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V7Goose
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Everything posted by V7Goose
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Gee, I hate to be the only nay-sayer here, but I have to absolutely disagree with any statements that a lot of metal shavings in the rear oil are normal and should just be ignored! NO WAY. Maybe fine metal particles that kind of glisten in the sunlight and make a pasty coating on the magnet, but NOT anything that is big enough to recognize as a "shaving". I did the initial 600 mile service on my 05, and there was NO evidence of metal in that oil, and the same the next time I changed it. My 07 already had 3000 miles on it when I bought it, so I cannot comment on the initial change on it. However, I must repeat, if you see any pieces of metal beyond the miniscule kind of particles that stay suspended easily and cause the oil to slightly glisten in the sunlight, you should consider your machine to have real problems. Goose
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His internet problems seem to happen a lot, and they aren't just in ordering. Seems fairly common that you can't get to his page at all. I'm not knocking him - I have one of his hitches and love it, but contacting him can be a bear if you do not already have his phone number! Goose
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You will find lots of older threads on this subject, but yes, this is very normal. I and many others have found that the manual is wrong - it says you have 1 gal left for reserve, but reality is 1.5 gallons. And the light does come on a bit before you have to switch to reserve. In addition, it is almost impossible to completely fill the tank unless you have vented the filler neck, so you probably had at least 1/2 gallon air left on top after you filled it. Goose BTW - I have pushed my 05 to the limit on reserve many times (taking 5.8 and 5.9 gallons on the fill-up), and 60 miles is my expected range on reserve. Even so, I start getting nervous around 40.
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I'm not sure about the cause of the exhaust smell, but the leaking Y pipe joints are a common problem (especially prevalent on 05 and 06 models). Both of mine were leaking enough to discolor the chrome shields with exhaust gas deposits, but I never smelled it while riding. These joints are not welded, just crimped, and the picture in the other thread referenced above shows exactly where they leak. Freebird had the smell problem big time last summer riding out to Fort Collins. We searched everywhere for exhaust leaks, but didn't find anything significant except one Y pipe. We fixed that with JB Weld and it almost completely solved his problem. One other suggestion for you is to check the Air Injection System. A lot of owners disable/remove this because they think it is the only way to solve the popping/after-fire problem (not true, but a common misbelief). If the previous owner did this and did not properly cap the connections at the exhaust ports, you could have a leak there. Also, even if you don't have an exhaust leak but the AIS is disabled, this might be causing your smell problem. The AIS is supposed to inject air into the exhaust system to allow the unburned hydrocarbons to burn before they pollute the air, so without it, you could have a particularly smelly exhaust? Just a thought, as I have never done a before/after comparison (I do not disable my AIS).
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I really struggled to get the residual stick-um off the tank when I took the stickers off my 05. Some people say Goo Gone works, but didn't do nuthin for me. I also tried acetone, paint thinner, lighter fluid, WD-40, alcohol, etc. etc., and NONE of it really seemed to help much. Some softened the goo to make it a little easier to scrape, but still left a lot of residue. Took me a long time and a lot of hard scrubbing with a rag to eventually get it all off. I dreaded this chore on my 07, but I found a perfect solution! Goof Off (any hardware store) will eat at the plastic sticker and soften the stick-um, making it pretty easy to scrape the sticker off with a thumbnail, but the leftover stick-um will still be hard to wipe completely off. I found a spray can of stuff from MG Chemicals at Fry's Electronics called Label & Adhesive Remover that takes the glue off just as easy as wiping up jelly with a wet sponge! Didn't seem to do much on the sticker, so I made it a two step process - Goof Off first to scrape the sticker, then a quick spray on the leftover goo and a wipe with a rag and done. Sooooo much easier than the fight I had with my first RSV, and no waiting around for the stuff to eventually get soft - almost instant gratification. The whole job couldn't have taken more that a couple of minutes. Goose
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Do a search on my posts - around mid summer of this year . . . I'd put serious money on your problem being cracked and hardened rubber caps on the two intake manifold nipples. If you have any kind of a vacuum leak, you will have this problem. Easy fix without messing with your emissions controls. However, an old bike siting for so long with so few miles can have quite a few things that contribute to this problem. Carbs not working perfectly (gummed up) will definitely exacerbate it - better run some Sea Foam through it. Fouled plugs also - easy and cheap to change. Goose
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Over drive light??
