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Keemez

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Everything posted by Keemez

  1. Keemez
    I have spent the last 2 days fighting in this same area. The radiator does not need to be completely removed to get the exhaust header out of the way but it will need to be pried up/out of the way a little bit so you'll have to unmount it from the frame. I don't see any cracks on my tstat cover but that oring was pretty sad. I found one very close at the local hardware store and with a little creative Dremel-ing got that one to fit in spot without any apparent leaks. Where I DO have leaks is on that stupid elbow. I cheaped out and got 79 cent orings for that too that looked like a really good fit but they still dribble some. As I type my bike is sitting out in the sun letting some RTV cure up that I glopped all around the diameter of the tube. This is the 2nd or 3rd attempt- if it doesn't work I'm going to break down and get the actual Yammy orings.
  2. Keemez
    When I had my gear pos switch off recently for cleaning & etc two of the wires pulled off the terminals with ease. I had to solder them back together- I suspect this is a weak area.
  3. Keemez
    Anybody have a known good fuel pump that I could use for testing purposes for a few days? I have my pump off bike (G1 MK2)... and when I connect direct to 12v power source I'm getting a fair amount of arcing at the batt with no pump run. UPDATE/EDIT: I connected it straight to batt charger (10A setting) instead and it broke free after a few attempts. Wonder if it was bound up inside. Guess that's an early warning signal, eh?
  4. Keemez
    Wish I coulda made it... was battling a dang coolant dribble most of the day (plus my TCI still hasn't arrived). Well, there's next year.
  5. Keemez
    Better yet, put a big ole knobby on the Venture when it's running good and "mow" the lawn that way.
  6. Keemez
    Well, THAT explains a few things!
  7. Keemez
    The (red) warning light in that pic is shown as a result of a fault detected in the tail/brake light circuit (as indicated by the CMU display).
  8. Keemez
    Right you are, of course. But the drop in pressure = increase in volume. We're probably overthinking this. A 2mm hole is still pretty small, and it's not like the oil pump output goes diiiiiiiiirectly to that bolt as a first concern, ya know?
  9. Keemez
    I finally completed a slightly modified version of the 4 brush ground update in this post (see #22). This upgrade was among several heavy hitters that I did in a series of mods... bike has been down for a month or so. I'm anxious to get it back together and ride again! Anyway, on to "my" ground update: Instead of soldering to the top of one of the ground posts, I stuck some 12ga wire through one of the rivet holes that mount the ground tower to the plate, flattened the stripped portion of wire a full half inch or more long out, and then soldered it to the bottom side of the plate in the raised/recessed area under the ground tower. (SG1) [ATTACH]57409[/ATTACH] You can see the wire coming up from underneath and under the braided brush wire in this photo (SG2). [ATTACH]57410[/ATTACH] In this photo (SG3) you can see how the wire has been tucked underneath the braided brush wire and run toward the outside of the brush plate. [ATTACH]57411[/ATTACH] Here you can see the alternate angle of the wire coming under the braided brush wire and starter in mostly reassembled state. I had to be pretty cautious about not stretching or stressing the braided wire any more than necessary to get everything situated just right. Also, I took another 90 degree bend to run partially around the circumference of the brush plate so as to get lined up with a good area to go up and out the end cap. I couldn't run it straight up because it would have been very near one of the tower bosses on the inside of the cap and furthermore one of the starter mounting bosses on the outside of the cap. (SG4) [ATTACH]57412[/ATTACH] Here the wire has been fed through the hole I drilled.... pretty much straight above where the wire took its final 90 degree bend to go up/out the end cap. (SG5) [ATTACH]57413[/ATTACH] And finally, everything mounted in place with a nice big ring terminal pinched under the upper mount bolt, and a generous dollop of RTV to seal the hole in the endcap. (SG6) [ATTACH]57414[/ATTACH] So far I've only bench tested it. Hope I don't wind up going all the way back in there... that'd be a pain.
  10. Keemez
    Well, I just effectively doubled that. Guess she won't plug up now!
