sadicarnot

The fix was Carbon One modified it for me. Made it about 2 inches longer on each end.

About 1.5k miles. None 2 up. No specific reason for the YSS I was going to go with a Werks but found the YSS less expensive and there were a few write ups on it. I don't think at the time I was looking I saw the Hagon. If I did it was probably a flip of a coin as to which one I actually went with.

Klaus is whom I bought the YSS shock from. I saw your signature said retired Chief and I was going to ask what you served on, but your handle answered that question. I was a nuke MM on the USS Bergall (SSN-667). I was only in for 6. Couldn't wait to get out. Looking at it from this side, kind of wish I would have stayed in.

There is a charge from the factory, plus the spring is custom based on the criteria you send them. I have not fully loaded it yet, but it is working really good. I have about 1000 miles on it.

Another update; I talked to the guys at work and the consensus was that creating 1.5mm thick shims was a bit beyond our tooling and capabilities. A little google fu to the rescue. I was able to find 1.5mm thick shims with a 12 mm ID and 18mm OD. 20mm would have been ideal but these should work well. Another note; it is amazing how little stock local businesses with bolt in their name have. I may end up buying some yellow zinc chromate fine thread bolts from Fastenal. Not because I need them but because I literally have nothing better to do than look for the perfect bolt. --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?ojddhv

Like a lot of people I was not comfortable with the reach to the handle bars on my '09 RSTD. I purchased the kit from Buckeye Performance that moves the bars back 1". I never liked the solution they provide for installing the bar end weights. As you know, the bar end weights are screwed into a rubber insert in a fitting pressed into the bar end. The Buckeye kit includes a sponge rubber piece that holds the bar end like a bilge plug. I have found that vibration is causing the sponge rubber to slowly wear away. Also because it is sponge rubber the bar end weights always seemed to be that they could wiggle out. At this point I want to state that it is my understanding that all installations using the parts from Buckeye have had zero issues. I could have left the bar end weights as is and had absolutely zero issues with them. The other issue that I had with the parts is that they come with carbon steel fasteners. As you can imagine, these quickly rust and look unsightly (although I am the only one that notices this). I wanted to at the very least change out the bolts with stainless steel ones. I work at a power plant and we did some work on the condenser. In particular I wanted to check how well the plugs were doing in 2 of the condenser tubes. These are the plugs we use: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7091/7066194955_d8aaa5bbee_b.jpg The plugs were too big to fit into the ends of the bars, so I used a razor blade to shave them down: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7215/7066195827_ecc81c6f91_b.jpg This is what the sponge rubber piece looks like after 22 months in service: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5196/7066196551_c690030a7a_b.jpg I ended up getting 110mm long bolts, I should have gotten 100mm, but the 110 will work: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7272/6920119796_86afa32d2e_b.jpg Any way, they are in there really tight now. I will have to see how well they work over time.

I wanted to post an update. I messed up and ordered bolts that are too short. I will call our bolt guy at work and try to get the right size before the weekend. I ordered 65mm, turns out that is the length of the stock bolts. Also the YSS shock came with 2 shims that are too large in diameter to work properly in my opinion. They need to be 20mm in diameter with a 12mm hole and 1.5mm thick. A 12mm washer is about 2.5mm thick. We have a pretty good machine shop at work, unfortunately we don't have a lot of people that know how to use the equipment. I will either shave down 12mm washers or try to manufacture a pair. Any way pics to follow.

I'll post here when I resolve the bottom bolt issue in the next week or so.

Just curious; did you consider aftermarket shocks? They are rebuildable and are not that much more expensive.

I did not go that route. I did not want to be bothered and did not want to bother any friends for a lift to the dealer as I am single. Please no flames about how this was a poor financial choice. Not having to deal with the dealer was worth it. Also I did not want the dealer to take apart the bike to put on a part I was going to just take off. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I have 20k or so. Noticed the shock leaking in December. I am running the leveling links. I bought the leveling links when I first got the bike. Everything seems to be working fine together. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Hey all; Just a note to say I am very happy with the new shock from YSS. I went on a 185 mile ride today. This was on the east coast of Florida from the Space Coast to Daytona and back. The first thing I noticed is that the bike rides a little higher. I had previously installed the Diamond R Leveling Links. The leveling links end up raising the rear of the bike by about .5 to .75 inch. I found the bike to be much more stable in turns and no longer had the feeling of the bike being loose in tight turns with high lean angles. Lately I felt the bike was 'wiggly' when I was riding on roads with undulations, or when I was making lane corrections. The YSS shock ended up raising the bike a bit more, not much but enough to be noticeable. This raising of the rear changes the geometry of the front, not sure of all the details, I am sure there are posts here that can explain it. In my mind this change is a good thing. I am sure some of the wiggling came from the stamped steel construction of the original shock. The billet construction and stiffer spring all work together to make a much better handling bike.

