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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    if you have the "screw ons" for the spark plugs that change end type from "stud" to "terminal"...you can use the Accel 3010 wires, as is, to test .
  2. jasonm.
    FYI- maybe if the fronts are bad...then it's time to move up to R1/R6 calipers...
  3. jasonm.
    FYI-replacement of the guide pins can cure this sometimes before it gets too bad. Yes, they are "guide pins" . But yhey also keep the pads from "floating" around. A part MOST do not change w/pads. Also a dab of high temp grease on end of pads backing plate like cars use can help some. But is not a cure. Since many say it just attracts dirt and the aluminum will still get "sanded down". Lucky for me I have spare calipers too. So this could also happen at the front?...they are the same basic calipers...
  4. jasonm.
    I agree and the OEM caps are cleanable. The only issue that cannot be fixed on OEM is if the resistoance is too high. Because the resistance goes UP as the resistor is shorter...go figure. So cleaning the resistor usually does not help....it hurts. So only clean w/#1500 or 2000 paper
  5. jasonm.
    FYI- EFI systems use a MUCH finer fuel filter because the injectors are EASILY clogged. ANd most of us have some rust in the tanks. So whatever 50psi fuel pump is used, it best have a 10 micron filter of some kind.
  6. jasonm.
    you do not lubricate the tach...
  7. jasonm.
    I also forgot to mention...I also recently have had bad spark plugs from NGK. At last count, 6 in the past 3 years(2 resistor, 4 non-resistor) . I switched to Denso iridium. If you don't believe ne. Maybe you could buy NGK iridium DPR8EIX-9. Which may be made better than their standard plugs.
  8. jasonm.
    no thanks:080402gudl_prv:
  9. jasonm.
    do not assume...just because the wires are old....making them bad. I did not change my wires till the bike had over 70k miles on it, 6 years ago. Honestly made no diff on how it ran. The OEM wires are good copper core wires. Often all you need to is cut the end at the cap back 1/4". The twist the cap back on. But 1st check the resistance of the cap. You said yours are "open". So findiong good ones are key. Also the spark plugs can go bad too. I also had many NGK spark plugs go bad. Blow out the area around the spark plug and remove the spark plugs. Clean the tips. A few strokes with fine(600) sandpaper is good. Spark plugs also are to be 5000 ohms. But can vary as much as 2000 ohms from this. EX: had Autolites vary from 3300 to 7200 ohms. Denso 5000-6500 ohms. NGKs are usually the best at being closest to 5000 ohms. But with so many recent failures w/NGK I have moved to Denso. Note: the coils on Ventures are known to crack, but can still function ...to a point. FYI- cracking is caused by the spark energy having no where ot go...due to the spark plugs or caps being bad. TYhis causes the coil to over heat. Which I have also seen on cars for the same reasons (aka bad wire assy).So, in your case the coils could also be suspect. So, from my experiences, the usual problems or causes are the caps or plugs. Then move on to the coils.
  10. jasonm.
    I have found the Gunk gallon basket to be great. BUT all gaskets and rubber MUST be removed. So- it's agreed..PineSol is a real good degreaser and quite safe. But does it desolve the VARNISH left by old gas in old carbs that have been sitting? As I have used Seafoam...which did nothing to varnish, after soaking for hours. I may just buy some PineSol and try it on some OLD carbs that a caked with varnish.
  11. jasonm.
    If the smell is there w/o the key on...then the issue is the petcock. If the smell is there ONLY when the key is on...I think the previous owner's carb rebuild did NOT include new "bowl o-ring gaskets" or the floats are too high and sometimes spitting out fuel @the overflow . On my 1st rebuild-After 20+ years I got away with not replacing bowl o-rings. But when setting the floats properly---a leak will show up. But the carbs must be observed on the "bench" connected to a fuel supply. I did finally replace bowl orings. THEY were not too expensive. It's not a fun thing. If you are going the take carbs out...they must be seperated into 2 banks...left and right. Then the leak can be found. If you wish to set the floats...a small 3 or 4" level makes this simpler. put the bank in a vise w/wood protecting blocks. Because the bowl has to be removed for each adjustment...Expect to take at least 30 minutes per float to set . Also get new float needles. YAMAHA needles are expensive because they come with the seats...which no one change. They are pressed in. K&L sells needles #18-8944...retailers sell them online too. There is also Sirius Carb in Canada. They have a kit with bowl gaskets and K&L needles. for a reasonable price. NOTE: K&L needle have different "retaining wire" that hold them in place on the float. I used a dental tool to properly put the needles in place. A jeweler's screwdriver will work. Patience
  12. jasonm.
    I also have an '87VR. I have run into the no spark issue due the caps...as described before. You need to go to a LOCAL not national parts store. Of the nation chans- NAPA may have the wire. IT'S ON A SPOOL "7mm Packard" is one brand. Not a set for specific cars. Sometimes power equipment shops may have the wire. Custom shops also shoul would have it for custom "hot rods", for the guys who make their own complete leads.But seriously...it's on a spool.They cut what you need. Do not use 8mm because it is resistive radio supression wire. These can have issues making a good contact at the coil.
  13. jasonm.
    Yes, I also cover my bike for overnight on trips....BUT think...if you are worried about someone stealing the whole bike or just parts? I had an alarm that sent a radio signal to me(receiver). It had 2 high sense pick ups glued to the frame. Then I removed it. It drained the battery a bit AND Who is going to steal a 30 year old Jap-dresser? If I am worried about things in the saddlebags...lock'em. The 2 little vinyl fairing bags...I simply remove sometimes. Put a sticker on the bike..."owner owns firearms and is trained to use them"...
