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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    there is ONE possible try to fix it. Remove the hidges 1st. If it still don't line up. Then remove the aluminum trim. There are tiny screws holding the trim on. I suggest top, check then bottom. Then if things line up better...you need to CAREFULLY bent the trim "back" the way it belongs. It will be a PITA
  2. jasonm.
    I asked this before, but cannot find a reply. Is this mod simply ....put ...GEN.2 parts put in GEN.1 flywheel ??? Or is this clutch from some other Yamaha?
  3. jasonm.
    I agree with the above quote and I may burst some bubbles, because I have worked on many carbs. Took them apart and poured seafoam on the "yucky varnished bits". Results= zero cleaning ability for varnished carbs. I believe Seafoam is best as a gas preservative and anti-carbon or carbon removal tool. AKA- cools the pistons causing the carbon to flake off. So what may have happened with some of you was carbon on a valve and lack of compression from valve not seating You guys give it more credit than it deserves, just because it helped a problem. That's good for you. But, had you removed your carbs, seen what I describe and it's abilities or lack there of. You might have tried something else. I am glad your bike(s) are running "better". If you do think you have a "varnish" issue(clogged jet). Try Berrymans...it's the best. I have blasted it thru the pilot air jets a few times to save me over the years. Yes Berryman's has acetone, which is pretty strong stuff...but that's what you need sometimes. Remember anyone can claim their product can do something...no matter how SMALL that percentage is, as long as it is measurable. maybe it's .001 %.
  4. jasonm.
    that's a good start. But 4 turns out may be pointing to a bad intake manifold o-ring. I found the #3 I could turn 6 turns out and the idle keep going up. That was a sure sign of a vacuum leak. As the more CCW = richer. New O-ring and fixed. But the carbs have to be pulled out to replace the o-ring. Next best thing to my digital tach is a good sensitive vacuum guage. like mercury sticks. But the engine must be fully warmed up. And not all carbs will have the exact same setting. Mine are between 2 & 3 ccw
  5. jasonm.
    you likely have an intake leak''. somewhere....Or the bike is simply running WAY lean from carbs improperly set low speed screws. If you find your idle increases when adjusting a low speed screw and you are at 4+ turns CCW. That's a leaking manifold o-ring. BUT Since you say you removed the air box...ALSO Need look at the 2 hoses that work as PCV for the engine. They connect @airbox between 1 and 3 and the odd ball is almost behind #2 carb. Then go to the center of the "V" by the oil pipes. If all these are solidly connected. I suspect an intake o-ring is bad under one of the manifolds. You can spray WD40 at the mate of the maniford and head while it idles to see which is the leaker. Typically the engine will slow down...WD40 won't ignite. It happened to me. And carb removal is required. It's not fun nor easy...the 1st time
  6. jasonm.
    remember the tach runs by a signal firing the coils. In this case #2 coil. Could if the spark plug is fouled or the spark cap or spark plug bad...also cause these issues. Well, I have seen it. YES... Do the easy stuff first. Spark cap and spark plug(s) before replacing TCI or diodes
  7. jasonm.
    reason it runs better in 5th...now you can hear it. And maybe it's "leaned" out a rich condition. FYI...most(50% + 1) of us have carbs that are simply too rich due to wear and the floats sinking...a bit...you can blame ethanol...
  8. jasonm.
    based upon the wire colors stated earlier in this thread. And looking at my '86 parts bike. The larger relay shown is the correct one for 83-89. But due to the change in the ignitor in '90...they may have also changed the relays.
  9. jasonm.
    I don't think they are speaking "avg. retail". I bet they are looking at "trade in" or wholesale. But $300 seems worth it for you to buy back.. How many miles on it ? Just think of all the people you can help by selling the good parts off it:bighug:
  10. jasonm.
    FYI... I thought R1 calipers are not a direct swap to a 1200....just for 1300? ANd yes, as stated above. Those little antidive hoses are not a big help. Remove the hoses and swap the bajo bolts w/new washers. Also the 1200's are difficult to get all the air out of the lines...because there is not bleeder at the steering neck...which the 1300's have. SS lines a another BIG help.
  11. jasonm.
    The stock R/R will come out if you use a good #3 phillips. I used a #3 tip into a 1/4 socket and onto a rachet...came out easy. As fo rthe Mosfet R/R. I put mine into the horizontal left INTAKE duct. Fits good with high quality Velcro and can be removed if needed. Yes, I needed to drill a small hole thru the duct for the wires. #14 for Stator and #10 for +/-. FYI #10 might have been an overkill. #12 is what most use including Yamaha. The R/R never gets hot...
  12. jasonm.
    good to know if I pickup a 1200
  13. jasonm.
    K&L supply sold thru parts unlimited part #18-8944. I think $40 for a bunch. Most shops can order from Parts Unlimited
  14. jasonm.
    Some people suggest liberal dielectric grease on connections. This is the biggest mistake SOME people make. As the term dielectric = insulator. It did not take me 30+ years in electronics to know this. Find a dictionary. That type of grease is actually for plastic and rubber to seal out moisture. If your side stand switch was bad. The bike would shut off and not be allowed to start. Side stand switches can be bypassed if needed. I had my lights not work ONCE like you. I believe(not sure)...There is a relay that when you push the starter button turns off your headlight and allow more power to the starter. This relay could be an issue. Or someother wiring the previous owner did.
