Jump to content

V7Goose

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,588

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    The shop manual is available for free download on this site. Cough up for a membership and I'll tell ya where to find it! Goose
  2. V7Goose
    This information is not correct. The side stand switch is OPEN when the stand is down. It certainly seems suspicious that the problem may have started when you first touched the cruise system, but I suspect that is simply a coincidence since I do not find any circuits that should tie your problem to the cruise. Just for grins, please make sure the cruise on/off switch is really OFF (switch it on/off a few times, then leave it off and try the bike again). I suggest this only because I know that switch is often left always in the 'middle' position, which is technically neither on nor off (the cruise system is not 'on' until the switch is momentarily pushed on the 'on' side, which activates a self-locking power relay). I still do not think it is related to your problem, but worth a 10 second test. Now, let's talk about the actual circuits that are involved in the problem you report: For the engine to run, the ignitor must receive a ground on the 'SS' terminal. This ground is either supplied via the neutral switch (through a diode inside the starter cut-off/fuel pump relay) or through the side stand switch when in the up position. The side stand ground is also isolated by a diode (#12 on the schematic). In either case, the needed ground is routed through a separate section of the ignition switch to the SS pin on the ignitor. The easy test would simply be to unplug the two-wire plug to the ignition switch and just shunt the Blue/Black wire straight to ground, which should allow the engine to run no matter what position the neutral or side stand switches are in. HOWEVER, since both ground sources are isolated by diodes, I am hesitant to suggest that test, as there may be some risk to the ignitor by providing the direct line to ground without a diode. So, how to do the easiest tests? I would simply pull the plug from the ignition switch and use an ohm meter to check for ground continuity on the Blue/Yellow wire when either the bike is in neutral or the side stand is up, but NOT when the bike is in gear and the side stand is down. Unfortunately, from reading your other posts, It seems you are not well versed on the use of an ohmmeter or electronics, so the diodes in these circuits may be problematic for you to perform this test. Note that ultimately you may need to not only test the ground continuity through the switches, but ALSO the state of the diodes to make sure neither of them is shorted, so if your troubleshooting gets to this point, you may need some in-person help from someone who understands those tests. But for now, here is a simple test that requires no meter. Both of these ground switches also control the starter motor through a different section of the starter cut-out relay, allowing us to use the starter as a simple check of the ground circuits. I will start by assuming your neutral switch and associated diode are working simply because your bike runs in neutral. Does your neutral light come on in neutral and go off in gear? Now the tests - turn the key on and put the bike in gear so the neutral light is out - now raise the side stand. Does the neutral light stay out? If not, then the diode in the starter cut-out/fuel pump relay is bad. Next, with the key still on, the bike still in gear, and the side stand still up, pull in the clutch and try the starter (don't try to actually start the bike, just note if the starter engages). Does it engage? If not, then the problem is either the side stand switch, diode 12, or the related wires. If the starter does engage in that test, try it again with the side stand down (key on, in gear, clutch in). Now the starter should NOT engage, simply proving that the side stand switch is working by removing the necessary ground. Let us know the results of those simple tests and we'll figure out where to go next. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    An air compressor cannot be used in the stock power outlet - ALL of them pull more than 5 amps. Some people may have changed the fuse to a higher one and think it is successful, but this should never Never NEVER!!!! be done! Not only do you run a big risk of melting wires and plastic, and possible starting a fire in the bike, but the supplied voltage to the compressor will be lower than required due to the loss from tiny wires. That generates more heat in the compressor and will likely damage it. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    As I have noted in many other threads on this subject, the AIS on these bikes does NOT cause popping or backfires (actually called an afterfire, not a backfire). Any stock Royal Star with nothing wrong with it will NOT bang or pop when the AIS is working - if it is doing this, there is something WRONG with the bike that needs to be fixed! It is true that plugging or removing the AIS will often stop an afterfire, but that does not fix the real cause, it just masks the symptom. It is pretty much the same as if you have a passenger that is constantly telling you that your have a very low tire, and instead of fixing the tire, you just shove them off the bike - the tire remains a problem, but you just don't have to listen to someone telling you about it any more! Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Stay very far away from their junk paint unless you are just trying to fix up the bike and immediately sell it (and do not care if you screw your buyer!). See this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50263&highlight=paint Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Obviously the best test of an ohmmeter is to check the reading of some known resistance (such as a resistor from an electronics store). But if you do not have anything like that laying around, here are some very rough numbers from a couple of household light bulbs: A standard 40 watt 110V bulb will show somewhere between 25-50 ohms, and a little 4 watt night light bulb will be around 400 ohms. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    Just a couple of other thoughts on the strange variable resistance reading you are getting on the coil - If you have a digital ohmmeter, make sure it is not in the diode-check mode instead of straight resistance. Secondly, check the battery in the ohmmeter. Even analog meters must have a battery specific to the ohm function even though no battery is needed for voltage or amp readings, and digital meters often have two different batteries, one to power the meter, and a separate one just to power the ohm function (commonly a single AA battery). If that battery is very weak, the supplied voltage while it is connected to a load will drop steadily, causing the reading to change the longer you have the meter connected. