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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    Also one more thing I need confirmation on. OUR H4 bulbs are the same as the automotive 9004...YES?..... ALso , what is this I read on the Sylvania's site. Bulbs dim 20% over time??? How much time? I have never really noticed a change in brightness in my 6 year old car's lights also same type H4 my Venture has w/original bulbs. They still blind me when the wife drives up the driveway. ...Maybe "cheap" bulbs dim over time.
  2. jasonm.
    Semis passing you. Simply...your speedometer is very optomistic.As with most bikes. But your mileage is good ...considering you are possibly overloading your bike. EX: Mine 85-90mph constant across Nebraska pulling a trailer w/gear=#200# = 28mpg. Crossed the state in about 7 hours w/stops.ALL Your MPGS are the same as mine. So we are both in the "same boat". But I have never seen 50mpg in the 20+ years I have owned this 87VR 20= yrs. Guess it's the bigger carbs and a true 90+hp at the rear wheel.
  3. jasonm.
    WOW...lots of helpful info here. Guess it's either Sylvania ULTRA or PIA Extreme white anti-vibe. Just to do a price compare. I believe the Sylvanias are discounted all the time at Autozone , Advance Auto, and similar places. Thanks Guys
  4. jasonm.
    Trevor, what does that have to do with the price of tea in China?
  5. jasonm.
    that is CORRECT. Because the throttle plates(butterflies) are closed and thus drawing fuel mixture thru the idle jet system. Which is on the engine side of the throttle butterfly. Flow around the needle on these begins @2500rpm or so. But if your floats are way off...then it will draw fuel past the needle the second the throttle is opened. What people often smell when leaving a stop can be fuel levels too high in the bowls and a back draft when moving slow. Especially on a 1st gen . I replaced all my floats , float needles and $400+ in other carb parts this year. Quite a learning experience. Due to the ethanol fuels mine runs lean in the middle but not too lean(EGA said). But for some reason is rich past 6000rpm full throttle...even with new needle jets. ... But this is where I really do not spend much time anyway.
  6. jasonm.
    another quote- Check out the PIA H4. It's white and bright like the Silverstar Ultra. But, seem to give me more life than the Silverstar's I went through. (I usually buy the 2-pack off Amazon. Got 2 bikes.) Looking just now, I see PIA has a new series, Night Tech, for about the same pair price. Claims they have longer life too. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/PIAA-10704-Night-Tech-Upgrade/dp/B00544ZD86/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1323039292&sr=1-4]Amazon.com: PIAA 10704 Night Tech 60/55 Watt H4 Upgrade Bulb - Pair: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51m8E7gb6eL.@@AMEPARAM@@51m8E7gb6eL[/ame] another quote- Many of us here swear by the Sylvania Silverstar ULTRA - it is an excellent choice. Just be sure not to buy a normal Silverstar - it must be an ULTRA for the brightest light and extended bulb life in a high-vibration environment. Goose you appear to be saying...the Sylvanias do not last long. FYI- I have only ONCE had a bulb go bad since 1980 , when Quartz - halogens became common on bkes. Anyone else had Sylvania's die early ? Guess the ULTRA is the only safe Sylvania...? Oh Sylvania has another ZXE or something like that?
  7. jasonm.
    I have had my Venture for 20+ years and 70+k miles.With both hands on the handlebars and tires properly inflated.... Just letting off the throttle should not cause a severe wobble. UNLESS your front steering bearings or swingarm bearings are worn out. Tightening the front steering bearings may only be a bandaid on bearings that need replacing. ALSO there are large "allen" FRAME bolts on the right side of the frame that should be loosened and retorqued per the service manual. I have seen these large allen bolts fall out. FYI- loctite is needed. How many out there have removed the swing arm and regreased the bearings? Also checking front ahd rear wheel bearings is another thing to check. Motorcycles require 5 times the maintanance hours than cars. If you want to just "handle it"...not fix it. I have found that 100mph wobbles on shaft drive bikes...lightly draggging the rear brake and lightly hold the gas "on" then gradually letting off the gas. But I have delinked brakes. Other times I have gassed it hard...also removing the wobble. But this 100mph+ is dfferent set of cirumstances that you are describing. Note : it's not hapened since my new front steering bearing have been installed @75k miles. Also you do not state how many miles on your bike. Many do not want to change out the bearings and just tighten them. It's a PIA...Lastly try setting the rear shock DAMPER adjust to #3 or #4 for best control...1 &2 are too light for even my 185# butt.
  8. jasonm.
    shimming needles will NOT fix a rich idle issue. Rich idle has two common internal carb causes that happen slowly . 1)float/fuel level too high and (2)leaking choke plungers. Choke plunger issue is due to today's ethanol causes corrosion(water) in the plunger's aluminum cylinder assy. and results in poor sealing. Floats go bad also from the ethanol attracting water. Our plastic floats do not like water.Which causes them to soften and sink. I have seen these issues. I solved my rich issues after resolving these two causes. Regarding MPGs where you live is important. I live in a very hilly area. 20%+ grades are commom on every road, every mile. There is no such thing as a Flat & level around me. FYI, I have been to most every U.S. state. So area around the great likes would likely cause my MPGS to jump up.
