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Everything posted by GolfVenture
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Thanks, I'll run till the cooling fan kicks in. I'll also take them out for a ride the next time weather is good so any moisture does not sit very long. Glad I posted.
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Decided to give both my seafoamed VRs a mid winter start. Both started up just fine. Going to let them run for about 15 minutes.
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How much does it weight empty?
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My Plumbing Leak Fix Plan - Your Thoughts.
GolfVenture replied to GolfVenture's topic in Watering Hole
Wow, guess I haven't kept up on the state of the art plumbing fixes. Thanks everyone. I'll check your suggestions out. -
My Plumbing Leak is Found - Need Advise Please
GolfVenture replied to GolfVenture's topic in Watering Hole
Home was built in 1988. And I think the warentee was 10 years if I recall. -
The Drain Pipe has no room for me to seperate at the leaking joint. At the Bottom the Drain Pipe goes into the cement floor. Above the Drain Pipe has a T for the Vent and the horizontal drain connection to the sink/dishwasher. This drain connection goes through the 2 x 6 and so the drain Pipe hole has absolutely no give in it. So see attachment for my solution. 1st picture is the leak at the 1st picture at the point where the vertical pipe goes into the curve piece. 2nd picture is my plan of the fix. By so doing it provides me some give so I can make all the connections. Anyone see any issue with the solution?
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My Plumbing Leak is Found - Need Advise Please
GolfVenture replied to GolfVenture's topic in Watering Hole
Thank You for all the suggestions. First this is the origional construction, for it was my new custom home, and I've not done any previous plumbing fix. With that that in mind what looks like silcone, It really just an unclear picture. For if it was silcone I could with a sharp knife peel it off. I've taken a different camera hopfully for a better picture. See attached. With that I can't imagine a licensed plummer using silcone. Well I'm in no hurry to close up the rock and so what ever fix is done I'll let the dampness dry. I'll bring in additional heat and fan the area for several days. The only black mold found was at the very bottom of the rock near the basement floor. I will incure to cut out and replace with new rock and insullation. I will with latex gloves put 50/50 water/bleach from the top of the ceiling let it drop down to soak into the wood to ensure to fight any hidden mold. You have helped me understand the problem of fixing it in such tight quarters and little pipe space. I looked at the problem again and an idea came to me. The main problem is getting pipe room to dismantle and put together without the danger of possibly creating new cracks, even tho the glued fittings are stronger than the pipe itself. After standing way back and looking at the entire wall, I think I have a good fix. I'll send a drawing. The additional piping would give me enought flex in the pipe to get a good tight pip fit, without jepordizing any other glued fittings. -
See Picture So as the drain pipe comes down the main floor wall from the sink area, it has to make a inward jog so the pip can come inside and down the cement wall into the basement. The leak is all along the circurmfrance of the long verticle basement pipe where it fits inside curved pipe. So what is the best way of fixing it?
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I ended up opening the entire length of the wall 16 in wide and the wood at the top is wet. So now I have to open up the ceiling. I will have about 2 feet to work with for my cement walls are 1 ft taller than normal for I had it made that way so I could fit my boat in the basement garage. This is turning really ugly, but I'm getting closer.
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hmm. I just noticed that upstairs the drain pipe is on the right side of the 2 x 6 and in the basement the drain pipe is on the left side of the 2 x 6. Maybe thats because the framing on the basement is inside the cement wall and the framing on the main floor is on top of the cement wall would account for the off alignment of the framing and would allow the drain pipe to be a straight piece down from the verticle T to the basement clean out. But then there could be an angle piece to bring the drain pipe next to the 2 x 6 just below the floor joist in the basement. With that guess I'll open iup a 16 " by 12" from the ceiling in the basement. Open to any thoughts while I go to home depot to pick up another stud finder.?
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Removing the kick plate was the 1st thing I did and no leak found. Last night I cut out the back of the cabnett where the Verticle T intersection is. Picture attached. As the pipe went through the flow 2 x 6 plate I felt that yellow spray on foam insullation. This morning: Just filled both deep sinks and let them both drain. No leak found in the basement. Now ran a dishwasher rince cycle with both sinks filled and the leak drenched an entire paper towel and more. Had there been a leak above the yellow foam insullation that a paper towel around the foam would pick up some water. No leak found above the foam insullation. So I'm thinking that from the Verticle T interection, then down that would be a straight unspliced piece of drain pipe to the clean out in the basement room. Well maybe there might be a splice, but I wouldn't think that splices would be allowed by code or could it. With that assumption maybe the explaination that a rock nail or screw may have pierced the drain pipe and after the nail/screw began to rust the leak began and worst as it rusted more. I like the idea of cutting only a 16 " width piece. Of course I can't find my stud finder when I need it. Thought I could locate all the screws/nail and see if one is off center towards the drain pipe. Guess I'll need to go purchase another one.
