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Keemez

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  1. Keemez
    Fair enough. Thanks.
  2. Keemez
    If this machine had the trunk rack on the top and it wasn't wiped completely out I might be interested in that.
  3. Keemez
    And for his 3rd project, Dingy will probably drop one of the gen2 Vmax motors into one of his spare gen1VR frames. Wouldn't that be something?
  4. Keemez
    For those of us in the upper midwest, FleetFarm is (again?) running a sale at 6.48/can.
  5. Keemez
    Make that all of us. Just post it here public like, please.
  6. Keemez
    Also, what about the possibility of just rotating the needle on its shaft? A number of us have done that with the speedometer.
  7. Keemez
    Did anybody other than me notice that the airbox is installed backwards? Might make for good "ram air" like that, but it ain't stock. Either that or MINE is backwards...
  8. Keemez
    That's easy. Highway 6 northbound out of the northeast corner of Montana. I was just there about a month ago and have a photo under that same formation.
  9. Keemez
    No worries. A vast number of us have found boats.net (among other sites) to have very good part information at times. It's worth bookmarking. Furthermore, if you have a good relationship with your local stealership I'd suggest seeing if they will match the online pricing that boats.net shows- I've saved quite a few dollars over the years by this method.
  10. Keemez
    I'll play the part of the jerk (even though I'm really not one)... I had no trouble finding the turnsigs called out, including part numbers. It's an entire assembly, as previously mentioned. It's under the TURNSIGNAL subsection... http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1984/VENTURE%20ROYALE%20-%20XVZ1200DL/TURNSIGNAL/parts.html (link may or may not take you directly there) 26H-83310-70-00 FRONT FLASHER LIGHT ASS''Y 1 $183.63$143.07 26H-83320-70-00 FRONT FLASHER LIGHT ASS''Y 2 $183.63$143.07
  11. Keemez
    I'm 2 inches shorter and inseam in the 3-4" shorter range... and my knees hit those bags too. I removed them and never looked back- they were more annoying than useful.
  12. Keemez
    Did you make it to Gates this time?
  13. Keemez
    Wellp... I got thrown for a loop on this one but I think it's good now. I know, I know... I said that before. Several of us were ciphering about this in chat the other night, and it was shortly thereafter that it seemed to solve out. Drum roll please.... dbdbdbdbdbdbbdbdbdbdbddbdbdbdbdbdbbdbdbdbdbddbdbdbdbdbdbbdbdbdbdbddbdbdbdbdbdb Placing my original fuel pump relay back into the circuit seemed to cure it. Let me back up a little bit and give you the troubleshooting lowdown. After our chat session the other night I was inspired to watch what was going on using a voltmeter. Probing the blue wire at the fuel pump connector, I had battery voltage at key on or kill switch on (engine not running)... for a few seconds, and then it would drop to zero. Dropping to zero without the engine running is what we would expect to see- the TCI says "hey the engine isn't running, so I'm shuttin the fuel pump (relay) off..." *click* So then I thought to myself: I'll fool the system- I'll get the engine running, unplug the connector and then watch the voltage while the ignition signal is present (fuel pump should be commanded on/energized at all times). Same thing- the voltage kept dropping back to zero even with the engine running. Mind you, all of this (plus the 3000 mile voyage in which I had intermittent problems) was with the spare/replacement relay that Dingy had sent me, which as you recall via post #25 in this thread I had noted the difference in the one he sent me vs. the one I pulled out ("stock" or not, I don't know... suspect stock). So I took the windshield and dash back off, swapped the relay back to my original and watched voltage again- tadaaaaaa! Batt voltage at all times (except after the ~4 second no-RPM cutout)!!!! I've only ridden it about 35 miles since but no issues have cropped up so far. Apparently those relays ARE different enough to result in some functionality issues. Jasonm may have been right about the possible change in relays due to the different TCI setup on the 90-93 models. Moral of the story (and we should all know this anyway)... ONLY CHANGE ONE THING AT A TIME! Remember, I had put Dingy's relay in at the same time I discovered the mechanical dislocation of the check valve in the pump. I solved one problem and unknowingly created another, which resulted in practically identical symptoms and driveablility problems. So... Dingy, did you want that relay back or should I wing it on to the next guy (83-89, apparently) that needs it? Thanks to Bongobob, FLB78, and Flyinfool for their contributions to the tech chat aspect.
  14. Keemez

