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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    yes, temps make reading change. Thanks for clarifying
  2. jasonm.
    how difficult is it to pull the clutch lever? Mine the clutch hose failed interanlly. Blocking fluid flow a bit. And thusly the slave cylinder did not move as it should. This hose makes a sharp bend at the steering neck. And the hose fails internally at this area.
  3. jasonm.
    I did post this on the other thread. But wanted to give all a heads up... Well, here I am. Finally able to breathe. Been working on these carbs for weeks. Got a spare set off Ebay. They were in good shape. I used the #3 & 4 bank w/new parts needed. Now my power is linear. Did 125 mile back road ONLY ride. Speeds of 45-70. My overall average was close to 55mph. So, I was using a lot of the pilot jet. Went and filled up at the end of the ride. I really tried to get in as much as I could in the tank by shaking the bike on the center stand...could only fit 2.9 gallons in. That's 43mpg in the hilly area I live in. Pretty damn good and close to what I always got for the past 20 years with this beast. NOW-Neither #3 nor 4 plugs are black. #3 is light brown spot on the tip and #4 is almost white, like 1 & 2. I have #3 pilot screw is 2 ccw turns out and #4 is 2.25 or so-ccw. Note: all settings using digital tach. Prior to this latest carb work. I could not break 40mpg. Last remove / rebuild times, the float/fluid height was dead on and did not change. But still had it too rich somehow. NOW-Something just works better with these Ebay carbs. I know there is something I must have done wrong since the original carb rebuild a year ago. And #1 and 2 have never had an issue. As far as #3&4 problems, I am not entirely sure what the cause was or is on the originals. So my original set of 3 & 4 will just sit. I will be getting it EGA'd soon, to get this finished. I don't think #3 should be the only "brown" plug. But it's better than the black I had before. And the fuel mileage speaks for itself. Thanks for all the suggestions. Even if I haven't a clear idea why she was rich and what I did to fix it. Now if it skips/misfires at idle when hot. My profession being in electronics. I am not worried if it's an electrical issue, coils, or TCI. Because that's all that's left. Hope this is the last of this issue. I bet you hope the same... You must be tried of me by now.
  4. jasonm.
    ONE simple fact many are not aware of. The meter's leads havea built in resistance. Often .3 ohms. So reading .6 or .7 ohms is good. I am speaking of a good digital ohm meter and leads. THere is a frame ground that is tough to get to. It's to the left of the battery. the battery box or the whole left side fairing pieces need to be removed to get to this ground. You can add additional grounds yourself to the frame using 12 awg wire. It could be your connector to the R/R for pos. and neg. This connector is seperate from the white/stator wire connector and could be corroded. But in the same general area as the stator connector by your left leg.
  5. jasonm.
    Well, here I am. Finally able to breathe. Been working on these carbs for weeks. Got a spare set off Ebay. They were in good shape. I used the #3 & 4 bank w/new parts needed. Now my power is linear. Did 125 mile back road ONLY ride. Speeds of 45-70. My overall average was close to 55mph. So, I was using a lot of the pilot jet. Went and filled up at the end of the ride. I really tried to get in as much as I could in the tank by shaking the bike on the center stand...could only fit 2.9 gallons in. That's 43mpg in the hilly area I live in. Pretty damn good and close to what I always got for the past 20 years with this beast. NOW-Neither #3 nor 4 plugs are black. #3 is light brown spot on the tip and #4 is almost white, like 1 & 2. I have #3 pilot screw is 2 ccw turns out and #4 is 2.25 or so-ccw.Note: all settings using digital tach. Prior to this latest carb work. I could not break 40mpg. Last remove / rebuild times, the float/fluid height was dead on and did not change. But still had it too rich somehow. NOW-Something just works better with these Ebay carbs. I know there is something I must have done wrong since the original carb rebuild a year ago. And #1 and 2 have never had an issue. As far as 3&4 problems, I am not entirely sure what the cause was or is on the originals. So my original set of 3 & 4 will just sit .I will be getting it EGA'd soon, to get this finished. I don't think #3 should be the only "brown" plug. But it's better than the black I had before.
  6. jasonm.
    it's a major pain the replace the coils. Someone took a short cut. You likely have a bad coil.
  7. jasonm.
    The Shingy R/R can be used on most bikes from Yamaha. Actually any bike w/3 white wrie stator input.
  8. jasonm.
    I have found that neglected bike on the outside are often missing the needed maintenance. Thus oil changes . Which leads to internal engine issues...low compression etc. And carbs sound like they need work. These carbs can be a chore. I finally got my carbs set properly after a number of R&R's on #3&4. Unless you know of another 1300 1st gen that you can swap parts with and buy both. Pass on this one or buy it diirt cheap and maybe part it out and Ebay the parts out to us out here. No matter, sounds like it ain't worth more than $500 due to it's poor condition.
  9. jasonm.
    Sounds like you have my issue. Warm and idling too long #3 drops out. But rev it for 5 seconds and it's good again. DO THIS TEST. Start it in the garage or driveway. Let it idle till it misses. Then listen for crackling or popping by the spark plug cap. When you think you found the one. Shade the area and use a long screwdriver against the head and slowly get it closer to the cap but still contacting the head. YOU NEED good 20/20 to see this. You will then see arcing from cap to screwdriver. NO your cap is not specifically bad. But that cylinder is likely rich for some reason. Float level too high or other oddity. Mine the cause to date has yet to be found. UPDATE: on mine I got another set of carbs and swapped #3 &4. Mine is now much better. I used to get a black spark plug when running non-hiway speeds. And the throttle was too sensetive. It was way rich. The 2 replacement carbs a a few new parts have seemed to get mine livable. Throttle is now linear. Next step is to EGA the bike at a local guy.
