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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    Obviously...I hope this is not your issue. Gary, if your NEW bearings were not tight enough from the get go.....umm that's how they get hammered. FYI- I have a grease fitting in my steering neck. The whole thing is filled w/grease moly' type. I have not needed to tighten my bearings since replacement 2 years ago. This one thing I think , may explain my lack of need to tighten. And how the originals went 74k. Also, I have an electronic fish scale with a hook. Yamaha factory tech said this is the best way to confirm if bearings are loose. "Front wheel off the ground, Hook it on to the spoke pointed horizontally". Pull slowly, a 3 to 5 pound pull is the norm to move the steering off center. Mine has stayed 3.5 Also your fork oil is WAY too light. The OEM says 10W and most move up to 15w w/progressives.
  2. jasonm.
    Super wide tire for some people is an EGO thing..."look at me". "Hey dude, look at that wide tire set up". Common w/H-D people and choppers. FYI-Any rear tire bigger than 190 on any bike, just SLOWs the turning ability.
  3. jasonm.
    But remember they are capped. I had caps dry out and crack on a YICS bike in 1 year. Quality caps are an unknown quantity. So caps need to be inspected often.
  4. jasonm.
    here is a part# for STANDARD Denso resistor plugs X24EPR-U9. NOT EXPENSIVE. Again, I do not trust NGK. Some use Autolite 4163 available anywhere.. But they have poorly made threads,compared to the Jap plugs...ugh! Get the Denso
  5. jasonm.
    The oil light is oil level...that connector is hard to get to, on the left rear side of the engine. Sounds like you have disconnected wires ...how long has this been happening?
  6. jasonm.
    Make sure your resistor caps are good.OEM spec is 10k. Too little resistance can hurt the igniitor. NGK spec. is 5k. Thus with NGK caps must use resistor spark plugs.
  7. jasonm.
    OKAY, an FYI- any packaging for these that says "kevlar" on front is an old package. New ones say "high performance organic". Then on the back...it says "aramid fibres"...aka Kevlar.
  8. jasonm.
    EBC is part #FA123...I have 2 new sets of FA123 kevlar and a set of Bendix...all in the packages. U Want them cheap? PM sent
  9. jasonm.
    NGK DP8EA-9 is the non-resistor type...notice the "R" is gone. "P" means projested tip. Which should be used. I got them at Advance Auto. They order them. But these spark plugs failed internally within 12 months with me. They "opened up" to infinite resistance. I have had 6+ NGK spark plugs do this in the last 4 years. No more NGK for me. I now use Denso iridium IX24B...yes these are resistor type. .. work great so far. But They are only available on the internet for me
  10. jasonm.
    Yes, those shown are the standard or "GG" pads. I found them good. I now use "HH" from parts unlimited. I actually have 2 or 3 sets of "GG" new in the packages. Don't know when I will use them. That price shown is within $5 of what most sell them for around me. Also there is another brand from England. .They used to called Dunlopad. But the name was too close to Dunlop...so they changed it I think to DP brakes. Very good pads
  11. jasonm.
    But the o-rings below them can fail. I had one go bad....which caused the bike to die unless I kept ther choke on for a long time. Another wat to know if the oring is bad...how many CCW of low speed screw does it take to get the engine to smooth out...any more than 3.5 could be a sign. Especially if you need to go past 5 ccw.
  12. jasonm.
    RTV scares me only because I have seen someone leave it in "there too long". It can let go at any time and clog stuff. OK just temporary as a running test...wish I had seen you state that before...cheers
  13. jasonm.
    a wider tire and wheel for comfort? Jeeezzz...buy a quality tire. Avon or Metz'r for starters. I hear Michelin has a new one> Commander-II. If you have not guessed...don't try to reinvent the wheel. Wider tires slow steering response. Victory knows this...on their Vision and Cross Country tourers the tires are slimmer than their Hammer cruiser. Guess you only want to go hi-way straight?:rotf:enjoy
  14. jasonm.
    The melting is a good start. But my way is faster and stronger. As the guy says. Melting plastic actually makes it brittle. Thus the "stitching" he does. I would have used Devcon on the inside area that he did on the second part of the video. Which would not be seen. Devcon is fast stuff...Once you use Devcon...you will ask yourself, "wish someone told me about this sooner"...Bet you he has never tried Devcon.
  15. jasonm.
    I read 2 magazine tests month back. The Voyager actually has less HP...approx. 70 at the rear. The RSV has 76+rwhp. The Voyager has more torque by a small amount. I'll have to dig thru a pile of mags to find that test again. So actually I think you are just feeling the..."new- different" aspect plus "6 gears" rather than 5.
  16. jasonm.
    The BEST and only glue(s) I use on ABS are Devcon Plastic Welder(true Value) and Permatex Plastic welder( Advance Auto).This is packaged stuff looks like a standand epoxy dual tube BUT is not. Both of these actually make NEW plactic and hold with self generating heat and a super glue formula. I have things that have been repaired for 20 years on my bike and no cracking or ungluing. Some are under major stress...no cracks. You can reinforce your repairs with metal or just use more of this "welder" compound. FYI- stuff stinks to high hell and sets up very fast. Works best at temps over 65F.
  17. jasonm.
    Is your battery a sealed type..AGM now? These are for most, the BEST. Mine sits 7 days between rides. And prior to start voltage(key off) is always 12.9v. It's a WestCo. IT'S 10 years old! FYI- a bad battery can cause you stator to go bad..."over heat".