I have had good luck with Duralast in their car batteries. I had a buddie that got a bike battery several years ago from a car place for his bike, not sure what brand.

Ok, I ordered some longer bolts to replace the one that is too short. They are 12mm diameter nominal. Actual measurement is 11.9mm. Hopefully the hole they go into is big enough. I got the 10.9 steel which is the metric equivalent to a grade 8 bolt.

So I had a leaky stock shock on my '09 RSTD. I did some research and opted for the YSS from EPM Performance. One surprise about the shock is that it is made in Thailand. I don't think that matters much in todays day and age. The machine tooling in Asian countries is as good if not better than in the US. China still has issues with specifications and stuff. Taiwan is a powerhouse in machine tooling that started with their bicycle industry. Not sure of Thailand but this shock is a very well made aluminum piece. Very pretty bike porn. I filled out the information from the website and got an e-mail from Klaus Huenecke the next morning. I called them and placed my order Jan. 16. I was quoted 2-3 weeks for the shock, but I ended up getting it in March. This was not that big of a deal as I have been swamped with other projects in the first couple of months of the year. Here is the photo that Klaus sent me of the shock when I ordered: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7205/6887486880_efa82f3026_b.jpg Here is the shock as received by me: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7251/7033581199_0300d3a992_b.jpg If I am not riding, the next best thing is working on the bike in the garage on a nice day. My house faces north so I think it is the perfect place to work: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7241/7033597743_3514120497_b.jpg I did not want to take the rear wheel off so I figured I would go thru the battery box and change the BikeMaster TruGel with a Deka. I took the battery box out as well as the passenger floor boards on each side and the side covers. I realize now I did not get a good shot of that. That shock sure is tucked down in there pretty good: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7192/6887488318_a1f4ecb868_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7265/7033586793_c1469fd67a_b.jpg When I first started motorcycling I purchased this bike jack from Kawasaki. Very handy when you want fine control lifting the bike up. You still have to lie on the floor, but it is perfect for unloading the shock: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7280/7033587875_ab1f8dec3d_b.jpg Some other people have written that you don't have to take off both floorboards to do this, but I am glad I did because you can really get in there and work and see what you are doing. Another set of hands would have been good to hold the back side nut when loosening the bolt on the shock and the dog bone, but it was nothing strategic use of a 2X4 and a box end wrench could not handle. Since I was laying the ground the hardest part was getting the vent hose released, I was on the left side and should of got up to undo it on the right side: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6887495050_98ac4cb53c_b.jpg Here is the new versus the old. Very nice piece of kit is the new one: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7103/7033589763_a8f55435e4_b.jpg The YSS came with 2 washers that there are no instructions as to where they go. There was some play in the bottom clevis so I put them on the inside of it. Unfortunately the Billet clevis is wider than the stamped steel original and the bolt does not quite get full engagement. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6887506104_c6f16530ed_b.jpg bad pic that does not quite show the lack of full engagement of the nut. I'll keep an eye on it and maybe talk to the bolt supply guy at work and get a longer one if it seems to be a problem. When I bought the longer dog bones for the rear, they came with new bolts. For $499.00 I wish it would have been all inclusive of all the parts you need. Also the instructions it comes with are generic and not specific to the bike. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/7033603105_a7dab270ef_b.jpg Here is a pic that shows accessing the nut on the top bolt. The bolt head has a capture device so you only need one socket to remove it: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7089/7033598581_363648a59e_b.jpg Here is another pic that shows the lack of full engagement on the bottom bolt. Unfortunately there is a dearth of places to get large metric bolts like this. I'll have to measure it and get a longer one from Bolt Depot perhaps. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7084/6887508424_c64620c0ba_b.jpg by sadicarnot, on Flickr

Got the shock in and Deka is installed. Just a note, the Deka has 310 CCA vs 240 for the TruGel. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7226/7032652087_c7743bafc1_b.jpg Here it is installed: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7038/6886556850_feac14dbf2_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7220/6886559394_e226bc7122_b.jpg by sadicarnot, on Flickr

I spoke to a very nice woman when I called. I ended up buying a new car battery when I got stranded at work, had a co-worker jump me then went straight to Advance to get a new one. If I have warning in the future Bohannan will be where I go for all my future battery needs.

