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BreezyCricket

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Everything posted by BreezyCricket

  1. BreezyCricket
    Thank you for the reply. When it was sealed with saran wrap did you get any buildup of condensation as a result of cooler overnight temperatures and, if so, how did you overcome this?
  2. BreezyCricket
    Thank you for the replies. I found 3 springs, 2 of the same size and another smaller one, and 2 ball bearings, so I guess this must be everything. One other thing. Did these radios come with a clear covering 'skin' like sometime comes with computer keyboards, and, if not, what prevents water from getting into the radio through the cutouts for the various buttons, which is what I found had happened when I opened mine?
  3. BreezyCricket
    Does anyone have a diagram of the insides of the radio handlebar switch, the one on the post just above the left hand grip that controls the 'Mute' and 'Search' operations. Even a list of what parts are inside would suffice because I removed mine to try to find out why it was not working properly and when I took it apart there were some funny sounds as everything went six ways to Sunday and I don't know how many parts I should be trying to find. Many Thanks.
  4. BreezyCricket
    Well, fortunately I am a real expert when it comes to fixing motorcycles and therefore, with a little minor assistance from some other contributors on this forum, I have managed to resolve my problem, and my number 2 cylinder is now working fine. That said, all jokes aside, the problem WAS the idle mixture. After I was told how to do it, I found that the previous owner, or one of them, had already worked on adjusting the fuel mixture and had removed the plugs and the idle screw on the number 2 cylinder had been backed off about 6 turns, making the richness of the fuel mixture more than slightly too lean. The one good thing that has come of this though is that I have learned more from this forum than I could have learned anywhere else and I certainly appreciate that. Also, as suggested by some contributors, I have re-located the TCI and the pressure sensor to the area above the airbox and these can now be accessed without removing anything other than the false tank cover, and my own modification, ie bending the supports for the ignition coils slightly forward, and inserting the holding screws for the coils from the rear rather than the front, I can now replace a coil by removing only the battery box. I certainly would like to thank everyone for the help and hopefully I will be able to return the favour some day.
  5. BreezyCricket
    I took my bike on a run after I had put everything back together, well maybe so because I do have a number of screws etc left over, and it appears that maybe my problem only exists at low RPM. At somewhere between 2,500 & 3,000 it seemed to even out, so I suspect it may have something to do with the idle mixture. Reading other posts I gather that it is necessary to drill out something that protects the idle mixture adjustment screw and would appreciate any additional information anyone could add, particularly anything that may have to do with what I could really screw up if I try to drill out this cover.
  6. BreezyCricket
    Still trying and I found this on another posting. I tried to send a message to the author but his postbox is full and my message could not be delivered, so I will try here. As written, "I had the same issue with my #2 carb on my 83. I checked everything I could possibly think of, including the electrical system. It turned out the Screw that held the main nozzle on the slide assy had come off. I opened up the carbs and put it back together and it ran like a champ." To clarify this information he added later, "I was refering to #26 and #28 carb section in parts catalog. Page B6." Does anyone know where I can find this catalog to view what is being referred to, or, at least, a diagram which shows the information. Many Thanks.
  7. BreezyCricket
    I always wondered where the saying, 'It sucks', to describe something that is bad or doesn't work, came from.
  8. BreezyCricket
    The plug on no 2 cylinder was extremely wet. As to the synchronization, I got hold of one of those thingamajigdomehickies to do this and started with the engine cold. As per the instructions, I connected the tubes and started the motor to allow it to warm up, and I had immediate heat on number 2 cylinder. Could this mean that it was firing and, if so, how come? The readings I got indicated that all the carbs were perfectly synchronized which led to my previous question, which has been answered. I removed this equipment and the next morning started the motor again and I was back to square one. There was no heat on cylinder no 2. After finding the posting on the 'Jason Mod', I decided to try this and did the hook-up. Next morning I started the engine again and had immediate heat on cylinder no 2. I therefore have the situation that if the tube for the pressure sensor is connected I have no heat on cylinder no 2 when I start, and if I connect anything else to this connection, I do. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  9. BreezyCricket
    Thank you for the info, and I now have another question, or two. I judge as to whether cylinder 2 on my bike is missing, at least at low rpm's, is by starting it from cold and then feeling the block in the region of the exhaust manifold to see if I can detect heat. If I do this on the other 3 cylinders I certainly do detect heat, but cylinder 2 remains cold and I assume this is because it is not firing. Is this correct? Also, if this IS correct, would I get any meaningful readings if I tried to synchronize the carbs with this cylinder playing dead?
  10. BreezyCricket
    I am still working on my problem but came across a posting on one of the forums regarding a modification called the 'Jason Mod'. If I understand this correctly, what is required apparently is that the 2 nipples on cylinder's 1 & 2 be connected, and the same with the 2 on cylinder's 3 & 4. I really don't know what I am doing so could be completely wrong, but my question for the experts then is, connecting the 2 on cylinder's 1 & 2 would mean disconnecting the tube to, I think, the pressure sensor and if this is correct, why is the pressure sensor required?
  11. BreezyCricket
    Hi Dingy: Thank you for the offer of the image. If you could E-Mail it to thegallowglass@gmail.com I certainly would appreciate it. Cheers.
