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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    If you drive hi-way at the speeds I do...your mileage would go down. Also in very hot weather the bike will run hotter....especially on the interstate. I don't like comprimise...
  2. jasonm.
    I have had my '87 since '89....mine has always made a mild whine when letting off the gas. I suspect what you are hearing is NOT mild.
  3. jasonm.
    something is amiss. Or maybe the way you are reading the manual OR maybe the throttle cable is freyed somewhere. Carb #2 is non adjustable. ...everyone is to sync to #2 is left front...#1 is left REAR, #3 is mright rear. #4 Right front.
  4. jasonm.
    EBAY...sometimes you find LOW mileage units from 86-93...I did for less than $100. I don't like using the Vmax or FJR rear drives. Just sucks gas. At least one person installed a RS Venture rear...But he said there is a slight offset...to the left I think. I suggest being patient on Ebay. I think you may be able to buy for about $1100 - $1200 new if available. Also what's the mileage on the original ?
  5. jasonm.
    ALSO, do not fill the reservoir. Keep it half full. As the fluid gets warm and needs room to expand. Otherwise you will need another clutch sooner rather than later.
  6. jasonm.
    there's a bolt that is suppose to hold the master to the frame. I would think the frame tab is still there. Properly mount it...
  7. jasonm.
    don't do anything to the "tank cover" . As this actually funnels the air into the airbox inlet at highway speeds. Many have not placed this cover on properly only to have it blow into their face. Don't believe me ..open the gas door at 60mph or so. The air coming thru is more than enough. ANd drilling holes in the cover will cause a vacuum...just opposite of what you want....If you are running rich. Then it's likely floats are inproperly set or the needle/seats are worn. I had both of these probs for a while. I reset the floats , new needles...mileage is pretty much normal. 33-43mpg depending on how hard I do "The Twist".
  8. jasonm.
    you have a cold solder joint somwhere in the amp... or a loose circuit board.
  9. jasonm.
    I had the same thing. I had LOTS of pressure in the hydraulics on the clutch master slave. It was hard to shift and seemed like the clutch was NOT disengaging completely. The cause was the clutch HOSE. It makes a sharp bend at the steering neck. And always turning the steering to the left and locking the forks caused the hose INTERNALLY to fray. And block the fluid from doing it's job. Also the lever would not "snap" back as quickly when released. If it's not your bushing in the lever, which should be lubed yearly....then it's likely THIS hose issue. I replaced my hose with SS braided type and fittings I assembled. I think it was 63 or 64" hose, 35 degree at master and straight fitting at the slave.
  10. jasonm.
    Superbrights. Yes that's the site I have been looking at. I am not sure which type to get They have many choices for LED configuration. The x5 seems to throw the light around like OEM bulb. But the 1 bulb wide angle is much less $. What do you think? As for the R/R... I could not fit it on my air box. As that is my relays' and extra fuses' locations. I tried for days. I even removed the OEM "radio filter"..I still could not get the RADIO back in w/ R/R located anywhere in front of the amp. Thus, I remembered someone said it fits in the lower intake vent rather easily. When you do yours...take some pics. The Venture supposedly has a 32A possible output, so they say. I am not sure what fuse I should put in , a MAXIfuse 40A or an ATC 30A ? UPDATE: I FOUND 40A ATC fuses.This is obviously only "fusing" the short run output from the R/R to the battery. I wonder if it's really needed? Actually this added fuse would only protect output of the R/R for that short run. As anything past the battery that shorts or unusual increase in AMPS drawn could blow 40A main fuse or something in the fuse block. My 30 years in this business says, "not needed but not a bad idea either" . I am using 10awg on the outputs ...
  11. jasonm.
    I tried the same location...I think. I could not get the R/R to fit with the factory connectors. They stick out another 1/2". That must be the difference... in front or below radio on my 87 Royale. Also, I was looking into the LEDs for my 40 or so lights...I have everyone possible from the '92 Yamaha catalog. But never turn them on due to the draw, almost 7 amps. This was the Dealer's show bike w/all accessories. So I got it this way.
  12. jasonm.
