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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. me... just having too much fun waking up the sleepy and delerious:sick:. Nice to know there are options regarding the tranny and rear drives...
  2. now I can reply...I'm using IE7 I think. This is a work/home PC. So I cannot change to IE8 till work tells me to....
  3. the reason I did not use the "glass" type. I can see thru the element, which is just one layer...thus I could not trust that type.
  4. another reason to use WD40
  5. Been happening for a week.I could not do ANY replies. Now today, it seems random...but only on this site. No particular thread. I finally was able to post this Thread.
  6. FYI, Our ventrues are old and unless you used a sealer, all fuel tanks have some rust. I searched for better filters too...I found the stock style paper filter is much better at getting the small bits out of the fuel system. Paper filters are denser and just simply better. If Napa and others make one that looks OEM and fits...great.
  7. Jeeez...people have to stop saying "use RTV" for repairs to diaphragms. ALL RTVs warn against using it in gasoline environments. Gas is a solvent that causes the RTV to just fall off. Always set my sync as stated below. This takes into the fact of the wear on the linkages. As for the uneven sync issue... First, who here rides at idle all day? 1st- you sync at idle, then raise the rpm to 3000...,check the sync ...has it changed some ?= normal, Change a lot?...there is something amiss. FYI, the vacuum levels will drop the more you open the throttle.
  8. I have to hit preview for this new thread post. But cannot do any "REPLIES" on other threads?
  9. I put EBC rotors on my '87 they are approx. 7mm thick like the 86-93 series. Calipers on bikes have 2 seals , dust and hydraulic. WD40 will not hurt the rubber DUST seal. Yes, during rebuild, the hydro seal should be lubed with brake fluid. I have done this WD40 many times...the seal does not swell ...it's just used as a cleaner. As brake fluid has NO detergents in it, and using BF won't get you far sometimes in simple cleaning that is needed.
  10. I thnk some guys needed to rejet. I do not remember if it was mains or pilots. But if lean on the bottom. Sometimes just a 1/2 ccw turn of the pilot screw can make a difference.
  11. people who say the 2nd gen is just as fast or quick as 1st gen...never really rode a 1st gen. As the since the 1st gen's have a hgher readline 7500 vs 6500, compression ratio, larger carbs, etc.Means MORE POWER. and supports what every 'cycle magazine that have tested it. Thus, Less than 80 rwhp. But still better than an H-D in acceleration. The YAmaha adds for RSV said 98ho is at the crank. But Yamamha was not going to tell you the 1st gens they replaced had 110hp at the crank. Right after the RSV came out, I spoke to the REPS from Yamaha who said just what you see here.They are realists. Anyone want to ride their RSV with me ..I can show them . Don't misunderstand, I like the RSV more compared to H-D any day.
  12. Assuming the caliper pistons were properly pushed back and did not lose a spacer. Then...I agree with Bob. AND Before changing pads. You should ALWAYS use a tooth brush and WD40 to clean the dust and muck that may be around the caliper pistons. THEN push pistons back. Now if you did not do this. Not to worry. Remove the caliper and pads...push on the brake lever...watch the pistons move out. If they are not coming out evenly. Use a small C-clamp w/1/4" plate steel to hold the non-sticky ones back as you press on the brake lever. Once one side pistons are moved out about 10mm to where you can see end of the "muck". Do the WD40 with tooth brush. I recommend exposing one side of piston(s) at a time. This 1/4" piece of flat steel works great to hold one(83-85) or 2 pistons(86-93) back Oh, don't forget the keep that steel in there or something to allow you to push the piston(s)back. wiuth that same c-clamp. Fyi, new pads will always have some drag. But with new rotors which are not grooved up...should be minimal.
  13. those will not fit ..."right out of the box". Because there is a 15- 20 degree bend after the chamber, in the stock Venture pipe to clear the bags. So you need to take some short pipe and do a bend.
  14. we do not have CDI..capacitor discharge ignitions. And that link is 2 coils w/2 outputs each, for an In-line 4 cylinder. Which only need 2 coils. We have 4 coils because of the V-4 design. Our coils are 3 ohms....with one output each.
  15. I have that rapid fix...but under another name..."Cyberfix". When using the "fix"...let the glue(liquid) really get into the plastic. It really is just a type of super glue. Which softens the plastic. Then after 10 seconds sprinkle the powder. It's good...But I recommend Devcon Plastic Welder for the strongest bond. Devcon...you are making plastic that thermally bonds. And after 30 minutes @70F you can sand it. Plus during the curing time...0-15 minutes you can mold it with "plastic wrap". Then peel the plastic wrap off as the Devcon gets warm. Devcon can get HOT...the less air the hotter it gets. So when molding and wrapping it...be aware it can bubble if totally covered. As the Devcon will NOT stick to plastic wrap but can get hot enough to melt it..that's a BOND! Lastly it must be done in an open, vented area.
