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MikeZ06Allen

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Everything posted by MikeZ06Allen

  1. Oh I will be there but I need to ride the bike there and I am not sure she can make it in the present condition. Thus I wanted to get the sync done before I need to ride over 3 hours.
  2. Does anyone have any experience with Mastertech Motorsports in San Antonio, Tx? I ask because I need a carb sync and they offered to do the sync for $65. Seemed reasonable and the gentleman I spoke with seemed to know alot about the VR. Any and all comments are welcome.
  3. Ok took the bike for a spin today (wonderful weather) and found that I was getting serious afterfire on accel and decel. I was also getting an occassional backfire through the carbs. One was so bad it unseated the carbs from there boots. Got the bike home and shut it down and noticed I was getting a steady drip of gas out of the side of the carbs. Yanked the airbox and found fuel in the tops of the carbs and more flowing in even with the key off. I then determined my problem seemed to be an overpressure on the gas tank. HMMMMM Back last spring, Skydoc and I removed the charcoal canister in order to eliminate potential vacuum leaks. With my understanding of the gas vapor purge circuit being very limited I thought I hooked everything back up correctly; apparently not. Once I disconnected the purge solenoid and tank vent the gas stopped pouring into the carbs and bike cranks much better with this stuff disconnected. I will plumb the recirc lines into a filter to eliminate dusting the engine but for the most part the gas tank is now venting to atmosphere and the purge circuit has been eliminated. Sorry for the long post but I wanted others to learn from my goof up and say sometimes it is just better to leave well enough alone. Update: Warm start issue has been solved. Bike is back to starting without throttle input; now I need carb tune and I will be back in business. Thanks to all for the inputs and guidance; most if not all comments were incorporated in fixing the issue.
  4. Well carbs have been throughly cleaned and are back on the bike. However the warm start issue still persists . Although I believe a carb sync will help the issue and possibly find a dealership with an EGA to set the idle air mixture. To that end does anyone know of any reputable shops near San Antonio that can work on these bikes? Definately acquired a new appreciation of the work involved with removing and servicing the carbs on these machines. Can't say I will ever do it again though
  5. Still do, well at least ten years ago; although mostly used as drones now but a few are still in service.
  6. Makes sense as this bike sat unused for a several extended periods. I got the bike a year and a half ago and it only had 26k original miles and the lion share of those miles was when the PO rode it back from California to Maryland.
  7. I ended up taking the left fairing off because I could not get enough slack with it in the way. Probably the long way to get the rack out but it was my first time. Yeah I spent almost ten years as a career Airman until a liver disease put an end to that dream. Had a line number for Tech at the time but medical board ruled me disabled so I got out and now work as a Contractor for the DoD and other Federal Agencies. In 1973 I was 5 not saying anything...just saying .
  8. Ok carbs have been cleaned, dipped and air blasted. All jets cleaned as well. Seems I had a fair amount of almost calcium like deposits. Not sure where they came from unless I got some really bad gas with alot of water in it. Oh well... the good news is everything looked great, no pitting or rust so no trip to the Yama dealer for parts. Now I have to figure out how to get all these linkages back together, and reverse the throttle cable removal process.... this thing better run like....well let's start with running.
  9. Ok I have decided to pull the carbs . I have them disconnected from the motor but the throttle cables are proving to be troublesome at best. I have MBrood's writeup so hopefully that will help. Here goes nothing. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54 (1st Gen Carb Overhaul Writeup)
  10. Is there any way possible to clean the primary circuit without disassembly? I have an air compressor and various common tools just nothing to measure a vacuum.
  11. Goose... I will have someone with more knowledgeable than I and with more tools check the vacuum... I believe you are on the right track, thanks for chiming in.
  12. mmmmm, might give that a try. Yes I crank te throttle a little otherwise the engine just doesn't seem to want to "catch". This does not sound like my problem as the motor is actually turning over as I am cranking. I fear, though, if I continue to have the hard start issue then I will need new starter clutches and a new starter. I concur that cranking the throttle wide open does help the starting a little but in my opinion that does not fix the problem as the throttle should not need input on cranking. At least until last spring it did not need throttle to start.
  13. Spins over alot and eventually catches and sputters to life. Extremely strong smell of gas each time on warm start. I have not ruled out a flakey TCI but just wanted some feedback before I made that logic leap. No drag but a four brush starter plus heavier gauge battery wires are on the to do list.