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I'd like to talk to a plumber about my water leak. Any takers. If you reply I'll look up your phone in your profile. Thanks
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Open up the rock underneath the sink above the basement. Oops I did an (ASSUME) only with out the U. The main drain pipe made an immediate left turn. Then I realized that I should have taken an accurate measurement in the basement from the corner wall to the leaking drain pipe (4 ft 5 in ). Then at the sink measured from the corner (4 ft 5 in). The sink drain pipe is another 3 ft more from the 4 ft 5 in mark. Also after the drain took that left turn the pipe gently angles down. So my question is? Is the 4 ft 5 in the actual place the drain pipe turns down from the upstair to the basement. Probably. I then went onto the roof and located the vent pipe. Using the skylight as reference for both the roof and the kitchen, the vent pipe is 1 ft left of the skylight, and at the sink the same 1 ft left of the skylight. So that means I need to open up the wall behind the actual kitchen cabinett. I was lucky that the sink area did not have a wood wall but exposed rock. So my plan is to cut through the backing of the cabinett around the 4 ft 5 in area or about 2 inches left of the center cabinett front verticle brace. What I opened up so far under the sink is not wet nor damp. Any suggestions before I open the cabinett backing. See more pictures. Will be taking a break for a Chriopratic apt. I'm thinking this is better than opening up the basement wall for if the leak is above the basement ceiling then I will not have to do a patch job on the rock in the basement. While all the work in the sink area are hidden. Last resort is to open up the basement wall. Good Plan?
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The sheet rock was applied in the early 1990s. I do not know how long it has been leaking. The sheet rock by the floor was all black. There were no standing water but the carpet and pad in about 2 feet radus was damp. We do not run the dishwasher that often so the water leakage would have time to evaporate some. I hope the leak is behind the sink wall and accessable. I hope a sheet rock nail did not puncture the drain pipe in the basement wall, for if it did then I would have to open the sheet rock up. The patching wouldn't look very good afterwards. Tomorrow will tell.
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Glad I asked for I would not have thought about opening the wall under the sink. I will do that tomorrow and report back.
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here are the pictures
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Before I tear the basement wall appart, sure would appreciate some plumbing and subflooring insite for I've no building experience. While remodeling my basement I discover a plumbing leak in a basement bedroom. The leak at first appeared to be near the clean out but after some investigation the leak is coming from way above the cleanout. The concrete wall is 66 feet long and it is about 3 feet from the corner of the side wall. Above the leak on the main floor the kitchen sink/ garbge disposal /dishwasher is there. I've ran the washer machine and while in the drain cycle it uses different plumbing about 12 feet away on the side wall of the house. That then leaves the kitchen sink/ garbge disposal /dishwasher for they are right above the plumbing leak. Now this last summer I put in new engineered wood floor on the main part of the house above the basement. I cut the nonollieum up to the kitchen cabnette and left nonollieum under the dishwasher. The refriderater does have water and ice. I therefore did not disturb anything 2 feet from the wall. I first ran water into the sink and after some time no leak found. Then I ran the dishwasher and during the drain cycle that is when the leak was found. Then when I add the sink water with the dishwasher the leak is worst. I've added 2 pictures. Now the house is about 24 years old and it was my custom built home. The basement stood unfinished and unstudded for about 3 years and the leak was not there when the basment was finished 3 years later. Could it be as simple as maybe pouring something down the drain so the chemical can find it way into the leak and fuse it together. OR Is the only thing to do is to just open the wall up and then go from there? Thanks for your advise.
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Nice looking VR. The car kind of looks like a mid 60s Chrysler. What year and model is it?
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What is my 76 Chev Worth as a Parts car?
GolfVenture replied to GolfVenture's topic in Watering Hole
Well I was initially answering his carigs list add for some small parts. Now he wants to see if he can get it started at my place. The part at my place is something that I'm not too keen on. I would prefer that he just tows to his place. I told him that the origional head was cracked for steam came out the exhaust and I got a used head from the wrecking yard and I got it running only it ran really ruff. I may have gotten the timing chain off. I intended to make another attempt at the head later. Well you know how time flies. It has been over 10 years now. -
What is my 76 Chev Worth as a Parts car?
GolfVenture replied to GolfVenture's topic in Watering Hole
Well we settled on $375 if I would hold it till the end of the month. Thank you all for your input. It was very helpful and entertaining. -
Someone drove by and inquired if I was interested in selling my 76 Chev Luv (156K miles). It is in really bad shape. Has a cracked head and has been parked for 15 years. I'll attach some pictures. The only thing I know about parts vehicle is that I'm looking for a 90 to 93 1st gen for parts for about $500.00. If readers could give me their opinion I'd appreciate it.
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Wish it was for a 1st Gen.
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My son when he returns from his 4th Afgan Tour wants to get a Ducati Monster 696. Does anyone have any experience on this bike?
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My daughter and her husband is looking at them for the mileage claim is pretty darn good for a sport utility. Like to know the pros and cons of this vehicle.
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Venturous has this solution Title of the Thread. Lubing the speedo on a 1st gen