  16. I know I have a magazine somewhere that has the 1st gen. gearing spec @redline. When I find it...I will copy it and post it. But reality hurts, especially when you are not going as fast as you think you are...
  17. FYI- I believe Drag Specialties made ALL of the Venture's chrome accessories for the 1st gens. . Generaly well made stuff.
  18. Avon Venom and Dunlop Elite 3 howl at the moon when you corner at 40 or so. I now have Michelin Commander on the back...very quiet. The noise from many tires are caused by the size of the water sipes and spacing. E3 and Venoms are similar is look and ...sound.
  19. glad to see another being brought back. Hey, those floor boards on the shifter side can cause issues. As the shifting shaft puts a lot of vertical force on the case and cases break at the hole where the shaft comes thru. !st lube the area with a spray grease. This never happens with the stock set up.
  20. the info you state is a mjority case. If the majority of the rides are at the temps given. Then this is why there is a drain plug....for oil changes. I never have run anything lighter than 10w40. Mainly because 10w30 can have the "BAD" friction modifiers. Summer should always be a 15w50 or 20w50 or 10w50 or 20w40 or 15w40. There are many here who prefer oine type or brand over another. Start with weight 1st, then decide the brand. I have used Mobil1 and Spectro in my bike for over 20 years. It still pushes more HP at the dyno than you'd expect...ya..90 or so
  21. even a 4th gear roll-on from 45mph, with an RSV is slower than my 1st gen '87 1300 in 5th, due to the lesser HP and higher gearing in 4th. When the RSV came out...I test road it many times. The Yamaha rep. was clear at saying both 4th and 5th are essentially over-drives because this is a "Harley like" bike. "Acceration was not the key to building it". Yamaha just want's to make a "better H--D. As proven by the 76 rwhp,where H-D even with their present 103" cube engines still don't push that hp. Yamaha just needs to put EFI on the Venture. Why would 21" rims make any difference? It's either geared a specific way or not. Charts are nice, but reality is what flies.
  22. Guys, 1st don't trust your speedo. Second, I have most of the magazine tests form WAY BACK. 5th was geared for approx 135 @ redline 4th was approx 110, and 3rd is 88mph at best. I do know if you are doing 3000rpm @ 54mph like me...then you are doing 18mph/ 1000 rpm...doing the math...says 18 x 7.5 = 135. Plus my dyno runs also confirmed these numbers as being pretty close. On the road, I have seen 7500 in 4th, and 6500+ in 5th. Given enough room, you can hit 7000 in 5th on a well tuned machine. Also I say approx., because slight difference in tire manufacturers do alter the gearing slightly. But these are the facts at redline for my '87 1300...I always believe my tach...speedo is just there to scare the simple-minded...
  23. did anyone answer the spacer question. I can only tell you that my '87 has from left to right--- on the right side of the wheel a spacer against the wheel bearing that sits within the seal, then the caliper holder...then washer(often lost) to protect the aluminum caliper bracket from the "stepped" axle. Note: there is a hardened washer under the nut on the left. So technically there is only ONE Spacer. Everything else are washers. ALSO, I don't have any spacers or washer between the swingarm and the caliper bracket. Had this bike for 95% of it's life...never seen anything on the swingarm
  24. never go cheap on tires. I found Dunlops to last good. But their handling to be only fair when compared to Avon or Michelin. The 404 is a cheaper version of the Elite II. I had elite II...hated them....especially the front caused wobbling. Rear Avons expect 10k-14k. Elites get 13k easy...404's don't expect more than 10k. The Elite3 is same as EliteII in many ways but with different tread pattern, similar to Avons. And do not compare an RSV to a 1st. gen on tire mileage. They use totally different sizes and significant difference in power and weight bias. Also check the max WEIGHT ratings of all these. The Venture is NOT a light bike. And much of the weight is on the rear wheel. They should be rated 77H or approx. 900# max on the sidewall. I can only tell you what I would do...I'd get the NEW Michelin Commander II $130 on line. Michelin claims mileage over 20k miles for these. FYI- Avon has cheapened the Venom. They used to be a 6 ply tire with a 4 ply sidewall. Now they are 5 ply with a 3 ply sidewall and the price has dropped because of this. Dennis Kirk has them Avons for $110 for rear 140/90-16.
  25. "spacers on the main jets"...say what? I think you mean spacers on the main jet needles...Also the pilot screws will need to be turned out quite a bit...total 3 to 4 ccw
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