  11. Keemez
    I too suffered the "now how in the heck was that thing IN there?" syndrome regarding this plate/washer since I've been down for about a month now. Too many things to remember all of them. Good thing I was able to find this thread without having to resort to asking fresh. Nowthen, while I was at it I got to thinking... (I know..... a little bit of knowledge generally = danger/disaster). Is there any reason I shouldn't have enlarged the oil passage in the flywheel/crankshaft end bolt? I used the smallest drill bit I had, and the diameter of the hole is now approximately .092" / 2.35mm. I don't know what nominal was. I also chamfered it slightly. What surprised me was how easily my drillbit went through that material- I fully expected it to be harder than the hubs of Hades. Anyway, my thought is this: if "some" oil flowing through there is good, isn't "a little more" better? Thoughts?
  12. Keemez
    Doggoneit.... my TCI probably won't arrive back here by Saturday, which means the siccle won't be operational til Monday. I'm still maybe with tendency toward unlikely.
  13. Keemez
    Many of us prefer the de-linked setup, but there are some that retained it with no ill effects. It's not particularly difficult to do, it just takes some time to get through it. Particularly the first time, as most tasks do. Once you've done them successfully they become a snap after that. Another thing to consider is changing out the old stock lines to new stainless steel lines (something many of us have also done). There are plug&play kits available by way of this site if you're interested. Send Skydoc_17 a PM- he'll tell you anything and everything you want to know about improving the braking effectiveness on these bikes.
  14. Keemez
    Shoulda selected the optional 35 year warranty!
  15. Keemez
    That's kinda the way I do it all the time. Two finger salute starting from a relatively pointing vertical position, rotating toward horizontal and pointing forward....
  16. Keemez
    I should have saved some sort of procedure for my 93 to be done. As it is I am about 3 weeks into a multiweek project which just kept getting bigger and bigger as I went along. Well, at least the engine is gonna look cherried out now (beadblasted and painted several components). Barring any serious setbacks I'm planning on coming and hangin out for the day Saturday.
  17. Keemez
    I've done very similar experiments a couple times. Seem to have very similar results too... 140-150 is the first flash of the warning light (intermittently disappears and reappears for awhile); another good 40-50 miles before she conks out completely. I was thinking of bending the float arm a tick so that the warning doesn't happen til maybe 20 miles from empty. Now, will somebody please tell me how I managed to get the engine OUT of my bike entirely by myself, but it took three people to get it jockeyed back INTO position? Haha- and here's a reminder to all who attempt the engine removal feat; MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE STUPID TORQUE TUBE BOOT ON BEFORE YOU GET THE ENGINE BOLTED BACK IN PLACE! If I had any inkling to ever remove the engine again I'd be a pro at it.
  18. Keemez
    God = Big Oil Satan = Wall Street marketing folk haha 10...... 9...... 8...... (this is totally deletable..... only posted in jest)
  19. Keemez
    I think there should be a live video feed for those of us who aren't able to make it.
  20. Keemez
    The (1st gen) exhaust clamps that go on the 6 collector ports (4 in, 2 out)? 5 out of my 6 survived, but one was pretty well toast. Part #s 25, 26, 37, 44 in the following diagram: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1993/XVZ1300DE%20-%20VENTURE%20ROYALE/EXHAUST/parts.html I can probably make any one of them work. Just need one if ya got a spare collecting dust. Lemme know? Thanks!
  21. Keemez
    Haha... no worries, mate. Actually my stipulation that it be within a certain distance of me was only in the interest of rapid transit time. It wouldn't make much of a difference in the long run- probably only one extra day to make it all the way to NC. Buuuuttt... it's already on its way to Michigan so it looks like I've got er taken care of for now. Thanks anywho though- appreciate the offer.
  22. Keemez
    I took your advice and got ahold of JMA; he said he'd be glad to help. Thanks to the both of yas!
  23. Keemez
    Who, within say... 750 miles of Green Bay Wisconsin... has a perfectly functioning 90-93 MK2 that might be willing to perform a little test for me? AND has easy access to their TCI (hope you relocated it)? I'm tempted to wing you my TCI and have you try it on your bike to be sure I didn't damage it when I was putzing with it. Very simple: send it to you, have you test it (swap mine in place of yours), send it back to me. The way I understand it, 90-93s are specific in their TCIism (due to componentry), so it'll have to be in that window unless Dingy proves me wrong. Why don't I try it on my own? Cuz I'm at least a full week away from having mine anywhere near ready to try out, and if there's anything needing to be done I'd just as soon do it in my current state of disassembly. Any takers?
  24. Keemez
    Thx Gary!
  25. Keemez
    I was going to JBweld it back together but because it broke right at the point of attachment I suspect it won't hold together. I'll PM you. Thx.
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