Keemez

Anybody have some good trim and fairing pieces from a MKii Royale? I've got some pretty significant deterioration going on (thank you, brake fluid) that is rendering them probably unrepairable at this point. Ebay stuff is nonmatching and or bashed up to the point where I don't want it. The two upper black panels ( 59J-28221-00-00 , 26H-2837M-01-00 ) on the right side are what I need most in the short term. The right side major fairing half ( 59G-Y283H-21-XF )is probably going to need replacement too- it has various cracks and breaks which I've repaired more than once already. I hate ABS plastic.

I received PH's TCI and (hope he doesn't mind!) put my Dremel to work on the connector blades... polished them up good with a mini wire brush thing. Tried er out on the way to work today... seems to operate no different than mine (wouldn't expect anything different, really). I did not notice any dropouts or hiccups at or anywhere near 3100 rpm. Seems ok in all RPM ranges I've ridden at (under 4500 for the most part) so far. On the other hand, I have not noticed any pump dropouts since I first made this thread. I plumbed in a monitoring LED at the fuel pump connector so it would be obvious while riding if the pump lost power, but it hasn't happened to me again in a couple hundred miles. Maybe I disturbed a funky connection somewhere along the line. 600 mile trip comin up this weekend- we'll see what happens.

This post ( http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=700962&postcount=29 ) is in a thread started by you on a related issue. The two check valves work in tandem. One is an inlet, one is an outlet. That way the pump will let fuel in through the in line but not back out except by way of the out line (and vice versa). I got fed up with the OEM pump last fall and put a Mr. Gasket on mine. ........ and now my mileage has decreased noticeably but I'm tired enough of farting with it that I'm gonna leave it.

Absolutely. I'll have it back to you within 2 weeks or less.

I'll give er a shot if you don't mind. I'll PM you.

Sawed off ears would be fine- mine is relocated to the left fairing where the radio used to be. Any idea what the 3100rpm hiccup was? Has this one been re-dioded or is still in stock format?

Would anybody (Dingy) who happens to have a known good TCI for 90-93 MK2 be willing to part with theirs for a week or two for testing/backup purposes? I will be making a 600 mile trip in short order but I've been experiencing issues with the fuel pump relay lately. Don't know if it's the relay itself or maybe the command coming from the TCI. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Perhaps a known good FP relay to be shared temporarily as well might be a good idea. I'd really rather not have this thing conk out on me during my trip, in which timing will be crucial. Anybody? (Dingy?)

Weird. I wonder how/why I wound up with one washer tucked under the clip all that time. Well, since my nylons are marginally thin at this point I better leave it the way it is. It seems to run fine like this, although I think I'm borderline lean what with the latest modification to the stackup thickness. Since I rarely ride at that load/RPM I'm not going to worry about it too much. Thanks!

Hey Frank, mind if I jump in and lowjack this thread? Thanks! I've got a related tale of woe. Some of you may remember my ongoing troubles with the OEM fuel pump last fall. ( http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68861 ) I did eventually snag up a Mr. Gasket pump and installed it...and promptly noticed a considerable increase in fuel consumption. Recently I had the carbs off (man, what a colossal pain. I am NOT doing that again as long as I own this thing), mostly disassembled, and ran each one individually through my ultrasonic cleaner. Probably more for peace of mind than anything else- I did not see anything specific that led me to believe anything is seriously awry in there. My assumption was that the 3psi of the MRG being higher than the OEM might have been causing the float needles not to seat properly. Carbs back in and a fresh tank of eth-free gas through it yields approximately the same mileage as before, but still down from where I used to be with the OEM pump. I recently ordered a new set of diaphragms because mine are indeed pinholed (and el-cheapoed in the form of multiple RTV blobs). I suspect that like Frank, once I get around to installing the new phragms, my mileage will decrease even further. A very simplistic view of the sitch going on in there tells us that the diaphragms' purpose is to pull the slider and thus the needle up out of the jet and let more gas be pulled through. Common sense dictates that if the diaphragms can't pull as hard (because they leak, due to pinholes), the needle will stay in the jet longer and less gas is consumed. So in chasing my mileage, I've gone back to the idea of reducing the thickness of the nylon spacers on each of the needles. I measured them (I've "modified" on them before) as follows: LF: 1.53mm RF: 1.49mm LR: 1.65mm RR: 1.52mm You might have noticed that my LR nylon was thicker than the rest. I went to work on all 4 of them again and even though I got them slightly lopsided they all measure pretty close to 1.49-1.50 now. Then when re-reading this thread ( http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28432&highlight=needle+shim ) and particularly post #13 ( http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=302298&postcount=13 ) I've got myself all confused up on what the proper stackup is. Mine is as follows (image attached at bottom): nylon spacer, steel washer, e clip, steel washer, spring, plastic screw. To make a long post/story short, my question is: is it JUST supposed to be the nylon spacer underneath the e clip, or is there a steel washer between the spacer and the e clip as well? I was kind of thinking that the washer being under there makes a nice flat surface for the spring to perch against. But those washers range in thickness from .38mm-.42mm, which since they're currently under the e clip, that brings the needle up out of the jet by that additional amount as well. The thing is though: that's how it's been since 2010 and there were numerous times I got over 40mpg with it. Now I'm lucky to hit 35. I will also include that I noticed that really rich smelling gassy smell after the fuel pump had been replaced, and the tailpipes are indeed fairly sooty. Plugs kinda dark but not black. Everything points to a rich burn condition. I'm just tryin to lean er out some. K, I said too much as usual. Here's the needle stackup pic.

For those of you considering diaphragm replacement, it appears SDI will still give us the original negotiated price of $69.99. I had inquired about them back in August. None were available until a projected mid December timeframe. Just last week after it being out of sight/mind I resumed talking to SDI and they honored the previously quoted price and also have them in stock at the moment. Price to my door: 82.50 and they got here in 4 days. Not bad.

I find it easier to take them both off with the centerpiece still connected- all as an assembly. Following the owner manual procedure is far more work as far as I'm concerned. 8 bolts and associated wiring unclippiage and they should come right off.

After this jump he should be capable of riding a 1st gen, eh? We all knew it was only a matter of time....

Dang thing..... did it again! That stupid little diaphragm check valve got itself out of position somehow and this time rendered the fuel pump inop altogether, and not at a good time. Not dangerous, just bad timing. On my way home from work I stopped where I had to leave the scoot, yanked the battery out and the fuel pump off (cuz I knew it was one of those two issues), and when I applied 12v (batt charger) to the pump she was locked up. So I took the outer cover off again and sure enough- there's that dang valve. Put er back together proper and it pulses like it should. I don't know what else to do to this thing to make that diaphragm not pop out of its spot. Would anybody be willing to cough up a known good one from a lower mileage unit? Mine is coming up on 85k miles. At the moment I'd kind of prefer to stick with an OEM vs. the Mr. Gasket type, especially if anybody has a cheapo one.

Yeah but AVGAS (100LL) has lead in it. Not good.

Therein lies the problem of course. Almost anything > InternetExploder