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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. Looking into the manual. I see if that nut assy.breaks. The "splined" area that holds the shaft will or could wobble. Did you find or notice this? I gather this would be the source of some noise also.
  2. On the Michelin site. For the Commander,I did not see a 120/90-18 for our front tire ...
  3. There should be NO OIL on any mating surfaces! REMEMBER THE TOTALLY DEGREASE THE CRANK AND FLYWHEEL(ROTOR) w/ lacquer thinner or brake clean.
  4. If you did not change the mufflers. could be who ever changed the exhaust, changed the main jets. Shorty mufflers are rarely good for power and usually sound like hell..Believe it or not a proper running Venture that is not tuned too rich. Pulls smooth and even below 3000...then the slides rise and YES, it starts to go with a significant pull. Like on old 4 barrel carb on a small block V8 as the 2nd pair of barrels open. Mine was running rich for months. TUrns out the pilots screws were too rich of a setting , and one float needle was bad. BUT When too rich- results are... below 2500rpm the bike will "leap" forward at very little throtlte in the 1st and 2nd gear sometimes 3rd as well, and your gas mileage will be poor. But you'll feel like you have a rocket below you. Drag racers like this condition because it gives immediate power when the throttle is opened. AKA "rich to just right" which makes more power for a short amount of time. Since your seems to not do this and is lazy at low rpm... I think the exhaust and mains may be the thing. Or even other carb issues.
  5. I just saw a Honda Shadow today with the Commander on the rear. A truly nice rounded profile, tapered tread like the Avon. NOT flat like Dunlop. Another positive...
  6. just my luck...living 2000 miles away. I could use a spare rear drive. But I think Skydoc has that called for. Hope he changes his mind...
  7. See what you are saying....Seems your reserve lighting unit is working and has switchewd to high for you and your low beam filament may be shot. Get another H4 and test.
  8. good soldering requires a CLEAN soldering tip, good quality rosin core solder and good pinpoint heat and then the solder flows where you want it. My soldering iron is Butane powered...
  9. the accessory terminal is fused on my Royale
  10. If you have never seen what the needle looks like. It's simply a bit of rubber on the end of a piece of aluminum that ride in the inlet tube. The rubber get old and oxidizes and makes it easier to leak or grab the naughty dirty bits coming from the fuel tank. I changed 3 out of 4 this year. I know I will regret in the future not doing the 4th.
  11. Radio shack sells both the standard 5 pin din fits the bike and the mini 5/6 pin connector aka PS2 fits the helmet. The mouse extension cables are available everywhere they sell computers... Note: they are NOT coiled / spring type. And look a lot like the previous post. Mine are white...can also find black if you look.
  12. Wizard, your latest post helps. Unless I hear negatives. Then the commander will be my next tire. My Avon only went 10k on the back. I had an older Avon Elan last about 20k...yes...20k. And it stuck like glue and was much quieter the the Venom. Similar tread to the Commander.
  13. Wouldn't the broken pinion nut be making a racket all the time...?Grisolm, did you actually find the nut broken??? After looking in the service manual. Randya, I think what you mean by "broken nut" is the pinion end with the nut has broken OFF! THus you would need a pinion. With all the hard miles on mine. I think a bad noise would have been noticed when I ran mine on the dyno last week...for over an hour. But I could have a broken pinion end too. As the last rear oil change had a bit more metal than usual on the magnet.
  14. I think I missed something in the translation. Is the bike wrecked or just a pain the get running proper or both?
  15. 1ST LET ME SAY. I need a new rear tire....I corner the hell out of my bike. I am under 200#. My 800# 87VR "sport bike" is set w/30 psi in the rear suspension W/PROGREESIVE SPRINGS FRONT AND REAR.. . The SIDE STAND AND CENTER stand tabs are worn to nubbs. The saddlebag trim is now trimmed to a unique shape. Get the idea? I cannot find any info on this tire being USED by us 1st Gen. riders? I love the handling of the Avon's. But now the cracking issue is not going away. I am considering the Commander. I had Dunlops in the past and they do NOT provide the "feedback" I need while cornering. SO I need a great handling rear tire that give me feel, aka feed back in the corners...NOT AVON, NOT E3's. Does anyone have some 1st hand, 1st gen info, feedback? And what's the max. PSI for the commander rear tire? What mileage life should I get? I got 10k out of the Venom rear. Any ideas, info or suggestions are much appreciated.