Well here goes. I have been stranded several times in the past by batteries and don't necessarily mind buying a new one before it is needed. I bought my '09 RSTD in June of '10 and it came with a BikeMaster TruGel battery. I was looking to maybe get a Shorai, but they are so dang expensive. I ended up getting a YSS Shock and decided it would be a good time now to change the battery as the shock is easier to get to thru the battery compartment. I was going to get an Odyssey but I never did like how the posts are and it is usually a PITA to get the wires to be just right. I looked at some of the posts on this site and saw good info on the Deka, and considering the price ($90.95 to my door) decided to pull the trigger on an ETX20L from Bohannon Battery. I phoned them Wednesday and since they and I are both in Florida I got the battery on Thursday via USPS. The battery is very well packed with styrofoam: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6885911518_6bd0bbb4ff_b.jpg The battery case on first inspection looks to be very well made and very sturdy: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/6885917970_5de955993c_b.jpg I like the posts; they look easier to deal with than the captured nut style on other brands and screw hole found on the Odyssey. I am not sure what the post material is, you will have to be careful not to strip them when they are tightened: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7240/7032017739_abe90d43ff_b.jpg The battery includes 2 bolts and copper washers. Deka has a very elagent solution to include the screws: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7253/7032016931_89f0fa3849_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7265/7032015837_b003a8c803_b.jpg Here is the Bike Master TruGel in my RSTD: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7075/7032018807_87a524119a_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7131/7032020597_9a5c264e65_b.jpg I never liked the case on the TruGel. It seems to be cheap and toy like and very plasticy, more plasticy than a plastic battery case should be like. Side by side I think the Deka has a much better, and more industrial construction feel to it: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7111/6885925022_f08531ea0c_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/7032023643_0f69efa292_b.jpg Alright, well let the flames begin. I took the battery and shock out last night. Going to put it all back together today. I will post a separate post on the shock.

They look nice on blue

I would like to get a tank bag for my RSTD. Does any one have any experience with the Yamaha tank bag part#STR-4WM64-21-00. I don't need a big one, just a place to put a camera and some cash for easy access. The local stealer has a pretty nice Joe Rocket tank bag that is small and can be placed to not interfere with the gas cap etc. http://www.joerocket.com/catalog/index.cfm/251/381/Luggage/Manta_Tank_Bag My needs would be satisfied with a windshield bag, but because of the '57 chevy speedo, there are not a lot of options in that route. Not really looking for a tank bib either.

I put the WWW on my red '09 RSTD. I love the look too much to go back. Don't buy into the FUD about not being able to clean them, I use a new brillo pad and it works great. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7171/6721203905_9b0fdb8316_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6749234957_1f4368bd98_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7174/6719313865_8a3f9704ba_b.jpg

First thought was why bother. Although it may be relatively easy by removing the middle gear back.

Rick; You tighten up the pinch bolt first then the axle nut? do you have to worry about the axle being fully seated in the pinch bolt socket? I have the groaning I did the alignment the way the tech bulletin says to do it with the rear wheel removed. Maybe I would get better results by following your procedure? I have an '09 RSTD BTW

I first tried the He-Man approach but quickly realized I was not He-Man. I ended up putting my ass on the seat and grabbing the handle bar grip (full left lock on the bars) and the crash bar or the passenger floor board. I don't remember which. I had trouble finding a good place to put my left hand. It was also in neutral so when I got the metal off the ground it wanted to roll down the driveway, so putting it in gear may be a good idea. I would say it would be a good idea to have a couple of buddies over to help you put the bike on your front lawn and try it out.

Thank you. When I take it apart I'll have to measure everything to make sure nothing is bent.