GolfVenture
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GolfVenture replied to bongobobny's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I too would be interested in reconditioned one. -
Never too old to have fun. I want one.
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Where would you recommend purchasing Progressive Springs for 89 VR from?
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Well somethings one buys on ebay may sound good but are not and so I was hoping to receive opinions from others who may have purchased them or if there are better places to buy them.
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Does anyone have any concerns with these ebay Progressive Springs. US $69.95 Shipping $14.40 US $14.40 United States Expedited Shipping (USPS Priority Mail®) 4-5 business days US $14.40 United States Expedited Shipping (USPS Priority Mail®) 4-5 business days US $14.40 United States Expedited Shipping (USPS Priority Mail®) 4-5 business days 83-93 Yamaha Venture Royale Progressive fork springs 83-93 Yamaha Venture Royale Progressive fork springs 83-93 Yamaha Venture Royale Progressive fork springs 83-93 Yamaha Venture Royale Progressive fork springs Part Number: 11-1112 Lifetime warranty Precision-wound High quality chrome silicon wire Progressive Rate Spacer required is furnished with springs. Suggested Retail: $92.95 The Original Progressive Rate Fork Springs soak up the small road bumps, yet are firm enough to absorb the molar-rattling ones. Spring rates have been chosen to reduce front end "dive" during braking, yet still provide excellent ride comfort. Better yet, we warranty our fork springs for life! Progressive Rate Fork Springs have several advantages over straight rate springs. A straight rate spring only offers linear resistance to compression and is a compromise. For example, if you have a 20lb straight rate spring, it will take 20lbs of force to compress the spring one inch. It will take 20 more lbs of force to compress it the next inch, and so on, until the end of the travel. A Progressive Rate Spring has the advantage of a rising rate resistance to compression.
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Success. I like to thank you all for your suggestions. I've learn a lot from this. I would like to contribute in a tool that I made incase someone here might find it useful. After removing the drain bolt from the back of the carb, I needed a longer tube so I could reach the carb spray into the float bowel area. I got some 18 gage wire in hopes of pulling the copper wire out. Well the wire wouldn't pull out but what did side out was the clear plastic sheeting that goes around color plastic wire. It was tough going at first but I kept working it and soon I had a tube nozzel about a foot long. Now you still needed to use the red spray tube that comes with the carb areosol spray to put into the nozzel opening, for the clear tubing is too weak and flimsey to press into the nozzel head. Then slide the clear tube over the other end of the red nozzel. Also putting the drain bolt back on was another obsticle for the hole is slanted slightly down and there isn't enought room to get the hand/bolt started without dropping the bolt. So I took a 12 inch piece of wire and pealed some of the plastic back exposing some copper strand wires. I wrapped a couple of the stands of wire around the o-ring side of the bolt. Then I was able to lower the wire with the bolt near to the drain hole. With the other hand I was now able to get my finger on the bolt head and pushed the treaded part of the bolt into the hole. Then I pulled on the wire and the wire of course slipped off the thread. Then with the other hand I was able to get around the carb from another angle near the bolt and with fingers from both hands able to thread the bolt into the hole. It does help to have small hands. When I did spray into the float area nothing really came out for I had a clean shop paper towel under the opening to catch the debree. Each time I would test by plugging the drain hole with my finger and then activating the fuel pump with the run switch. Fuel still would come out the overflow. I ended up using the 18 gage wire and poking it into the drain hole into the float bowl area. I gently moved the wire around and soon I could hear the up and down motion of the float. I again did the fuel pump test and soon the fuel pump would no longer activate. After several more attempts with the run switch and no more fuel pump action with no fuel running out the over flow, I declared success. I havn't reassembled yet but I hear that my next obsticle is the breather hose. Will be picking up a 11 inch needle nose plyer, for that is what I hear will make the job easier. Again this is the best group, and from all the new comers I'm seeing the word must be spreading. Thanks Again.
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I like this new way now also.
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I have an 89, but it won't start. Must have been a tough winter for it.
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MKI is a 1st Gen Venture years 83 to 85. MKII is 1st Gen Venture from 86 to 93. Not sure what the MK stands for maybe MakeI and MakeII. Just a guess.
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I order one. $27.00 including postage. I'm a happy camper, Now if I can just get my carbs working this next week.
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One Last Question for those who own a High Definition Action Camera? Being that a regular HD Video camera does not work well in action situtations, how well do these HD Action cameras work as a normal HD video camera? Could some one post a sample a HD Action Camera being used as a normal HD Video Camera?
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Yahooooooooooooooo!!!
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Hows this for a plan. 1) Tap on each carb behind the diaphram in several places. 2) Take my electric back vibrator and use a towel to protect the carb/diaphram and hold the vibrator onto the diaphram and let it vibrate, vibrate, vibrate. 3) Then drain one carb at a time into a glass bowl hoping to see junk. Then turn the key on to activate the fuel pump. Do this a few times. Then move on to the next carb. 4) Pull all the plugs out and put it in gear then turn the rear wheel foward a few times to push excessive fuel/carb cleaner out. Do not use the started to push the fuel out in case of a spark/explosion. 5) Then with the plugs out let it sit over night for evaporation. 6) Next day install the plugs. 7) Hit the starter. 8) Pray and cross my fingers. If any one would like to add to this, please do.
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Thanks for the infor about pulling the plugs to push out excess fuel before attempting to start it up. Ok, so I will tap on each carb to hopefully lossen things up. Could someone send me a picture of the various points to tap on. Right now I'm just kind of guessing to tap somewhere behind the diaphram.
