phertwo
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Thanks Flyinfool. I honestly don't know how to repay you guys for your hand-holding with helping me.. I will see if I can get some time to open those side covers tonight. I will take some pictures if anything looks a-miss. . . . I am getting a little riding in though, my girlfriend is taking me around town for coffee on the back of her Yamaha Vino scooter. Is it bad of me to admit that I actually am enjoying being a passenger even though its slightly embarrassing? I think that she likes it though. -
Well I did a little more testing last night. I measured the resistance of the stator from the white connector closest to the stator, under the seat area. White wire 1 to white wire 2 = ~0.3 ohms White wire 1 to white wire 3 = ~0.3 ohms White wire 2 to white wire 3 = ~0.3 ohms White wire 1 to ground (screw on clutch plate cover) = ~0.5 ohms White wire 2 to ground (screw on clutch plate cover) = ~0.5 ohms White wire 3 to ground (screw on clutch plate cover) = ~0.2 ohms I measured the AC voltage of the stator from the same white connector. White wire 1 to white wire 2 = ~30.0 VAC White wire 1 to white wire 3 = ~30.0 VAC White wire 2 to white wire 3 = ~2.1 VAC So I'm pointing my finger at the stator now. I have placed an order with Rick from Buckeye for the new high output stator but I will stick with the 2 stock regulators that I have. I'm not sure if the original one is faulty, but if it isn't then at least I have a spare. I also ordered a set of those Rivco horns that Buckeye sells since my stock horns are as loud as a turtle crying. I'll have to give an update when I get the new stator installed.. Any other thoughts?
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Thanks Freebird and Flyinfool, I will do these checks tonight. From that article it sounds like my alternator has gone bad. I will at least price the new one out - but I'm guessing the Buckeye high output stator will be much cheaper than the Dealer stock unit.
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Thanks for the response LilBeaver. This all is a little disheartening right now I'd have to admit. I could just try buying the new stator, but I hate throwing parts at a problem. I will try to do a little more probing. I suppose I could always try changing the rectifier output so that it just goes straight to the battery with new wiring. If it still doesn't charge the battery then I know it's the stator. I'm not looking forward to chopping up my wiring harness though. LilBeaver, if you could take those readings from your stator output that would be amazing. But, that's a lot of work to get to either of the connectors and I wouldn't expect anyone to go to that much trouble for me. I'm definitively not a fan of electrical problems!
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So the new regulator that I bought did not fix the problem. Its 2:29 still holding at the same voltage as before. So I did some probing around and found the following, perhaps someone can give me some feedback. I unplugged the regulator and checked the leads coming from the stator while the bike was running... White wire 1 to white wire 2 = ~32 VAC White wire 1 to white wire 3 = ~32 VAC White wire 2 to white wire 3 = ~2.1 VAC (this looks suspicious to me) While the bike was off... White wire 1 to white wire 2 = 0.3 ohms White wire 1 to white wire 3 = 0.3 ohms White wire 2 to white wire 3 = 0.3 ohms (seems to be in spec) While bike was off and battery removed... Red lead from regulator connector (connected to positive of battery) to Black lead from battery = inf. Ohms (no connection) Red lead from regulator connector (connected to positive of battery) to Red lead for battery post = 0 Ohms (open) Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to Black lead for battery post = 0 Ohms (open) Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to White wire 1 = 0.3 ohms Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to White wire 2 = 0.3 ohms Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to White wire 3 = 0.3 ohms (Is negative suppose to be connected to the stator? The wiring diagram does not elude to this.) Black lead from regulator connector (connected to negative of battery) to a Screw on clutch plate cover = 0 Ohms (Is the negative of the battery suppost to be connected to ground? Hence the screw on the clutch plate cover) So I'm not sure if this all looks normal, but it seems that the stator is connected to ground which is connected to negative. Could this explain why there is a fluctuating AC voltage running across my battery terminals when running? Do you think that the stator might be shot due to the low AC reading across wires 2 and 3? I'm thinking that my regulator and regulator wiring is fine right now, but maybe there is a stator problem? I'm open to suggestions...