    Dan, I fit R/R into the lower left intake vent. BELOW the radio. just drilled 2 small holes in the BLACK vent. It's super soft plastic. It does not get hot. Highest I have seen on my IR gun is 95F. I used 14awg to the stator OEM is 16awg. And being in the vent...it's less than 2' from the battery. Snaggle... Glad to know 13.3 with brakes on is pretty normal I guess. ALSO, My anti-dive is on a switch and rarely used. I was afraid of putting in LED tail lights as it would trigger the warning system. I have had my bike since '89...no one but me has played with wiring... but me. Also high quality wire strippers and crimpers make this a simple but tedious job. ..."Crimp and solder"
  13. jasonm.
    Well, I decided to test the ...connect to battery" recommendation. YES, it works better at the battery. Now at at 1000rpm idle I have 14.3v and when the engine is past 1700rpm...I have 14.45volts. Hitting the brakes at idle still drops the volts to 13.3v. But at least the battery is not "discharging"......FYI, the OEM voltmeter on the bike now lies. It is correct at the 14.4v but 13.3 volts w/brake on, does not make the gauge drop like when I had the R/R connected to the harness. Seems connecting the R/R to the harness evens out the voltage thru the whole harness. Also using 10awg at + and - with the nice weather tight SHIND... connectors.
  14. jasonm.
    3000rpm whine is normal on mine the last 73,000 miles. But vibration is relative to what you are used to. I do know the slides start to rise at 3000. And the mains come in. That is why I sync my carbs at 3000rpm no load. Then rev to 5000 for a second or two, to confirm all is in sync still. Mine has always been least "smooth" in the vibration department @3200-3600. The rumble....that is idle rattle of the clutch basket. If only at idle...it's not a worry. Also not just syncing the carbs but properly setting the low speed screws can also smooth the idle.
  15. jasonm.
    hey guys. ..wow this thread is still active. I finally got to putting mine in. I have a sealed battery that always has 12.8v even after sitting a week. With the new R/R now, The lights are slightly brighter and the flashers are faster. I have been an electronic tech for 30 years. So I wired into the harness where the OEM R/R was. BUT upgraded the wires to the R/R using double 12awg for + and -. Now, I did this because the Schematic and my ohm meter confirmed the resistance ZERO from 2 reds at regulator connector to battery (+) and 2 blacks to battery ground(-). Thus I am connected to the battery. ANd did not need to add a fuse as I am using the OEM location. So, I really do not understand the reason for the "connect to batttery". I could not view the link showing or stating why the manufacturer said to connect to battery. MAybe for those running a lot of load to protect the harness. My runnning voltage on the road is 14.3v@ 2500rpm or so, even with driving light on. Or maybe in case there are wiring harness issues aka bad connections. This way , they may be avoided. If someone knows something ...please reply. But, idle voltages varies a bit. As cold start in the morning shows 13.8v off choke idling 900 - 1000rpm. Go up to 1300 = 14.0v.... Then later on after a long ride, drops to approx. 13.6v at 1050rpm idle. Don't know exactly why it drops? Is this a smart R/R like a battery tender...? But looking at snaggletooths posts...I suspect NOT. Maybe the harness gets warm? I know warm wires have slightly less conduction than cold( maybe stator)? Lastly I put the R/R in the lower left fairing intake VENT behind the chrome grill (stock is black). Fits nice...held w/quality velcro to eliminate any shaking. Yet can be removed in 15 minutes.
  16. jasonm.
    my stock '87 Venture posted 93 + at the rear wheel @63,000 miles on it...before the ethanol crap was added. Fact is the 1st gen. 1300 was rated rear wheel on the cert. of origin...98hp RWHP. At that time, saying 110hp crank sends up red flags to insurance companies. Even on a touring bike. Now w/ethanol...mine hits just below 90hp. I can get it to close to 100hp. with careful jetting and carb work.. But I am not driving at full throttle all day. Fact is...4 valve 4 cylinders have a far wider power band than any big V-twin. AKA- flexible. I can ride in 5th gear anywhere it's flat about 38mph....and it goes when asked. And any hill at 45mph and hit the gas.And it goes smoothly.The term fleible is really what's so good about this basic engine design, Venture, Vmax, RSV etc. So comparison mean nothing till you ride 2 bikes back to back. The you learn to appreciate what WE have.
