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shighley

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Everything posted by shighley

  1. shighley
    RandyA; I sent you a PM asking for more pictures. Thanks again for the help! Switching from riding the Venture to the KZ650 takes a little adjusting! This is a really good reason to clean the garage and make space for the hundreds of thousands of bits and pieces of the Venture. Ha I'm thinking when I'm done with this repair and considering I did the 2nd gear repair, I will know the beast inside and out. Best Regards, Steve
  2. shighley
    Hi All; My frame broke yesterday morning on my way to work. Scared the you know what out of me. So, now it's down to tearing the thing apart and finding someone who will repair it. My question is did Yamaha ever recall the '83's for this problem? Anybody have an idea of how many failures have happened? I had checked the area for cracks/rust at each rear tire change and it always looked good. I thank the good Lord that it failed on straight and level highway. 1 minute before I was in the twisty section of Ortega highway and am sure I'd be in the hospital if it had let go then. What's the old saying about God looking over children and fools? RandyA, thanks for the excellent pictures. I plan on showing them to the welder. Best regards, Steve
  3. shighley
    HipShot; I bought the assemblies from Zanotti (w/spring), P/N 99999-01536-00, $54.93 each. That was back in July of '06. Today's price is $75.90. Wow! I'm sure glad my payrate increased the same percentage!!! LOL. Anywho, that's my .02 worth. Ride safe, Steve
  4. shighley
    The pilot screw kit is 12R-14105-00-00and it looks to run about $11.00. Good luck and ride safe, Steve
  5. shighley
    Hey Scott; Check to make sure the 4 way flasher switch is all the way "Off". Cycle it a few times and try the turn signals again. Good luck and ride safe, Steve
  6. shighley
    PEIslander; I've had good luck with straightening rotors and have done it a couple of times. I bought rotors off EBay and they were warped. I used a travel dial indicator and a magnetic stand to tell me where the low and high spots were. I then used a large adjustable wrench to coax the rotor back to where it belongs. Amazingly, the heat cycles don't seem to make the metal go back to it's bent position. Call me a crazy shade tree mechanic, but the process worked for me. Ride safe, Steve
  7. shighley
    Hey 5bikes; I just did my '84TK 2nd gear replacement a few weeks ago. The bike had 121K on the clock. I had been riding it with 2nd slipping out for about 20K miles. Bike hasn't been abused. I would recommend fixing her ASAP. During the teardown I discovered a few things that I believe would not have happened if the repair was done at the first symptom. Two of the shift forks were bent and both of the fork shafts were bent. Also, the driveshaft had moved away from the bevel gear and end had choked off/restricted the oil supply to the 1st driven gear and the copper bearing galled to the shaft. The oil supply comes through the shaft. As a guess, the delay in repair cost me a couple hundred dollars in parts. My .02 worth. Dive in and let us know how it goes. . . Ride safe, Steve
  8. shighley
    chocking; Check to see if the engine stop switch on the right control pod is OK. Mine had a voltage drop across it when dry and would not allow the motor to start after washing. I ended up soldering the leads to the switch together and the wet start problem ended. Ride safe, Steve
  9. shighley
    Hi All; I hope this is posted in the best place. I've been looking to buy color coded wire and don't know where to get it. My XVZ12TK has some marginal circuits and I'd like to refurbish them with the correct wire. I'm anal, what can I say? I figure there is about 30 color combinations and I could spend several thousand dollars. . . (joke) Anywho, if you've been down this road, please help me out. Ride safe, Steve
  10. shighley
    Yo Devil Dog; While your checking electrical connections, take a look at the switch on the right handlebar. I had problems with starting after a bath (the bike, not me), and it turned out the contacts were bad and caused a voltage drop. I bypassed the thing and soldered the wires together. That TCI likes to have an honest 12V for proper function. I've also heard of sidestand switch connections causing problems. The other weird thing I noticed is idle speed has an effect on starting. When I raised mine to 1000 rpm, it started easier. Go figure! Ride safe, Steve (Semper Fi)
  11. shighley
    I found a good trick in removing the flywheel. I attempted many times to get the darned thing off and failed. Ruined a couple of puller tips before the "light" came on. The method that worked for me was to use the flywheel mounting bolt and the flat tipped adaptor that came with the puller. Screw in the bolt until you have about 1/16" of clearance between the flywheel hex face and the large washer on the bolt. Install your puller and go to town. You don't need to worry about anything flying off because the bolt effectively catches the assembly when it moves. The other thing was to use robust washers under the heads of the M8 bolts in between the bolt heads and puller. That's my .02 worth and hope it helps someone. Ride safe, Steve
  12. shighley
    Hi All; My .02 cents worth. All copper washers can be reused if they are annealed. Hang them on a coat hanger and heat with a butane torch until cherry red. Drop them in cold water and you are done. You will find them soft as butter and ready to seal whatever you're working on. Sometimes it's inconvienent to wait for new .80 cent parts. . . . There is a limit to number of annealings. The washer will get thinner each time. Never had one leak though. Ride safe, Steve
  13. shighley
    Pappyam; The splined drive assembly on the wheel has pins that fit into cushion rubbers in the wheel. When the pins get dry, they will make a clicking noise. Drop the wheel, remove the circlip and work the drive assembly out of the wheel. You will probably see red stuff (rust) all over the pins. Lube with moly grease and touch up the splines, reassemble, and the clicking should be gone. It's a good idea to do this when you change tires. Let us know. . . Ride safe, Steve
