Jump to content

jasonm.

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    899

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    did you mix up the washer and the spacer that goes against the wheel bearing at the seal ?
  2. jasonm.
    Goose, I have been using NGK on my bike for 20+ years. Putting 20k on a set of plugs was no issue until NOW~! I changed them a few yesrs ago and odd things started happening. Again...something has changed. The bad start issue or like what I had, a sparking out of the cap that was partly caused by the spark plugs being electrically "OPEN" in their respective cores. Thus the coil had to have enough energy to jump two gaps. If you do not understand electrical testing of these...well, you may not understand. BUt now I truly cannot trust the newer NGKs. None of this is fiction. In fact the parts store had to take the resistor bad ones back because they failed in 2 months. I have the bad non-resistor plugs to prove it. Just because others have the same set up does not mean it's the best. Especially when the manufacturer does not tell you something has changed how they are made. Especially quality control. Maybe they are now made in China? What would you say to that? How many here have tested their spark plugs with a multimeter??? None, I suppose. Snaggletooth needs to "electrically" test his spark plugs. Clean them anduse a multimeter . The non-resistor type should read basically ZERO ohms. Resistor types should read 4to 5k ohms. Either that or his carbs are not set good. ANd he's fudging up the spark plugs in some way while putting on the miles....NGK has a tech support line. I may call them to let them know about the junk they are selling. I have spoken with them before on other things.
  3. jasonm.
    guess it was a temp. issue. All is good now...
  4. jasonm.
    Listen, I have the same non-resistor plugs you have DP8EA-9. Guess what 3 out 4, the internals went to hell at 3k miles. Why did I buy these???>...because the NGK restistor types 3 years ago did the same thing. Even after cleaning....They all are electrically OPEN... infinite resistance when tested= JUNK. I am now running 15 year old DPR8EA-9's(saved) NGKs w/25k on them. I used to change them every 20kmiles. Yah 20K because they always came out clean and working. All these old ones read 4k ohms.And work perfectly. NGK clearly has NOW changed something in manufacturing. They are basically NOW crap or turn to junk quickly! AKA fishing sinker.... ANd as others seem to be pointing out. Getting the bike EGA'd makes things better. But seriously ...don't trust NGK. Remove the spark plugs, clean them and use a multimeter "tip to top reading". I bet you get a surprise like what happened to me. After 30 years in electronics, I have never seen such a simple thing made so poorly. If someone does not believe me. I will be happy to send you one of the bad spark plugs to test yourself....no charge.
  5. jasonm.
    cannot post replies on any forum thread. AM I BEING PUNISHED? Cursor never pops up. But can post this new thread>>>
  6. jasonm.
    Glad to hear another being kept alive. Hope you have the valve tool. It's a must have...
  7. jasonm.
    Just to follow up . I have ridden both the 83 and 86 Aspencades. Both have notchier transmissions than my 87VR. But really you need to figure out how the revs match speed. I personally shift quick. Doing all at the same time clutch in , shift up gas off all for a split second. I do not wait for the gears to engage. Because they always do. Then let the clutch out and gas it lightly at the same time. The venture has more power and little gas is needed to increase speed after shifting. It's hard to describe , BUT Litterally...you could call me "twitch", if you saw me shifting. Take the bike out solo...more , and get used to all the mechanicals and how the bike responds...
  8. jasonm.
    shifting any bike varies. Depends on the engine's tune. These engines drop revs quickly and also rev quickly. Compared to a GoldWing in the 80's. If you shift quickly with throttle and clutch it usually results in smooth shifts. Otherwise, Do it lazy and not simultaneously(clutch, shift, throttle)...yes, it won'.t be smooth. Aka, clunk, bump, jerk...zoom. Is the result.
  9. jasonm.
    how old is the battery? I had a 3 year old well kept(charged monthly) standard WalMart battery that was poor when compared to a 9 year old high quality sealed battery which is still good today in my bike. Just because you charged a battery does not mean it's good. If the bike sits for 3 or so days. ignition OFF. The voltage on a meter should be 12.6v or better. Mine always reads 12.8 or better. I ride once a week....that's where it always is before starting before my weekly ride.
  10. jasonm.