  17. jasonm.
    one problem...I do not have resistor spark plugs in my bike. Seems that is a major noise source in the intercom if you do not use them. I do not care now, because I rarely ride with a passenger. Some day soon I will start using Iridium plugs.
  18. jasonm.
    I had Venoms for years. ANd my front is Venom,...but with the cracking issue NOW the rear is Michelin. Now my front has a small crack, 1 inch long , only 1 year old! But not big enough to get changed out. Avon said...when it's crack as thick as a credit card...send us a picture. The Michelin is NOT an actual 140 on my '87. It measures a 130 actually. Yet is correct height. Handles good very stable yet corners smooth and no rfear of dragging hard bits. Although I seem to have to air it up evry 3 weeks 1 psi . The Venoms never needed air....
  19. jasonm.
    took a test ride w/mosfet installed. Yes, voltage is higher after start up and all RPMs. Just above idle (1300rpm) it's 14v. And @2500rpm or so it's 14.3v. I have a sealed battery which helps too and a few accessory lights always on. I did NOT wire directly to the battery. I removed the R/R connector from the harness and wired directly into the two reds and 2 blacks because my ohm meter says these are directly to the battery, measured zero ohms. Solder and heat shrink of course. The signals flash faster and lights are slightly brighter. Odd thing is, once I did many miles, the low speed voltage , under 2000rpm had dropped slightly to about 13.6v. But the 14.3 always came back when cruising along. Maybe this is a "smart regulator" and reduces the voltage when the battery is "up to charge". Like a battery tender does...? Does anyone know or have noticed similar results?
  20. jasonm.
    what you are hearing in your intercom. I believe is the IGNITION. aka- spark pluigs to some degree. Yes, I hear a whurr on my bike. Maybe it is the old R/R. I have not taken mine for a ride yet w/the new MOSFET installed. I will let you know. Also years ago J&M made a filter. That was just 2 capacitors to bleed off this hum/whurr. I have that filter. Did it help. Yes, but not much....as I have hearing like a dog. As for the terminal connectors I need. AS I may move the present location I am mounting it. I finally ordered from Eastern Beaver. Their shipping is reasonable and I got a whole new connector kit and spare terminals.
  21. jasonm.
    Bill, this MOSFET R/R applies to all bikes that it did not come stock. Maybe the latest Venture might use this from the factory. But this MOSFET R/R has only been around for about 3 years or so. The newer Vmax and R1 use it. I checked both sites you guys gave. neither show this item. Which I believe is a japanese design. Still searching...
  22. jasonm.
    Hi guys, I purchased two MOSFET R/R's a while back in the group buy along w/the weather proof connectors. Put one R/R on my '83 Vison. It's great. Now I am putting the other on my 87 Royale. Well, I buggered up one of the metal terminals that are to be used w/OEM weather proof connector. Seems after 30 years in electronics I still make mistakes. I like the weather proof connectors. I checked Eastern Beaver electrics for the parts. I only need a $.59 metal terminal. But, they have a $20 minimum order. Again, I want to use the weather proof connector assembly. So, does anyone have spare metal ternimals for this connector type or knows where to get them w/o a $20 min. order? Thanks in advance...Jason
  23. jasonm.
    On touring bikes , my standard rule for rear tires...since I weigh just under 200#. Solo run approx. 10% under max on the sidewall. Two up...run max. Front run 20% under max all the time. Got 15k+ out of the rear like this. and 18k out of the front.Running max solo is simply dangerous! because you are reducing the contact area ALL the time.
  24. jasonm.
    I got mine out easily a month ago. I only removed battery box, front head shroud(easily removes to the riight), and lowers. Rest of fairing stayed. I have special 1/4" size phillips tips. Like for a cordless screwdriver...you need a #3 that have grooves cut in them. These micro grooves hold and allow you to apply more torque. Lowes and Sears sells them. NOW use a 1/4" drive socket wrench.OR You can use a 3/8" drive wrench w/adapter. and short ext. w/1/4 inch socket to hold the bit. A flash light and mirror and your fingers helps you locate the right side screw. Now get that animal lined up and push up as you turn CCW...it will come out. Do the same on the left...which is easier to see.
  25. jasonm.
    cleaning RAD. No pressure washer.... remove grill, use a tooth brush and water
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