  14. jasonm.
    The screw on filter has one important positive. YOU can PRIME it. I pour as much oil in as possible. But careful not too much that it comes out when I spin it on. I have had mine on for 20 years.
  15. jasonm.
    FIRST-NGK caps should have 5000 ohms. I personally had all 4 NGK caps on mine fail less than 2 years old...also infinite resistance. The OEM caps are much higher quality and the NEW price also high. You can get cheap NGKS again to get it running. Once running spend the money on OEMS caps. FYI- OEM caps are suppose to be 10k ohms. Do NOT use Automotive wires. 8mm will not properly fit the coils. Plus auto wires have the resistance built into the wires, rather than the caps. Plus auto-caps are not made for the "stud" contact like your NGK and OEMS. I see many new and old Venture coils on ebay with the spark caps and wires. Wires...a good Auto parts store will have the copper core type wire. Store by me sells "hypalon" 19 strand wire fore 36 cents / foot. It's good stuff. Dennis Kirk sells the same stuff for much more $$.
  16. jasonm.
    OEMs are worth the extra $. Unless you know who supplies the OEM. Most leaks after a new seal is installed...is because there is a nick in the tube that we not noticed during replacement or other defects in the tube surface. FYI- fork seals I believe are double lipped seals. FYI- do NOT use "leak proof" brand seals = junk.
  17. jasonm.
    FYI---this is not an "automatic leveling system" on these. Only Suzuki had such a system on the Cavalcade. Which to this day...is/was the most comfortable tourer ever made. Heck, they had adjustable air seats and built in highway boards for the driver. Yes, the solder joints go bad. Mine did.
  18. jasonm.
    NOW '87 VR= 78k....This bike had 56k 17 years ago before my son was born. As you might have gathered... I have since been very busy w/other stuff.
  19. jasonm.
    New TCI's---Could you wait till the spring...when I have some $$$ ...?....NO , needles do NOT need any shimming w/ OEM shape K&N filter. But you may need to slightly adjust the low speed screws out another 1/4 turn...MAYBE. Drive it 1st. Lastly, I will upset some here. But Seafoam is simply a very mild cleaner. It has no ability to desolve what we call , varnish. I have tested it on, open carbs, that were caked w/varnish. Did nothing. It's just a thicker WD40. That is weak when compared to Chevron Techron, Berryman's and other true cleaners/solvents. As you know WD40 is similar to Kerosene and will make your engine run hotter...if too much is used. People have melted spark plugs when using too much. Hotter engine exhaust can clean EGR valves on cars. Other than that, I find no use for it.
  20. jasonm.
    FYIs-the cross brace issue is only regarding OLD Vmax's. Also, I do not recommend Using the Fram 3950. They changed the design in the last few years. NOW, the INLET holes are tiny when compared to the older same part #. ANd the Walmart Supertech filters do not seat correctly on the adapter...aka too narrow. I ONLY use PURO 10193 AND BOSCH 3320 FILTERS. The types I use...both have been cut open. The bosch has a different media. Bosch looks like dark fibers. Puro looks like cardboard. Bosch has approx ~60 pleats, Puro has approx~ 50 pleats. I think PURO-Pure One and Bosch are the same filter. But have not cut open a PureOne as only use the "Classic".
  21. jasonm.
    Lowes sells Bosch brand 1/4" drive tips. These have little "teeth"(lines) for lack of a better word. That grip the screw. And when used on a virgin JIS screw...you tap it with a hammer". It GRIPs like someone glued it in there. ANd then you can use a 1/4 socket on a socket wrench. Remember to push hard onto the head when turning. Maybe w/all your possble weight. This has never failed me.
  22. jasonm.
    Just torque all case bolts to 7.2 ft/lbs = 86 in/lbs. Nice to have a good torque wrench...or 3 like me:080402gudl_prv: copper washer one too. I keep the same washer for 72k miles of oil changes...Finally, changed it for the heck of it while I also had that cover off. Changing the stator? if it ain't broke....Mine is original and looked like new when I did the starter clutch gear 5 years ago.
  23. jasonm.
    I truly like the throw away type. I have seen many "cleanable" filters with "porus brass" let too much thru for my liking. FYI- some are also quite good. There is one metal body type that claims nothing over 40 microns will get thru. Not sure how big that is? I also suggest ...clean your fuel tank. Drain it, remove fuel sender. Good rags soaked in WD40 and with a long screwdriver ot pipe, wipe up all the scale in the bottom of the tank.
  24. jasonm.
    The main reason radial calipers came to being. IS....they allow the calipers to be spaced radially away from the axle..DEPENDING on the size of rotors and tires installed. And it supposedly allows quicker wheel changes for racing. Functionally while riding...the difference is minute for you and me. Also when looking for rotors to fit the Venture...FYI- some yamaha rotors have an "offset". R1 rotors from '99-2003 will fit. Also Vmax from 1993-2006. R6 rotor fit too. But I believe some years they were thinner than others. Thus thin rotors ar not good on a 700#+ bike. After 2003 R1 changed to a 5 bolt design. ALSO Look for 2004 OR later FJR1300 rotors...these I believe are 320mm and are still 6 bolt design. Now that would be stopping power we need. I have been toying with this change from 282to 298mm. As making a bracket to hold the caliper farther away is simple. I have done this before.
  25. jasonm.
    I just triple checked...automotive 9003 is the same as OUR H4 bulbs. ALSO many car guys have had the silverstar ultras die quickly aka less than 6mos.. So that makes me lean towards PIA ext.wht. anti-vibe
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