jasonm.

I have had the bike 20+ years and now with 85k ....Turned on the ignition today. "Hit" the starter switch and heard the starter relay doing machine gun sound. Engine did not crank. Then ALL went dim and black including the dash and headlight. But in ACCESS position all access things work. Then wait 2 minutes...same thing again. Note: my battery is tip top shape AGM, 12.9v before turning the key. My cables and leads are ALL soldered and tight. The service manual test says this is likely the starter switch. I did change out the relay with a good spare...made no difference. In fact testing the original relay off the bike...it acts normal. Anyone care to confirm it's the starter switch ?

If you are getting low ohms from WHITE(stator leads) to ground then your stator is shorted to grong, aka - BAD. BUT>>>>you must test all OHM readings with both regulator connections disconnected. This will eliminate any false readings from a BAD regulator. Lasty...put a new battery in the ohm-meter

Well, I can say the red colored LEDs I purchasd most definately made the red lenses on my factory rear light bars just as bright as the #161 original bulbs . The origianl 161 lamps draw 180mA @14v ea. Other sites were advertised to draw ONLY 40mA @12 volts each for this type( 5 LED). But upon testing, they actually draw double that, CLOSE TO 80mA @14v normal operating voltage. Which is a good reduction in possible draw. But again not the reduction I was expecting. FYI...these cheap LEDs have ONE flaw...the WEDGE base is plastic and NOT glued on and basicaly loose. A trip to the dollar store for super glue, made all LEDs very solid. Another thing I forgot while installing these...they are polarized. So if they don't light up...just turn them 180 in the socket. Now to decide whether to change the yellows on the front ?

read this carefully. look for the Mikuni logo near the diaphragm area of the carb(side)...then just below that is "made in japan. The casting line is between the logo and made in japan. I will try to attach a pic or 2 from my spare set of carbs. So , you reset the floats because ...?

I hope you did NOT put dielectric grease on any electrical contacts. Definition of dielectric is insulator. Meaning to prevent electricity from flowing. I'm just saying this so that some day your brake lights don't fail to operate. I have worked on electronics for close to 40 years. This is a common misunderstanding of what this stuff is for. It has no ability of promoting contact. It was designed for plastic and rubber to keep moisture from getting into electrics.

they are cast horizontal lines only visable from ONE side of each carb(s) near the top, just under the diaphragm area.. They are there. And can be seen while the carbs are on the bike using a flash light. If you have a factory manual....it shows. But I suspect you do not. My camera batteries are dead. Hope someone else can post a picture. Also you did not say what got you started on setting the floats...? FYI- floats lose their boyancy over time causing the fuel level to rise. So the level being too low on old floats that NO-ONE else has played with ...is impossible. The level always rises over time. Out here, it's the ethanol fuel that attracts water...which the floats hate water..

Don't do anything till you set the floats Properly as I described before. You clearly have too much gas in the bowls. Sounds like you removed the carbs. = good. Did you make sure with a small bubble level...the carb(s) are level when being set ? I am not kidding here. I split my carbs into two sets and put them in a vise w/ (wood blocks). Made sure I checked they were level 4 ways to the moon. If you do not correctly set the floats...you will just get poor mileage and waste time messing with other adjustments not truly fixing it. As for the pump...it's a demand pump with built in pressure sensor. It does have "solenoid contacts" that can wear. But also can be cleaned.

sorry...I have a non-cali bike and I have that plug too...But it's buried. And ignored

FYI- you I think added too many lights to a circuit...not designed for this. All accessory lights should be on their own circuit. I have a 6 -spot added fuse block on mine. If it's just a few small lights then connecting the the accessory terminals is fine which has its own fuse.

News flash...you set the floats WRONG. That mark on the bowls is NOT what the manual says to use. Reason- the bowl covers can move 1mm . There are raised marks on the carb BODY that you are suppose to measure from. These are ONLY seen from the top/side area of the carbs. These line up dead center of the slide bore.

