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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    14mm really...hum...Well, that may have changed. Because I have seen a 2003 R1 w/ 5/8. It had the same calipers as R/6. I guess there was a change...exact year of change I do not know. I do know , "feel" is a relative term. I do know, no matter how hard you squeeze my lever, cannot go closer than 3/4" from the grip. Oh, I am forget ...I am using FJ1200 calipers. But it still holds true that Yamaha changed the master to 5/8. When and why, not sure. Maybe there's an unseeable change in the calipers too? After close to 40 years in the saddle...25 on this bike. Whether it's pads or other parts in the system. I always stick to having the max. stopping potential available. Otherwise you are riding a Honda...
  2. jasonm.
    IMO-That large bolt is not worth the time hassle to do. So I do the transfer case cover,,,remove allen screw at 6 o'clock should be done every oil change. FYI- the copper washer on mine has never leaked, only replaced once in the last 80k. Should be torqued to 85 in/lbs. Don't over torque this. you will not like yourself.
  3. jasonm.
    someone says the 14mm master will work okay. For me I want it to work perfectly or give max possible stopping, 5/8" is what I use. I don't cheap out on these things. Do you want to slow down then stop or just stop, be able to lock the front brake? It's your life...5/8" is the ticket. I suggest you look at an R1 or R6...see what they come stock with for master bore.
  4. jasonm.
    a few light strokes of #2000 wet sandpaper
  5. jasonm.
    if your bike already has progressive springs. there is a pvc spacer that allows you to do just what you are asking....at the front. My spacer is approx. 1/2" and the fork sag is just 2.3". Leaving me with about 3" of travel remaining. Yes, get the seat reshaped. The trick to reaching the ground is narrowing the front of the seat foam. Which allows you to pivot forward and making a straighter reach as you step out with you feet at a stop. I have a travelcade seat. That is narrower than stock at the front...I believe.
  6. jasonm.
    there are 4 carbs here. Thus syncing the carbs requires a carb sync tool. Not something you can do by "ear". Otherwise you are wasting your time.. Proper tools are important. The best carb cleaner I have used is Berryman's and Techron. Berryman's is best for quick cleaning. Everything else snake oil..this is the result of my 20+ years with Ventures.
  7. jasonm.
    the progressive shock for 1st gens was not available for long. You know you have one if the damping is adjusted by a screw or allen wrench. The only thing many did not like on the shock was the collar spring adjustment like a sport bike. Do not use a screw driver and hammer to adjust spring preload. Get the proper tool. Which makes it easier. Great for solo riders or someone who does not change their basic load for day to day. Progressive-They are really good shocks. That's a find.
  8. jasonm.
    wow, from what I am reading. I think the bike may have been crashed hard over a curb. Oil filter housing removed because the mounting area is no longer straight. Trust me I have seen this exact issue. Now, the oiling system was plugged and sold to you. Or some far fetched possibility is the filter bolt threads in the case were stripped out. What I am saying ...the engine's moving parts are not getting oil pressure. You are lucky it's running. I have no other explanation. Be aware the filter cover threads may now be tapped out to a different thread. Thus , the OEM design is now unusable. If you were a friend or relative by me, I would find the seller and smack'em around. I see you are in MA. I'm in CT.
  9. jasonm.
    you cannot have an MPG function on a carb'd bike. Accurate MPG function is always EFI driven.
  10. jasonm.
    That French idea is great...but the drilling , etc, must be perfect.shows with the proper tools anything is possible. Still I believe Mmalaney was stating the MK1 1200s are better than the MK2 1300s final drives. I know someone who went thru three 1200 shafts in 80kmiles... but the rear drive survived.
  11. jasonm.
    The 1300s are very good. My '87 has seen it fair share or front wheel in the air time. But this was within the first 40k on the bike and 20 years ago. I have had this bike since '89, starting with less than 5k on it. My frequency of such "fun things" is far less now. But I did do a power shift just a few months ago. And the front wheel enjoyed some significant air time. No worse for it. As I bet failures are from a lot more miles, lack of rear end oil changes and abuse. Or any combination. These are well made drive units. Be happy you do not have a newer BMW having the "large bearing" failures. That happen at well under 40k. FYI, I have always used synthetic gear oils, Mobil1 , Spectro SPL, etc. Will mine last forever? I have a spare knowing, forever does not exist unless you are and astronomer. For the play you speak of on the '87. The play is measured in a few thousandths using an extender to measure this minute play. So that, according to specs, likely would be a good one. As for the 1200s, the wear is the spline area needing grease. And the fitting is useless. I have never seen a 1200 rear w/high miles....I think you guys are saying MK1 is 1200s and MKII 1300s...? I thnk mmaleney is saying the 1200s are better ...news to me.
  12. jasonm.
    I believe "D" = deluxe....aka Royale- radio, air comprerssor, etc.
  13. jasonm.
    I used quality BOOT laces crimped to small electrical lugs. And obviously attached at the latch mounts. Best thing for saving lids. FYI---wire breaks eventually. Boot laces flex and bend and lasted 20+ years so far.
  14. jasonm.
    Going that high(150's) on the main jet is......insane. 1st the original Vmax uses 35mm carbs. You have 34s. Second you'd be increasing the available fuel flow by more that the size shows. Flow is the D squared. So increasing size nealy 50% is nuts! A stock 1300 runs 125's.So you have a Venture that pulls to 9000 nicely w/o Vboost. I would not go past 135 jet for your next step. But you already proved it was running rich by lowering the needles. FYI...it's worth the $$ to find a variable load Dyno operator w/EGA. My guy cost me $100 for 3 hours. The reason for the 3 hours was MY wrneching in between runs. No wrenching probably cost $30. You got $30 ? TO me time is $$. And this will same you BOTH. Guess....sucks and wastes time. This will give you direction on your next step.