V7Goose replied to Bob tigerman Kirby's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Replace the bulb. Goose -
If they put the rear axle bushing in backward, the wheel has some slop in it - could cause your symptoms. Goose
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I rode every day to/from work, shopping, etc. for three years on my 05 before I retired this year, and I use the headsets 100% of the time, so mine got a lot of use and abuse in plugging, unplugging, twisting, etc. Several things I have learned From that and my experience as an avionics com tech: The tapered ribbed rubber sleeve over the end of the cord near the plug is intended to act as a strain relief and make the cord bend slowly near the end to prevent breaking of the wire. With lots of use, this outside rubber piece will eventually break down or break, thus becoming ineffectual. You can repair that just by smearing a moderate coat of silicone sealant all over it and a short way down the cord, keeping it tapered to provide the same benefit in making a slow bend in the cord. Actually, the stuff I prefer for this is called Heavy Duty All Purpose Welder. It comes in a silver tube and creates a thick solid coating somewhere between Silicone and Goop in consistency. Don't use too much, as you need it to bend slightly just from the weight of the cord. The 5-pin DIN plug that connects to the bike (on the top of the tank) will usually go bad before anything else. This type of connector is notorious for loosening up and causing intermittent problems. Replacing the cord MAY help, but the problem is usually in the female side of the plug (on the bike). As long as there aren't any broken wires, I have had 100% success in permanently solving problems with this plug by using hemostats to create a slight "S" curve in each pin (very slight - almost cannot tell it when you look). This causes the pins to continue making good contact even as the socket wears out. Sometimes I have to slightly bend the outside metal barrel of the plug also, to ensure the ground continues to make a good connection. A plug treated this way will fit much tighter on a bike where the female jack isn't already worn from use, so I don't do it unless I begin having problems. Determining just where your problems are is NOT always easy. Reaching up and fiddling with the cord where it attachés to the helmet will move the whole cord enough to cause the bad DIN connection to cut in and out, even though you are not messing with that plug. To test the DIN connector, try just slightly twisting it when your are having the problems (like trying to unscrew the plug). This will cause the pins to push against one side of the plug and stop an intermittent problem for a while. As for sound quality - I did a review a few months back on this site of the different levels of J&M headsets. In short, the middle grade of headset SUCKS! No bass. Either go for the cheapest J&M and save your money, or dump the big bucks to get their premium headset. Here is an open offer to all here - I can fix just about any problem with J&M headsets except for a broken pin on the short cord. I'd be happy to provide these repairs for any of our members. Just slip your cord and/or headset in a $4.65 flat-rate Priority Mail envelope and send it to me. The only thing I ask is that you pay for the return shipping too. If you have the mid-range junky sounding J&M headsets and want better sound, I can replace the speakers. I think the cost is about $25 for a pair, but I'll have to check to be sure. Ride Safe and , Goose
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On my 05, the stock Brickstones were HORRIBLE and the rear was toast in 8,000 miles. I experimented with Avon Venoms and the MT90 front tire and was very impressed with how much this improved the handling with stock suspension links. After I added the shorter links to raise the rear, I did not like the MT90 and went back to 150/80 in front. I have gotten at least 14,000 out of each Venom rear tire. I just picked up an 07 RSV with stock suspension and almost new Avon Venoms in stock size. I can tell you that the handling is excellent. I now believe that there is no reason to go to the narrower front tire, even with stock suspension links, if you run Avon Venom tires. The improvement over the stock Brickstones is nothing short of phenomenal. When my 05 was new, with perfect new Brickstone tires, the slow speed handling was miserable. This 07 with stock size Avon tires has wonderful slow speed handling. No other differences between the bikes. Goose
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Hi all - I am happy to say that I was finally able to go get my "new" 07 RSV (to replace the 05 I crashed back in August). My broken collar bone is healing well, if a bit slow due to the amount of bone overlap. Anyway, the point of this post is to see if someone is interested in swapping trunk lids with me. I really don't like the way the rear trunk wing looks mounted on this bike, so the easiest option would be to swap trunk lids with someone who has a blue 07 and wants what I have. Here are some pictures of my trunk: [ATTACH]12925[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]12926[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]12927[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]12928[/ATTACH] If you have a stock blue trunk lid, I'd swap it for the discounted price of the rack and wing on mine - $360. That way you get a perfect trunk lid with the rack and wing already mounted for less than you can probably buy the rack and wing alone. For a trunk lid with only the rack installed, I'd swap for $230 (discounted cost of the wing). If you are interested and within a couple of hundred miles of Dallas, Texas, let me know. I don't mind riding to meet you, but shipping the trunk lids somewhere probably does not make much sense.
