Rob Swallows

I would think mine would be pretty easy as I was born with it.

what is the crankcase capacity? I've never changed the oil in this one in the past. I have a new filter also.

Agree. Pulled carbs off this afternoon and removed float bowl from #1 . Clean inside but a white film exists probably from the additive, (Seafoam) over the past couple of tank fills. I pulled two diaphragms and slides not able to see anything wrong with them, but will replace diaphragms all the same. I'll await the carb kits ordered earlier before tearing anything further apart as it's going to be a few days with the weekend and holiday. The airbox above the carbs was loaded with an oily mess also so going to check the air cleaners to see if they're plugged and clean this plenum. I've never looked at the elements in the past so need to teach myself how to disassemble the airway path to get to the elements. It's always something for sure. Rob

Try this: http://www.manassashonda.com/kl-carburetor-repair-kits-detail.htm?productid=7921127 Part #1003-0442 about 1/2 way down the page. Rob

Well, I ran to the Yamaha dealer and picked up a gallon of Honda GN4 oil and a fresh Yamaha oil filter for the bike as per their recommendations also. They have the Yamalube but suggested the Honda oil over it. Also picked up a quart of DOT 4 brake fluid and have at the shop synthetic gear lube, and synthetic wheel bearing grease. I will get a good look at those brake pads to ensure I don't destroy a rotor for sure. They also market carburetor kits which are only the gaskets and seals for $27.00 each kit so I'm going to take the carbs off, break them down and probably replace all the gaskets and seals along with the parts already ordered. I want it right so no waste here. I'd like to get it broken into prior to leaving for our family get together so if I fine additional needed parts they can be ordered by Friday to arrive on Tuesday, or Wednesday with the holiday in there.

Thanks for the tip. I agree on staying with the conventional oil although I've never had a problem with seepage or leakage when switching over. I debated hard on staying with the original Dunlop series tires but my friend was certain the Metzler was a better tire so went with that. I always run them 2lbs below max inflation pressure cold too as I don't like tire "woller" around curves. I'll be changing out those fluids early next week as we are traveling in the car to see family for the holiday weekend. Looks like you were at Incirlik, (sp)? I was there several times in the late 80's working with the air force with data linking between aircraft of the navy and air force. I'm quite familiar with Istanbul as been all over the city remembering the 56 Chevrolet taxi cabs fondly.

Thinking I found something significant: I had the bike running at idle and I'm laying flat on my back in the parking lot listening to the music of the pipes and observing the bottom of the carburetors on the left side. This is after I've wiped clean the carburetor best I can which supplies cylinder #1 and removed all the boots and hoses needing removed to do a carb sync finding nothing wrong with any. I just happened to be looking at carburetor #1 when a drop of gasoline falls from what looks like a drain port in the float bowl right down onto the top of the engine. I stick my finger up there and sure enough, liquid gasoline from this drain port, (I suppose)? It looks like there is a socket head drain valve for shutting this off? I've not touched it and hope someone will chime in on this finding. Regardless it probably shouldn't be dripping any fuel which is laying on the top of the engine. I don't have an allen wrench long enough with me to reach the seemingly valve to tighten, or close it so will get to it later today when back home.

I don't mind the routine of changing out brake fluid at all. Years ago when it was cheap to rebuild wheel cylinders brake fluid was like rear end lubricant being assumed to last the life of the vehicle. I know better now with some age behind me. I do like the added boiling point of the DOT 4 fluid so very well may go with it as I'll be pulling the trailer w/cargo. I know September still is pretty warm around parts of the country and the added "cushion" or safety factor of the later fluid shouldn't be negated. I always run "low silicate" formulation and distilled water in the coolant and am switching all my lubrication fluids on the trucks to synthetic. The bike can go the same route. My bike has aftermarket "Star" chromed reservoir covers without writing. I've got to download the service manual on the site here for reference soon to clear up some brewing questions. Really appreciate you guy's insight. I'll post up my itinerary once finalized and maybe we can meet up along the way. I don't drink except coffee and water so a small family type restaurant works great for us. Thanks to all. Rob

Good reasoning as the clutch master is definitely darker than the front brake master through the window. I've not looked at the rear brake master. Brake pads on mine are really quite even in wear. The void between the pad segments is still prominent on inner and outer pads. In reality they are probably about 50% worn, but I'll carry the replacements with me on the trip as they're part of the tool and spare parts kit.