  15. jasonm.
    remove the chome cover on the stator case. You should see a tiny "pin-hole" in the flywheel bolt. No hole...no cooling kit. I was told all dealers were to put these in NO CHARGE. Mine did when I was the 2nd owner of an '83. If you are worried about clogging. You can take a copper wire strand and run it into the hole...once a year or more. 80k my stator still kicking...hope I did not jinx myself
  16. jasonm.
    YOU do NOT grease the coupling on the 1300s ever. :no-no-no:That flex-seal is to keep the gear oil in. FACT: The 1st 1300 service manuals had a misprint...which was left over from the 1200 manual. Note: the 1200 and 1300 use different designs. And greasing a 1200 is normal. . On a 1300 It should not leak at the flex-seal and you do not need to grease anything but the splines at the universal end by the engine. There is no reason the "grease" the coupling under the seal.
  17. jasonm.
    I patched mine 15+ years ago w/Devcon Plastic Welder. I reinforced it w/1/4" plexiglass. Heated to form a perfect shape of ALL irregular bends. A good amount of Devcon is needed and it sets up FAST, get spares. And smells bad while setting up. Use outsdie. HELLO...still holding no issues. You can do multiple layers of reinforcement to make it strong as "steel" w/o the weight. Especially if you always have a passenger. FYI...your trunk will likely also crack on the LOWER trunk...unless you reinforce it. Devcon available at True Value hardware stores and sometimes WalMart.
  18. jasonm.
    I knew it was a balance problem. BECAUSE Dyna beads do not balance the tire! Many may disagree with this. BUT, Tests have been done... They are simply "dampers" to lessen an out of balance issue. Honestly...they are snake oil. But work good enough for small bikes...usually dirt bikes. There are liquids out there claiming to do the same. But they also really do NOT balance the tire. The word here is BALANCE. Always get your tire balanced ...spin or static is better that putting foreign objects inside it.
  19. jasonm.
    DO YOU mean wheel bearing ? Wheel bearing are to be done correctly. There a many hacks out there that think they know what they are doing...and don't. As for the rear end. The bearings are good for 80k or more and then you need to look for a rear drive altogether if it's bad.
  20. jasonm.
    having taken my carbs out a number of times and I rarely used the Cruise. I removed mine, vacuum actuator and cable. Now I can change the cables in a bit shorter time. The trick is separating the cables at the twist grip. Then you get some slack. But since you have multiple items you are checking. THEN Stay with removing the left side plastics. As it will give you a better view of things.
  21. jasonm.
    if bleeding the lines helps at all. Then air is getting in "somehow". Rebuild or replacement of master and slave is the likely cure. I had my hose go bad. Where it bends at the steering neck. And blocking the internals of the hose. That caused stiff pull and dragging clutch. A 20+ year old hose can go bad...you know. I changed to SS braided. no more worries now.
  22. jasonm.
    unleaded gas has been arounf since 1975...And yamaha has the longest valve checks= 26k. Thus they are very good quality. Nothing to worry about . I have only needed 2 shims in 80k miles. But remember to check them or have a good shop do it. The engine must be COLD when this is done. Thus you cannot drive to a dealer and wait outside for it to be done. The shim tool is still available...I think...
  23. jasonm.
    I have a 5th anniverary 1987...yes that's the badge on my '87 gold/cream version.. And being that this next model would be the 30th anniverary. But my math says '88 should have the badge if it was painted gold/cream. Go figure that maybe Yamaha uses the Chinese calendar and crazy...maybe EFI and get the lost 20hp and tach back for the RSV, compared to the 1st gen sitting in my garage that turns the quarter in 12.7...I would buy it. But could yamaha get anything correct lately...keep dreaming for the Venture to return with serious gutts
  24. jasonm.
    I had the same issue on my 1st venture 83, holed diaphragms. So I got new from yamaha diaphragms with the slides. Or did you get the after market diaphragms installed ? If you got after market...who put them in? All it takes is one or 2 NG diaphragms meswsed up on install .I personally got the whole slide/diaphragms myself. Not cheap, but good for 35-60k miles.
  25. jasonm.
    Alway start with the simplest & easiest to check thing. Spark plug caps can go bad. BUT Yamahas can be disassembled, aka= cleanable. Check the resistance...should be about 10k ohms per the yamaha manual. I have found them 14kohm on bikes...aka bad. Which is fine if you were to use non-resistor plugs. Next check all connections as others have mentioned. TCI is under the battery. Taking out the batter box, you will see the 2 large connectors. But connections usually do not go bad in 1 year if the bike was stored in a garage. I see you say they are green...hopefully that's the root of your issue. Or you wash your bike a lot. Another reason not to wash your bike...water gets into connections. If that's not it. There is a high probability it's carbs just flooding the engine...bad float needles...just worn out, aka gas too high in carbs. It happened to me. along with "sinking floats". Damn ethanol.
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