    I think I found the cause. 1st I need to say it appears to be 2 things that are causing my issues. The 1st previously reported, was bad caps and plugs. 2nd- since the issue stayed on #2. I decided to check the fuel level. Could the level change in the last 3k miles from last year's work? I removed the air box. And using my "mini level" on the carb ...shimmed the centerstand till things were perfectly level. The bodies of the carbs were marked by me previously. Checked this time again and again ....Results #2 fuel level was 4+mm higher than it should be. The bad caps and plugs just just made this high level fouling issue show sooner, rather than later. As we all know, a warm engine runs richer...as the pistons/rings seal vs. a cold engine. So when hot...it was borderline gas fouling/flooding. Even with the idle mixture screw closed it still arced to the head..too much gas is too much gas. At least that is my take on it. Some may say 4mm is not much. Well if that was the case. Then, Why is the manual so specific on these settings? TO those of you who suggested...carbs. You were right. Me, with my idea, "bad coils", I was wrong but close. It was caps and spark plugs. That was a waste of time changing coils. As any coil that can spark from cap to head must not be bad. I should have followed my own rule. "check the simplest thing first" aka caps and spark plugs. And I will also remember, "just because it was good last year does not mean it's good now"...especially carbs and electrics. I will be ordering some parts and getting this done ASAP. I will let you know how it goes. Round #4 on the carbs. Unless someone knows of something I missed?
  11. jasonm.
    hello, I do not see attachment. I had my tranny apart due to a bad bearing. The only shims are by the LARGE bevel gear bearing.ANd they do not wear because of a retaining plate. Everything else is thrust washers. I need to see attachment to confirm we are talking about the same thing?
  12. jasonm.
    the front forks should not cause the rear shock to lose air. There is a seperation valve. Otherwise whatever you set the rear would also be in the front. So if they both are losing air. It's a hose/system issue(s) for sure. ALso the rear is an air bladder on top of a spring. It's rubber...now old rubber. Like an old tire air evenually gets through. Me I just top up the rear air once a month 1 or 2 psi. I lose more checking it than it is really losing.
  13. jasonm.
    not all yamahas are made the same. Venture , vmax, FJR have gear oil in there. Kept by a special flex seal and no coupling spline of that design.
  14. jasonm.
    DP8EA9 non-resistor....should never be an OPEN circuit! It's supposed to be a solid core design. And the caps good for a few thousand miles then junk. I broke them open to find a BLACK coating on the inside between the spring and stud assembly. That is if you have broken one open you'd understand. That black ain't supposed to be there. Also had a resistor plug go bad purchased at the same time DPR8EA9. I am saying things are not made the same like I have had for the past 35 years from NGK. I think China has been making these with recycled lead. I just put iridium NGK plugs in the car 4 months ago...here we go again...
  15. jasonm.
    Hi Guys, I have had my Venture Royale since 1989. Done all the maint myself...everything. I have been an electronics tech for 30+ years. Last year I replaced spark plugs, spark plug caps with all NGK, along with new 7mm hypolon copper wires. I had always used NGK spark plugs since the begining. In fact I only changed spark plugs every 20k miles or so. They were that good, and my bike tuned that well. This year I have been having "misfire" issues at idle. I finally checked the spark plug caps , wires and spark plugs. 3 spark plug caps measured OPEN(should be 5k ohms) on my digital meter and cleaned all spark plugs...3 spark plugs also open. I use non-resistor type which should read almost zero ohms. I suspect These items are NOT made in Japan or they have changed their construction of these items. These above items only had 3k miles on them. Now I have the OEM parts back in. NGK...Junk I say. Don't get stuck like me.
  16. jasonm.