  9. jasonm.
    32mpg @ 80+mph is not poor. Also there are many variables...weight of you and how you are loaded? is your rear tire inflated correctly- aka near max for high speed riding? 48mpg is not a typical high. Most see 40mpg or so at speeds 65mph or less trolling along in 5th gear back roads. I suspect Snaggletoooth has shimmed his needles...to a very lean setting. I get 35-37mpg at the same 75mph+ speeds...aka always above 75mph for long periods. But you should never get below 30mpg unless pulling a trailer. 1st-Try a back road ride keeping it in 5th whenever the speeds are 45-65mph. Then you should see an easy 40+mpg. If not, then shimming the needles to compensate for worn needle jets may help, does help. Do a search for "shimming" or shims.
  10. jasonm.
    10 years ago I put in a Xenon bulb. It was slightly better than stock. I am sticking w/ 55/60watt- NOT changing wattage. Many manufactures claim better / whiter light output. BUt I find some of this to be just advertising hype. So , what if any 55/60 bulb have any of you used that made an Obvious or dramatic difference in lighting up the road ? No- I am NOT changing to HID. I am only interested in doing a simple change.
  11. jasonm.
    yes, many Yamaha rear rotors are 282 size. Alsoo the right and left are different...that's why there are 2 different part #'s. If you need a great 282 rotor. I happen to have an EBC rotor w/less and 1000 miles on it. It does not have the same slotted design as OEM. It is simply drilled. If you do not delink the brakes this would help you. FYI- right rotor is blued because the prvious owner also did not like the linked prakes. Thuis always uling the "hand brake". And the linked system has less "feedback".
  12. jasonm.
    if you have the latest December 2011 MCN. Downtime files has my letter. Seems he does not have a "for sure" answer to my question. I did have an issue with #2 carb, which is now fixed. But that does not explain why all the NGK caps and spark plugs failed. He thought maybe oil got into the caps. FYI- No, that's not it. I truly believe NGK is now making junk(which I have stated before). And think about it. OEM caps are roughly $25-$40, NGK $4. So you get what you pay for in this case. I have a total of 6 or more bad spark plugs from NGK in the last 3 years resistor and non-resistor. Remember the spark plug is simply an extension of the wire connected to the engine's coil for spark to jump in a hostile environment. I NOW have changed the caps back to OEM(10k ohm) and spark plugs to Denso iridiums. Plus all my carbs set up on low speed screws at 2.5 ccw +/- a quarter turn connected to EGA . 13.6:1 at idle. And were not rich when tested on load. ...cheers:)
  13. jasonm.
    5/8 size masters are very common and what most dual disc set ups use. 5/8 is bigger and have a good leverage factor. I have a 5/8 from an YZF1000. Lever angle an all matched perfectly
  14. jasonm.
    I believe there is an O-ring in the center of the engine where the breather (PCV) hoses come up. I hear that when the o-ring fails or begins to fail...they can send out quite a bit of oil directly to the air box up those hoses. And the bike will smoke a lot. Maybe this o-ring is failing. I think Skydoc may know more about this possibility. Also, I hope you are checking the oil on the center stand and relatively level.
  15. jasonm.
    NGK caps are sealed. How the heck did you replace the resistors on NGKS??? You can remove the resistors on the OEM caps. Replace w/5/32" brass rod = zero resistance. As to what failed.>>>I found this when I when cracked them open. Internally they are made with dissimilar metals and brass had turned BLACK. Actually had a coating that needed to be scraped from where the spring meets the wire screw stud ...this was acting like an insulation. ALSO an FYI, dielectric grease is an INSULATOR. After 30 years in electronis I can say... It does NOT help contact. Many people do not look up "dielectric" in the dictionary. And thus have issues. Don't go too crazy with it on metal things that need contact. I only use it on the OUTSIDE of the plug wires to prevent water getting in. FYI- my caps took a year & 3k miles to fail... NOW I have my OEM caps on w/Iridium Denso plugs part IX24B. But want to go to a rubber boot design. I agree it will be tough to get anywhere near the OEM 10k resistance with wires. But 5k...if possible I would do. I think the tougher thing will be to find rubber boots that fit properly. Maybe there is a car that used similar small spark plugs...long ago? That link is good. Stating to stay away from Automotive type wires. Something to think about.
  16. jasonm.
