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Trader

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Everything posted by Trader

  1. It won't fit! 83-85 is MK I...different mounts from Mk II But there is a high demand for those...in fact I might be interested. Please PM me with the price
  2. Trader

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    There is no ONE definite answer ! He could be; landed back on the roof, still in the air, on the ground, on an awning, balcony or any other object or person below, in the hospital in the morgue! OR BACK HOME TRYING TO FORGET ABOUT THIS WHOLE THING!!!!!!
  3. there was a thread a while back claiming that OEM tires are different from aftermarket tires...even within the same brand and model. This was hotly contested but The email reply you got seems to verify just that!
  4. I had a 2000 GMC Jimmy. I got it at 65,000 Km and sold it at 218,000 During that time I had to: rebuild the transmission replace all ball joints replace tie rod ends (twice) Rebuild rear end replace rear axle bearings a 2nd time replace the starter replace front wheel bearings twice replace the rad and heater core Last summer I spent almost $1600 on brake work....then blew a break line and said :bang head:"enough is enough" and sold it cheap.
  5. Like I said....here's the link! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64057
  6. Skydoc sells a great kit, new fuse block, auxillary blocks, all the jumpers and connectors you need and some pretty good instructions. I just did mine last night...... heres the link to the thread.... in the pictures you can see the main fuse block..it doesn't show the auxillary blocks. the kit makes everything nice and neat...in the pics I haven't tied up the wires yet...just made the connections thats all. SO it will neaten up more than that picture shows!
  7. You gotta watch that Carl guy around the young ones....not sure but I think he might be on one of those "special" lists !!!!
  8. But you have to match rpm to transmission to do it. If you are not trying to it, it doesn't just happen!
  9. Well, spent the evening figuring out the wiring and changing the fuse block. That's not really true...I didn't figure out the wiring much at all! The PO had all kinds of extensions with inline fuses to replace some of the glass fuse block that had fallen apart. Here's some pics of the before and after. I have a question for you on the 3rd picture, you can see the area I circled. There is a red wire (arrow) that seems to go down to below the rad. I'm not sure if it is the starter unless the starter wire goes up from under it. But if it IS the starter, why is it on the NEGATIVE side of the battery. If it is the ground....they should have used BLACK!!!!!!! There is a rectangular fuse box in front of the battery. It has 4 spade type fuses in it...but I have NO IDEA what they may be for:think: Also, right beside the one red wire, is a heavy red wire with cloth covering...goes into a 2nd fuse block containing 2 glass fuses. Smaller black wire coming out. What is that one for?
  10. well it looks like I'll be replacing the fuse block at least. It has a real dog's breakfast of added fuses, replacement fuses and some in the original glass fuse block. One of those fuse holders broke off so I may as well replace it. I was going to wiat until winter but looks like I gotta do it now. Anyway....as far as the class....there is power to the control unit as the light comes on when I turn the key. I tried my Class controller from my 83 and it didn't work either so it probably is something at the back. I'll just have to undo what Carl did....again! We spent most of the afternoon undoing what we had done (or more correctly...whet I had done)
  11. But he said the dealer did the last oil change..((Post #7)...not likely to use the wrong type.
  12. if you don't have a torque wrench SKYDOC taught me a trick. He said if you "palm" your 3/8 drive and just use your wrist...not your arm...JUST YOUR WRIST...and snug it up real good...but don't put any "oomph" into it...you should be pretty close.
  13. 3 pictures.... the screen shot ....if you look in the lower right corner you can see the THANKS button we've had for a long time and the LIKE button....the green "thumbs up" Close up of the "LIKE" button Close up of results when someone "LIKES" your post. if you look back to your post (2-3 ago) you see how many "LIKES" you have for that post. It looks like you can't see the LIKE button on your own posts.
  14. I just tried it under MYMINPINS last post...and it says 1 member likes this post....so much like a thanks functiion...and it took me back to your post.
  15. Including my 88 I don't know what Carl did when he put the trunk box etc together on my bike .... but my class WAS working before I tore everything apart. Now it is dead....nothing....no display....no clicking....zilch...zip...nada. Where do I start?
  16. We are a little bit behind you...not full colours yet...but LOOKING GOOD! I think the colours are early because of stress....it's been a dry summer around here. I"m going to be riding to Rochester ....probably next week sometime and I'm really looking forward to it! I just gotta get the Class working now! But that's a different thread.
  17. Yours is the first 1st Gen I have seen since I joined this forum that has had a rear shock go bad. It seems to be common on 2nd Gen bikes but rare on first gens. I would bet the problem is elsewhere....perhaps the compressor? Never having seen the problem I can't help with the "how to" but I know others will jump in!
  18. . Well, it does allow the opportunity for mental images! If reality is anything as good as what I imagine...then when pics are posted we are in for a real treat!
  19. LOTS of BOTH ....Carl never even said he preferred brown....he just shut up and took what he was given. What a guy!
  20. SHHHHHHH!
  21. Could you mention that to my wife?
  22. NIce! Diamond cut covers would really set it off. I like the stuffed dalmation idea.
  23. Stick welding is very susceptable moisture in the welding rods. That can also explain why you had a hard time getting the arc started etc. Always keep your rods in a warm, dry place...and before you actually start a major project, it doesn't hurt to put them into an oven to warm up and dry out. With the right rods, and a little care, even the cheap 110v welders will do a decent job. One of the biggest mistakes folks make is "surface welding". you can have a nice bead but if there isn't enough penetration you won't have any strength.
  24. Are there any inexpensive GPS that have an FM transmitter so we can hear them on headsets? Its dangerous to have to check the screen for every turn!
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