    I am using the 7mm, 19 strand wire you see in the Dennis Kirk catalog. My local Auto store carries it. Very good stuff. Caps...the ones you show are the ones that went bad on me. I had 2 straights in back and 1 angled at front go bad. a 4th was borderline bad. Thanks for the offer...but no thanks. I never buying NGK anything again. DAMN...I just put NGK plugs in the wife's car 2 months ago....oh boy. Now I did the test w/TCI on air box. No difference. Although I now know it's seems to be just the #2 LF that's arcing. This was one with a bad cap and bad spark plug. Could have damaged the coil. AS FAR AS CONTACT...I AM ABSOLUTELY SURE EVERYTHING WAS INSTALLED TO PERFECTION. This is something I never rush. PLUS I use an OHM METER AFTER EVERY CONNECTION. PRIMARY AND SECONDARY RESISTANCES. FYI-I had the same thing happen on my last car. And the coil had split open, ... But at least that was obvious with arcing right out the coil. So this is another change out...oh boy. UPDATE 8PM. 8/13 coill change for #2 did not fix it... So I either have something that has changed in the #2 carb causing it to be too rich and borderline gas fouling and the spark has to go somewhere, thus to the head or............?????????? FYI, you cannot read spark plug when it's just idling. There is not enough mixture to make an obvious color change.
  17. jasonm.
    All spark plug wires are new. And I do not get a jolt when touching them.Note: these listed below are all NGK items. Last night I find 2 non-resistor spark plugs "open" (yes they are cleaned). and they should read close to zero.. I found also 2 bad caps also NGK. These bad caps read "open" instead of 5k on the ohm meter too. I busted them open to see why. Turns out they are not air tight and I think a slight bit of sopemthing got in and turned the stud the wire connects to...but inside the sealed CAP's brass BLACK. This is something internal...nothing that could be seen. My ohm meter again confirmed this was the cause of the OPEN circuit. NOW Replaced w/good used OEM items> But still same issue.It sparks horizontal directly to the head on the front two. Nice light show. There are no cracks in the "good" OEM caps. The OEMS are good because they are "rebuildable". Which I did. They all ohm out at 9 to 10k ohms. The wires are new. Everything was "ohmed out". Makes me really angry As they only 1 year old...all items. Maybe the bad caps etc. has caused the ignitor to be bad when hot? I am relocating TCI it today to the top of the airbox.to see if cool air helps. ANyone know of a better/other spark plug or CAPS , NOT NGK. I think Autolites are at most Auto stores..like ADvance Auto...?KEEP the ideas coming.
  18. jasonm.
    Last night took the bike for a short ride after finishing changing coils and spark caps from crap NGK back to OEM. Last night, same problem...idle it enough to turn on the fan ...then it skips and in fact I could see the front caps both arcing...Then the bike died. Restarts but repeats the problem. I have many OEM Venture caps all test good and physically look good. So I changed caps again. No difference. FYI- I found all my NGK caps only a year old to fail the 5k ohm test on my meter. Yet my 20+ year old Venture caps to be good. I set the carbs to perfection last year. New float needles and set floats. I have had the carbs off 3 times. 1st bad needles( I have Sirius brand Canada needles), 2nd time set floats properly and third time- double check everything. In fact I set the floats "low" because the needles will "break in". Then had it EGA'd . Me and the EGA guy(John) did it together. It's my bike so I made the adjustments while we both read the PC screen. He has a $15k dyno EGA. Now I am at the idea either something has changed in the carbs...at least 2 of them Or the TCI is failing when warm(hot). I am going to temporarily relocate the TCI to top of air box. If that changes things then...I know the TCI is the issue. If no change...then it could still be either problem. Wish I had a spare test TCI ignitor. Got any other ideas? Jason
  19. jasonm.
    I might need one too.
  20. jasonm.
    It's not the carbs. As stated it idles perfect when cold...no choke, you can hear the cylinders fire one at a time. It's that smooth... and takes the gas instantly...when cold(no choke). If it was the carbs, it would hesitate, especially when cold. Plus the carbs were gone thru by me last year... new jets. None are cleaner than mine. I only run the choke for 20 seconds on very cold 1st starts. That's all. And had each carb/cylinder EGA set. New slides 10k ago. This is a HOT only issue. I did identify the cylinders with a timing light and the arcing was obvious as previously stated. Bkuhr, that's pretty much hat I was seeing on my scope. Yes the boots caps and wires are tight and properly in place. They are easy for me to put on. I do not have large hands. I use a good dielectric grease to prevent water and arcing issues on all wires. Just the outside of the wires. As this grease is an insulator. Last night, I removed the 2 right coils. Neither had any signs of outside cracking. Which is common. They bench tested cold good. BUt who's to say when hot? My spares only have cracks at the very outside edges where the screws hold them to the brackets. I hope they are good. Now I am trying to figure out whether to use coils closer to the UPPER or lower spec. for these? As higher resistance means usually more windings and more potential voltage on output. Or the lower spec. as these usually need less time to reach their discharge? If this does not fix it...then it's the ignitor. Oh joy...
