justfun1
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Hi, I have been having issues with a poor running 89 that is very sluggish. acts likeit is on 3 cylinders much of the time. I have rebuilt the carbs, synced them with a tool, and installed new plug wires, caps and plugs, checked the pickup connectors, and cleaned up the TCI connectors. All cylindars fire but many seem weak and for 1 cylinder in particular I can remove the plug wire while idling and it barely changes the idle. Due to another issue I was able to get to my coils & TCI. Upon inspecting the coils I found that 3 of them have cracks in the housing at the top of the body on the mold parting line. Does this indicate that they are bad or weak? Would the cracks affect the delivered spark? Thanks in advance!
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Windf off hands
justfun1 replied to Billkroeger's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I got tired of the cold hands too. After some thought I made up some wind winds for my fairing. See the thread link below, although the pics are not very good you can get a good idea of what I did. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68165 -
Grip & Highway Peg Question?
justfun1 replied to af226's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I agree with the other posters, those pegs suck. Mine always slips and I do not like the foot position. I'm going to be putting on some offset ones next summer, I hear many good comments about them. -
Sorry it took so long to answer, it's been a while since I have had time to get on here. Yes I was talking about the jets under the carbs. On both my '86 and '89 IZ have thjem set at between 2 1/2 & 3 turns out. Mike
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Not knowing the full history here but in case you have not done it yet, I'd check the main needle settings to be sure it is 2 1/2 - 3 turns out from bottoming out. That was the issue with my 89, it seems to run well at 2 3/4 turns out.
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Sidebag top cover strap?
justfun1 replied to Peder_y2k's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
What a great thread! I always wanted to figure out how to do that but never got around to it. I used a small diameter paracord and the electrical clips like the pictures above except I had to use the yellow connectors because of the diameter of the cord I used. It does work great! Awsome Idea!! Thanks again! -
Just wanted to share how it all ended up. The solder tip seems to have worked out well. Attached is a picture of tip. After tuning in the height with the test piece of coat hanger I cut the good antenna 1/4" longer thinking I could walk in the Tuning. Upon installation I found that the new antenna was a bit too short! So it seems that the electrical properties of the metal used for testing will impact the final height too. Thanks to the great responses on this thread, I learned that there was also a matching knob on the antenna splitter box. I was able to finish getting the antenna tuned in by using this matching adjustment. SWR Results: 1:3.5 on Ch1, 1:3 on Ch20, 1:4 Ch40 Thanks again for the help! Mike
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yeah I'm using a coat hanger to start with. I did have to grind down the dia. to fit it into the .082" hole so I should be OK with the electrical connection. I have a friend that is into HAM radio and he picked me up a treated SST antenna whip for $1 at a show he was at. Unfortunately it does not have a corona ball on it. I have been playing with a concept that my friend thinks should work well. Initially I took a piece of oak and drilled about a 1/8" hole about 1/8" deep using a drill press. I then sanded the end of a test wire to expose the raw metal. Using a soldering iron I filled the hole up with solder and then put the tip of the test wire into the monten pool & let it cool. I was able to work the resulting plug out of the mold and clean it up a bit with a file. I'm planning on trying a smaller dia. tip tonight that would have less mass. I also will play with different matierials to make the "Mold" from that might yield a better finnish. We'll see I guess, but it is fun tinkering with new ideas.
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With my initial scrap test wire antenna, I was reading a bit over 3. Tonight I hope to start tuning in on the target height with my test wire & then fit my good antenna wire to the antenna.
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Thanks for all the help with my "Issue", it is great to have such a great group to share knowledge with. Well . . . As it turns out the problem was the operator of the SWR meter. I had understood from the person I borowed the SWR from that the REF was the referance setting rather than the reflected setting. Seems that I had been setting the initial reading on the REF rather that the FOR so when I switched it to check the SWR it was always off the scale to the infinity. Another embarassing lesson learned that won't be forgotten soon . . . . Thanks again, Mike
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Hey Bob, Yes I did the motorola tip at the matching box to the tip of the antenna and had continuity . . . I did not measure the ohms though, if I understand it correctly it should be about 50 ohms resistance correct? A friend at work suggested that the SWR meter may be faulty too, so he'll bring in one on Monday for me to verify with. Thanks
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Thanks for the feedback! My iniitial reading were with the bike about 20 yards from any building in the driveway. I am trying to use a piece of scrap wire that I was playing with to try to figure out what the antenna height should be. I just can't seem to get a reasonalbe SWR at any length. I have also not adjusted the matching box . . . Is it even possible for the stock ones? In an attempt to rule it out I did remove it from the SWR setup a couple times and it did not change the result. If I understand what I've read on the net about the SWR readings . . . my results indicate that basically all ofthe power is being reflected back to the radio & virtually nothing is being transmitted. Is this correct? Thanks again for your help! Mike
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Hi all, I'm a bit stumped. :confused24: I recently upgraded my '86 to an '89 and am working through the bike making sure all is alright. The bike was missing the tip of the antenna so I'm trying to "fit" a new tip. I cut an antenna about 20" thinking I can step it down until I get the SWR correct. Hooking up the SWR I found that the reading is pegged past infinity. I started troubleshooting but have not found any obvious issues. I'm now stumped as to what to check next??? Items done: 1) SWR : it is pegged off the scale on ch1, ch40 and ch19 :confused: 2) Antenna mount has continuity to the negative on the battery. 3) The antenna when removed form the mount it has continuity from base to tip 4) the cable has continuity for the center conductor to the antenna mount post 5) the cable shield has continuity to the antenna mount body 6) there is no continuity between the center wire and the shield 7) tested with the matching box both connected and bypassed After this effort I was thinking on buying the stuff for the Marshal Mod but I'd like tofigure out if the CB is good or not prior to sinking the $$ into a new antenna setup. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike
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Hi, I had real good luck with the Dunlop E3's. I got 22K and 21K on the last 2 rear tires and the front is. I did try a venom front once but did not like the ride. . . it could be because I had an E3 in the back. I'm sold on the E3's so far using 40 psi in the back and 35 psi in the front. Just my 2 cents, Mike
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My upper wind wings
justfun1 replied to justfun1's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
They do work great. It really did widen the air bubble and my kids said that it made it less windy for them too. I wish I had done this a few years ago. I used 2 different methods to bend the Lexan. For the one by the radio I used a torch to heat it up and bend it. This worked but it bubbled and distorted the plexi in the bend area. For the other one I cold formed it using a metal brake I bought from Harbor freight (a cheap on I've had my eyes on for some time). This worked much better and produced a crisper result. It is important to note that you can only cold bend for Lexan brand plexiglass.