly an ST1100. Some did have shaft issues like the early Venture. Other than that ...they are good. Otherwise I would look for an FJR1300. Or a parts bike for my aging 1st gen 1300. Yes, I like sporty tourers.
  8. jasonm.
    since I did not see any mention of what model H-D was meeting you at the drags. Let's assume it's an air cooled big twin. Stock they have ~ 60hp or so. Put a pipe and fueling work, maybe 70hp. Now the stock 1st gens Venture in a GOOD state of tune 1200's make about 86hp @ 7000rpm and the 1300's 90+ @7000 rpm . Mine last dyno'd 93+ and 81ft/lbs.at rear wheel. If you want to get'er down the track shift right at 7500. Because the power does not taper off fast on these at redline. At least all my dyno runs have proved this. Also, leave the line between 3500 and 4200. Depending on how big your ability to slip the clutch smoothly is? This means keeping the rpms up with the throttle. To avoid bogging. Keep rpms up, and as you smoothly as you can, let the clutch out in less than half a second. Are you scared yet??? Question is, how well do you know your bike and your abilities?
  9. jasonm.
    if you idle is uneven...you need a carb sync done. Backfiring happens from unburned fuel. Many things can cause this. Including bad ignition wires OR carb issues. There is a too long of a list for me alone to go into
  10. jasonm.
    JEEEEEZZZZZ I have just seen the "light". Once all the adjusters ar loosened. Remove choke cable. THEN YOU DISCONNECT AT THE THROTTLE GRIP. This gives all the slack needed to remove and disconnect at carbs. Man where has my head been? I have been so used to removing the fairing for other things. And following the manual... I had simply forgotten.
  11. jasonm.
    The glass is to be epoxied to the aluminum. Did you remove the excess powder coat prior? Brake fluid can remove powder coat....somethimes. Also JB quik weld can handle brake fluid....I believe
  12. jasonm.
    remember these bike odometers only go to 99,999.9 Thus the bike could show low mileage but have 100,000 more than what's showing.
  13. jasonm.
    that screw should never need to be loosened. UNLESS you are removing the drain to clean it. FYI.. .the end of the screw is ground down and tapered to fit in a groove. A regular screw can damage the drain cock!!!
  14. jasonm.
    I read the OEM service manual again. It says to disconnect cables at the cruise junction box. Which as we know, that requires(what I did) removal of fairing bits and pieces. I did remove the carbs once(my 1st time) w/o going to the junction. Even with all adusters set in my favor. The "PUSH" cable was a major pain. I am always afraid I will damage the cables. Guess that is why I have been doing it "by the book"... Also, the carbs come out easy if you have previously "oiled" the inside of the manifolds. They will come straight up after shifting slightly to the left and push the water hose out of the way. Condor, do you still have the cables connected to the cruise junction? I have not been able to find enough slack to do that.
  15. jasonm.
    Yes , I loosen the cable adjusters as far as possible. I have pulled them out the top. But this was once I disconnected them shorties from the junction box. I was under the impression the 1st time I did it last year. That due the lack of total cable to allow movement. It was difficult if not impossible for removal and disconnect of cables at the carbs w/o doing the disconnect from the junction box. I was sure I noted thisd somewhere in the manual. Well, I should have the carbs back in next week. Maybe the non-cruise models are easier. I could convert back to '83 non royale cables for my '87VR. That may help. In any case, If I have to do it again. I will try it your way...If anyone has better idea let me know. thanks
  16. jasonm.
    Hi guys, I have removed my carbs off my -'87 VR a few times. Every time I remove the upper left fairing to get to the cables at the Venture Cruise "junction box" and disconnect the "shorties" going to the carbs per the manual. This is a long process. Have I been doing it the hard way? Can the carbs be removed and safely disconnect the cables right at the carbs then yank them up and out the top without swearing? Bottom line , have I been disassmbling the fairing for nothing?
  17. jasonm.