  21. jasonm.
    Seems I have found the trick for coil removal. 1st. remove the front coil. There is a screw that is starirng right at you and easilly comes out. Then using a good #3 phillips bit and a 1/4 wrench it's taped to...wiggle coil and carefully turn that phillips out. Then proceed to the rear w/1/4" socket and #3 phill taped in and assorted wobbles and extensions. NOW I just need to find the ONE phillips I dropped in the engine somewhere. I will use allens for remounting. Hope this solves skipping idle. Dingy, I have, what I hope are good spares to try.Thanks...
  22. jasonm.
    I am 80% sure it's one or both right coils are weak. I did a test by idling the bike for quite a while. Then with the engine hot and the fan and brakes on. The reserve power of the battery is somewhat depleated. And the idle voltage would be 12.7v. w/fan on then 13v or so with fan off. And the voltage would slowly climb to replenish the battery. Turn the throttle to 1400rpm = 14.3 volts. I do have a good sealed battery that starts the bike hot or cold without issue. Thusly, It would appear the weak , heat soaked coil(s) need closer to 13v to fire good. When not heat soaked there appears to be no issue. Or when the voltage is well up above 13v. Remember this is strictly idle. Yes, I have the new Mosfet R/R. But that does not do miracles for a normally idling bike with brakes and fan on. As the coils are on a Bracket. That makes access to their individual mount screws seemingly impossible. And the bracket/frame bolts no easier. SO, does anyone know a shortcut to safely and efficiently remove the RIGHT side coils w/o removing the entire fairing ??? Or maybe there is a way by removing just the right side fairing pieces? Please no sawz-all jokes...
  23. jasonm.
    Good Idea. Yes, I have a scope...quite old. But my inductive lead, last time was weak. Maybe the standard lead will show me something? Also, Since I posted this. I have been trying to remove the coils. I have some perfect looking spares. DAMN...it's not easy. It would seem that I need to disassemble the WHOLE fairing. Does anyone know a short-cut to replacing the coils ? I just need to do the right side. Also, mentioned before... I have sparking right thru the caps...even new caps and new spark plugs. So either the spark plug caps are acting like a capacitor charging up. But not enough to jump the spark plug under compression...AKA weak spark/coil.....or...??????
  24. jasonm.
    1st ...I have had my 87 Royale for 20+ years. And done many Mods and work. I have 30 years as an electronic tech. But I have been having this HOT idle skip. EX: been riding on a hot day. Get off the hiway to my house. Pull up the driveway. Open the garage and the idle starts missing. I can see the tach dipping..I hear the spark plug caps arcing and can see it on the right side caps(3,4) sparks to the head. AH, I replace the caps and wires to ALL coils. Stiill no help when hot. AND if I rev the bike the issue goes away for a 30 seconds then returns. I ohm out the pick up coils. All good. Primary side of the ignition coils.. test good even when HOT...OUCH. I replaced intake o-rings AND We can rule out the carbs because I had the bike EGA'd ...it's not rich... running 13.5:1 a/f @ 1000rpm. CHanged to non-resistor spark plugs vs. resistor type...no difference. Since the bike can idle smooth on first start of the day w/o choke...Thus , I think a hotter range plug will not fix this. As a cold engine is more difficult to ignite fuel. Also, I do not see a "rev limiter" wire in the schematics. Typically from the tach to ignitor. As this has been a documented problem on my Yamaha Vision. Again, if I increase revs it's good for as hort few seconds. I am thinking it the ignitor getting heat soaked OR secondary side of the 2 right coils are bad...BUT then again, reving it shiould not temp. make it run good. Any experience out there with an issue like this???
  25. jasonm.
    MKII ...you mean 86-93...yes...?
×
×
  • Create New...