GolfVenture
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Posts posted by GolfVenture
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This may be a stupid question...but...
For those who have spare carbs and fuel pumps, whats a good way to store them for a long, long time so the rubber pieces and gaskets do not dry out until you need them.
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Congratulations to you and your wife's 25th.
I do not know how accurate this is but I'm guessing it probably close...just interesting
Found it on the Internet. :-)
Percentage of married people who reach anniversaries:
5th: 82%
10th: 65%
15th: 52%
25th: 33%
35th: 20%
50th: 5%
Hope you reach the 35th then the 50th and more...
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How about this song...
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izQB2-Kmiic&feature=player_embedded]Zager And Evans - In The Year 2525 - YouTube[/ame]
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Well, I've tried to incorporate all your suggestions from a previous thread for a 1st Gen Patch. I think I'm pushing my luck with the manufacture if I request 1 more change for this project has been going on all winter long. Recovering from 3 Wrist/Hand surgerys, I needed something Venture related to do. But if you have a change I'll consider it.
I've included as many colors to represent the variety of 1st Gen Colors in hopes to appeal to as many 1st Gen Owners. Trying to match colors of thread to the Venture colors was a challenge. So for those that own Black, the patch background is Black and Black comprises the majority of the batch. Besides Black On Black ???. Did Someone say Silver, well the Crown is Silver. I tried to come as close as I could to the Available Colors. You might ask why then the Yellow on the crown. Well I really like the Yellow of Dingy's VMax and Dingy's Yellow VMax is the only Vmax I've seen. I know his Yellow VMax is a custom paint. But what the heck...
I'm still waiting for a response from the manufacture as to the smallest patch they would recommend to make, for some of the details are quite small.
When I get the variety of Sizes they recommend and their prices, I'll post a new thread...
Meanwhile enjoy the Patch...I hope it appeals to many for I can't count the number of revisions the manufacture did for me.
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While cleaning and lubing the carb and choke linkage, I noticed that one of my plungers were bent. That explains why my choke lever would never go past the half way point.
I was able to remove the plunger. Attached is a picture.
I was wondering if anyone has a non usable carb laying around with a spare plunger. PM me if you do.
Now my thoughts are if I try to straighten it will it break off. And if it does not then how strong is the tip. Will it break off later.
Whats the best method in straighting the brass plunger?
The other question is how does a plunger get bent in the 1st place?
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If those are 1st gens then mine is?
(My Calculator)
1+1=2
3*3=9
7-4=3
You're just smarter than the average bear...
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my calculator is a first gen.....
No No No... My Calculators are THE 1st Gen...
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Anyone have a Left Fairing Pocket Cover. I'm looking for one that will accomodiate all the
radio stuff. Stupid me, while I was working in the dark, I had an old lamp without a shade I used for light. I had it dangling from the handle bar. Well the dinner bell rang. When I returned, the light bulb got a little too close to the fairing cover. There is a slight melted section. Not really bad about 3/4 inch long along the edge. I was lucky for the damage could have been really bad. The rest of my cover looks like new. I'm just a bit picky, just tring to keep the old girl in as nice as condition as possible.
I thought about using PlasticX but trying to reproduce the ruff texture would be a challenge. And the result would probably look worst than what it is currently.
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ok, the Legend acted up again. I dropped my wife off at the entrance of the mall, then went to find a parking stall, and I waited for her in the car but I parked a ways away.
A few minutes later I saw a car pull out near the entrance and I wanted to move the car closer to the entrance. So I tried the starter. The engine cranked over just fine but did not start. I happen to leave the key in the on position and tried the starter a couple more times. No luck. So I sat with the key still in the on position listening to the radio for a few more minutes. I noticed all the dash warning lights, then I heard a definative click then the check engine light went off. So I tried the starter and the Legend started right up and so I moved the car to that open stall.
I shut the engine off, then turned the key back on and I noticed the Check Engine light was off. So I tried the starter and it fired right up.
I shut it off and waited a few minutes then turned the key on and the check engine light was on again. And again the engine would not start.
So I left the key on and soon I heard a definitive click and the check engine light went off and the engine started right up.
Any Ideas...Besides takening the car in for repaires...
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I've included a picture of mine. First of all it is only a single spacer and not a set. It goes on the front axle opposite side of the speedo unit.
Whenever my English is not good, I always use the excuse that English is not my 1st language. Roto = Rotor :-)
What looks like a single piece is actually 2 pieces. The outer metal piece is a dust cover.
If you end up ordering one you can use a rubber hammer, the right size socket that can be tapped to remove the metal dust cover.
You can see that the spacer has a slight lip near the center. That is the dust cover stop point.
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zoey04... is in need of a roto cover spacer for his MKII. I was in this same problem when I bought my used roto cover and it did not come with the shorter spacer. I was lucky for my machineist friend took the measurement and made one for me.
I'm starting this group buy thread to see if there might be others who bought a used roto cover without the shorter spacer. And the roto covers are now in a box or hanging up on your garage wall and you've given up on installing them.