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Thanks Dingy and MiCarl, I checked the main 30A fuse and it looks fine. I checked the stator resistance and its spot on at ~0.3 ohms. So narrowing it all down I decided to buy the new R/R from my local dealer. Yes, $165.. The dealer actually told me that its quite a good deal as other regulators go for more.. Whatever, he's not paying for it - I think its a rip. Before I go ahead and just simply plug in the new reg/rec I decided to do a bunch of other maintenance items,, seeing as how I started digging into the bike. So far i've... -cleaned and applied dielectric grease to all electrical connections -changed the final drive gear oil (man there was quite a lot of crap built up around the magnetic tip! I need to change this as often as the engine oil I think) -pulled the carbs, cleaned, adjusted the float heights -lubed the throttle cables -***changed the oil filter (syn. motor oil is still good for another while) I still have to... -Colortune to set the pms (once the carbs are back in) -New spark plugs -Carb sync. Have I missed anything? ***I started to think of why my R/R might have gone bad. Then I noticed that my oil filter sits really close to the R/R unit. I decided a little while ago to go with the FRAM 7317 filter, which is an auto filter, cheaper and longer than the stock one. However, the extra length of this filter brings it really close to the R/R (maybe Also, as an extra note, while I was cleaning my carbs with carb cleaner, I forgot to set aside the funky oring gaskets that seal in the float bowl covers. I noticed that the gaskets grew/swelled and got pretty sticky when I tried to assemble everything again. I should have known better as I am a Gasket and Rubber specialist, geez... So with chemically damaged orings and my unwillingness to go to the dealer to pay another arm and a leg for flimsy odd shaped orings, I took the float bowl cover to work. I created a drawing and had a few gaskets made up from some very high quality Viton B. So if anyone is in need of these gaskets, send me a message. So with everything back together I should have a well tuned up bike for the season. I'm certain that the weather will turn sour just as I'm ready to hit the road though. Although the weather never seems to stop me, except for ice. Thanks again!
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Solid information! I will check over things again tonight. Thanks again LilBeaver and to everyone else.
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Flyinfool - I was going to order the R/R, but I will wait until I check the three-wire connector from the stator. You make a good point. If the stator is wack, then the rectifier will give out bum readings. Thanks! Squidley, duly noted! I will stick to the stock unit for now. Condor, I remember reading something about these Indian Rectifiers somewhere, but I wasn't sure if they were for 1st gens. I couldn't find much about them while searching the net either. I think I will just get the stock unit from the dealer since its my fastest option. I don't want to miss out on the good weather any more. The dealer is ripping me off, but its still probably the best option. Partshark lists the part for $57, but shipping to canada is $45, not to mention duties and taxes, as well as the 10-15 business days.... Looks like the stealers will again.
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Okay my friends, I'm back with some results.. So I charged up the battery 100% (over 13V before start up), started up the bike and revved it at 5,550 rpm and I was reading a straight 12.49V, no fluctuation. So I then followed LilBeavers troubleshooting guide. 1) Charged the new battery 100%, was holding over 13VDC steady. Appears to be in working order. 2) I didn't check the resistance of the white connector plug (I am assuming the connector with the two wires as there are many 'white' connectors in that area - but all with multiple wires). The reason I didn't check this is because I have my tachometer probe wire hardwired into one of these wires and it will likely throw off the resistance readings. To answer your next question (huh?..), my tachometer has a special setting where it can read the rpm directly from an alternator. The tach has been working this way for a long while now, and I would likely think now that if my stator was fried then my tach would not work or give me bogus readings.. So for now I'm going to leave this one alone. If needed, I will revisit this. 3) I inspected the R/R connector plug again and it looks like it is in great shape. 4) I inspected the fuse box in the front (3 fuses) and everything looks good here. I couldn't find a main 30A fuse as the 3 fuses in the fuse box were 5, 10, 15 Amps. All connections are snug and clean. 5) Now this is a real give away I think, the AC voltage across the battery terminals. While the bike was running and revved at 5,550 rpm I saw AC voltage swing from +32 to 0.2 VAC in less than a second. I'm assuming that if the rectifier was working properly it would not permit AC voltage to run like this. The R/R looks busted to me. 6) Rev test shows 12.49VDC @ 5,500 rpm held steady for 20 seconds. No change in voltage. I'm thinking that I should be looking at ordering in a new R/R. Thoughts?
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Seriously, thanks for going to the trouble! I honestly never worry when I have bike trouble because I know that you guys are here to share your experiences and wisdom.
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I was thinking that.. the high output stator should have a matching high output R/R? I emailed Buckeye performance to see if they offer a matching R/R for their stator, but I haven't heard a response. Can anyone who has installed a Buckeye high output stator give me the definitive answer about the R/R? They don't list an R/R on their website.
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Ahhh I gotcha now! Okay, I will repeat the test and report back tomorrow. Thanks y'all!
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Thanks Beaver, I'll get to some serious work tonight. I'll repeat the running test as well. My multimeter is highspeed and I could see the voltage changes in fractions of seconds. I also did hold the engine for a while at a higher rpm, but i'm not sure if it was >5000 rpm. I will try again paying a little more attention to this. After I finish up I will report back. Thanks!!
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Thanks guys! This gives me some solid direction in diagnosing the problem. I will check all of this tonight and report back. And yes, Yamaha Canada rips us Canadians off bid time. I think its some kind of mandatory policy to ship the parts to the moon and back 3 times, hence why everything is so expensive. A few notes, my battery was fully charged up before I did the test with the voltmeter. And I did rev it at multiple rpms but didn't see a change on the voltmeter. I proabably got near 5000 rpms, but I disconnected the tach and every nonessential accessory electronic device. Before the failure I was getting something like 13.4V at normal idle. The plug on the R/R seems pretty solid, good connection, and when I disconnected it the pins and the inside of the connector look 'new' to me. So I'm going to print out your instructions LilBeaver and try to get to the bottom of this. Hopefully it is the same problem/solution as Ediddy's problem.
