Trader

If the rear reservoir is overfull I've hear of the rear brake locking up. The fluid heats up and expands and puts pressure on the brakes.

Fuses are under the false gas tank cover. All you need to do is undo the bolt/screw just behind the gas filler spout and slide the cover ahead about 1 " and it will lift off. I think the same fuse is for the headlights and the tail lights so if your headlight is working...I would look for a connection/ground problem. If you have the original glass fuses they are known to have issues with age. Most folks change out the fuse box with one like Skydoc17 (a member here) offers.

You must have been running on 3 cylinders! It's surprising how well they will run on just 3....but at 110km you could still be in 4th gear and climbing fast!

Have fun guys!

2nd gens sometimes get a vacuum in the gas tank created by a plugged bypass or something like that. Someone else will better explain but next time it happens, try loosening your gas cap. If it sucks air when it opens, that's the issue.

I was told it could also be that the throttle cables need lube. Mine would hang up....but if I gave it a quick rev it would settle down. Just a thought.

pm sent

even shipping aside! I've had multiple offers from folks in the US saying "ship it here and then come and get it"...but most of the prices are outragous even with out shipping. Anyway...beat this one to death. Next whine?

Yea....but did you guys look at the stuff? $14.99 for a kick stand spring....with $45 shipping. $24.99 for a gas cap...with $45.45 shipping $14.99 for a trunk mat....with $32.95 shipping O.M.G.!!!!

Still too straight!

WHo cares! looks basically straight!

Pretty bike. I love blondes!

Just lie down here and we can talk about it. Why do you feel that way? Do you think you were potty trained a bit too early? Did you feel as if your mother didn't love you? Hmmmmm?

it's not just the shipping prices...the prices for many of the items themselves are crazy!

That's what we've all been saying! EVERYONE knows first gens are faster:rotf:

This just ticks me off http://stores.ebay.com/Cyclenet-Parts/_i.html?_nkw=project%3A+1106&submit=Search&LH_TitleDesc=1&_sid= Does anybody pay these ridiculous prices? What color is the sky in this guys world? I looked at handle bar cable covers...14.95 and $45 shipping!!!!!!! I sent the guy a "are you kidding me?" message. Maybe some of you might want to also. He might come down to earth.

I had to combine the US map and the Canadian map into one image in photoshop.

If you post what kind of bike you have it would be easier....then we don't have to go to your profile to find out. Go to the left side of the page....you'll see "user cp" then "edit your details" Scroll down and you'll see "Custom User Title" You can put your bike year and make in there so everyone can see it and better know how to help you. PS....I lived in Dunnville for 17 years!

OK....so if I want to use a stator from my parts bikes...how do I bench test the parts bike stator (not running) to see if it's any good.

OK folks, you know I had issues coming back from the IR on my 88 . I bought a new battery (acid filled...but any port in a storm!) removed a bunch of fuses and made it home ok. Now the Electrics family and me are not the best of friends. I'm not even really positive I'm using the correct settings on the admittedly cheap multimeter I'm using (see pic) I'm going to relate what I've done in detail so perhaps you can tell me what these results actually mean. Fully charged and no load, using the 20 volt setting I get 12.62 across + and - terminals of battery. With no headlight or tail light on (fuse removed) I get 13.1 at idle and 13.9 v at 4000 rpm...again, across the battery terminals The resistance test and the ac voltage test were done with the plug disconnected Doing the resistance test... My meter has 200 Ohms as the lowest. Crossing the probes reads .7 between the pins got 1.2, 1.1, 1.2 so that means the actual ohms are .5,.4,.5? From the pins to a good frame ground I got the same readings??????? (I thought it was supposed to be 0=open?) Doing the ac voltage test...my scale is 200 (does that even matter?) I got 20,21,21.5 at idle and 65,72,73 at 4000 rpm ( research said should be more like 100-110 v ac) So what I'm thinking is that the stator is working..... just too weakly? Where do I test the rectifier?....or is that even a possible issue with these readings?

Mine leaked onto the collector...that's all I know. It wasn't enough to chase mosquitoes but It did smoke a bit when it first warmed up. It didn't take long to burn off at all. My master would empty out in 4-5 days.