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Trader

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Everything posted by Trader

  1. Thanks to both of you for your responses. I hate to admit it when I make such stupid mistakes...but hey...maybe someone else can learn from my stupidity. I was going from the exploded view in the manual and "assumed" that was the drain bolt. Have I done any damage spinning that bolt or the works inside? Like I said...if felt as if the whole works was turning. :bang head:
  2. I'm doing progressives on my 88 I'm trying to drain the front forks. I'm using a 19mm hex and reaching way up inside the bottom of the fork. BUT....it feels REALLY TIGHT and I've turned it probably 20 turns and it doesn't feel like its getting any looser. Is the plug really that long? Is it possible to be stripped but not get more free as I keep turning it? Could it just be the seal that makes it feel so tight? I'm almost afraid to try the 2nd fork if I've somehow screwed this one up. Is there an alternative way to drain the fork.? Man I wish I knew what I was doing!!! It's scary stuff when you've never done this before! Every nut and bolt is an adventure LOL
  3. If you are giving up on him...just give up on him and do the work or hire someone else to do the work and get 'er done! If he shows up you can try to get a refund (good luck with that) or just tell him off or ...well.......
  4. :clap2: I"ll have to remember that when I'm in the door to door work!
  5. We seem to live pretty hetic lives so let me know a bit in advance when you willl be in the area and I'll meet up with you! If you have time I'll show you some very nice rides. I"m riding the 84 for now while I get the 88 fixed up. Is that all it is....transmission fluid or hydrolic fluid? I've got gallons of Hydrolic fluid for the log splitter!!!!!!!!!!!
  6. What a PITA!!!!! I went to the Yamaha Dealer to get fork oil... the instruction in the progressive spring set recommended 10 or 15 wt and specificallly advised against 20wt oil. All Yamaha had was 20 wt. nothing else! I ended up going to a honda dealership where they had 5 or 10 wt...no 15. So I bought the 10 wt Honda fork and shock oil....$9.00 for 1/2 litre!!!! (500 ml) That would be $3420 for a 50 gal (us) barrel!!!!
  7. skydoc (a member here) sells a fuse block upgrade...check out the Member vendor's seciton of the classifieds.
  8. How much does it cost these days to "get rid" of somebody:rotf:
  9. I used to be invoved with the QS9000 quality control documents in my department. We had several "authorized" binders (one in each work station or pulpit) with hard copies of proceedures available for reference. We did not disable the ability to print out the online documents because Some folks like to follow along instructions on a paper rather than on screen. But Employees were directed not to save personal print outs and were accountable to the current proceedures. Then when new proceedures or revisions were released online , an authorized person would go to the binders and update the paper copies and employees would "sign off" acknowledging the new proceedures (generally once a week)
  10. He replied to an email from me...so we know he's still kickin' But everyone want so know..... SO HOW ARE YA ?????
  11. Perhaps the owner of the renovated house would be willing to do a "rent to own"
  12. Could someone explain what is meant by one inch of pre-load and how you attain it?
  13. Hey you could always have a relaxing day at the beach in China! Can you imagine going to the bar for a cold one and trying to find your family?
  14. sure...that little motel room across town was a "mistake" right?
  15. I think I'd be camping out in his driveway! People like that make it hard to remember the way a Christian is supposed to act!
  16. As stated....hope you never want to resell it cause you won't get much for it. In Ontario, we cannot license a vehicle that has a salvage title. They are good for parts only.
  17. I'd love to know how you can do that job in a little over an hour! It took me that long just to get the fairing off one side! Could someone tell me if there is an easy way to get the fairiing off without having to tear it completely apart in little pieces? EDIT: I figured out how to get to the bearings!...I'm debating if I should go ahead and do the progressives at this time while I have everything pulled apart.
  18. Ok, so my 88vr flunked the safety check....they said the steering bearing was toast. I felt some "clunking" when I rode it home from Chicago and it felt a bit snakey in the corners so I figured they were probably right. BUT...tonight I started tearing into it...put it up on the jack so the front end was free and clear. I tried the "bounce test" but the limits of travel are restricted by wires and hoses and so it won't bounce at all...it eases to the limit, along with some the creaking sound of rubber on rubber. I grabbed the front wheel , standing in front of the bike and tried to lift and pull forward at the same time...no movement, no "clunking". I'm thinking they flunked it because of rubber...not because of bearings! And of course the potential 4 hours labour plus parts to replace the steering bearings. ADDED: did more checking and I can feel a flat spot when steering is centered...could that be enough to fail a safety? Any thoughts?
  19. At least be WILLING and HAVE TIME to do all your own maintenance. This site has a wealth of information and helpful people whose expertise you can draw on. Throw in the odd Maintenance Day and you're good to go!! Don't let the frame break or 2nd gear scare you off. It is not that common but it does happen. Frames can be welded. Search the site...there is a thread somewhere with pics showing "punch" marks that were often used indicating if 2nd gear has been done.
  20. OK....I'll bite....what is CBMMA?
  21. You obviously have a phone number, do you have a physical address so you can go and pay him a visit to find out why he's not at your place?
  22. have you checked to see if the steering head bearing is loose?
  23. I just brought an 88 vr from Chicago to Ontario. Because it was over 15 years old it didn't have to be registered with the Registrar of Imported Vehicles. All I had to pay was the GST portion at the border...the PST portion when I get the plates. You have to bring the original ownership to the US border services where you plan to cross at least 72 hours before you bring it across so they can make sure it's not stolen. If it was under 15 years old I would have had to spend $195 for the RIV, plus take it to the authorized inspection depot for the safety check. At the Canadian side all they checked was the VIN number. (I rode the bike home) I'm not sure about a kit bike. I know Kit car cannot be imported.
  24. saw a first gen MkII just north of Kingston late Sat. afternoon. He was heading west on Unity Road crossing #38 onto Mud Lake Road...which takes you to the 401 I tried to get his attention but I was turning off and had someone right on my butt! Looked almost like MARCARL (poor guy!) ANYBODY FROM HERE?
  25. 3 things you need to think about. What is the average temperature of the source water. a well or lake may be colder than a municipal supply. how many outlets or taps are used at once (your Gal per min demand) what is the temperature increase you need. (difference from the source temp to the desired hot water temp.) A tankless units are generally rated for a "X" temp. INCREASE at "Y" gal/min Assuming a tankless unit will provide 90* ( degree) increase at 2 gal per min. (a single shower will use 2 gal per min) IF your source water is 45* (from a well or lake) you can heat 2 gal per min up to 135 degrees. But if you need 5 gal per min, that same unit may only provide a temp increase of 50* ...so 45* +50* means your hot water will only be 95* which is not hot enough for most folks. Now the OP was in Florida....so assuming the water is a constant 55*-65 * you need less "boost" I'm not saying these numbers are accurate...but thats the jist of the way it works.
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