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Keemez

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Everything posted by Keemez

  1. Keemez
    Awning/cover for the tape deck? I have a slight misalignment issue due to the TCI being mounted inside the fairing there- causes a small gap around the outboard side of the tape deck and how it lies down in the recess. I figure I can keep the majority of water away from the area with the awning and then seal it up the rest of the way with electrical tape (service removable) or RTV (permanently affixed- not good).
  2. Keemez
    Alright all you smartypants folks- let's try this one on for size. Has anybody tried modifying the speedo sensor so that cruise will work above 80mph? I understand the basic principle of reed switches and etc, but the specifics of it would need to be known in order to work a go-around for the 80mph inhibit limit. Would it be as simple as jumping across the contacts like the other CMU jumpers? How does the cruise module KNOW when you're going 80+?
  3. Keemez
    I had a similar overflow dump recently with my 93. Gave it several repeated bursts of compressed air (NOT 150psi!!!!!) to cycle the floats up and down, forced some straight Seafoam in with the same method... cleared right up.
  4. Keemez
    RESERVE is UP (fully CCW)....... OFF is forward...... ON is down (fully CW)
  5. Keemez
    Cmon...... we're gonna need more than THAT!!!!!!
  6. Keemez
    I'm going to offer up one piece of unsolicited advice; exercise extreme caution between Wausau and points west on hwy 29/94. It is absolutely rife with deer. Now that you're all worried..... enjoy your trip!
  7. Keemez
    Actually I should probably hold off until A) a somewhat less windy day and B) I have additional reason to head down that way. Got some errands to run locally today. If I know for sure that I'll be heading your direction anytime soon I'll let you know though.
  8. Keemez
    You thinkin of takin the motorbike? I'm half tempted to ride on down/over there with you, cuz it's another fine riding day. Plus that'll clear my record for the WI MD no-show (not my fault!).
  9. Keemez
    Wait until you get one inside your helmet, buzzing around in/by your ear. Or stung in the eyelid (happened to my uncle once, and he's severely allergic to bee venom).
  10. Keemez
    Did you fix the rear brakes yet?
  11. Keemez
    I scored a stock collector from ebay last fall for under 90 bux including shipping, and it was in dang fine shape. However, they do tend to run well over 100 frequently. Would anybody be interested in my old one, which is in rather sad shape? Three of the 6 main ports are toast, more or less. Also, the mounting flange/bracket literally broke. You might be able to get some use out of it though if you're good with a welder? See photos.
  12. Keemez
    That's one good lookin brake reservoir/fix! Jeez!
  13. Keemez
    Yessir. And to provide a path for more/cooler airflow into the airbox vicinity as well. I've laid my bare hand on the topcover where the R/R is mounted and it gets warm but not hot. I'm certain that there's far more cooling effect going on where I've got it mounted than in the stock location (which is horrible).
  14. Keemez
    What would the feasibility be of mounting it directly to the underside of the top cover? You could go right across the flats and hold it in place with some velcro or something. I have my regulator/rectifier mounted in this location with no interference issues. Of course, the TCI box has a little wider/longer footprint- it might not work.
  15. Keemez
    Not to my knowledge- just plain old clear reinforced PVC. I don't know for certain how well it will hold up to brake fluid over time- I'll have to keep an eye on it. That stuff is stiff as can be, by the way. There's no way it's going to come off the upper fitting (which is why you don't see a clamp over it). I wanted some clear like Skydoc did so that I could keep an eye on the color/condition of the fluid. Foolish of Yammy not to put a siteglass in that reservoir- the boss is already there for it!
  16. Keemez
    Here's a shot of the rear reservoir (which is where the float & wiring is..... the master cyl itself is below). Be sure the engine is cool if you're gonna go fiddling around in there.... the rear header is in close proximity.
  17. Keemez
    I eliminated the floats from both master cylinders (reservoirs, actually) and jumpered the wires together for both front and rear- I got sick of seeing the (false) warning. I can clearly see the front m/c fluid level, and with no leaks on the rear I know there's plenty in the reservoir back there (delinked system). I did find a weak spot in the rear circuit- there's a bullet connector about 18" or so away from the rear reservoir on the right side of the frame, nearly abeam the gas filler neck. That connector was somewhat dull so I took and cleaned it up some, and it wasn't as tight as it should have been so I pinched it shut some, but still had the warning after that, so I wirenutted the dang leads together and haven't seen the warning light since.
  18. Keemez
    I suspect the airflow on top of the airbox/under the top cover is significantly cooler than the blast furnace right under the battery box. Only way to know for sure is to take some readings though.
  19. Keemez
    What's wrong with surgical zipties?
  20. Keemez
    Fair point.
  21. Keemez
    Not only that, but unless you're using valve grinding compound or some other such abrasive as engine oil, the maintenance interval suggested for many of these tasks is way overkill. I just recently checked valve clearance (likely the first time it's been done) on a 93 with 65k miles... all are well within spec. In other words, there's very little wear occurring and 26k mile check/adjust intervals is unrealistic. I wouldn't hesitate a bit to run 50-75 thou and not worry about it in the slightest.
  22. Keemez
    I'm gonna post in this thread too, even though my leak isn't in the same spot. Mine is dribbling slowly (1 drop every couple minutes) out of the hole where the drain tube jams into the bottom of the stat housing. I see no damage to that oring in there at all (pulled it out, cleaned it up, etc), but it still wants to weep. I tried cleaning and drying the area out and cramming it full of RTV but it still won't seal up good. I guess for $1.46 I could try a new oring. My question becomes: which is the preferred method of installation for this area? I'm not sure whether to set the oring in the housing and then install the tube, or feed the oring onto the tube and then install both into the housing? Install it with or without the highflex slop FLB mentioned above? (I don't currently have any, and I'll be danged if I'm gonna pay 18 bux for a tube of it...) Or... would it be ok to install the old oring AND the new oring on that tube at the same time perhaps? (doublesealed!) MAN this is getting frustrating! At least I seem to have stopped my other leaks.
  23. Keemez
    Well, mine was self-induced. I pulled the motor outta the frame cuz it needed a total degreasing/cleaning, and I decided trying to measure the valve clearance in fame was a foolish feat to attempt. It WAS easy with the engine sitting on the floor, but I'm not convinced it's worth the hassle of pulling it outta the frame just for that.
  24. Keemez
    You ain't kiddin. This is how I wound up being down for a month or better and spending a buncha loot that I don't have.
  25. Keemez
    Yeah- that's overkill (engine out of frame) for these procedures. Everything is accessible on bike so long as you jam the radiator up/outta the way. In fact you can even leave all the hoses attached/clamped in place- they have enough "give" to allow it to be repositioned enough to get the header out and back in. It's gonna be a few hours before I know whether my attempt will hold or not. Local stealership has been pretty good about giving me discount pricing on all the parts I got from them lately, so if it comes down to needing the actual Yam orings it won't be a challenge getting them locally. Plus we'd spend more in gas just getting together than the dang things are worth in the first place! haha Thanks for the offer/thought though.
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