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Hay Jim, I'm going to be in Wichita on Tuesday picking up my new RSV from a friend. Heading up to KC for the night, then back to North Texas. Let me know if your plans cross mine on those dates - love to meet up for a coffee or a beer. Goose
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Actually, a twist lock connection is a very good connection. In fact, any mechanical connection (metal to metal contact between the two pieces) is superior to a pure solder connection. The biggest potential problem with a mechanical connection is the potential for eventual loosening from vibration or other forces. The best possible solution is a good crimp connection which is then soldered for permanency. If you do decide to solder and shrink wrap the joints, the best idea is to ensure the wires are first tightly twisted together before soldering. Now, the reality of automotive 12V connections is that the minor resistance increase from pure solder connections is meaningless. Either use good wire nuts or solder on any connection, and you will be just fine. Goose
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Yup, that's the ticket. A lot of these bikes have that weak lid strut bent up before they are even sold from unknowing folks messing with them on the showroom floor. When I bought my 05, I had the same problem. About a month after I bought it, I was at a bike show where the RSV on the floor there was miraculously still in pristine shape, and I saw how far it was supposed to open. I did exactly like Don described, just gently pushing it open against the pressure of the bent strut, slowly bending the mounting plate back into the correct position. No problems with it at all in the next 35,000 miles. Goose (when all is working as it should, the trunk lid should open to a completely vertical position - straight up - and stay there all by itself if you don't want to lean if back to rest on the strut lock).
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This is a real bummer Don! I can certainly understand your position and the problem caused by the outrageous fees charged by your bank (mine only charges $5 for a returned item). I'm really sorry to see you put in such an unfair position. The biggest problem may be the impasse it causes some of us in the future. Although I cannot fault your concern about taking personal checks, since I personally refuse to use Paypal for any reason at all, that would leave me in the cold if I wanted to send you money (which I have done in the past). I use my credit card for everything, but that does not work for individuals. I hope we can find a middle ground. Goose
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Need intercom plug replacement info
V7Goose replied to Monsta's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
DIN plugs are notorious for getting loose and creating intermittent connections. Replacements are easy to make, but I find that by using a set of hemostats, I can put a little "s" curve in each pin of the male plug that solves the problem. Maybe not for ever, but I have yet to have one I have treated like this go bad again. If you want to try to fix the female side of the plug, find a very small pick (like a dentist's pick) and carefully stick it into the plug between the metal contacts and the surrounding rubber of each pin. Be careful; you don't want to bend this metal much, just enough to make it hug the pin when the plug is reinserted. Goose -
Hey folks, I'm going up to Wichita, Kansas on October 16th to pick up my "new" 07 RSV from a friend there. Probably gonna take a quick run up to KC to see a friend there, then head back to North Texas. Sure love to see anyone who would like to meet up along the way or maybe do a bit of riding together. My broken collar bone seems to be healing OK, and I'm really looking forward to getting back on the road! Goose
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Oh yes they do work with these rims - I have already changed 4 sets with mine. Goose
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Oh yes they do work with these rims - I have already changed 4 sets with mine. Goose
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Very sorry to hear about your accident. Your leg sounds like mine looked in 1975. Hopefully with modern technology it will heal faster and better than mine did. Hang in there; life is not fun at this stage, but it does get better fast, once the "reality" of the moment wears off and you realize that life goes on.
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Use Goof Off - let it sit for a bit. Soak a little strip of cloth or paper towel if you need to keep it on the glue. Goose
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I don't know what exactly is broken, but you might consider JB Weld for a repair. I have used it for permanent repairs on engine cases before. You could even use it to permanently install the existing drain plug after drilling and tapping it for a slightly smaller replacement plug. Good luck, Goose
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Yes, it is ABS plastic. You will find this stamped inside the bag lids. Goose
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IMHO - it's is idiotic unless you have tree wheels on the ground. I won't go into too many of the reasons I feel that way, as you probably know them as well as I do. But here's one: On my RSV, when the rear tire gets a flat profile from wear (instead of the rounded shape it starts with), the handling is VERY MUCH WORSE. Some tires, such as the stock Brickstones, are even worse than worse when they loose the rounded shape. So much worse, that I found the RSV quite dangerous when encountering ridges or ruts in the pavement during the last few thousand miles of that tire. The author of the article to which you linked actually notices the same thing with his car tire, but he just downplays it and says it does not bother him: "The other difference is in what I'll call "bump steer" Varying terrain, such as a ridge on the road, a track in a dirt road, or an angle or crown to the road will give much more feedback than they do on a motorcycle tire. The bike will have the tendency to turn downhill. At highway speeds this is not an issue (not felt), at lower speeds, again, it requires a firm hand on the handlebars and the bike remains well behaved. It is just telling you what it feels on the road. You feel the steering inputs, you do not have to accept them. I prefer the feel, as it puts me much more in touch with what's going on with the road conditions." So, each person must make his or her own decision on these things, but mine is clear: never on my bike without a hack. Goose