ragtop69gs

Monty, take a look at the shadow Ace Tourer 1100cc with hard bags and windshield. Nice bikes and easy to handle. There's a few for sale on THIS forum I'm a member of. It's what I had before the RSV. Take it from one who's wife also rides, you will both enjoy the ride with two bikes Get the bike now and pick one of the trips to put off this year. You've heard it before... HAPPY WIFE, HAPPY LIFE

Yes, Myself and a few others I know. I lost 1 bolt and had another 2 that were loose. You can buy the bolts at any ford dealer. I always keep a few spares in the trunk. It's the torx bolts to the right of the u-joint. They are known to come loose, even on ford cars using that rear end.

To Everyone with a Hannigan kit, Take a few minutes and check the tightness of the torx head bolts that secure the driveshaft to the rear end. They are known to come loose and disappear at the worst possible time.

Wow Carl ! Thank you for this post it's going to help lots of us rookie wrenches feel a bit better about getting into the forks. Thank you.

Thanks Carl, How do I instal the new ones without damaging Them? Sorry if I'm asking the obvious, I've never had forks apart before.

I'll be rebuilding my forks as soon as the parts get here. Looking at the factory service manual, it does not really say HOW to R&R the bushings, any pointers would be most appreciated. Any special tools needed for the bushings?

When you first start the bike feel the exhaust pipes at the cylinders, you are looking for cold cylinders. If 1 or 2 are cooler than the others then you may have a coil problem. Let us know what you find.

Don't mean to get technical on ya BUT,,, vacuum pumps SUCK

Get the Utopia adjustable backrest, you'll be glad you did.

All of the above are good suggestions. I have found the vacuum pump to be the best method along with tickling the clutch lever to release the micro bubbles trapped in the top.

Here is my parts list, anyone see missing parts or un-needed parts for the fork redo ? . .Gasket, Drain Plug Yamaha item: 3MA-23163-10-00 Old Sku: 3MA-23129-10-00 $2.36 2 increase decrease remove $4.72 . .Metal, Slide 1 Yamaha item: 4NK-23125-00-00 $8.37 2 increase decrease remove $16.74 . .Metal, Slide 2 Yamaha item: 4NK-23135-00-00 $5.44 2 increase decrease remove $10.88 . .Seal, Dust Yamaha item: 4NK-23144-00-00 $9.00 2 increase decrease remove $18.00 . .Oil Seal Yamaha item: 4NK-23145-00-00 $9.30 2 increase decrease remove $18.60 . .Washer, Oil Seal Yamaha item: 4NK-23146-00-00 $2.98 2 increase decrease remove $5.96 . .O-Ring Yamaha item: 4NK-23147-00-00 $0.95 2 increase decrease remove $1.90

Don, when you did the 99 did you do the bushings too? did they have much wear? What was the mileage on the bike? I need to order the fork parts soon. None of the threads I've read said anything about doing the bushings so I 'm thinking it is not common for them to go bad.

Next time she needs a bath I'll be happy to help. I guess we'll all get to see her naked when the map goes live .

Me 180# Don't think weight in saddlebags & trunk matter. I'm thinking Mobil 1 Syn. ATF (Dextron3) for fork oil, (equal to about an 11 weight fork oil). My goal is a firm but not teeth rattling either. My oil seals don't leak but while i'm in there.... My dust seals (aka guide boot) are cracked though. Looking at this micro fiche, I think I need to order numbers, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 15, 19 to do a fork rebuild. Not really sure I need all that, or maybe I'm missing something that I'll need.

What else should I replace while I have the front end torn down? We're talking a 2001 RSV with 73373 miles on the clock. I know fork seals, whats the preferred make & P/N ? What about the bushings? How do I know if they need to be replaced? How do I choose a fork oil weight? Head bearing repack will be done and possibly add a zerk to keep them lubed. Experienced hands are welcome to help as I've never done a fork job before. Food for labor gladly offered

Do you remember how to ride on two wheelz?

Hi Leo, When I swapped out my coolant jacket plugs I barely lost any of the green juice, I simply topped up the overflow tank and all was good.

Normally you do not need to open the rad cap, just check the overflow level and add from there if it shows low. As Pete said , it self bleeds. The only time you need to add from the rad cap is when you do a complete drain and fill, in those cases fill, run until thermostat opens, blip throttle several times to move trapped air up, top off, repeat a few times then replace cap. Check overflow after a ride while hot and after it cools. Add if needed.

Hi Derrick, glad to see you found you way here. I told you, great group here with lot's of info to share. Now you may as well pony up the $12 and join the insanity. Jay

Good luck on the bracket,,, I have never seen them used and in good condition on eb ay. New ones never go for much less than list.

Sorry for your loss Kic. RIP Sgt. Walker. Thank You for your service and ultimate sacrifice in service to our country. A visit to ANC is a truly inspiring and humbling experience . God Bless the souls who rest eternal there.

Geez,,, $12 for Spam that's taken from the trash! The cost of fine dining sho has gone up

I do believe that "zerk" is for greasing the rear brake pad lining so they don't squeek,,,, Don't worry about putting too much in there, any excess will fall on the rear tire and lubricitize the rubber alloy's thereby giving a lower rolling resistance, with a 7 MPG increase. I hope this helps to clear up your long standing mystery

Don't matter how many time I see him tell that story, I laugh every time