  15. jasonm.
    YES Stabil is simply not as concentrated.
  16. jasonm.
    don't be discouraged. There are many Yamaha fuel pumps w/ 1/4" ports on many different models. Physically they are the same except for port(hose) angle and port size. You need to go to the Yamaha parts webb site and do a comparison and get one off ebay. FYI-There are some pumps w/5/16 ports. Just don't make that mistake. I believe the old FJ1100 & 1200s from the 80's and 90's used the same pump...exactly. Since you are used to disassembling the pump...angle may not be an issue. As you can just trade the "tops". http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/myyamaha/prompt/L3Nwb3J0L3BhcnRzL2hvbWUuYXNweA==/Parts%20Catalog/starthere.aspx
  17. jasonm.
    I have posted this before...your original is adustable...that center screw...clockwise lowers the opening temp. That's a steel screw crimped inside brass. It's doable. I have done 4 or 5 no problem. Mine is now set to 165F. Must use a tight fitting screwdriver. I do appreciate the info should mine go bad.
  18. jasonm.
    you cannot rebuld carbs w/o knowing your fuel LEVEL. This is done with a clear "drain" hose and the carb perfectly level... in a vise. It can take 10-30 minutes per carb or 5 trys to get the level correct in each carb. Yes, that tab is the key but the needles must be good and the floats also. FYI- a bad float does not completely sink. Rather they will have SOFT spots. Manual says, " with drain open fuel level should be 16mm below the casting mark" to the side of the DIAPHRAGM cover. Make sure no Air Bubbles are in the hose. The manual is great for this work. If it's wrong you must remove the bowl/cover an bend the tab. During your "rebuild", If you skipped all of the above...then you need to seperate the carbs into left and right banks....again. It took me a few times to get it correct. Parts Unlimited sells JUST needles...far cheaper than the needle seat assy. from Yamaha. Pushing on the float proves little. The actual pressure you are doing with your finger is 10 times what the float does. If original- Don't assume your floats and needles are perfect. I got my floats for approx. $15ea. from Partshark.
  19. jasonm.
    Joe, Your mod is nice. The stock coolant thermostat is 180F. The fan switch stock is over 200F. With my VR on 90F days sitting at an exit ramp with 20 cars ahead of me...all waiting for the light to turn green...my fan would kick on and not stop till I was movng. So, 20 years ago I installed a manual switch because the fan KICKS ON by simply being grounded. I use it when I might get stuck in traffic as described. 10 years ago I modified the thermostat. FYI- the early thermostats have a screw in the center...this is how they are SET for the "opening spec." Thus, Using a good screwdiver...you simply turn that screw clockwise. Making the screw sit flush, My coolant thermostat now starts to open @165F. So it's impossible for my bike to run too hot.
  20. jasonm.
    if you have over 60k on the bike you likely need new discs. But before you do this replacement. Is your clutch resrvoir full? If you answer yes...it's actually only to be 1/2 full. The fluid needs room to expand when the engine heats up said fluid. So remove some fluid. Then test drive. If not full. Then it's an hour or so job. Takes longer to clean the old gasker off than replace the discs. FYI- I do not recommend any work w/o a good manual. The OEM is very good. Note: the steel discs only go in ONE way. If memory serves me, "Sharp edge out" . ANd the fiber discs have special marks that match up to the clucth basket. This is covered in the manual. Many bike shops do not know the particulars of the Venture clutch. such as... There is special "back disc" I call it. Once you look in the manual...it's simple...for me.
  21. jasonm.
    you had just a gallon left?. If that's the case, you should have been on the reserve setting(petcock). If not on reserve...say "OOPS"...FYI- this system has a timer circuit to protect from broken fuel lines causing a fire , etc. Meaning pump will only run CONSTANT for approx. 3 to 5 seconds when connected to the electrical "system" as designed.
  22. jasonm.
    I agree with above...I made it approx. 1000 miles from that depth above the wear bars. Be aware...the wear may be different when checked elsewhere on the center. So rotate the tire on the center stand and check it at ALL wear bars. You are speaking of the wear bars...yes ? Once your wear bar is flush....you are DONE!
  23. jasonm.
    sounds like you have a fiberglass CB antenna. BUT the 1100/ 1200 goldwing antenna kit does not fit good on our 1300s because the assy. actually goes "low" and will scratch the saddlebag lid. For our 1200s it's not an issue. If you have standard antenna bracket to the under trunk bracket...then you just need an antenna. there is an aftermarket company that sells them gor GL1200 and 1100s. Need to look around on the internet. DO NOT get a Goldwing 1500 or 1800 antenna.
  24. jasonm.
    If not stocked...any shop... The Denso's can be ordered. I have not used champions in 20+years. So I really cannot comment on them
  25. jasonm.
    what the 1200 can do that 1300 cannot is simple change the clutch spring pressure. The 1200 has 6 coil springs that can be changed for stiffer springs... Barnett actually had the kit that did all this when they saw the new clutch design. Which I never liked and changed by buying 1200 parts. That INNER clutch and pressure plate is a great thing. Don't thow that out. Since it's not in the frame connected to the rear wheel. You may need an impact wrench to get it out...SAVE IT if possible
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