  10. jasonm.
    If you are not a person who likes to corner or like be able to corner w/o worrying about scraping. OR like to do 12 second 1/4 miles. Then the GEN.2 is fine. But remember you are now pulling another 60# plus, on a bike that is not the least bit aerodynamic, with 10 less horsepower(6500 vs. 7500 redline) than the Gen.1. Mine puts to the rear wheel what the gen2 does at the crank. I will always say, buy a GEN.2 before an H-D for sure. But Yamaha needs EFI on their touring bike , SOON!
  11. jasonm.
    all the negatives apply to the 1200's. BUT nearly all parts can be updated from a 1300 series '86-'93
  12. jasonm.
    Sounds like you have it wired the simplest way. Which does give the least resistance to electrical flow. BUT should accidently leave the switch on when the bike is parked...you will have a dead battery. This is where a relay comes in to use. All relays come w/wiring diagram. 2 posts are the coil posts(plus and neg. 12volts) that energize a magnetic coil. The other 2 posts are for your +12 in and out load. It's the coil that you only want power available when the bike is ON or in ACCES position. Most wire to the access screws on the fuse block. Now you need to decide where to place the on off switch? I recommend between the access +12 and the coil +. This way the switch is not getting jolted by a high draw every time you "flip the switch". Thus lasting a long time.NOW DO A TEST . Turn the ignition on...do you hear the relay click when you flip the switch you wired? If no..did you remember the ground(neative) side of the coil? If yes, then you are almost done You then connect the "lights" to the relay contacts or called +12 load out from battery. AND connect a +12 to the other side of the relay contacts to the battery positive. NOTE: there really is no in and out just the HI AMPs switched contact. Just think of electrical as water thru a pipe.
  13. jasonm.
    Are you sure you have 35w bulbs? Like others...I do not run my 55w pair unless it's night time and I know the revs will be above 3000. This is quite normal. Even 2 x 35w is more than 5 amp draw. These bikes only have about 10amps to spare at revs above 3000. "Electricity supply on these is not endless". Also, what do mean by wiring it better. You should be using a RELAY and extra fuses. I have 5 relays on my bike for accessories. Do you know how to wire a relay? ANd how old is your battery. Is it a higher quality battery...Sealed or AGM type I think they call it. I have a 10 year old sealed. Still stronger than a 3 year old WalMart.
  14. jasonm.
    for the seperation of diaphragm from slide....why does that seem to easy to me, ...? I don't expect to need these just yet. But I had to ask.
  15. jasonm.
    Even my spares don't show any discoloration. Pic- That looks like water damage. So this makes me feel better about my floats. Thanks.>>>>>>>>>BUT the gasahol we run today will make this happen more often ... we're all screwed.
  16. jasonm.
    are there instructions on how to remove the old diaphragm from the slide???
  17. jasonm.
    if it's weeping from the seal. You need a seal for sure. Also inspect the inner fork tube for pits and scratches. Either will make you seal fail in short order. Also you need to have the forks comressed and no springs in to use the 5" measure rule. The other way is to just do one side by removing the spring and being on the center stand measure 10.5 to 11" to the oil. I suspect you have too much oil.
  18. jasonm.
    If the pressure sensor does not see it's pressure limit. It will stop in 5 seconds. All it takes is to see it's limit once in 5 seconds. Then the check cycle starts again. This does not mean in goes in 5 second steps. Just this is a safety to prevent your gas coming out constantly and cauusing a fire. So I suspect yours overflowing is not as constant as you think. This is a safety Yamaha built into the pump. It's not so clearly stated in the Yamaha manual.
  19. jasonm.
    BE AWARE- MOST of these inch measurements are w/ forks fully compressed and NO SPRINGS. Not fun....
  20. jasonm.
    I do not know what carb clean you used on the needles(valves). Some carbs cleaners will damage the float needle. Though Not sea foam. Sea Foam in my opinion is just heavier weight WD40. Berryman's is very strong and should be used sparingly. You MUST use a good magnifying glass to inspect the needle. I had a bad one last week,and did not see it till I used such a glass. Now my floats are set perfect. But I still have other issues. FYI, the fuel pump has a 5 second limit. It will not pump more than 5 seconds constantly. Especially w/engine not running. Must turn ignition off then back on the make sure bowls are full.
  21. jasonm.
    one thing. spark plugs do not change color instantly. You need to run the same load and speed for miles to get a true indication. BUT if you are too rich at idle(like me) and you slow down, then kill the engine. You can get a misreading because you did not kill the engine prior to slowing. The reading won't be far off. But a bit of soot could show at the tip. Take it from me...I know.
  22. jasonm.
    Also, I forgot to mention. I did a compression test. STONE cold, my 74k VR had well over 150psi in all cylinders. Another reason I am not giving up.
  23. jasonm.
    I changed those bastard screws on all them reservoirs. I have a True Value hardware. He has SS in all the small and medium size metrics. His prices are steep. But he always has what I need. Phillips, allen or chrome.
  24. jasonm.
    OEM spark plug caps.They can get water in them and corrode interanlly. FYI , you can disassmble them with a good fitting screwdriver...the stock ones are 10k ohm resistance. NGK is 5k. If you do find this issue. They can be carefully cleaned. Dp this on the kitchen table on a piece of white paper. There are small bits inside> spring, flat washer, resistor. Not necessarily in this order. Do not sand the resistor! Use dielectric grease on the screw that holds it together.
  25. jasonm.
    Maybe you kept your bike in a higher gear on back roads or shifted sooner than you buddy. Thus you could get better mileage just by your riding style. Or simply, your bike was tuned better.
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