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Typically a coil will never read higher than the specification - if some of the windings are shorted, it can read lower, but never higher (other than completely open). And there is nothing about a coil that could ever allow the reading to vary as you describe. If your meter is good and you have good connection with the test leads, then the only logical cause would be a poor or corroded wire connection, such as a bad crimp in the plug, or a cold solder joint. Since the pickup coil is a sealed unit, there is no way to find and test/fix a poor solder joint, but the plug connections could be bad. To test the coil while bypassing the connector, use a couple of straight pins and push them through the wires near the coil, then connect the meter to the pins. The combined starter cutout/fuel pump relay does have many diodes in it that allow various ground connections to reach the ignitor (totally unrelated to either of the relays!), and it absolutely can cause the problem you are having. The full description of these circuits is fairly complicated and far beyond what I can do at this time, but I have covered them in older threads. But until you can get a proper resistance reading from the pickup coil, I wouldn't spend any time looking into a different problem. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    If you have measured the pickup coil correctly, it is bad. The resistance should only be about 200 ohms. If you are reading anything at all with the meter set on the 200K scale, then the coil is basically open. On that hign of a scale, the meter will show a 200 ohm resistance as basically 0. BTW - while there are thousands of different meters available, and it would be impossible for me to know what your specific one looks like, a 200K scale would be VERY unusual for resistance if it is an analog meter - are you sure you are using the meter correctly? Ohmmeters typically have scales that increment in powers of 10 to make them easy to read, like this: Rx1, Rx10, Rx100, Rx1K, etc. A 200K scale on a digital meter would not be abnormal, but the pickup coil would only show .001 on such a high setting. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    The fuel pump relay on the 2nd Gen is a LOT more than a fuel pump relay. It actually contains the starter relay also, plus a bunch of diodes that route various ground circuits to the ignitor. All the information shared so far still says this problem has nothing to do with fuel supply. Fixing it by replacing the fuel pump relay is still a fix, but it does not mean the fuel pump was not running. But then again, I have seen plenty of cases where the rider was so out of tune with his own machine as not to be able to tell the symptoms of fuel starvation. Just because one person says it dies instantly without any signs of fuel loss does not prove that is what is happening! Goose
  11. V7Goose
    If your description here is accurate, it is not the fuel pump. The ignition switch is most likely, but could easily be the sidestand interlock switch or other wire problem. Even the pickup coil is possible, but that is a rare failure. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    The good news is that your problem should be relatively easy to sort out. The bad news is that it is only relatively easy with a reasonable level of technical skill. I'd bet your primary jets are mostly clogged and the carbs need a good clean out. Beyond that, since the problem sounds intermittent, the ignition switch is a likely problem - easy to test with an ohm meter if you can read the schematic. The pickup coil could also be loose or have a bad wire/connection. There are other things that could cause it, but those are the most likely. Any way you can bring the bike down to Fort Worth? It's really not that far away. If you are interested, give me a call and we can talk about what I can do for you and possible costs. I do not charge to help members do basic maintenance and troubleshooting, but I do for bigger jobs like carb cleaning, valves and steering head or swing arm bearings. I used to do those for free too, but too many freeloaders started crawling out of the woodwork for the free work - had to control it! But my costs are still less than half of what any shop will typically charge, and I do the work WITH you as a training session. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    The problem here is that the bike has a leaking needle valve on one of the floats. The stock pump has a positive fuel shutoff, meaning that no gas can drain through it when the power is off. The most commonly used aftermarket pump does NOT have a positive fuel shutoff; therefore, if any of the float valves do not completely seal, gas can drain through the carb at a slow rate and into the intake boot. If the intake valve on that cylinder happens to be open when the engine is stopped, the gas will slowly run through the cylinder via the ring end gaps, diluting the oil, but not causing hydro lock. However, if the intake valves are not open, the leaking fuel will pool in the intake port. As soon as the engine is cranked, all the liquid gas will quickly get sucked in and cause the hydro lock on the first revolution. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Do you still have a stock fuel pump? Do you turn off your fuel when parked? If the answer to either question is "no", then there is a slight possibility you have a leaking float valve and experienced hydro lock from liquid fuel in cylinder. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    The easiest test of the full ignition circuit would be to simply swap the rear coils. No need to actually remove them - just reverse the plug wires and the trigger wires on the coils. If you also swap the rear plugs at the same time, you will have conclusive proof in one test for the entire ignition circuit except the ignitor. I do not know of any way to check the ignitor other than either replacing it or using an auto scope to observe the spark curve. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    I do not know about the mid-90s bikes. I believe that the 1st gens had replaceable plug wires, but the RSVs do not. The plug cap unscrews from the wire, but the wire is bonded into the coil. Your bike could go either way, but more likely it is like the current bikes. I'm sure someone who knows will jump in and give the right answer soon. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    I do not think an exhaust leak would cause your problems, but I wouldn't rule it out, either. Do make sure the header bolts are tight and any gaskets are in place and working. