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ragtop69gs

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Everything posted by ragtop69gs

  1. ragtop69gs
    Mike, I have to have power to do your checks. Please re-read my original post # 1 especially where I plug the 2 lamp + leads back in. Why do I lose power as soon as I touch either lamp connector into the hot female side ? The fuse does not blow, but voltage drops to zero
  2. ragtop69gs
    I installed a new switch yesterday when I started on this. As I said the switch is new and inline with the hot side. The ground goes from the bulb to the light housing and that grounds thru the lightbar bolted to the fork. The lamps are sealed beam bulbs.
  3. ragtop69gs
    How's this one ?
  4. ragtop69gs
    PM sent to you. Both sides look the same.
  5. ragtop69gs
    When was this ? The conversion was done in December of 09. That's exactly what's happened to the rotors on the wife's trike.
  6. ragtop69gs
    I just got done replacing mine, they looked terrible but upon close inspection after removal none of the deepest and widest cracks were all the way through. I am glad I replaced them though, if only for piece of mind.
  7. ragtop69gs
    Carb sync and float levels were just done 3 weeks ago. Carbs are clean. It get seafoam every 3rd tank or so.
  8. ragtop69gs
    Done that 3 times and still the same outcome If I try it again expecting a different result, does that mean I'm insane? Seems kinda far fetched that both bulbs would burn out at the same time. I'll power each with jumpers from the battery just to be sure. Checking with a meter, all the wires and switch seem to be good There is no relay in the circuit yet, It's on the list.
  9. ragtop69gs
    After all this BS I rechecked the plug gap on the new plug and it was too small, re-gapped it to .035 and it seems to have been it ! The cylinder fires now and the pipe is getting hot, BUT, it doesn't heat up as fast as the other three ! What's up wit dat?
  10. ragtop69gs
    I went back and re-checked, pulled the plug cap, inserted a nail into the plug wire and have a good blue spark, replaced the cap, put a spark plug in it, again a good spark. Put cap back on plug in the cylinder and it still doesn't light the fire (cold exh. pipe)
  11. ragtop69gs
    I tried grounding the light bar, didn't help. I pulled each bullet connector (at both ends) and all were clean. I have voltage thru the switch up to the light lead connector when the positive leads to the lamps are disconnected, but not when they are plugged back in. When I plug either + lead in voltage drops to 0. I checked the ground continuity by placing one lead of the meter on the light buckets (thats where each bulb grounds) and the other on a motor mount bolt, that showed that I had ground. I even tried a jumper from the light bar to the battery ground.
  12. ragtop69gs
    I did, even put a new cap on the wire and cleaned the resistor and spring in the other caps.
  13. ragtop69gs
    It's actually quite easy to remove once the seats and trunk are off. There are only 4 bolts holding the body on.
  14. ragtop69gs
    My passing lights have quit working. I split the fairing to check it out and found that the switch , fuse and wiring are all ok. I pulled the the 2 + leads from the double bullet connector going to the lamps and checked voltage, I have 11.7v at that point. When I plug the 2 + leads back into the double bullet connector my voltage goes to 0.0v It is not blowing fuses. I have played with the wires going into the light bar and it still won'n light. Why would my voltage drop to 0 when I plug in those two + leads but not blow a fuse?
  15. ragtop69gs
    I swapped wires on the coil and still had a dead left cyl. Does anyone have any pointers on how to drop the rear cyl. coil packs so I can check the wiring. Is there a test that will tell if the ignitor is toast?
  16. ragtop69gs
    All Hannigan Trikes use a 7.5 inch Ford Thunderbird differential with 2.73 gears. I would find out what ford recommends and use what's spec'ed . I'd say it should be to the bottom of the hole. You don't need to worry about overfilling and blowing out seals because the housing is vented. You can see the vent tube coming off the top left of the pumpkin.
  17. ragtop69gs
    Couldn't be ! I don't own a Trike .
  18. ragtop69gs
    Lookin good ! Those pipes are an eyesore. Why they didn't use stainless pipe is beyond me, it may have added $10-20 to the cost, but would have been worth it.
  19. ragtop69gs

    Needed

    ragtop69gs replied to star4772's topic in Watering Hole

    Pinwall will have what you want. Check fleabay.
  20. ragtop69gs
    You must have more air in the left tire for counterbalance !
  21. ragtop69gs
    If ya really gotta know.... Larry's gonna kill me for this but, I recently came into possession of an old Turbine engine that were fitting into the frame. Our goal is to improve fuel economy by 50% and burn french fry oil. The best of both worlds food and fuel at the same stop.
  22. ragtop69gs
    Larry is correct. I jacked it from the Diff and it does lean when you get it off the ground. I never got the Hannigan manual, I called and talked to Jim last fall about getting a manual, he was supposed to send one but it never came. Here's a few pic of the bike on the stands while sitting in Larry's garage.
  23. ragtop69gs
    We have been using chain wax on it, spray it on the warm chain and it melts in, it doesn't fling either. Is the Teflon better ?
  24. ragtop69gs
    I need to replace the chain and sprockets on my daughters bike and I know nothing about either. What are some decent manufactures I can look at. Not looking for top of the line stuff just something that will hold up. Her bike is an '05 Suzuki GS500E.
  25. ragtop69gs
    The Marquee is still there from one that closed 10 years ago, right up the road from me. There is only one still running films around here and it's 40 miles away.
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