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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    I like Squidley's way. I did the bolt with a 17mm head on it. Then threaded a couple jam nuts on. FYI, the fork caps do NOT need much torque. Also I cut down a 17mm allen "L" wrench as a spare. I seem to lose my tools.
  2. jasonm.
    I have to put my $ .02 in on this filter thing. I also have the spin on adapter. I also have an oil pressure gauge. This shows the PSI on the main bearings. There was not difference from using the OEM filter set up vs. a "normal" spin on filter showing on the gauge. BUT with the PUREONE the pressure was 10% or more less at start up. This is due to the fact that this filter is capable of getting 99+ % of the crude out. But does it by being "VERY restrictive". I personally suggest using the Purolator classic which is my choice most of the time. NOT the PUREONE. I have found the Bosch 3320 also a good filter. I suggest you cut open a PUREONE and see if the pleats are jammed together. The Classic has 50 outside pleats, the Bosch 60 pleats, but an enirely different material that the classic. 60 pleats is the max I can see without being restictive. FYI, they say they filter great...but do they also flow properly for us...? Thought you should be aware...
  3. jasonm.
    Hey, Gary...the rim protectors have a loop on them. That's where you put an elastic on them. This holds them in place. Thus avoiding the possibility on one falling into the tire during mounting.
  4. jasonm.
    I did like swifty suggests. And it's easy, I just redid the wiring. BUT I have mine on a switch. "Off" for back roads and ON for hiway... because when doing 70mph on the hiway and bambi jumps out. The anti-dive is a good thing. Yes, I have Progressive spring too.
  5. jasonm.
    These are very "flexible" engines. Low end torque w/ higher rpm HP. Sometimes I like riding mine at 2500-3000rpm in 5th because I know I am keeping the pilots cleared out. And it gets me 45mpg. Once a Venture is tuned properly they can run in 5th , smooth from 2000rpm on up. I took me a while to get mine to run this perfect. And after 20+ years on it. NOW, It's the best it has ever ran. An EGA machine(many dyno shops have) can solve and answer many issues. But they must use the exhaust "adapter" to read each cylinder independently. See adapter made from 6mm carb sync brass fitting and copper pipe.
  6. jasonm.
    The pipe is obviously steel...thus the rust. When I had my engine out. The rust was minimal because they do have an anti-rust plating. What minimal rust was there, I used #600 paper. ALSO do NOT cut the hose back. I have found that instead of getting a new hose. Use laquer thinner and a clean cloth inside the hose, will remove the oxidized and worn rubber. ANd the surface be like new. Just don't over do it. It is removing rubber. Then a slight bit of high quality silicone sealer on the pipe..NOT the hose. Another possibility ...This is steel...maybe a good bit of acid solder in the pitted spots...assuming the aluminum does not suck the heat out before the solder melts.
  7. jasonm.
    I will check my diodes...eventually. But I know the Barrel original diodes that Yamaha used are a usually "higher" current rated diode when compared to the 4000 series. 3 amp vs. 1 amp. So I would likely do it with something . I will get from Radio Shack just like the originals. I know they have the 3 amp type.
  8. jasonm.
    I looked at this earlier. For some reason. The oil filter cover is on WRONG. Possibly due to them Gumbys draining the oil B4 shipping. I see it can be shipped within 30 miles of me. Now I am thinking hard...and it hurts. ALSO , the gen cover says YICS. Which only the 1200s had. But the clutch cover says 1300. Also other cosmetic oddities. Like the rear cylinder dress plates have NO black or silver lines??
  9. jasonm.
    do not use sealants on the intake at the heads. UNLESS it's on the outer edge of the manifold. Reason Fuel will eat the silicone sealer. Also Left front and right rear manifolds have bolts ...that when removed OIL will leak down from the head. This is the main oil passages for the cams. These 2 bolt areas must be sealed with HIGH quality silicone AFTER no more oil is coming out and it's oil free. Use laquer thinner. FYI, ultrasonic cleaners work great as long as the carbs are prepped properly. BOWLS removed and a fee other things need to come off. But the Venture has "jet blocks" that hold the jets and these have rubber plugs. The plugs CANNOT be removed UNLESS the jet block is removed 1st. Thus without the plugs removed...it would take a bit longer to have the full benefit of the ultrasonic.If these items are removed. The plugs cost $5 each need qty.8 ($40)and 4 gaskets $7 each. ($28) . See this can get expensive. And takes a lot of time.
  10. jasonm.
    Frank, your pickture shows the washer in BACKWARDS. CORRECT is for the sharp edges face inwards...away from you as you view.
  11. jasonm.