Please clarify the preference. I've never used DOT 4 and have never had problems with DOT 3. Not being smart azz, just don't know the difference. Thanks, Rob

Good points and I caught a Deka battery on sale early this spring but did not take possession. I purchase several batteries a year for my antique semi trucks there and they'll keep it till needed. Prior to the trip I'll rotate it through. I'm thinking the installed battery was new when I purchased the bike in 2010 but knowing it's five years old, no kick starter, and the inherent possibility of once again being able to hear my wife's "I told you so" voice as she offers constructive criticism made purchasing a replacement battery quite easy. The Metzler tires were highly recommended by a buddy with a Gold Wing so went with them. I've always ran Dunlop Elite tires but haven't purchased one in many years. I'll keep an eye on these for sure but they seem to be very smooth in operation.

I'm not certain what oil is installed now but when the bike is hot, I really have a difficult time shifting to neutral when setting stopped. Shifting up or down on the roll is easy but much easier when the oil is cold. Also when hot, the clutch drags a bit which doesn't exist when cold. When I purchased it the owner gave me a partial quart of "YamaLube" which I still have. I read someplace on here where a gent preferred Honda branded oil but I always ran Mobil Lubricants and never had problems in my older bikes which has asbestos in the facings. On a side note my clutches were always Barnett due to the extreme usage they'd receive..... I've not tried to stand this one up, (and probably won't) but the crazy days of front wheel up standing on the pegs looking over the front tire and shifting in the air are still fresh. Kids kinda put the kabosh to that type of lifestyle and probably prolonged my existence as a sideline.

Certainly appreciate the tips and advice. I will be hauling a new pull behind trailer and plan to have about 200 pounds of cargo in that trailer for the trip. My wife and I are not big folks and together we weigh about 300 pounds so should be pretty good to go. It's going to be a long trip and now with empty nest we have the time available. I've ordered all new filters, and have all new fluids for the bike. I was planning to change the clutch hydraulic fluid as it's darker in the sight glass than the front brake but they'll both be changed with DOT III fluid. I don't have any leaks or drips and have looked at all the rubber hoses closely and don't see anything amiss with the tank on other than the current fueling problem. I'm assuming this has never been apart other than routine oil changes so wanting to change everything out and will address the splines too. I assume synthetic wheel bearing grease is up to this task? Brake pads, (F&R) look to have plenty of meat left to them and the tires are new Metzler brand 880's. I actually have a spare set of brake pads for when they are needed. A small roadside tool kit will be carried in the trailer as there will be room including tire changing tools. I've borrowed my son's lift and will weld up a jig to lift the bike. It has "Bubb" exhaust and one of the baffles has broken free so need to find it and weld it back in place. Only rattles occasionally but it's annoying..... What would be thoughts on going with synthetic engine oil and rear gear lube? Having a wet clutch I'm kind of at a loss due to experience.

Thanks for the support. I too believe the problem is/will be easily isolated once I have parts available and in front of me. I don't tend to half a$$ repairs on anything so if I find wear, the will be replacements. I don't mind the cackle at all if it's normal and will leave that AIS alone at least until this misfire thing is figured out. Really liking the bike so far once I got over the heavy weight on the tank feeling at low speed thing. I'm going to tighten the steering head bearings when it's down as it just "falls" into a turn right now and is easily off center at low speed.