  18. jasonm.
    Squidley...please...RTV is not to used in a gas environment. Now matter how lonng it sets, it will come off. :no-no-no:There are other things that are out there that are better. Yamabond 4 is a step up from RTV in a gas environment...but still not great. I suggest doing a search. Maybe sealers for "holed gas tanks"
  19. jasonm.
    remeber to line "up the "2 ears". The ugly thing about the OEM...is start up after your oil change. Actually it takes about 10 seconds for the cartridge to fill and oil pressure to start building to the engines internals. So that's 10 seconds no oil pressure. With the spin on you can prime it some. Having the a pressure gauge full time. Primed Spin-on it's 3 seconds for full pressure. Just something to think about.
  20. jasonm.
    the carb slide that is not moving....get a thin screwdriver or your finger in where you should see the "taper" and see if it CAN move...is it stuck due old gas? Having a bad slide assy/diaphragm is not uncommon. There are aftermarket diaphragms listed on this site. Or get the slide assy. The assy. I think is close to $100 now for ONE. Maybe remove the ridged carb top too. If it's stuck and you have been running it. The diaphragm can be torn or "holed". Remove the top with a GOOD #2 phillips...not a 10 year old worn out screwdriver. I use replacable BOSCH tips from Lowes. They grip!
  21. jasonm.
    I recommend something WIDER than a 2x4...you do not want unexpectedly have the rear tire to go off the edge. A section of 2x10 is worth the investment. Sometimes Home Depot has cut scrap cheap. I am neither tall nor big. The center stand use takes practice for some on these "large" bikes. Having my bike since '89...I now know I am getting old when I have to "take my time" getting it on the center stand. Remember your legs are at least 5 times stronger than your arms. It's leg power than gets it done. Note: I do not use a piece of wood ...yet.
  22. jasonm.
    the correct term is stranded COPPER core. Yes 7mm hypalon I think is the name/type. I replaced all my wires years ago. The OEM wires are VERY good quality. But you can get the right type at a good auto or power equipment store. Do not use radio suppression auto wire. But you may be wasting you money. READ> Yes you will ALWAYS get zapped touching the cap. It's plastic...and really not the greatest insulator. But that's what they use today. But the internals oxidize and that's where the issue usually is. Your caps if original are cleanable. Just need a good slot screwdriver. Before disassembly, you can "ohm them out" and check the resistance. 10k is normal. Inside there is the spring, VERY small brass washer and resistor. tHIS IS THE ORDER they are to be reinstalled. Clean only the metal parts, not the resistor w/2000 paper. I have seen the brass washer corrode away. I went around in circles for months with spark issues and found these causes and more. As for Autolite plugs.....for those with 20/20 or better vision. The Autolites have poorly cut threards when compared to the NGK or Denso plugs. AKA- they will wear into the heads like sand paper. UGH. something I bet no one has looked at..Ya ya ya I know you used them for years. I suggest you may want to stop.
  23. jasonm.
    I am surprised it's not from another Yamaha. So it's a secret what engine this clutch comes from ... FYI, Before the first Venture was even made. The starter clutch was originally used on the '82 Vision and possibly a few other bikes. I have an '83 Vision. Yes, the starter clutches do fracture from loose bolts. Seems Yamaha forgot about Loctite back then. The starter clutches...I have 2 spares. That I origianlly got from spare Vision engines. One of which is new. The clutch, if not fractured or loose can bemade to work properly with just the 72 tooth gear, new rollers and springs.Which I did @60k and bolts not loose. That centering issue mentioned is not stated in the service manual. Something I will keep in mind.
  24. jasonm.
    Diesels and other large engines run higher volume than our small engines and can push thru the thiickest of fil ters.The Pure-one is very THICK filter. Thus restrictive. I used the PURE-One once. And the fact that my gauge showed big lowering in pressure scared me. I kept it in for one day. Have not used that exact type since. FYI..my bike had a new oil pump 6 years ago. So my pump is not bad. Oil filters are a compromise, excellent filtering rarely goes with excellent pressure in our small engines. There are many write ups on this. I think Mobil1 filters are good at giving both. But no one stocks mobil M1-105 filter. Lastly , the Fram 3950 used to have six large inlet holes. NOW they are tiny holes. Something that surely is restrictive before it even gets to the actual filter element. Compare others to Fram and you will say ..."what the F#&@". I stopped using them when they changed the design. Thanks for your reply.
  25. jasonm.
    Guys, I have had my spin on Rivco adapter since 1991. I have been using Puro-classic 10193. Now after just 1600 miles I have noticed my oil is way darker than ever using my usual Mobil1 20w50. I can't see the back of the sight glass w/o a flashlight. And I am going to change it soon. NOTE: I have dyno tuned the bike, not running rich and getting 38 mpg 75mph hiway and 43 mpg back rural roads every day. Maybe The filters are now made different or I got a bad one that the "bypass" was stuck. Thus not filtering. I once used a PureOne and found it was way too restrictive. Actually significantly lowered the oil pressure showing on my gauge. And thus used only the Purolator-classic for 20 years. Q: What spin on filters do you guys use? Wix, STP, Napa ??? ANd how clean does your oil come out?...obviously clean is a relative term. I always find the sight glass on the centerstand a good gauge.
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