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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    EBC makes rotors for the 1st gen Venture. I believe well under $200 ea. They are not stainless like the OEM but do stop my bike just fine.
  2. jasonm.
    puffing as you call it...is often the rear copper compression gaskets loose. sounds like..."poof pooof poooof" by the rear head area. while running- Remove side covers to confirm. Sometimes tightening the clamps helps enough 5mm allen wrench also lube the threads on that clamp before tightening...wd40 is good enough
  3. jasonm.
    it's very confusing when the WRONG verbage is used. The only needle in these carbs are the large needle in the slide assy. Something that does not need attaention when cleaning the carbs. The issue does sound simply to be the LOW speed screw adjustment. FYI- there are small o-rings on these screws. And they will not seal up once you adjust these...due to age. It's best to replace these tiny orings, then adjust. Dirt bike shops have them. But from yamaha you must but the whole screw assembly...not cheap. the parts are screw, spring, washer and o-ring in this order then installed on the screw. Use a dab or grease when putting the parts on the screw. Otherwise they will fall and you will hate yourself:fingers-crossed-emo As for plugs..I used the old "jet plugs". These are the ones inside the carb on the jet block. They are rubber and seal great. New ones are over $5 ea. That's why I used the old ones which were still in fair shape.
  4. jasonm.
    Frank...that info is ONLY was the front rim...2.15 vs. 2.50
  5. jasonm.
    In the picture....do I see a "weld" that holds the internal pipe in place ? Is that weld rusted?
  6. jasonm.
    FYI, I had my tranny apart years ago due to a failed bearing. No real damage. But while in there I saw that ALL dogs are undercut on the 1300 gears. YES ALL. I had no rounding of dogs at all nor any type of wear after 70k+ miles. Maybe it's also the way I shift? Also, the pins fall out because the shift drum is "wobbling"...aka the case is worn where it rotates. OR the "pawls" that rotate the drum are loose.
  7. jasonm.
    Slipping clutch...make sure the reservoiir is NOT full to the top. half full is required to allow for HEAT expansion. Also if past 60k on it...the plates just may be worn out. Also , stiff front can be many things. Simplest is the previous owner just put the wrong weight oil in. 10 or 15w is what most use. Leaking of course should be fixed with new seals and cleaning up any scratches. Heck you do not need oil on your brakes. Cracked plastic...Devcon Plastic Welder . I am speaking from 20+ years with mine.
  8. jasonm.
    Note: Ovverall The Royal star V4 engines share share same internal design as 1st gen except cams and tranny ratios, AND there is a weep hole..so this above, does not happen...unless the weep hole is clogged up. Which I have never seen. Although a really bad oil seal at the water pump could both leak out at weep and force some oil into the cooling system. But you have a better chance of hitting the lottery for $1million.
  9. jasonm.
    I also follow up with revving to 3000 and checking if it's still sync'd because WE do not ride at idle. There are bushings and linkages that wear.
  10. jasonm.
    you can rule out the petcock and hose from it because that hose always has pressure from the fuel in the tank when "on" or res. This leaves the carbs leaking or hose after the filter or filter. You said someone did the carbs?...I still think it's the carbs w/bad bowl gaskets. Pump to carb is 1/4"...filter to pump is 1/4 at pump and 5/16 at filter. Both ends of filter are 5/16". I suggest removing the air box. Disconnecting the fuel hose and Plugging and clamping it . Then turn on the igniton to find the leak. No leak..it's the carbs
  11. jasonm.
    starter clutches loosening up are rare but do happen. The holes on the rotor can be redrilled and tapped. But a drill press is needed. Glad people have spare parts. The bolts MUST be grade 12.9 w/red loctite and the ends "staked" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! if they do not say 12.9 do NOT use them. This issue was common on the Yamaha Vision which uses the same clutch but turns 10,000rpm and Yamaha did not loctite the bolts...UGH! Result was clunking that sounded like a bad con-rod..on the left side.
  12. jasonm.
    Nice P-H...looks like you used same parts I did on my upgrade. I actually was able to put a 5 blade unit directly where the glass type was with the same orientation. That 6 group accessory block I glued to the air box lid. But after working on he carbs...in / out again and again. I figured out I could put that six pack animal in the left side hidden in front of the radio"deep down" with relays. Yes the relays are in tight. So actually I guess you call it stealth even when the covers are removed. I will see if I can post a pic of it. Yes, I am an "electrical guy"
  13. jasonm.
    changing the neck bearings is NOT easy. As the fairing and bits are in the way. I would replace the fork oil to proper levels after doing the springs. Or maybe before. adding extra oil reduces air space in the fork and actually acts like you have stiffer springs. Try it. Personally I can change springs in one hour. But expect to take 8 hours+ to do the brearings....major disassmbly required. removing the old bearings is not so easy unless you have the absolute proper tools for the stem shaft for removal and install. It's tedious
  14. jasonm.
    what prompted you to get this pump? I guess your OEM died. Filters work best on the INPUT side. This will always protect the pump set up. Looks nice and small. I looked this up... PSI 2- 3.5 etc...which is more than the OEM 1 to 2psi
  15. jasonm.
