ragtop69gs

I found that the easiest way to remove the factory film from the shield it to use some good sticky tape, cover the shield with it then pull it off in big strips. I found that out the hard way when cutting my shield shorter. The tape I put on to protect it from scratches while using the jig saw, pulled the top 2 1/2" of coating off no choice but to do the rest.

14612 is what I've used for years or at least since since walmart got rid of their house brand.

That's ok,,, one day we'll all suffer from CRS!

I got this response from Hannigan Motorsports and thought I'd share it with everyone here. by Hannigan Motorsports http://www.triketalk.com/forum/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png Thanks so much to the OP for pointing out the absolute importance and necessity of proper and thorough PM (Preventive Maintenance). It goes without saying that a proper PM Routine & Regimen is necessary and warranted regarding any Machine. The level of such is directly proportionate to its Longevity and Enjoyment while minimizing unexpected and unfortunate Issues from arising. To address this specifically named area and Assembly/Parts, it is a Non-Issue and far from any concern at all when the Kit is installed as intended, instructed and trained. Those Bolts are indeed Ford/Motorcraft and come from the Manufacturer with Red Lock-Tite on the threads. As long as the Red Lock-Tite is present and they are properly torqued to 100 ft/lbs there will not be any issues or mishaps to occur. Should that Red Lock-Tite not be present due to non-OEM Bolts being used (should never be the case) or other such cause, then Installers are instructed to apply it prior to installation and the proper Torque value (again, 100 ft/lbs) is achieved and checked. In the VERY few Cases where any problem arose in this Assembly or the named Bolts, it can be directly attributed to improper Torque and/or the absence of Red Lock-Tite(inspection of the Bolts themselves quickly and easily prove this Fact) on the threads. That being said and true, the above Statement of Fact is not meant in any way to be construed as a derogatory judgment against or indictment of any Installer or Client in the least. In the "real-World", mistakes and oversights do occur even to the best of us. As the Adage goes, "To Err is Human" and we all have regardless of our best intentions and efforts. This unfortunate Fact is one of the main reasons and necessities for conducting proper PM & regular Inspections on all mechanical devices and Machines. We realize, applaud, and thank the vast majority of our Dealer and Owner Family for their diligence in performing such regularly and being a valued part of and contributor to our long-standing stellar Record & Reputation for both Quality & Longevity among the Trike, Sidecar, and Trailer Communities. Should anyone suspect this Issue or just wish to insure it is not present, simply pull one of those Bolts (kudos to Ragtop for the Pic above showing them and their location) and check for the presence of Red Lock-Tite on the threads. Reinstall to proper Torque value. Then check all of those Bolts for 100 ft/lbs of Torque. Then, add this Check to your current PM Check-List should it not already be. Again, we sincerely thank our great Friends RagTop for the valuable Reminder and the opportunity to discuss this with our honored Family here. John Hannigan Motorsports Murray, KY 270-753-4256 hannigan@apex.net www.hannigantrikes.com

Mine didn't fail but I replaced it anyway at 55K because I got a great deal on a low mileage shock. The original will sit on the shelf just in case.

not sure yet but I'm hoping to.

I'll be in London come middle of May for a CAV ride, if you still have it maybe I'll swing by.

I wouldn't let the mileage of your bike deter you. You already know they will run into the high 100K mile range. Our 2008 Hannigan/RSV is awesome and puts a smile on the face of all who get on it. Me I'd rather spend $15K than 30K

Puc, while you wait on larry,,,,, He took me for a ride in it and I gotta tell ya that those are a blast to ride in, lots of get up and go, plus they corner like a roller coaster. I'm still waiting on my chance to pilot that thing

My thought is that if you are pulling the carb rack then you are right there and wouldn't take much longer to check the clearances. At 37K miles you will most likely be good. We did mine at 57K and had to change 3 shims. My front end will look like that pretty soon.

Somebody was having fun with photoshop and is now sitting back laughing at all the Venture owners who have been waiting for a new release. You are all fodder for someone else's entertainment.

Monty http://www.tricitycycle.com/default.asp?page=xPreOwnedInventoryDetail&id=1163160&p=1&vc=cruiser&s=Year&d=D&t=preowned&vt=motorcycle%20%2F%20scooter&year=2000&fr=xPreOwnedInventory

Monty, take a look at the shadow Ace Tourer 1100cc with hard bags and windshield. Nice bikes and easy to handle. There's a few for sale on THIS forum I'm a member of. It's what I had before the RSV. Take it from one who's wife also rides, you will both enjoy the ride with two bikes Get the bike now and pick one of the trips to put off this year. You've heard it before... HAPPY WIFE, HAPPY LIFE

Yes, Myself and a few others I know. I lost 1 bolt and had another 2 that were loose. You can buy the bolts at any ford dealer. I always keep a few spares in the trunk. It's the torx bolts to the right of the u-joint. They are known to come loose, even on ford cars using that rear end.

To Everyone with a Hannigan kit, Take a few minutes and check the tightness of the torx head bolts that secure the driveshaft to the rear end. They are known to come loose and disappear at the worst possible time.

Wow Carl ! Thank you for this post it's going to help lots of us rookie wrenches feel a bit better about getting into the forks. Thank you.

Thanks Carl, How do I instal the new ones without damaging Them? Sorry if I'm asking the obvious, I've never had forks apart before.

I'll be rebuilding my forks as soon as the parts get here. Looking at the factory service manual, it does not really say HOW to R&R the bushings, any pointers would be most appreciated. Any special tools needed for the bushings?

When you first start the bike feel the exhaust pipes at the cylinders, you are looking for cold cylinders. If 1 or 2 are cooler than the others then you may have a coil problem. Let us know what you find.

Don't mean to get technical on ya BUT,,, vacuum pumps SUCK

Get the Utopia adjustable backrest, you'll be glad you did.

All of the above are good suggestions. I have found the vacuum pump to be the best method along with tickling the clutch lever to release the micro bubbles trapped in the top.

Here is my parts list, anyone see missing parts or un-needed parts for the fork redo ? . .Gasket, Drain Plug Yamaha item: 3MA-23163-10-00 Old Sku: 3MA-23129-10-00 $2.36 2 increase decrease remove $4.72 . .Metal, Slide 1 Yamaha item: 4NK-23125-00-00 $8.37 2 increase decrease remove $16.74 . .Metal, Slide 2 Yamaha item: 4NK-23135-00-00 $5.44 2 increase decrease remove $10.88 . .Seal, Dust Yamaha item: 4NK-23144-00-00 $9.00 2 increase decrease remove $18.00 . .Oil Seal Yamaha item: 4NK-23145-00-00 $9.30 2 increase decrease remove $18.60 . .Washer, Oil Seal Yamaha item: 4NK-23146-00-00 $2.98 2 increase decrease remove $5.96 . .O-Ring Yamaha item: 4NK-23147-00-00 $0.95 2 increase decrease remove $1.90

Don, when you did the 99 did you do the bushings too? did they have much wear? What was the mileage on the bike? I need to order the fork parts soon. None of the threads I've read said anything about doing the bushings so I 'm thinking it is not common for them to go bad.

Next time she needs a bath I'll be happy to help. I guess we'll all get to see her naked when the map goes live .