If you are interested in one, then please post a response that you are interested in one. This is not a commitment to buy but rather to gather a number of potential orders.
Once I get a number of interest I will then as what my friend would charge per each for a specific quantity. We'll go from there....
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I ran into the asme issue when I installed my roto covers. I bought the roto covers used and it did not come with the new spacer. I'm guessing that you did not get the new spacer with it. also. I'll have to do some checking but I should have the proper measurements that needs to be taken of your spacer.
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Alls Well That Ends Well.
I've found a solution that hopfully many can use. I work in an office where we keep the paper mills busy. We go thru reems of paper like no other. These reems of paper comes in a nice boxes that most companies just throw away or recycle. I'm sure many of you or your spouses or maybe your neighbors can bring home, if you ask them.
I've attached a picture of an origional reem box on the left, then on the right the box turned inside out. Then a USPS Medium Flat Rate box in the middle.
The reem box is a bit taller but you can cut the size to fit your needs. Something that the USPS boxes are not able to do.
USPS charges $12.95 (plus tax..I think) for the USPS Medium Flat Rate box. When I turned the USPS Box inside out I was charged only $5.80. Now my package was very light for it only included 3 MKII Pouches and the rest fill with Styrofoam chips. Oh, yes and I do save most of my styrofoam chips in a large plastic garbage sack. Now I was told the rough break even point is about 10 lbs for a USPS Medium Flat Rate Box.
It took a few minutes and a little bit of packaging tape. But the savings is worth my time for my wife mails packages all the time to my son, daughter, grand kids.
My office also uses paper that is around 11 X 17 sheets. So I have access to some larger boxes.
Hope this brings this thread to a very happy and usefull ending.... :-)
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I just did the OEM replacements from Sirius. I wanted to leave the slides undamaged as I understand with the JBM's you have to remove the plastic rings to install them.
If you use the Sirius set, you can always replace them again. With the JBM set you would have to use only the JBMS's again because of removing the retaining ring.
The install was slick and fairly quick using a bit of silicone spray.
The Sirius SD1X4 set improved the starting, idle smoothness and performance so far. Take awhile to determine fuel use decrease. Fit was same as OEM.
Total on Sirius set was $92.49 including shipping.
My
Tks...This is good to know for I'll probably be needing new ones soon also.
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Tks. I got them off without breaking off the tabs.
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Once the single screw is removed from each fairing side air vent then whats the procedure in getting them off of the fairing?
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My left has some road rash. It probably complements MarCarl's right. Anyone interested in MarCarls right and my left crash bar?
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I might have a left front, but won't know until I get home later this evening?
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I may be beating a dead horse, but all this talk of vacuuming and drilling around the gas tank is scaring me. I certainly don't want to learn that this exercise in cleaning a tank has resulted in singed eyebrows or much worse.
A friend of mine was installing a gas tank in a car last fall when it exploded. The force of the blast broke his neck and he has spent the last several months recovering. The tank he was installing had been sitting empty and open to the atmosphere (through the removed fuel pump port) for several days and yet...
As I have said before, the use of any electrical tool, be it shop vac or electric drill in the vicinity of the open gasoline tank is an accident waiting to happen.
Brian, the creation of a hole in the filler neck is a Second Generation tip to allow more fuel. I am not certain that it is an issue with the First Generation. Even if you decide it is important, do not use an electric drill motor to create this vent hole.
If you feel you must clean the rust with a wire brush, use a brass (non sparking) wire brush.
Be safe. I am continually amazed at the lackadaisical attitude people exhibit when it comes to gasoline. Gasoline and it's fumes are dangerous!
I'll get a brass wire brush.
Has anyone, did the hole in the neck on a 1st gen. What if I use a hand cranking drill?
i do want to be safe.
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I got the sending unit off. The tank looks really clean. A tiny tiny bit of debree.
Whats the recommended way of removing the rust at the very top of the tank neck?
Afterwards I'll get a couple of gallons of paint thinner and pore it down the tank.
Swich it around some then use some fuel line to syphon out the debree and the paint thinner. Then let it dry.
While I’m at this point, about a year ago several members recommended putting a hole near the top of the neck so one can get more fuel in. On a 1st Gen where does one do that?
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The very bottom of the tank should be examined. Remove the fuel level sending unit for access.
-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
'83,88
Can you give me an idea where this sending unit is.
How to get to it.
What needs to be removed to get to it.
Do I need a new gasket for reinstall?
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I looked down the tank and at the very top of the neck there is a little bit of rust. Then looking at the seam inside the tank there appears to be some what might look like rust, very little if any.
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How about one put some gas in the tank then with a long clear fuel line syphon the gas out and hopfully get the debree out that way.
Is there a choke plunger setting? - MKII
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
I noticed that when I move my choke lever, the left set of plungers responds immediately, while the right 2 set's movement lags a bit significallently. When the choke is fully opened the left sets pulls out quite a bit more than the right 2 plungers.
I only see 1 screw for each plunger to tighten or loosen and that screw only seems to tighten the plunger bracket, but does not adjust the setting of the lever.
Or maybe do I need to bend the bracket a bit?