  14. Ok folks I have been chasing my tail on this one and quite frankly I am done so I need some assistance from folks alot smarter than me. Last spring I started having issues with my 89 VR backfiring on decel. A new collector from Mark (Mark's Pipes) and an awesome new/used set of stock mufflers from Earl (Skydoc) solved the backfiring on decel. However, in fixing that issue I seemed to have created another problem. Cold start the bike fires right up and after some initial cold engine sputtering and backfiring through the carbs it purrs right along at the set idle speed (1000 rpm on stock tach). However, once warmed up and if let sit more than a minute it is a bear to get restarted. I have done the following: 1) Sprayed non-chlorinated cleaner into the top side of the carbs with the diaphragm covers/air cleaner on and off. Focusing on all openings and accessible jets 2) Ran 6 to 12 oz Seafoam religiously for over a year 3) Drained fuel bowls and checked for gunk suspended in fual (found none) 4) Pumped straight Seafoam into carbs while running and let sit two days. Performed this twice as I wanted to make sure I did it right (resultant smoke cloud on restart killed all mosquitos within two miles and fire department has put me on their "watch list" ) 5) Changed and regapped plugs after each Seafoam treatment 6) Cleaned all electrical connections and retightened where necessary 7) Battery has been tested numerous times and is pushing more than enough amperage 8) Plug wires and diaphragms are less than 2 years old 9) TCI and coils are all stock (40,800 miles) At this point I am looking for any other suggestions. I will be attending the SE Texas Maint Weekend so maybe I can get some good pointers there as well. Thanks
  15. Thanks guys; now I have a full dance card and not sure which to go to. Ahh to hell with it; I will try to make it to them all. That is, of course, if my lovely bride of 16 years is agreeable to such:080402gudl_prv:
  16. With my current carb issues; it is I needing the backup from my 1st gen brethen. I will look into the Leakey M&E.
  17. To all of y'all here in Texas. I am back and looking for some rides and good times. So chime in and let me know what's happening. Thanks
  18. Ok I feel inclined to chime in and let folks know what an awesome friend Earl is: Long story short; I found one of my new carb diaphragms in need of replacing and it seems these things are as rare as hen's teeth these days. So Earl overnights me one of his slider assemblies off of his 87. In spite of his woes he is still more concerned with me staying on the road than his own problems. Earl, I am so glad you walked away from this and let me know if I need to come up to PA to help with anything.
  19. It is a direct replacement for the stock collector box. I have not tried mounting anything other than the stock muffler so I do not know for sure if a VMax muffler would work or not.
  20. My 89 does the exact same thing and have been told it is perfectly normal. Although I swear it is louder some times than at other times.
  21. I believe this has been attempted to some degree. The may issue is the suspension arrangement of the VR versus the VMax. The VMax uses two shocks mounted outboard of the frame whereas the VR uses a single shock mounted in the center of the frame. This greatly limits the orientation of the rear header pipes. The next issue is mounting the mufflers. This is easier to make modifications for and some on the forum have had some success with this approach. I have a Marks pipe collector but I am still using the stock pipes at the moment as I am chasing a carb issue and I want to may sure the muffler is not the issue. Someone will chime in with more knowledge I am sure.
  22. As I understand it the stock size is 120/90 so I figured stepping down to a 100 mm would not adversely affect the handling as it equated to about 3/4 of an inch in overall width at the tread, not the bead. As I mentioned, the handling is great except above 70 mph and I feel far more stable on the bike up to that point. I still have a perfectly good Metzler that I may put back on and go back to tippy toes. Changing the rear shock pressure and rebound rate helped so I think I am heading in the right direction. I noticed some vibration in the handlebars this morning so I will probably check the steering head this weekend and take the wheel back to the dealership to check the balance. (And drool some more over the 2011 VMax:no-no-no: = wife)
  23. Actually, the rear max pressure for this tire is 49 psi so I am well below the max pressure but I may lower it a bit more and see how it feels. I was not aware of this procedure for torqueing down the rear. I will redo the tightening process to make sure I do not have anything binding.
  24. Ok last weekend I opted to replace both front and rear tires. The rear was pretty much shot so I decided to step the size down to help reduce the ride height a bit. I have a 28" inseam so the VR can get a little top heavy for me. Anyway I digress; I went with a Shinko 712 (100/90) up front and a Shinko 777 (130/90 6 ply) rear. BTW, thanks to this great forum I was able to get both front and rear wheels off (kneeling). While the wheels were at the dealership getting tires mounted and balanced. I was able to completely service the rear diff and grease everything up. Man those splines were dry as a bone and rusty (explains the roaring noise). I also repalced the brake pads while I was there. Once I got the wheels back I replaced the seals and bearings in them too. All in all, not a bad way to spend the weekend if you ask me. I have to say I am absolutely thrilled with the low speed handling however at anything above about 70 mph it seems the front starts to shimmy around a bit. I originally had too much air pressure all the way around so I dropped it 4 lbs in the front and 2 lbs in the rear. Bringing it to 36 front and 45 rear, even at that pressure I am still getting the shimmy motion (kinda like being buffeted by a strong crosswind) even when there is nothing around but me and superslab with no breeze. I have since dropped the rear shock pressure and made sure the front was as close to zero as I can get (progressive springs installed with heavier oil). I will see if that helps. If not I am totally puzzled.
  25. All great suggestions and I now have my laundry list of things to check this weekend. I am really reluctant to pull the carb rack because...well I know almost nothing about carbs, and, quite simply put, the bike runs great once started and cruising down the road. I use this as my daily commuter and am in a bad mood on days I can't ride. Maybe I need to bribe Skydoc_17 to come back down to VA for a visit. Rocket is patiently waiting with your favorite stick Earl PM me on when you and Jean can visit. I will cover the travel and your time.
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