    I poured seafoam directly into a carb that I had off the bike, that I could see the gummy stuff. Let it sit 6 hours ...nothing happened. Seafoam for carbs = snake oil.... I suggest a strong amount of Berryman's carb cleaner. Or Chevron, techron . But I have never seen anything run thru the fuel system totally unclogs a jet. But the 2 I suggest really do remove varnish and gummy crap. Popping can be coasting enrichers. Which is not a serious issue.Honestly popping is nothing to worry about...especially if it drives smoothly and goes when you twist the right grip. Tire pressures. Run 10% less than the max shown on the sidewall for rear and 20% less for the front. That's a good start for most big bikes.
  12. jasonm.
    DUNLOPS ARE THE CHEAPEST tires made. They make a zillion of them. Their bias ply construction has not changed in 25 years. My independent dealer tells me he can discount dunlops 25-45% and still make significant money on the tire. So I hope you are not paying retail anywhere.
  13. jasonm.
    A pain the change? These are easier the a newer sport bike...I can change all 4 plugs on my bike in 30-40 min. with a beer in one hand. Using a proper socket & 3" ext. on the rachet. But, If you have large hands or fat fingers...then it's a bit more aggonizing. I have skinney fingers, so the threading in the spark plugs is not an issue for me.
  14. jasonm.
    STEALER quoted me $6.50...damn...There is a new part # recently. But I don't know the real difference. So it looks like I'll do the "Dingy change over".
  15. jasonm.
    DO NOT USE FIBERGLASS to repair these ABS fairings. Why would you use a flexible material to hold what needs to be rigid? There are plastic welding epoxies out there that work very good. The best Is Devcon Plastic Welder.Google it. True Value hardware sold it for years under their name plate. And now sell it w/o the name plate. It's all Devcon when I walk into the hardware store. Makes me feel good to know that I am getting just what I want. And WalMart carried it until this year in my area. Fiberglass resins don't work well with ABS usually. I repaired a fairing that looked worse than the pics here with Devcon. And it looked like new after paint and Never cracked again. The best thing about these welder epoxies ...you can reinforce the material with plexiglass or aluminum or sheets of steel. The possibilities are endless. That repaired Bike was easily sold. ALso those pics at the beginning of the post clearly show the cracks were from a fall or tip-over.
  16. jasonm.
    So what's the recommended torque spec? I know the 10mm thread per the Yamaha manual can handle a min. 22 ft/lbs. I know the 10mm bolts elsewhere on the bike are rated for 32 ft/lbs. Anyone know the Spec. on this ...anyone? Also I just took my bolt out. And it looked fine. And thought the exact spec. would be in the book.. SH*T it's not. So I split the difference and tightened to 28 ft.lbs.or so....oh jeeezzzz....doahhh! looks like I'll be doing the "Dingy change"...
  17. jasonm.
    Mine has never done it. Likely because I keep my oil level towards the high mark. It may come on when accelerating up the steep hills by me. But I don't look at the instruments when riding. After 21 years with this beast I know when to shift. I just ride.
  18. jasonm.
    RADIO SHACK sells their electric tuner cleaner. It works usually. But for how long it lasts..I cannot say.
  19. jasonm.
    My post was only recommeded for repair of simple separation of slide and diaphragm. My '83 did this on 2 of 4 slides the 1st week I had it. Back then the slides were cheap.
  20. jasonm.
    OH, I do know of the same thing on Vmax's. So I did not think of that. Thanks for setting me strait. Well, on my Michelin I have a lot of clearance... seriously. I posted before ..HAD MY BIKE 20 YEARS now..the Michelins run "narrow".
  21. jasonm.
    that's they way...good job
  22. jasonm.
    Clutch slipping. Make sure the reservoir is NOT full. You want it half full. This allows for heat expansion of the fluid. Glad you did not get hurt. Does anyone really know if there is a specific reason for the bolt breaking? Like being loose or corrosion?
  23. jasonm.
    use the proper glue. Some will fall apart again if the wrong CEMENT is used. I have heard, prep lightly with 120 sandpaper and use J-B Qwik weld. ALSO MAKE sure the diaphragm tab and slide vent are orientated properly.
  24. jasonm.
    Not so fast. I have seen a 150/80-16 easily fit. Yes, it was a Shinko touring tire. But it fit. This particualr '88 had the bags removed. So I looked carefully while talking to the owner who had about a thousands miles on the tire. NO rubbing issues. It's a profile issue. Some tires don't "flare out" at the edges as much as others. After 33 years of riding, I personally don't like most Dunlops. Especially the 401. Many H-D riders prefer the 402. They say it's made better. I do not know the diifference. Possibly more load capable. If you want a list of reasons why I don't generally like Dunlops, you'd fall asleep...? Usually aggressive riders like myself appreciate the sharp handling of Avons. Yet, they are very stable going strait at 110 or so.... if your bike has been properly maintained.
  25. jasonm.
    The Yamaha manual makes no mention of loosening the small phillips screw by the drain.You should not have to loosen the screw. That screw is strictly an alignment screw to keep the valve from popping out and set at the correct depth. If you have to loosen the screw...then it's not the original.
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