I'm getting ready to pull my first full service on my bike and not opposed to really getting into it as we are looking at a 3K+ trip in September to celebrate my retirement. I will change all fluids and grease anything needing attention. If you would please suggest what to address through experience so I can get it covered. We plan to visit Mt. Rushmore, Yellowstone, the Smokey Mountains, and ride the Blue Ridge Parkway so quite a bit of seat time on the bike with about 50% camping, 50% percent hotel, with some old Navy buddy's on the trip. The parkway is beautiful and last we were there was in 87 during my Navy stint. Thanks, Rob

I tend to ride in Carhart full coveralls in the winter over multiple layers and jeans w/heavy "Tee" shirts in both long and short sleeves in the summer. I always have a light windbreaker type jacket with me for the night cooldowns but I prefer to ride during the night rather than the heat of the day when the temps push 95+. One of the biggest problems I have is my feet get hot as I always wear steel toe boots or tennis shoes.

I consistently use the mid grade gasoline in everything which is 89 octane. Typically around here the price difference is about 10 cents per gallon and all four vehicles gain an extra two to three mpg offsetting the cost. My 99 Durango w/360 V8 yields more favorable delivered mpg related to cost than the additional cost per gallon making it less expensive to run the higher octane fuel. The same holds true with my 96 Dodge 3500 pickup w/488, (V-10) engine.

# 1 carburetor is definitely suspect as the pooling of gasoline is consistent on this one. This wreaks of gasoline/Seafoam mix. The bike is smoothing through it's power band but still struggles upon light acceleration. I've not pulled any plugs or hoses to ascertain if they are full of gasoline, but an uneducated guess at this point leads to a plethora of fuel flow problems so will wait for the parts to come in and plan on tearing into it. I don't notice any flooding and no smoking, but the exhaust pipes do have minor carbon "sooting" which is not oily at all. There is quite a bit of cackle upon deceleration but it varies in intensity and is not consistent in tone. I'm suspecting there is a fuel problem in a cylinder on each side of the engine as the two rear cylinders were a bit "colder", (via thermocouple readings) than the front two. I've thought about plugging the AIS but really don't want to get off the beaten path at this point. I know there is a problem and don't wish to induce additional variables into the equation at this time. Given these new findings I'll revisit my new buddy at the Yamaha dealership to discuss further. I may wish to order additional parts as these may go in the submersion bath for cleaning. The methylene chloride based cleaner I use is not very friendly to some plastic parts so will need to discuss further to avoid destroying anything. Getting kinda tired of kicking myself in the hindquarters given it's my fault through negligence, and ready to get the subject behind me. The more miles I put under me, the more I like it. I even get compliments from the guys whom ride Harley-Davidson bikes also which is vastly different around here. It's all good however.

Thanks man, really appreciate it and will relay back with results. I'll pick the trailer up sometime in July. Rob

The tank of fuel in it now is eight ounces to a full tank. I will dump the other 1/2 of this Seafoam container in the tank later this morning and fill up again. I've been riding the bike daily and it runs pretty good at full throttle. I do tend to run it right in the spot where it's troublesome, (57mph in fourth, 62mph in fifth) purposely to work that jet area of the carbs. Last evening I did notice some seeping around cylinder #1 carburetor boot and the rest are very dry. This is a first. The vacuum cap one removes to sync the carbs is soaked with a liquid drop hanging after a couple of hours riding so nailing it down so to speak. Also see evidence this area is an active drip onto the engine topside. Wish I knew how to post photos as I take several daily. I just installed new NGK Iridium plugs late last week. The formers were very clean burning and looked to have many miles of service remaining.

I've seen a few photos of folks having a two or three compartment storage compartment bag on top of the cowl of their bike. I kinda like this idea but would like to know what brand is best, or which and why to avoid and in particular. Ebay is loaded with them but I'd rather go with something tried and true. Thanks, Rob

Remittance sent. Pls advise you received properly. Thanks, Rob

You've expended the time and help many on the site from what I've seen so I'd rather support your endeavor. I'm not real versed in this site yet but go ahead and PM me your email as I can't see sent messages. I can send a check or paypal yet tonight for the harness. Thanks, Rob

I had replied to one of his earlier posts but if he makes up the harnesses that could be attached to my unit, I'll go that way. Thanks, Rob

Thanks. I have barely over 13K on the clock and it ran fantastic prior to setting so long. It is actually getting better as I ride with the Seafoam cleaner intermixed into the fuel but it's taking a while. Rob