dvuch1

We as a group are like our bikes....dinosaurs. Just not extinct yet..flat screens are the for the weak...i love chugging a 150 lb TV thats 3 cubit ft that has no edge to hold...manly.:crying:

I would tie the handle all the way back. That way the seep hole is all the way open allowing the air to get out .If its halfway pulled it's not necessarily even engaged yet.

I will gladly endure the incessant drone of a a high pitched venture over a high pitch bit....oh never mind thats lame and she has every reason with me around....sorry for your troubles hope it works out

Air is almost always the culprit despite getting fluid. Microbubbles that require a bit of time and patience. I use a suction pump on the bleeder.It eliminates the PUMPING and annoyance . .Harbor freight $20. Open bleeder.Use a cable tie on brake/clutch lever.....to keep it open....Apply suction ....keep reservoir full as you suction several batches through.....close bleeder..cut cable tie...should work..

Air is almost always the culprit despite getting fluid. Microbubbles that require a bit of time and patience. I use a suction pump on the bleeder.It eliminates the PUMPING and annoyance . .Harbor freight $20. Open bleeder.Use a cable tie on brake/clutch lever.....to keep it open....Apply suction ....keep reservoir full as you suction several batches through.....close bleeder..cut cable tie...should work..

I have 2 salvage civics 2010 2001......and 2 clean title civics....2004 2000 .....I can't say enough...just the peace of mind....got them all what I consider reasonable...very reliable easy to work on cheap parts at the junk yards.. great gas mileage...not super luxurious but hey i just drive them..be patience and find the one that fits your $.....i just lost out on a 1999 with 160k for a 1000.00 original owner! Everything worked but it sold within 2 hours on craigslist.

have a kn air---don't use it....to thick and oily. I just bought a WIX 24933oil filter at Oreillys auto and they have it for the 86VR and it comes with the big ORING for the housing and the oring for the drain for 7-8 with tax. I had been spendng 11-12 for the yamaha filter alone and 5 for the housing and -2-3 for the drain ring. I'm not sure on the quality but it should be fine..I run synthetic and change oil every 3-4 k because i like my bike. No debate it works for me.

Awesome thanks just did it, Dave

I took a 450 mile jaunt to KC and back and the bike ran as well as it did before my valve adjustment...all that worry...the valve covers don't leak a a speck, performance wise no difference ...mpg...nah i was doing 75-80 mph the whole way so 33-35 mpg is fine for this kind of speed. I didn't torque to specs on the covers but i think as long as you DONT OVERTIGHTEN you can fanangle it down. I don't recommend it but i tried to use a torque at the Oreillys but it wasn't cool. So we go another 26-30k on this....

I have both paper and pdf and prefer to print what I am working on get it all dirty and throw it away. My manual gets a lot of unnecessary wear n tear. I liked the idea of downloading it to my phone....thanks for the thought ...

Thats probably true but a cramped work space but I should have tried that because it's a bit of a bear getting the radiator back in..Frank ...did you take the t housing off? I don't think you can leave that on. Dave

I replaced my starter 86 VR with a 2007 royal Star 4 brush from Pinwall Cycle 59.95.Free shipping also a couple weeks ago. At first you must tell them that any 2nd gen will work. They do not list everything on ebay and you must inform them sometimes year by year what will work...I asked the lady if they has a 1999,2000, 2001 etc.etc.. You must take the radiator off. The right exhaust (I had an exhaust gasket-didn't use it though) The thermostat housing and coolant by pass valve. The hardest part is replace the raidator with all its closely cut lines with no play in them My starter popped out but I've also heard that they can be stuck. I replaced alot of o rings and the thermostat because I was there. I stripped one allen on thermostat housing and used an extra starter housing bolt to replace. It's not exactly slam dunk but with time and patience it worked well. I did have a "slip" in the starter on occasion but that has passed after a couple scares. Leave lower fairings off to check things out for several days. The new o rings leaked a tiny bit but have since sealed without a weep. It's arduous but worth the pain of NOT PUSHING THE HOT TIRED BEAST.

Guys thanks a million. I got a set of jewelers files at harbor freight ....broke a curved one in half so it would fit between the buckets where the aluminum was depressed and flattened and started filing...and filing and just for good measure filed some more.....now the bucket and shim are at their original height and go up and down freely. These 2 buckets don't spin like the rest but at this point I don't believe that will be an issue. I now have 3 cylinders completed of the 4 and I've changed 9 shims so far. I've been very careful with the shim tool and have learned a lesson or two. I want to thank all of you in my hour(days) of need...thought I was going to kick the bucket for a while there!

Emory board !! I've been thinking what might work also is a jewelers file with diamond dust but Emory boards cheaper more flexible but I'll be doing something,,,thanks Ill keep ya posted!

Ok Neil.. The exhaust buckets that dont spin but require tapping are the ONLY ones the shim tool was utilized on.. cyl #1 ...(I checked Cyl#3 ...all spin freely). I now see a depression in the aluminum head between the two exhaust buckets made by the shim tool....I probably overcranked the shim on the head! At least at this point....one bucket rises to the correct height and travels up and down freely....the stuck bucket is better but not quite there yet but does return to the not quite there mark on every rotation...I may have put these two exhaust areas a bit "out of Round" in the slightest but most troublesome way. I dont think Im at the point of cam removal. I will continue to try and get this stuck bucket to rise a bit more, IF i am at cam removal,,,,I might be done on this machine.

I bought a dental mirror and it appears that there may have been some damage but its a bit hard to discern...scraping aluminum sounds like fun but that is my same thought I have right now. I initially was hoping to find a dremel but it would never fit in there. On a side note, I can't figure out why the intake buckets spin easily and the exhaust one have to be tapped?

Yes Neil...these are the ones that I used the shim tool on ,,, the ones that are hard to turn...have to tap with screwdriver and hammer...the intake buckets spin easy.

Nemo glad to hear its working. Dave

Ok I got it up a ways but not safe enough to run....Question...my intake buckets spin freely...my exhaust buckets I have to tap to spin with a screwdriver and hammer. Why are these buckets in there so much tighter on the exhaust side?

Ah the next guy might be me....as my bucket is down

With a 275 shim the clearance ... I can put the 3/4 of the feeler gauge in there!! Because the bucket is so low. I have cranked by hand it's not that low that the valve will hit the piston

if that is so.... I just bought long handled pliers with an angle on the end to pull up while I pry with a screwdriver as well as a dental mirror....this is it...wish me luck.. Dave

Thats for the hypendupenator.....does your VR go at warp speed?

I agree but the bucket has those handle depressions to turn it and it does turn despite being too low...But I just don't know the anatomy and physiology well enough to assume that ...make sense?

Thanks kirby--- I'm trying everything I know how to do...There shouldn't be any debris and the bucket spins and without the shim in... there is a small groove on the inside lip of the bucket...I have tried a small blade long handle screwdriver in there to pry it without success. Ive lubes it as well....and Iv'm going out now to get a dental mirror to see if there is any lip,burr or issue there,,,,Thanks keep giving me suggestions....I really want to get this going again! Dave