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Just a point of clarification - a loud bang would be an afterfire (explosion in the muffler), not a backfire (explosion back through the carb). I do not have experience with your specific model of bike, so it is quite possible there is an easy and common cause of your problem which I cannot list. In general, however, popping at all RPM would most likely be ignition related - either bad plug, plug cap, wire or coil. If it was fuel related, it would almost certainly go away under either low or high throttle since they use different fuel circuits. Even a major vacuum leak would generally become insignificant when the throttle is more than 1/2 open. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    Just a note for anyone reading this thread and trying to learn about the intake system and carbs - this is not a correct description of how the intake system or CV carbs work - just one example, intake manifold vacuum is highest when the throttle is CLOSED, not open. Do your research to find better information. But I do agree completely that changing the stock intake system is a very bad idea. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Tell us where the bike is located. Maybe there will be a knowledgeable member near it who can help you check it out. The carbs are dry unless the current owner has been trying to start it. But always good to open the drains anyway, just to make sure they are empty in case someone has been messing with it. Just having one bowl full of gas evaporate in those carbs way back in 2007 wouldn't gum them up in any way, BUT, that does not suggest they were not already a mess when it was parked. If it continues to take a lot of choke to keep it runing longer than about 2 minutes on a COLD start, if there are any problems getting it to take throttle off idle, or if a fingertip test shows one or more cylinders not heating quickly on a cold start, then you are going to have to pull the carbs for a proper cleaning. Seafoam and other good products can help a lot, but they cannot do anything at all for a jet that is completely plugged. You absolutely must do the COOL-start fingertip test to be sure all four cylinders are firing at idle - it is impossible for a new owner to tell if this engine is running on only three instead of four jugs just by reving it and riding it - the engine runs THAT good on only three! Even some experienced owners have been known to ride it cross-country on just three cylinders without being sure that something was wrong. Yes, the floats are too high if no one has ever had the carbs off - but that is true of 100% of RSVs, so it is nothing to even think about until you are ready to pull the carbs for a proper cleaning. When you drain the tank, TAKE IT OFF, so you can turn it on the front left side where the valve is and make sure it all gets out - when sitting on the bike, somewhere between 1/2 and 1 gallon will be left on the right side. After you get it running with fresh gas and run a tank of strong Seafoam treatment through it, change the fuel filter. If you have trouble getting it to run right, such as sputtering and missing under high throttle, change that filter before you waste any time looking for other causes (but do not mistake hitting the rev limiter at 6,500 RPM for fuel supply problems). As others have already said, I would not suggest you try and ride it home unless you first have a chance to check it all out properly and change all the fluids. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    The Silverstar ULTRA is specifically labeled to have both a brighter light and a thicker filament for longer life in vibration environments than the regular Silverstar. There have been a few people here complain about not getting a long life from Silverstar bulbs - I suspect it may have been because they did not buy the ULTRA, but I have no way of knowing. I DO know that my Ultra has been in for 5 years and 100,000 miles with no problems at all. There may be many other bulbs just as good, but my experience with the Silverstar ULTRA has been perfect, so that is what I use and recommend. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Many of us here swear by the Sylvania Silverstar ULTRA - it is an excellent choice. Just be sure not to buy a normal Silverstar - it must be an ULTRA for the brightest light and extended bulb life in a high-vibration environment. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    I appreciate all the suggestions and ideas - keep 'em comin'. Thanx Mike - Gatesville is a nice area and it sounds interesting - we are in contact. Hey Tom, sure sorry I missed you the two times I stopped by this week. We picked up the trailer on the way home yesterday morning - what an UGLY day for a ride! 300 miles in nothing but solid muddy road spray and low 40s! I'll give you a call later and see if you have any more information on that property - sounds interesting. Wes, there is some really nice property out in that direction, but we have decided we definitely want to stay west of I35 and in the Hill Country. I do appreciate the tip though. Thanx Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Just thought I'd try a Hail Mary here -who knows when you might connect - We have been looking for the perfect retirement home/property in the Texas Hill Country for the past year - found lots of interesting places, but nothing just right yet. Want 10+ acres for privacy and hunting, plus a decent home Privacy and seclusion a must, live water a HUGE plus. Willing to buy separate hunting property if we find the right home site on too small acreage Our favorite areas are Bandera, Wimberly, and Llano, but anywhere in the Hill Country is possible. On the very slight chance anyone out there has a lead on Hill Country property, give me a shout! Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Mine do not get "too hot" - that is why there are both low and high settings. It all depends on how you use them. If you were to turn them on high and leave them there on a 50 degree ride, yeah, that would be too hot after a while. But on a 20 degree ride, the high setting is never too hot. I do not think the Mylar wraps would work at all like you propose. They are intended to be wrapped on the outside of the metal bar with the grips on top of them. In that installation, you still have a huge heat loss directly to the metal bar, but some of the heat is transmitted directly to the grips too. If you simply put them inside the bars, then the heat would have to be strong enough to completely heat the bar ends before it could ever transfer into the grips. There ARE grip heaters that are designed to be installed inside the bar ends - they look like brass plugs. But they would still need a much higher current draw to do the job. Goose
×
×
  • Create New...