    YES, that collar or race MUST be replaced too. I did not catch how many miles on the bike? FYI, that rear needle bearing is far stronger than a ball type bearing. But requires grease. What many do not know. That bearing can be greased at every tire change and should be. What you say? Yes, the needle bearing has the ability for coming out a mm or two. Then you take your finger and repeatedly try to get some high-temp water proof grease in the gap you just opening up toward the spacer. ALSO, put a lot of grease on the axle and splines. I replaced my needle bearing at 30k after damaging it when removing the ball bearing on the opposite side. Now it has about 50k on it and still tight when I got a new tire 2010...no radial play. Once you replace that bearing&collar along with a good amount of extra grease...you should be good. And grease the SHAFT splines that go into the universal. People say Honda "Moly60" from Honda 'cycle dealers is good for all splines including rear wheel hub.
  16. jasonm.
    I have owned enough Yamahas to know the listing you give is only for VIN info. Yes, it helps for what Year your bike is. But when going to the dealer for parts.The model designation uses a different Lettering than the VIN... EX. all models in 85 = "N", '86 = "S", , 87 = "T"...and they skip around as you can see. The Model # designation does not match the VIN letters you list. Yes those letters change on the VIN as you show. But yamaha shows the letters associated with models differently. You need to go to the Yamaha site for "Model designation". I have an '86 service manual for XVZ1300DS and DSC not "G". Your 1990 is an "A" model-XVZ1300DA or DAC(california). I suggest you look at the Yamaha parts before going to a dealer. It does help. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/myyamaha/prompt/L3Nwb3J0L3BhcnRzL2hvbWUuYXNweA==/Parts%20Catalog/starthere.aspx
  17. jasonm.
    Jim, clearly you have the power to do it. What you need when doing it is someone on the right side of the bike. YOU Grab the passenger handrail with your right hand. Place your right foot on the center stand "lever".Then get the stand down so BOTH feet of the stand are on the pavement. This requires you to push the bike away from you. Some find this a bit "unnerving". Once both feet are down. It's all technique. Remember your legs are 5 times stronger than your arms.MiCarl...also said the same... So your right leg pushes DOWN, you lean to the rear of the bike(or right) as you are standing and use your arms to steady and pull...but smooth and gently. Again---it's your legs doing more than half the work along with that lean. Do NOT use your waist or bend your back, keep back straight...as you can stress your back if done improperly. I always use my center stand I am 5'9" and 185. No massive muscle mass here. I wish I could figure out how to post a how to do video for this.
  18. jasonm.
    Sorry, .... Water does not have the same bouyancy as fuel. Also getting H2O into the carb is not sometihng I cannot recommend. Plus that "water idea"...the carb cannot be perfectly level is all respects while being held. You should always set these held in a vise as I have stated before. And setting these at 15.5mm is spec. But within a few years the height will rise. I always suggest 16.5mm below the "mark". It's only 1mm difference. But it's still years more from being out of spec. vs. 15.5...just my $.02
  19. jasonm.
    the nuts on the back are sliders, adjustable to accomodate plates from all countries and states. I suspect someone may have damaged then and replaced with standard nylocks or similar. Do as other stated. The 2 screws under thetail light to start and may need to loosen others
  20. jasonm.
    GaryZ has the best place to start. If any of the tests are not good. You either have a bad battery, stator, or reg/rect. Do you have a factory manual? Also check all connections at the battery. Note: the multi-connectors usually do NOT go bad unless the bike is stored outside. Always start with the simplest thing. That does not mean channge parts. But all major electrical parts can be checked before replacement.
  21. jasonm.
    you only need the Vin. if your frame sticker is missing below the clutch. Sticker has MFD. date. Obviously the "L" is the later '84s.I have studied the VIN I honestly have not found the VIN to be any help determining much. I believe there are letters in the VIN that differenciate model years. Maybe the Yamaha parts webb site show the VIN range with the differences?
  22. jasonm.
    D*MN! I just saw this. AND last week, I just picked up a parts Venture Royale with wicked low miles. Yes, I verified the miles a couple different ways. And it has spark but not running due to sitting. Actually sat more than you could believe. I cannot test the TCI from this bike till spring. Hope it satisfies all my needs...for parts:fingers-crossed-emo No more $$ in the piggy bank ... So, I am out.
  23. jasonm.
    ex. XVZ1300DSC....D= deluxe(royale), S= model Year '86, C= California model. Here's the ODDEST thing about 1984. They had both model year designations of K & L for 1984. Reason being they were selling '83 gold Royales as '84's because they added the rear fender extension and other minor changes that the original '83s did not have but were too late to title as 1983 models. FYI- 1983 is model "T" designation. Yes, I worked at a shop in 1984. I honestly do not know what the "2" at the end means? Other than a possible mid-year change of something.
  24. jasonm.
    Do NOT uise the line on the float bowl. The Float bowls can move 1-1.5 mm due to the bolt holes and affect the accuracy.The manual says use the line MARK on the side of the top area @diaphragm cap. USE IT! Carbs should be level.With the carbs held in a vice between wood blocks. Using a small 4" level, if you can find one. And measure level in multiple directions. I gather the G2 carbs are also using the drain for accurate adjust with a clear hose. Now as floats age , they lose bouyancy. So a standard internal measurement will sometimes not be perfect. GLad if this non-manual way works for some. I got all new floats end of last year. This is a tedious process. I set mine closer to the 16mm spec. As the floats never gain bouyancy.
  25. jasonm.
    WARNING WARNING you must use the supplied replacement spacer(part#3) for the "right side". Otherwise you will damage the fork bushings and can warp your rotor. I know this 1st hand. Lucky me the bushings did not get damaged. But I kept warping rotors. Turns out the ding dong dealer never put the replacement spacer in. So you MUST have the spacer or get the original "turned down". You have been warned.
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