Wow....TX2 comments really helped me with this. I have had this bike for 20+ years and only turned on the trim lights a handful of times.... I ordered a 20 pack of "5 LED 360" types I mentioned before. They were not expensive and hope they work good on my rear light bars. I expect them by week's end. The site was the same someone ordered from on another thread w/link to Hi-autopia. Not "Superbrite" brand. But I'll let you know. If they do work well...then I will change the Ambers in the front over also.

what if I use colored LEDs in the instruments back lighting...say RED...the 5 LED 360 degree style. I suppose my intruments would look RED...like old Pontiac automobiles ...?!?

now to find the best deal on LEDs... ?

puro- 10193 or Bosch 3320 is what I use.... Frams are junk. This is from 25 years experience on the same 87 Venture

on my '87 I have the factory light bars. Never turn them on because of the power draw. Is it true...that a red lens should have a red LED, yellow lens have yellow LED, etc. ? What happens if I put in a "white" LED ? Any help is appreciated

People use resistors....but capacitors work to change the charge rate of the flasher relay AND allow you to use less AMPs. If the relay can be opened you can add or change the capacitance....

I MADE a correction above. Actually access is thru the RIGHT side. Yes, getting the old glass fuses out are a big step forward. I also did that fuse block change back in 1990 on mine. Fairing issues. Try Devcon Plastic welder or Permatex brand plastic welding epoxy(Advance Auto). Both of these are amazing and set up in minutes. While they set up you can "mold" the stuff using saran(plastic) wrap. Once you have it shaped with the plastic wrap..The glue does not stick to plastic wrap once it starts to set up.. . Wait 3-6 minutes - peel the wrap off as it gets warm. and off before the glue gets hot & bubbles due to lack or air.

WOW, took it out the hard way...I see. FYI- access is on the RIGHT side. Need either a JIS #3 (japanese industry standard ) screwdriver Or a high quality regular #3 phillips tip that you have in a socket driver. These high quality #3 tips are sold at Lowes and have ridges on them. Place one in a 1/4 drive socket. And use electrical tape to hold it in. Then with adapters and such mount to a 3/8 rachet.You actually only need to remove the plactic cover that sits directly on the valve cover(this removes to the right) and lower RIGHT side fairing. Using socket/rachet drive allows you up force to keep a standard #3 phillips from slipping out. ALL Jap bikes do NOT use phillips ...it's JIS screws. JIS screwdrivers are only sold on line. I speak from 25+ years with my Venture.

you are assuning the Vmax and Venture trannys are essentially the same. YES BUT the tooth count on gears are just one of the differences. Maybe the gears are just a "bit wider" here and there on a Venture. I had to open my engine up years ago. And a well known Vmax drag racer gave me specs' for the play you are speaking of. Mine fell right into the spec for the "end play" he would call it. I honestly do not remember the exact number...but .010" comes to mind w/o using any washers on my '87. I believe, The 1200s use different gears and I believe use this "washer". 1300 86-93 do not

back flushing the carbs thru the drain is a good way to lossen things up. If there is crap in the carbs. Also spraying Berrymans down the pilot air jet helps low speed issues . The low speed circuit is the smallest and clogs easily.

I am confused. Just taking off the cover...nothing can fall into the engine except the small shaft(s) the starter gears are on. What "pin" was this? or do you mean small gear shafts ?

I agree with the last 2 posts. Having the mount to the bike @footpeg bracket will put twisting on the "16 degree" bent pipe. Unless there was an unseen "stop" in the home made assy. that we could not see. Vertical (straight up)_to the frame support is always best like the stock way our bikes were made. To the saddlebag mounts/guards seemd doable. Take your time.

that's an air joint(hose) coupler. forget Lowes or 99% of the big box stores. Try a true value hardware store. It's likely metric..thus it's not easy to find. I have similar parts off "air" sprung forks. We would need to know the thread size/type. You can figure this out using bolts that thread in.

I think everyone missed the important part. It rolls fine BUT...it's stalling out. Meaning he has little power. It could simply me an intake vacuum leak of some kind or not all crabs are working properly. Leaks often come from an o-ring on each intake manifold at the head. I road mine for years just thuinking it was a lean beast. When it turned out to be ONE of these o-rings was bad. If you have more than one bad...uit will not want to play. Also it could be an electrical issue with the safety system for the side stand.

that's basically it, 1-Filter, 2-cover,3- large o-ring(cover).4- Bolt, w/-spring(5) and #6 washer. You did say you saw the parts on the diagram. The diagram is correct. I count 6 visable parts. FYI there is a small o-ring on the filter bolt makes Seven. Make sure it seals. I suggest using a small flat gap measurer(gauge) say less than .005" it should not slide under the cover's edges.