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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    If you have been changing the rear oil while on the side stand. Then you have been underfilling it every time. Lucky it went this far. Bike must be upright when the oil change is done. A friend is a big help here.
  2. jasonm.
    that piece at the tree is NOT A METERING VALVE. It's simply a bleeder at the higheest point. The proportioning valve is by the rear master cylinder. That proportioning valve cannot go bad...it has NO seals or rubber. But anything can get clogged. My experience is you probably have a rubber seal in the master or less likely a copper sealing washer leaking just enough to cause you problems. I have had rubber hoses separate inside and leak intenally. It's a pain to find. But the cure is always ...replace the hoses.You can make your own SS brakelines with a high bleeder...if you look at Galfer , Russell and others. They offer the parts to make any size or shape brake lines. I delinked my brakes and went to SS lines 15+ years ago. I have all the stock parts. But do not feel comfortable selling or giving 20+ year old parts to anyone.
  3. jasonm.
    In old starters. The bare wire one was the ground brush. Don't get you polarity mixed up. That would be a problem...
  4. jasonm.
    FYI- to whom it may concern. The tubular steel on these 1300 trunk mounts is not very strong. THE steel CAN CRACK. Especially should your passanger lounge against the trunk or even from weight bouncing around from being overloaded. Moving the trunk back is same as adding more weight. 1200 goldwings wuold crank these same parts. And my 87VR has cracked the tubular bracket...twice. Once on each side. Now it's been welded and reinfiorced for 10 years now. Stronger than original. If you want a picture I can post it.
  5. jasonm.
    VMAX needles are the same as ours guys. At least the OEM ones are. The float height MUST be done with the carb PERFECTLY LEVEL. Using a level on the top and checking at 2 angles minimum. AND all this should be done in a vise. So you can truly check the fuel height. mark with a scribe the 16mm mark described by others. But on the side of the carb. below the centerline. Which is also on the side. Do NOT use the ceneterline marked on the float bowls. Here's another tidbit. Use at least 3' of clear hose on the drain to check the height. WHY? Because You need to simulate fuel being used. Have most of the hose above the carbs when you start. Then slowly or quickly bring it below the carb. The final fuel level should not vary. I learned this last part the hard way. Checking it once with a short hose is not enough . Also Virago 535s and 1200 Vmaxs use the same floats. As for changing a seat on one of these carbs. Anyone who can do it properly ...is a better man than me.
  6. jasonm.
    I am just going to say this once. The pressure plate bearing has no effect UNLESS you squeeze the clutch lever. So if it's only is loud when it's NOT squeezed. It's not likely the cause of the noise. I had a bad one...changed it. Made no diff. The noise is ALL the clutch plates rocking and the bike's carbs not sync'd and or other carb issues making it idle less than smooth. And with age, the whole basket wobbles a bit.It's a heavy assembly. The bearing is brass in the basket. Not replacable. Get the carbs set properly and live with it.
  7. jasonm.
    that is a very unique relay...as it also has what appears to be 2 capacitors
  8. jasonm.
    6th Gear? you funny...now you want a tranny like the new H-D. These bikes don't need a 6th gear... Unless they made 1st so low it was just for trailer pullers.
  9. jasonm.
    YES, SS lines and HH pads are the deal for sure. BUT,If you delink the brakes on the 1300. Be aware the piston sizes on the 1300 1st gen calipers are NOT the same on both fronts!. And the pads will wear faster on one side vs. the other.
  10. jasonm.
    The fuel filter will NOT catch everything. But the bits of rust it misses are usually too small to clog anything. I suggest you drain the tank completely. Then remove the fuel "sender". And look in the tank. I had a bunch of random rust spots and SAND in the tank. I got 90% of the stuff out. Using WD40 which does break the rust down. ANd clean white rags(Tshirts and socks) on end of a stick. A vaccum I also used ONLY around the strainer. Do all cleaning w/petcock OFF. The little bit of WD40 will not hurt anything when you start it. ALSO how is the petcock strainer? EVAPORUST is a water base product that does a great job on rust. BUT MUST be flushed w/water. Making the job a BIG one.
  11. jasonm.
    I have a guy near me parting out a Virago 535. Which does have the same slides as our 1200s. The bike only has about 22k. I will be checking out the carbs this saturday on 9/4 . Send me a PM or email me, If anyone wants a 1200 slide for far less than new...
  12. jasonm.