  16. The sending units for the fuel gauge rarely go bad. They can get dirty(higher resistance) with oxidation. BUT higher the resistance = lower the reading. Now the higher that you have. Senders don't usually read low when bad. Buut the starting point wpould be to remove the sender and test it. FYI, you can remove the sender after you have used about 2 gallons of gas. The rubber seal at the sender is a tough item and rarely go bad. The washer/gaskets at the screws also are tough items. So I would pull the sender out and test it per the manual. THIS IS THE EASIEST thing to test. If it passes the tests. The the computer moniter has issues. As far as the 34 mpg goes. Run it some more...at least 2 tanks of fuel. HAs is don e much sitting. New gas goes to hell in 2-4 weeks. And quicker in the float bowls.I use Star-tron in my gas. Available in high power formula(8oz. does 128 gallons) at Boating places and Marinas. The stuff works to keep the gas from turning bad. Better than Sta-bil.
  17. Look carefully , even Honda had small screws in the intake somewhere, to allow using adapters to connect a sync tool.
  18. Well, I did some shimming. ANd did the measurement ins inches. stock being .122".. I dropped to .102 " . On the dyno it runs better at cruising speeds.
  19. should have 2 holes on each muffler. This lets the the condensation dry out that happens on the multi-wall pipes. You should see a some water come out on start up , if it's been sitting for a day or so.
  20. The caliper should not EASILY move. It's clamped by axle at the "carrier" or mounting arm some call it. If it moves easily with your hand. Someting is not correctly tightened. Either the axle or 12mm head bolts. There is suppose to be over 100 ft/lb of torque on the axle. IT's not suppose to move!
  21. Good idea. You should always start with new plugs because any brown color on the tip area is permanent once it's there. Sort of like baking bread. Once it's brown...you can't go back.
  22. THE LOW SPEED SCREWS DO NOT EFFECT running past 2500rpm. 4 turns out is way rich. You are playing with 2 adjustments at the same time....needles and low speed. NEITHER EFFECTS THE SYNC. significantly. Popping is usually a lean condition...I had a leak in my boost sensor for years. I had a popping and hesitation for years if I did not let it warm up enough. Just fixed it last year. The shims are not the "FIX ALL" for every problem. Sounds like you are, "lean on the bottom and rich on top." Sounds like you have multiple issues and causes. My choke plungers were leaking until I diagnosed that this year. Now, It's smooth city. Whether I twist the throttle hard or soft. BUT I totally tore thru my carbs multiple times to find all the issues. Bad, float and float needle was a big issue that took 3 tear down times to find. Both these will cause BIG TIME rich issues .
  23. It will work. You may only have to jet down the mains ANd adjust the low speed screws a bit. You need to do it in steps. But I know the mains are smaller for the 1200s. Go to Yamaha web site and find the main jet differences. We all know the pilots are bigger on the '83 but yamaha did that on many bikes their 1st year during the 80's. Then changed it for better overall performance the 2nd year...with no other changes.
  24. Yes...6-8 volts is the truth. I put a 6.5volt zener diode in at the accessory terminal to the sensor wire. Did the trick. But even with 30 years on electronics. I accidently put the zener in backwards the 1st time....and poof goes the board. Same as no resistance ...ouch. Lucky I found a replacement cheap.
  25. I have calibrated my sending unit ...that when the light stays on, up or down hills(I have many here). I have 1.1 gal. +/- .1
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