  14. shighley
    [ATTACH]12494[/ATTACH] I don't know if the attachment process worked, so I'll cut and paste: PageTitleRef. No.Part NumberSuperceded #DescriptionQtyRemarksA-12Water Pump21FK-12450-00-00Impeller Ass'y1A-12Water Pump693306-00004-00Bearing,(B6000)1Pump shaftA-12Water Pump793101-10090-00Oil Seal1Pump shaftA-12Water Pump811H-12438-00-00Seal, Mechanical1Pump shaftA-12Water Pump993211-16591-00O Ring1Cover to HousingA-12Water Pump1426H-12449-00-00Gasket, Water pump1Housing to C'CaseB-1Water Pump1993210-27194-00O Ring2For Joint B-12411H-12412-00-00Seal, Thermostat1B-12526H-12413-00-00Cover, Thermostat1Tweaked!!!!!B-12693210-45511-00O Ring1Thermo cover to housingB-2Radiator-Hose126H-12578-00-00HOSE 31from T.stat hsg to rad.B-22393210-14104-00O ring, Drain cock1B-22426H-12566-01-00PIPE, by pass1B-3Radiator-Hose2690445-09252-00HOSE 1To overflow tankB-32826H-12576-01-00HOSE 11B-32926H-12579-01-00HOSE 41from temp hsg to rad.B-33126H-12577-01-00HOSE 21B-33426H-12427-00-00GASKET, housing cover 11B-33726H-12428-00-00GASKET, housing cover 21B-34426H-12589-00-00HOSE 61B-34626H-12588-01-00HOSE 51from drain cock to rad.B-34790460-15227-00Clamp, Hose 52Too expensive!! This looks pretty confusing if I do say so! Hope it helps someone, Steve
  15. shighley
    Paru: I received your email and sent back an Excel file on the required parts. Let me know if you need more information. BTW, I could not reply through the Venture network to you, email denied! Good luck and let us know how the repairs go. Ride Safe, Steve
  16. shighley
    I suggest the above. I have done it and it does improve the brake. My anti-dive unit didn't really do anything anyway. The other thing was that the P/O had altered the lever stop screw. I wasn't getting full stroke of the lever. This won't cost you anything, except the time to rebleed the system. You can use the banjo bolt from the anti-dive unit (single hose) on the caliper. Heat the copper crush washer with a butane torch until cherry red and quench in cold water. This anneals the material and they will seal as new ones. Ride safe, Steve
  17. shighley
    Joe; Is your clutch releasing? You say it appears to be OK, but it's worth asking. When it's hot, put it up on the centerstand and start it and put it in gear. Pull in the clutch and see if the wheel slows or stops. Use a little brake with the clutch in and see if the motor drops RPM. A very quick check that costs nothing. I assume the fluid level is up to snuff and the system is properly bled? Just a couple of thoughts. Let us know how is pans out. Ride safe, Steve
  18. shighley
    hdroyer; I'd check the engine stop switch again. See if there is a voltage drop across it. My '83 put me on the side of the road when it just stopped running. All other electrical worked and fuses checked out OK. I actuated the stop switch a couple of times and the bike fired up and didn't miss a beat on the 1000 mile trip home. (I was a little nervous) I had been having starting problems after washing. It turned out the contacts were nasty and I bypassed the switch and soldered the leads together. My .02 worth. Ride safe, Steve
  19. shighley
    It's a little late but I got this part number from a service bulletin for the '83TK. 12R-14105-00-00 Ride safe, Steve
  20. shighley
    Jerry; Your system is working properly. The dull glow is normal. Relax and enjoy the ride! Ride safe, Steve
  21. shighley
    Buddy; When you visually checked the oil level, what did you see? I've noticed that when the level get towards the bottom edge of the sight glass the oil light will come on when going up hill and turn off when going level or downhill. I don't run the oil level more than half way up on the sight glass, to avoid fouling the air cleaner box. It might be as simple as adding a half pint or so. My .02 worth! Ride safe, Steve
  22. shighley
    91nwl; Yep, I'm offering a parts list to rebuild the water pump. The manual is a little funky as usual. It's not a difficult deal. If you decide to tackle the job, let us know. BTW; the earlier post about the thermostat housing leak made me nervous again and I'm gonna do mine while on vacation in a couple of weeks. Best regards and ride safe, Steve
  23. shighley
    91nwl and JustJack; Are we talking about two different leaks? The cool night thing sounds like the leak from the thermostat housing and I've also experienced it. I have the parts to rebuld the housing but haven't done it yet as it never leaked again. (Tempting fate?) The water pump leak 91nwl posted about: I've been keeping an eye on it after the rebuilt and the weeping has totally stopped, clean as a whistle. My opinion on the purpose of the hole in the housing is to provide somewhere for coolant to go if/when it gets by the mechanical seal. If the hole wasn't there, it could force it way past the oil seal, through the ball bearing and into the crankcase. Milky oil anyone? I recommend you continue to watch the amount of weeping and when the quantity crosses your personal threshold for minor leaks, buy the parts and rebuild it. I'll post a list of parts if it will help you. Ride safe, Steve
  24. shighley
    91nwl; My '83 TK, 99K miles showed the exact symptoms your describe. I ordered all the seals, gaskets and O rings required and rebuilt the pump unit. The amount of "weep" or film deposited on the housing, at the drain hole, is 10 times less, but it's still there. The sealing mechanisim is very interesting to me as I'm not a pro mechanic. The impeller to housing seal is made up of a spring loaded neoprene sleeve that is held against a flat disc pressed into the impeller. I don't understand how the arrangement can possible work (again I'm not a pro)! I'm guessing a little weeping is normal and to tell you the truth, I think I wasted my time and limited talent! I'm very interested to hear what the real wrenches say on this subject. I was suprised to find a plastic impeller in mine that was still hanging in there at almost 100K miles. Ride safe, Steve
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