Trader

A few years back I broke my leg. You know how the shin bone does a "T" at the top, just under the knee cap? Well I broke one leg of the "T" right off and it shifted away from the rest of the bone I was in a cast from my crotch to my ankle for 10 weeks. About a week and a half after I got my cast on I was telling the ortopedic surgeon how comfortable the cast was and how I could walk with no pain at all. He freaked out on me, saying I was going to undo all his work, ruin myself for life and "suggested" I shouldn't be putting ANY weight on it at all. Who knew?

I've heard about those Italian Women! LOL

What!!?? You sold your Venture for a gold wing!?! What a dumbass thing to do. only a real jerk would do that. There.....feel better? hee hee

Good question...I was told the final drive was from a mark1 But the clutch spring was a mark 2 type

Thanks for that reply Don. Should I replace all the pins while I'm in there or is that only if the shift segment was so badly bent the pins fall out?

So that's where he went...I had heard he was working at a 7-11 somewhere in Ohio

I THOUGHT I WAS PAYING ATTENTION.... but I guess not so much. I am replacing the clutch steel plates, friction discs and spring. At the very bottom of the stack (furthest inboard) is a narrow black plate which I never removed because I couldn't get under it. So I know it should be the bottom of the stack Does a full steel plate go on top of this first black plate or the 1/2 friction disc? reading the procedure in the library doesn't even mention this small plate and the picture of the empty basket is the wrong angle to see the bottom of the basket to know where they started from. I think I found the answer in a 2nd gen tech thread....but would like confirmation to be sure. The smaller black plate at the bottom is the spring plate..followed by the 1/2 friction plate, the smaller steel plate, a full steel plate and then the wire...RIGHT?

2nd gear pops out somethimes when I really get on it. I know Mark I's have the 2nd gear problem...but mine is an 88. Someone suggested that a shift pin may be bent. Is that something I can get at while I have the clutch pulled apart..under the clutch basket? Or is it a split the case job....cause that just isn't going to happen!

Hmmmmm...which finger?

I pulled the rear master and cleaned all the "mud" out of it. It was a mess. Funny because the rear calipers didn't look to gunned up at all. That supply hose isn't weeping at all so I'm re-using it. I've plugged the connection where the front brake line used to be and installed stainless line to the back. the front master was nowhere near as bad but I cleaned it up anyway and installed 2 stainless lines to the master. now I just have to bleed them.

Saddle bum has one in the mail for me. whadda guy!

Not even sure what they are called but I'm Talking about the brake fluid line that runs from the brake pedal switch up to the base of the resivoir. It is held on by hose clamps...that's why I'm wondering if it is just a supply line or if it is under pressure.

:big-grin-emoticon:Does Carl count?

I read a review where the author said that you don't have to pay for big buck "quality" cables....cheapies will do the same job. He(she?) said unless you are running long distances it is a waste to pay big$$$ for cables. Its not like the old analog days. With digital it either works or it doesn't. Those fancy cables are a HUGE income generator for places like Best Buy.

You don't have to do it when you change pads...but most flush the fluid ( bleeding until system is full of fresh fluid) every 2 years. I don't think anyone answered you about the clutch....you bleed it the same way as brakes and use the same type brake fluid

In YOUR opinion right?

Always expect the best intentions from people. Then even what seems negative may not be all that bad. We can express our opinions without getting personal. And everyone is welcome to express their opinion.....as long as it is the same as mine!

Thanks Puc Being north of the boarder we don't have HF but I ordered one off Amazon.ca. it has a good picture but not for anything closer than about 1 inch. Any closer and its out of focus Is he solder gun suggestion from experience or just a thought?

Im thinking the valves have never been done...every shim I've checked so far have all been 180

I guess I can try bending a small (jewellers) screwdriver 90* and see if I can get under it. I certainly can't pry it off with a straight one

OK.....continuing saga. I cannot for the life of me get the shim out of #3 inboard exhaust. I've tried quite a bit. For sure there is lots of clearance between the cam and the shim.....and I'm sure the tool is not on top of the shim. So....any suggestions or do I have to pull the cam? I don't see what help that would be really.... If I have to pull the cam, is there enought slack in the cam chain to be able to move it aside?? I realize I will have to mark the chain and cam position to ensure I get it back in the same tooth.

On my iPod the membership tab is hidden behind the search box also noticed my start date is wrong. I know I've been asking stupid questions for more than 2 years....2010 maybe?

Hey Puc hope it goes well.....you gonna ask if you can watch? I ALWAYS ask but some doctors don't like it.

Thanks I was trying to do that! Looking at I can see I have to double check a couple.....like cyl.2 inboard exhaust

OK...checked the valves... Heres my results the #4 inboard intake is scary tight! the measurements are inches above metric. the ones showing .xxx5 just mean it was a tight xxx