  12. BreezyCricket
    I've removed the TCI and opened it to see if there is possibly a problem with one of the internal connections and, as usual, I have another problem. I removed 5 screws holding the board to the casing, at least I assume they do, and would appreciate if someone could tell me if the board should just lift out or should I also undo the 4 nuts which are situated near the plugs. It seems the end plugs that the wiring harness plugs into should also be connected to the board somehow and I sure would hate to wreck something there.
  13. BreezyCricket
    I have a 1984 Venture Royale.
  14. BreezyCricket
    I haven't ridden this bike for a few years but even with the miss on cylinder #2 then I don't recall any problem with the tachometer. Regardless, I managed to remove the brown 'hood' from the display panel and find that all the instruments are enclosed in a white box which I can't figure out how to detach from the frame so that I can get at the connections and would appreciate if someone could enlighten me on this. If not I can see the Gy wire so will be able to cut this for testing and can re-connect it again afterwards. The voltmeter has never worked and something I did notice is that there are 3 connectors to this, but there are only 2 wires connected, a brown and a black, which I assume is the ground. Does anyone know if there should be a 3rd wire connected.
  15. BreezyCricket
    Thanks to all for the replies. I replaced the ignition coil I thought was causing the problem and this did not help. I then considered the possibility that the pickup coils may be faulty but thought that if this was the case it would most probably affect 2 cylinders, until I read the posting from 'bald dash' explaining the operation of these to me which led to the possibility that maybe something had happened which could have altered the gap of one of the coil sensors, which was highly unlikely, but nevertheless if it is possible to check this I certainly would like to know how to do it. However, being, by now, a reeeal expert, I intend to replace the TCI and will see what happens then. I hope to be able to acquire one on eBay but if I am not successful I certainly would appreciate hearing from anyone who may have one available for sale. Cheers.
  16. BreezyCricket
    Thank you for the reply, and I am glad I waited for an answer before getting out my file. My whole problem started with one cylinder not firing and through trial and error, and considerable help from others on this forum, I am slowly checking everything. I have checked the resistance of the pickup coils and all are within specs, but if your information is correct, and I have no doubt it is, I think a possible reason for my woes could be that the gap on one of the coils my be incorrect and therefore no signal is being picked up for the problem cylinder. If I am correct, do you know of any way I can check this?
  17. BreezyCricket
    I bought a set of used pickup coils, supposed to be in good working condition, and when they arrived found that they must have been found in a dump somewhere because they are in disastrous condition. I cleaned the contacts in the plug without too much problem, but even using an assortment of cleaning products have been unable to get the 4 silver contact points, I have no idea what they are called, in the coils themselves clean. Can someone tell me if these work the same as points in a car ignition system with the gap being of utmost importance, or can I use a file to get them nice and shiny without causing any problems. Then again, is it really necessary for them to be 'nice and shiny'? Many Thanks.
  18. BreezyCricket
    I'm baaack! While waiting for some parts to arrive, I have been googling anything that I thought may be useful and came across a question regarding whether or not there should be oil behind the stator cover. The consensus of opinion seems to be that there may be some, maybe only an ounce or so, but no more. Well this is not what I found. When I removed the stator cover all the oil, or nearly all of it, drained. Is there something wrong somewhere or could the angle of the bike have a bearing on this. Mine is sitting on the centre stand, leaning slightly to the left.
  19. BreezyCricket
    Does anyone have any recommendations as to where the best place is to buy an after market stator, or is it best to stick to an OEM replacement.
  20. BreezyCricket
    Thanks to all for the help. It finally went, as mrich12000 says, 'wolla' and popped off so I guess it was the shaft that was causing the problem. 2 more things if everyone will bear with me. One cog came off, top left which I assume is part of the starter and I can't see any difference front to back but is there a right and a wrong way for this to be installed? The other is the stator. Is there some way I can test this to determine if there is anything wrong with it?
  21. BreezyCricket
    I have removed the circlip but did not slide it in because the case does not appear to be hung up on it.
  22. BreezyCricket
    Actually it is not the gasket that is holding it. There is a gap of about a quarter inch all around, more if I pull on it, but it just won't 'pop off', and I don't know where to place a screwdriver, or something else, to apply leverage without causing damage.
  23. BreezyCricket
    I've removed the middle gear cover and all the bolts around the main case cover but it still won't pull off. What do I do, hook it up to my 5 ton truck and pull or is there an easier way?
  24. BreezyCricket
    I am trying to take off the cover so that I can (possibly) replace the pickup coils on my bike while I have it all apart and have removed all the screws and the shifter but the cover won't come off. Something seems to be holding it. There is a nut right in the centre which can be seen when the circular cover in the main housing is removed but this does no seem to be the problem, but then again, what do I know. Can someone tell me if there is something else I should undo to enable me to remove this? I sure would hate to end up with a lot of pieces all over the floor. Many Thanks.
  25. BreezyCricket
    I thought I should post this because it may explain some problems with working on these bikes. A few years after the Ventures were introduced I was told by a Japanese acquaintance who claimed to have worked for Yamaha that a considerable amount of input into the design of these bikes came from representatives of Yamaha Dealers who wanted something so difficulty to work on that the majority of buyers would have the Dealers do any maintenence or repairs. I don't know if this is true, but when I consider that if the plate to which the coils are attached were angled forward about 20 or 30 degrees, and maybe even less, and the bolts (screws) holding the coils in place were inserted from the rear of the machine rather than from the front, changing a coil would be a snap, so I suspect there just may be something in this story. Of course I may be completely wrong, but If I ever get them out I certainly will try to re-install them this way.
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