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Ok, I got all 4 Idle Mixture Screw back in and backed out 2 1/2 turns. Now for the float bowl drain screw. But before I do it let me tell you what I've encountered. I need some help in getting it my VR started for the 1st time in 2011. I can't imagine there is anything mechanically wrong with it except for the carb. See I bought it in South Lake Tahoe last year and rode it back to Seattle which is about 900 miles around mid Sept. Then knowing that it won't get ridden until late spring of 2011 and I read so much about Seafoam and asked a lot of questions. The recommendation was to put about 8 oz of Seafoam with a full tank of gas. I then rode it over 100 miles then parked it on the center stand. Mid winter I started it up for a warm up. It did start kinda of hard but did start and warm up good. Because it started up kinda of hard I decided to change the plugs for I heard that if the fuel system is dirty that Seafoam could foul the plugs. That is all I did besides putting it on a 2 amp charger all winter. This past week I attempted to start if and it I could tell that it was kind of firing but barely. With each start attempt lots of fuel came out the over flow. And you know the rest of the story. So for the float bowl drain screw, Do I remove it all the way out or unscrew it so many turns. After I have eithor removed the float bowl drain screw all the way out or just so many turns, then what? Is that all I do , or do I activate the fuel pump a few times. Oh. do I undo the float bowl drain screw one at a time then activate the fuel pump. As you can see I could use some tutoring.
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When screwing in the Carb Bowl screw how far does one tighten. Just when you feel the spring tention, or all the way in until it stops or somewhere inbetween? From the center of the diaphram cover one goes straight down and the screw is in a long tunnel.
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Group Order Ebay Venture Patch Last Call
GolfVenture replied to GolfVenture's topic in Watering Hole
Ok, I got everyone up to here. -
Group Order Ebay Venture Patch Last Call
GolfVenture replied to GolfVenture's topic in Watering Hole
Got all the above orders. The Manufacture said as the patches are being made that orders will continued to be accepted thru this friday. -
So I did pretty much the same thing. I Filled up with a can of Seafoam then rode over 100 miles. Filled Up, changed the oil, put the battery tender on. The thing I see that you did was to shut the fuel off then run the bike until it quits so one emptys the carbs. If so then should one also put the choke on at the end before the engine dies so to remove more of the gas out of the carb?
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No I've not. But I've found this, and will get to it this week. Thank you all for your suggestions. I know that I'll need to ask some questions on the below instruction. Ok don't shoot the messenger but: Looking for a way to clean carbs and ensure jets are clear without taking carbs off... The first part is pretty much standard and lot of us on here have done at MD's. Take tank and top center air box off. Drain carbs, open 4 drain screws then close. If you take fuel line off at center rear of carbs and spray full, this will effectively place cleaner in all your carbs. let sit 30 min. drain carbs, open drain screws. (leave open) ---part I would like to add--- Take diaphram(s) and needle slides out. Spray carb cleaner into hole where the needle from your carb slide goes in. It should be your high speed jet? Spray carb cleaner into small hole inside top of carb. It should be your pilot jet? Spray carb cleaner into hole at the "T" sections of your carbs will be your overflows. Close your drain screws.
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ok, on keying on several times to fill up the bowls. I've done it so much today that the gas indicator has dropped 1 bar. I think I need to figure why each time I turn the key on and hit the starter after the fuel pump stops pumping after 5 seconds that fuel just gushes out the over flow in front of the rear tire. I mean it just gushes out the overflow. Now going on the thought that the 3 carbs, when I remove the bowl screw/jet one at a time, that when I turn the key on and the fuel pumps stops clicking that fuel should be escaping out the bowl screw/jet. I took a stand of a long thin wire and slid it into the bowl screw/jet hole of one screw. afterwards still no fuel coming our the screw/hole. Fustrated in Seattle.
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ok, thats a thought. So going back a bit, when I remove the screw to the float bowl of each of the other 3 carbs one at a time and then turn the key on activating the fuel pump, no fuel came out of the screw hole but fuel does pore out the overflow for each of the 3 carbs. Just a ?. when I attempt to start, while looking down the carb throat and hitting the starter, am I supposed to see the butterfly moving back and forth or are they suppose to just stay unmoved. I know when last year with the engine running and looking down the throat the butterflys were fluttering.
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ok, it looks like it is the front left carb. When I remove the screw to the float bowl of each carb one at a time and turn the key on the front left carb leaks fuel out of the screw hole while none from the other 3. Also when I look down into the throat of the carb the same front left carb is all wet with fuel. I tried to tap on the float bowl in hopes to loosen the float but no luck. Per Venturous, suggestion of emptying the bowl and blowing air into the hose, any specific instructions would be appreciated.
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I have an 89 VR. The last I rode it was mid Oct 2010 of which I just finished most of a tank full of seafoam. Did some minor maintenance. The only maintenance ignition and carb related was changed new plugs. It has been on the center stand with a battery tender all this time. I did start it once in the winter and allowed it to warm up really good. That was before I changed the plugs. Got the exact same plugs and cerified the manufactured gap. I turn the key and heard the clicking of what I think is the fuel pump. After 10 seconds the clicking slowed and stopped. I pulled the choke, made sure the run switch was on and then hit the starter. It turns over good. I was expecting that about the 3rd hit to the started I would get some form of life in the V4. The engine did kind of start as I kept on the starter and the choke, but could not sustain it self. I stopped and looked on the floor and saw a large puddle of fluid. I pushed the VR forward then smelled the liquid and yes it is fuel. With it on the side stand I noticed that fuel was leaking by the dampness indicator on the left side. But thats probably because I had put it on the side stand. I removed the left side cover and could see what I think is the mono shock and it looks really wet like fluid is leaking on it. Any suggestions?
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