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$165 for the regulator, they have to order it in. I guess there is no way to test the regulator that I have with a multimeter?
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Sorry Condor, I was going on memory. I think it went down to 12.19 when turning over. Took quite a while to turn over too ~ 3 to 4 seconds. I guess I will price out a new rectifier at the local yamaha shop. It's probably more likely that that is what has failed as opposed to the stator. I wonder if they would be so kind to let me try a new one before I buy it... that's probably asking too much for a dealer.
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Good point Barnes, I honestly don't know. I bought it used last year. I should look at the paper work that I stuffed into a folder and filed away. For now I will continue my quest. I'm thinking either a bad connection, melted wire or fried stator..
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Thanks Squidley, the regulator plug looks perfect really. Is there any way to actually check the regulator to see if it is working or damaged? Can I use my multimeter to check it? I'm not sure of the internal circuitry, but I would think its a series of diodes? I've been reading about these oil leaks and that does make me a little concerned. However, I do work for a gasket and rubber company, so I may be able to find a material that can do the job. Condor, I set the voltmeter and got... 12.9V before staring 12.74 when turned to on and turned the engine kill switch to run. 12.53 when turning over 12.53 when idling 12.53 when reved 12.71 when turned off Doesn't look good does it..
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Hello everyone, Before I start... 2005 RSTD, 50,000km. The sum of it is that my charging system is no longer working. I started it up at work a few days ago, seemed fine. Rode to the gas station, filled up, then all I heard was clicks and a slow single turn over of the engine before it died. I suspected that my old battery was,, well, old, so I replaced it with a new battery. Then the other day I went for a good ride and basically the same thing happened. I shut the bike down for a moment but couldn't get it fired back up. Both times I have to get a boost to get the bike fired up and back home. So my next step was to read through what I could on ventureriders.org to diagnose the problem. So far I have pulled the regulator/rectifier that sits right in front of the oil filter (what a complete pain in the butt to get out, had to loosen up the radiator and fight with it some to get the tools in there..) I checked the connection/pins and they look just fine, nothing burnt up. I am going to dig into the seat/battery area to check those wires tonight, see if I can spot some damage of any kind. Bar that, what should I be considering as a possible fix? I was thinking of getting the high output stator from Buckeye (I figure I could use it since I have a handlebar radio, tach, heated gloves, alarm system, sometimes my gps is plugged in as well). I figure if I can't see any damaged/loose wires and the r/r looks fine, then the stator might be suspect. I can replace/upgrade it, if it doesn't fix the problem then at least I have more power production.. Question: If I do replace the stator with the Buckeye, should I get a replacement Regulator/Rectifier as well? Is there a special high output R/R that goes with the high output stator? Does Buckeye sell one? I appreciate any comments and feedback! It's ashamed that the weather is perfect and I'm riding in my car. Having the windows down just isn't the same.. Thanks~!
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Retro Tachometer - A different approach
phertwo replied to phertwo's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Thanks again guys, Woodman, message me if you encounter any problems or concerns. It takes a little fidgeting with to get the right placement so that it fits nicely without coming into contact with the windshield. -
You're in Sudbury and the only one with a snow-blower on your street? How perplexing!
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Royal Purlple Max Cycle is what I am using. I get it through my company at a reasonable rate. Its still pretty expensive, but it is a good product. I have seen and have given the product demonstration on our testing rig and the results are quite amazing. Royal Purple makes quaker state look like glue. But honestly, when it comes down to it, as long as you are changing your oil with fresh, decent stuff, your still going to get from A to B.
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Perfect for when you need to go 50 ft and spend a boat load of money to do it. I'd get it if it had a fairing. I wonder if it runs better on Rotella?
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Quote: Originally Posted by Hotrod What kind of gloves does every one use to keep your hands warm, but most importantly,keep your hands dry in a torrential down pour? HAHAHhahahaha!!! Seriously though, I chose Gerbings heated gloves. Best move I've ever made. Ever.
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Those barrels are trouble. I was head back to Ontario from Quebec at night a few years back and had to drive through a long stretch of a highway construction zone. The lane started to narrow down to one lane with those barrels on either side. I was doing about 50-60km(31-37 mph) through the chicane, no other cars on the highway but me. Then I see up ahead the highway construction truck driving along dropping these barrels to section on the highway to the single lane. There was one guy driving and one guy on the back hurling these barrels over the side. As I got closer, one of the barrels that was tossed down did a little skip and ended up partially in my lane. I had less than a second before impact and I can still remember what happened as clear as day. My side mirror clipped the barrel, snapped back, shattered my drivers side window and flew right onto my lap. My girlfriend at the time woke up startled and looked at me with complete surprise. I was covered in small pieces of glass with my side mirror on my lap, all I could say was "Wow, you don't see that happen everyday!". I couldn't help but laugh as I had to enjoy a nice 10 hour drafty ride back home. Glad to see we are all around to talk about these awfully mischievous devils!