    I know I am chiming in late. BUT-I have had my carbs off about 5 times in 3 years. Latest this week. Now mine are finally perfect. The first 2 times I hadn't set the floats correctly. Last time I found floats that were sinking due to age. If too high or sinking, the bike runs rich...which does not sound like your issue. Rich would require no choke and takes the gas at the slightest twist with massive increase in RPMS. Floats MUST be set with each carb PERFECTLY level. Using a mini-bubble level. Something many do not do. Yours sounds lean. Which is clear, since originally would only run on choke. Is every carb getting gas? A float needle stuck closed is rare...but happens.But there are no short cuts here for carbs. Did you actually look through the pilot gas jet? Did you soak it in commercial carb cleaner? Did you replace ALL inside rubber plugs and needle jet o-rings and gaskets? The total of these parts alone is about $100. So if you have not spent any money on parts...you have not done yourself any favors. Here's a link..need parts 34,36, 46, 48 for basic servicing and possibly jets and bowl o-rings. I have ordered many parts from this site. They are good.It's a tedious job. http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=8391&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=1987&fveh=224
  17. jasonm.
    do you have the Yami manual, not hayne, not clymer? it shows the location somewhere. I had to do tranny work. I honestly do not remember if what you are looking for...easy access, is doable. But the Manual from yamaha will show what's accessable. .......IMHO- Lastly my dowl pins we fine after 70k +. These wear due to lack of oil changes or wrong type of oil. Or maybe constant shifting.
  18. jasonm.
    My original caps did not fail internally. But had oxidized from age. And due to the high cost of the OEM caps. I replaced them with NGK caps and new copper core wires. NOW-After having ALL my NGK replacement caps fail internally with little mielage on them. Which I posted on another thread. FYI- This will happen to them all. They are junk. NOW, I am wondering if anyone has found 7mm graphite or other wires with RUBBER caps like older cars use...that fit properly on our small (in automobile terms) spark plugs??? I know we are to have some resistance in the wires or caps....thus graphite type is my 1st thought.
  19. jasonm.
    the rectangular black thing with red wire to the right of the five fuses... is a filter from Yamaha. The rectangular fuse box in front of the battery is for the CB, cassette and radio and something else I don't remember. Maybe the CLASS system........AND Thats one big ass wire I see at the arrow...maybe for starter...
  20. jasonm.
    Dingy, you are missing the measurement. There is a number on the outside of the rim. That number is the BEAD mounting width. '83 Venture had 2.15" BUT '84 and on years went to 2.5" because of less than ideal handling with the 120 tire on a 2.15" rim. Some know this as the wobble in front. The 2.15 rim made this issue worse than the 2.5 rim, depending on tires. If you are running an '83 rim originally. Then my posts mean little. Then you will not notice a difference from what you are used to. But Yamaha changed to 2.5" for valid reasons. I have had my '87 for 20+ years. But I had an '83 prior. There is a difference in handling from the '84's I had ridden while owning my '83... that I could feel when friends switched bikes...back in the 80's.
  21. jasonm.
    check that rim size. I thought Vmax used a 2.15 wide rim...IE...rated for a 110 size tire not 120 tire. Using a 120 tire on a 2.15 rim will not help stability.
  22. jasonm.
    For the lower lens . 20 years ago...I found a "moving" LED type light. 6 LEDs and the lights moving...like "NightRider"...remember. Comes on when the brakes are applied. It's a simple circuit board that I just cut the black plastic back of the lens assy and plastic weldered it in. But for absolute safety the new LEDs are the best
  23. jasonm.
    I have to disagree...14mm will not move 2 sets or 4 piston calipers to maximum potential quickly when needed. Meaning the lever may pull right to the grip. Maybe they used 14mm for a while on the early R1's . But I believe they quickly changed to the standard 5/8". I tried with the stock 14mm...w/ss lines...It was poor till I put in 5/8" bore master. My master came from an early YZF1000. The lever cannot get within 1.0" of the grip. Meaning I will not mash my remaining fingers against the grip when doing 2 finger stop. And the lever is not hard to pull ...it's smooth and linear. Lastly...the 1300 bleeder from '86-93 makes a world of difference bleeding the brakes the OEM set up. W/O it...you have to remove the left caliper from the fork. Raise it higher than the triple tree. Place a wedge between the pads and have one or to friends help with the bleeding.
  24. jasonm.
    going more than 2k on dino oil has been proven in tests to not be good. As dino 20w50 is thinned to 20w30 by 2k miles on these tranny in engine JAP bikes. Meaning it's high temp protecion is weak. As where the Amsoils and Mobil1 oils stay 20w50 past 2k miles. I change mine using Mobil1 20w50 at 2k or a bit past. This might explain why compression tests and dyno runs have not changed in 10 years on my bike even with messed up carbs...90+hp at the rear wheel. yes it's stock . Just because your 4k mile oil changes don't appear to do any harm...it's just a matter of accelerated wear that you have yet to feel.
  25. jasonm.
    here's the simplest way. REMOVE the lowers on the fairing. Remove the black plastic cover on the front head. The trick to the cover is remove out the right, tilting the cover front up and wiggle it out between the cams by #4 spark plug valley. Above that is ANOTHER shroud cover to keep heat off the TCI. 99% of the Ventures do NOT have the upper shroud placed properly. It literally is to rest against the frame under the steering stem. Once these covers are out use a small mirror to see the screws holding the TCI. THen use a GOOD #3 phillips bit on a 1/4" socket (taped in)..short extension...done!
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