    Took the bike out with the new rear commander. Handles good....Say Avons are a #10 in handling , then this is an 8 or 9 handler to me. Because it now does steers a bit slower. Needing more effort on the handlebars. AND Even though this 140/90 tire has a measured width at the tread is ONLY 130mm... RPM vs. speed is the same as before. Thus the tire is same height. But still very ODD. Michelin has not returned my calls. And Emails to them do not go thru. 38# in the tire, & 30 in the rear suspension. There are no "chicken strips" left on it. Wore it edge to edge in the first 30 miles. I could use more edge. I do not know if the available 150/80 - 16 would fit ? At this early stage ...yes it's a good tire. Not a great one. Jason
  13. jasonm.
    Pilot jets plugged usually cause LEAN issues. You are suddenly running rich. You have likely one or more bad float needles,Or floats. But not bad enough to flood the carb. I had one bad needle and bad float and my mileage went down 20%. These needles are rubber. They don't last forever. Especially with ethanol fuels. And SeaFoam is not a cure all...
  14. jasonm.
    When reinstalling the drive shaft and pumpkin to the swingarm. USE the axle to line it up square. Tighten the 4 nuts slowly. And just befor they are full tight, check that the axle should be able to rotate easily at least 90-180 degrees or rotation. If it's tough to turn all the time. Then it's not as best as can be. AKA, not aligned. This procedure is manditory on Old Goldwings. They are / were made very sloppy in this area.
  15. jasonm.
    I just got my rear commander mounted. I noticed 2 things. (1) the tire says it's a 140/90. My other bike(XZ550) has a 120 on the rear, the 120 measures 125 mm across using my caliper and the 140 Commander only measured 130mm across using my caliper. Date code 4709 made in Spain (2)-Michelin claims they use the better Rayon plies in the commander vs. cheaper polyester. Heck, mine clearly states 3 ply polyester and 2 aramid on the sidewall. What's up with that? I called Michelin. They said their info says the Rayon plies have been used for almost 7 years. And would get back to me with an answer. Did I get a fake Michelin commander or do the Spanish measure differently than me? Anyone with 1st hand info, much appreciated.
  16. jasonm.
    I think mine does similar. IF I hit the front brake hard. Tends to track whatever groove there might be in the pavement...sometimes. I put in new wheel bearings...no change.
  17. jasonm.
    I think he is saying ...2nd gear is shot on his '83 and wants to swap engines and not split cases.
  18. jasonm.
    use only MOLY grease. At least once a year. AND wipe off the excess that oozes out
  19. jasonm.
    I have a 1200 slide assy. w/spring. I think I took this almost new slide out 20 years ago before the"wrecker" came. if someone needs a 1200 slide PM me. The slides are different only by the "vent hole".
  20. jasonm.
    sounds like a wheel beariing or possibly but less likely swing-arm bearing. Note: the right bearing is a ball bearing while theleft is a roller type. The roller is less likely to go bad and can be greased.
  21. jasonm.
    I just found a bunch of 1N4004 diodes in my cabinet. These are the same but higher PIV rating. I did note in my "book" 1N4 series is a 1 amp diode. While the stocker looked like the higher rated barrel type ones. Were the numbers readable on the originals...or did you bother too look?
  22. jasonm.
    There are stickers on the bike that tell you the proper pressure in the tires. Under the side covers usually. But my rule is for any bias tire on a bike...front 20% less than max. listed on the sidewall of the tire and rear 10% less than the max. listed when riding solo.
  23. jasonm.
    wow...now my electrically charged brain is working overtime. 1N4001...YOU SAY. I probably have dozens of those. Something for the future... Oh look... I just found a bunch of 1N4004 diodes in my cabinet. These are the same but higher PIV rating.
  24. jasonm.
    Always remove the spark plugs immendiately when this happens. Then look at them and hit the starter...do you have spark? Or quicker, just carry spare plugs and disconnect from old and connect to spare, hold it against the head...is there spark? No spark it's wires caps or other electrical. Spark Yes...it's carbs too rich.
  25. jasonm.
    AS it is, I always remove the pumkin to grease the Ujoint splines at tire changing time. So also greasing the "other end" is not a biggie. Vmax is always an option. But I like the lower RPMs the stock Venture turns. But didn't someone say(sell) here you needed a shim/spacer for the Vmax rear ? Swap just the gears? you make that sound easy. I have torn thru engines. I am not a novice on such things. But rear drive gear swaps require seals and shimmiing. Which I have done before. Just trying for the simplest replacement in very good condition...as close to stock as possible.
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