    Lost Lid

    Keemez replied to Wanderer's topic in Watering Hole

    My '93 also lost the right side lid at one point (not while it was in my possession). Definitely something about "that side"...
  15. Keemez
    I always.... always always always run in the reserve position. Don't make any sense not to.
  16. Keemez
    The saga continues. After I resecured the check valve in the pump, I thought it was going to be ok. After nearly 3000 miles, I still have an intermittent problem. I got back home and looked at the pump innards expecting to find that check valve out of position again, but it was still where I left it. Then I looked closer and discovered that the little protrusion on the back side wasn't quite fully seated in its hole, so I thoroughly played with it and got it to seat as good as it's going to get, and retested. Same thing. Near as I can tell here's what's happening. Bike runs fine most times. I'm not convinced that the pump is running as frequently as it should to keep the carb bowls filled. Just this afternoon I let it run in the driveway with the pump connector unplugged. When it started to stumble I plugged the connector back together (expecting the pump to run immediately and refill the carbs)... nothing. As soon as I cycle the kill switch off and back on, the pump takes off and everything operates normally again.... until the cycle starts all over again. It was doing this at random times (seems more frequent in warm temps at lower speeds and low loads) all along my trip. Cycle the kill switch a few times and it takes off again for a random period of time. Has anybody else experienced this same syndrome?
  17. Keemez
    I think there are a couple 41Rs up under there. I'm not sure what the difference in all those is nor have I done much research on what any of those indications mean. All I know for sure is that the relay Dingy sent me is definitely different than the one I pulled outta there, and now I'm back to thinking that my original relay was probably fine.
  18. Keemez
    I'm quite certain I have it solved now. It appears that one of the check valve diaphragms in the pump came out of position. I noticed the little rubber thing floating loose in there when I had it apart last time, but I didn't think much of it at the time. Then when I was taking a closer look at Dingy's dissected pump pics (referenced earlier in this thread), I noticed the difference between his and mine. I managed to push the backer plate down and get the diaphragm reinstalled into position again, and I'm sure that will cure my ills. What DOES annoy me is... how and why did that thing come put of position in the first place? It just doesn't make any sense to me. You can see it laying on top of the pump cover gasket in the attached photo. The little teat goes into the silver backing plate, and the whole (as in... entirety) of the diaphragm has to go underneath the plastic boss. The entire affair is spring loaded on the back side. If you have to get that far into your pump you'll see what I'm talking about- pictures are hard to capture the essence of it. Hopefully this will be my last post about this subject. Except maybe I'll report on the success (or failure) after my long journey.
  19. Keemez
    No grease involved so far.
  20. Keemez
    Well, it did it again. This time after several hundred miles of riding with no apparent issue. The only thing that seems to be common in each of these instances is that the fuel level in the tank was below 25% or so, and I'm ruling that out as being an issue because I know I thoroughly blew out the vent lines. I received the spare fuel pump relay (thank you, Dingy) and it is currently installed but haven't tested it yet. I will be embarking on a multi thousand mile journey to put it through its paces. One oddity I noticed before I installed it- it does not seem to be the same size as the one I pulled off my 93. I'm wondering if the one I had in there (I got this scoot used with 60557 miles on it, so I don't intimately know its service history) was nonstock, although it looks just like several of the other ones up under the dash there. If anybody else has their dash apart, take a look at that relay and see if it matches the spare that I got from Dingy (on the left side of the pics I will attach) or the one I pulled outta there (right side in the pics). I gotta say- I'm a bit confused about this.
  21. Keemez
    Ok- there is definitely something "weird" going on. It did it again today. Conditions: 79*F, mostly sunny, cold start fine and ran for about a mile (moderated speeds no greater than 40mph) before starting to stumble and eventually dying again. I was actually able to get stopped and open up the gas cap (somehow my key comes out of the ignition in pretty much any position) before it died. I figured if there was a vacuum lock going on, as soon as I opened the cap and fuel started flowing to the pump again all would be ok. No such luck. Cycle the kill switch a bunch of times and no fuel pump run. Then on a random whim I heard it start clicking like usual again and it ran fine for the rest of my 30 mile errand trip. I didn't have my voltmeter with me. Maybe that relay is suspect afterall. So far the count is one warm and two cold snuffouts.
  22. Keemez
    I did a fair bit of troubleshooting. At first I thought maybe the pump was clogged up with some junk so I took it off the bike and disassembled it slightly (pulled the cover off)- it was spotless. Applied power to it using battery charger and it runs as commanded- I'm calling the pump good. Then I thought maybe the filter was full of debris. Once I had it cut apart it also appeared spotless. Took the fuel sender out of the top of the tank- petcock screens are spotless although there is some minor rust in the tank in general. But since the screens look good I'm not worried about it. Relay seems to be energizing and de-energizing with every throw of the kill switch or ign key- the contacts in the connector were pretty clean but I gave them a little more bite just for good measure. As I mentioned in my last post the only other thing I suspected might have been wrong was plugged vent lines from the tank, and I made sure that's not an issue. The bike runs great otherwise so I am skeptical of a TCI (or associated wiring). Both times that it did this was when the tank was getting closer to empty, but still had maybe a gallon left in it.
  23. Keemez
    Update: found 'er (trial and error). It is the relay all the way on the right side of the bike (left side as viewed from out front). Pic attached. The contact blades look pretty clean, but I roughed them up a little anyway for good measure. Here's something I don't understand... if I turn the petcock off and allow the carb bowls to run more or less dry to the point where the engine stumbles and eventually dies, why will the fuel pump not continuously run at that point and try to refill the bowls? I'm talking about either while the engine is still running or when you cycle the key or kill switch to the run positions... conditions under which the pump would normally be running so long as the bowls are "empty" and more fuel is needed. It's almost as if the pump knows there's a vacuum on the the inlet side (because the petcock is off, remember) and until it sees some liquid inside the pump, it won't allow the pump to run. As soon as I turn the petcock back on the pump fires right back up again and everything operates normally. At this point I'm wondering if instead of a pump relay issue, maybe I had plugged vent lines. I poured a little solvent in both ends of the vent and blasted 100psi air through them repeatedly (yes, the gas cap was off so I didn't blow the tank sky high). I'm pretty sure they're clear now, even though I suspect they were before because I had done that about 18 months or so ago when I first picked the scoot up. Dingy, do you still have a known good spare relay that you're willing to part with? Might not be a bad idea for me to carry one along juuuuust in case.
  24. Keemez
    Alright- I seem to be having the same problem here. The old "phantom out of gas syndrome" has struck me twice in recent history. Cycle the kill switch and no definite fuel pump running, then allasudden it starts working again. Marcarl was right- the wire colors called out do NOT match what's up under the dash. There's 3 or 4 relays which energize when the kill switch is cycled- which dang one is the correct one? I see zero relays with the 4 wire colors called out. I guess I could unplug one relay at a time and see which one stops the pump from running, but nice move on the part of the folks that developed the service manual.
  25. Keemez
    That sounds WAY high for exhaust.
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