    Since I have had my bike for over 20years. I have seen all sorts of plastic issues. 90% are preventable...when you know where it can and will break. FYI- fiberglass is not the best item to use. ABS type epoxy is best. Such as Devcon plastic welder from Walmart or at True Value hardware stores under their brand or Permatex Permapoxy 5 min plastic weld-Advance Auto. A true plastic welder epoxy get warm as it sets. And if you "wrap it" in plastic while it sets, it can get hot enough to smoke due to lack of air(not recommneded). Also it will not stick to plastic cooking wrap and allow you to mold it as it sets. My repairs have never come undone since the last one 17 years ago. Lastly...the stuff stinks to high heaven and can get you dizzy.
  18. jasonm.
    FYI-. On a 1300 you should NEVER remove the drive shaft from the "pumpkin". There is a seal to keep the gear oil in the rear and LUBE the rear shaft drive splines. Is the seal there? At least it should be. Otherwise you'll have a pile of oil in the swingarm. Always start with the simplest thing 1st. Brake parts....
  19. jasonm.
    I suspect you MEAN the idle-low speed screw oring leaking. Ok, ALL orings and gaskets have been changed including that one. FYI- that brand of rebuild kits I have been using for years. The jets are cheap and NOT machined like OEM mikuni jets, but the gaskets and orings are good.
  20. jasonm.
    I disagree on 5w20 being less than 10wt. I use 5w20 mobil 1 in my forks. I did a flow test. Because that's how dampers work, restricting flow. 5w20 is actually slightly thicker than 10wt. but less than 15wt. 0w20 is same as 10wt. trust me on this. AND using a 10w30...wow that is usually WAY stiff. As my testing and riding showed 0w30 and 5w30 also too stiff for my 190# self. Which I did try years ago. As far are similarities to Dextron...I really do not know. But the above is many hours of testing on a flow bench thru orifaces.
  21. jasonm.
    I know somoeone who did the same . BUT tapped the stand to match the new bolt. And had the shoulder the perfect length by using a die. So only one lock nut needed ...like OEM.
  22. jasonm.
    Yes there are orings. These engines share 95% parts with the 1200 Vmax. Other than the oring leak. It could be clogged pilot gas jets clogged and someone turned up the idle to make up for it. You get HIGHER vacuum on the carbtune the more CLOSED the throttle is. Because you are measuring BELOW the throttle plate. Open plate = less vacuum on the gauge. OR YICS leaking.
  23. jasonm.
    Latest update: I got the colortune and did not show me anything. Everything is "blue". I also made sure the choke plunger were good and seated properly. I won't go into details on this choke check. But something just ain't right. I know it's rich on #3 & 4 . As it misfires when idling for long periods and just by reving it the misfire stops and runs clean for a while(few minutes). And as a test> the spark caps when a grounded screwdriver is placed near them...I get a 1/2" arc. Meaning it rather jump to a grounded screwdriver than the small gap on the spark plug within the engine. #1 & #2 do not do this. No, I do not normally idle for long periods. But this was 1st noticed when I was syncing the carbs last year after the carb rebuild. Then removed the carb sync and it did not go away. As stated before. ALL ignition items replaced that are easy to reach. Right now, I will possibly remove the carbs and replace the pilot gas jets. I did remove and clean the gas pilots during rebuild process. Maybe they are not seated correctly. Which sounds impossible. Since I tightened them good. Could I have cleaned them too much? They are expensive from Yamaha. But there are other suppliers like Sudco.
  24. jasonm.
    FYI, there are internal contacts in the fuel pump...that may need a cleaning... If the pressure sensor is bad...then replacement is the only option.
  25. jasonm.
    Slipping...I suspect you put the steel plates in backwards. Also , I did a clutch conversion long before Barnett even made one for the Vmax which uses the same clutch as our 1300's. My clutch since I did this some 20+ years ago had never slipped till I hit 60k on it or so. And was/ is good for cherping 2nd gear. I did all of this w/o using a 2nd diaphragm spring. Which I found way too stiff. Remember, anything can be made the way you like it...especially using wrenches.
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