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V7Goose
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Tachometer for RSV
V7Goose replied to Silver Dollar's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Yes, the yellow wire is for the dash lights, so unless you have added a separate circuit for that, just combine it with the red for switched power on. Goose -
I sure hope they can do more for her clavicle than they did for mine (nothing). Even with a huge off-set in the bone ends, they just said to live with it. Been six months now and just getting close to healed. Would have been sooner if the bone had not been so badly offset. Good luck to both of you - as things go, and especially after looking at the bike pix, a broken clavicle is probably one of the better things that could have happened! Goose
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I have had ZERO problems relying on the fuel gauge on my RSV for 45,000 miles. Very consistent, including when the low fuel light comes on and when I have to switch to reserve on the tank valve. Actually, I usually just leave the tank on reserve all the time and rely completely on the gauge and fuel trip meter to plan my fuel stops. Goose
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Tachometer for RSV
V7Goose replied to Silver Dollar's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Unfortunately, I don't remember specifics of the wire connections - they are documented elsewhere on this site or the other Venture sites. One of the coils is right under the tank, so that is an easy connection point. I tapped one of the hot wires coming off the ignition switch for the main power - I got "lucky" in a weird way - the wire I chose goes dead when I turn on the four-way flashers! I thought this was strange and a PIA at first, but I have come to like it as an extra reminder if I leave the flashers on for some reason. You may find the blue LED light in that tach too bright at night - many do. Easy to reduce it with a small dropping resistor in series. Try around 100 - 150 ohms as a start and go to 220 or 330 if you still want it dimmer. Goose -
I purchased my cooler rack here: http://www.alsmotorcycleaccessories.com/ They have a number of options and build it when you order. Good place. Goose
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Just about everyone thinks the stock mounting for the Yamahaha saddlebag chrome trim rails is poorly done. Not only do the rails slant upward from front to rear, which makes them not match the lines of the bags, but they almost always rub on the bottom of the turn signals. There are a couple of easy fixes for this. Others have advocated drilling a new mounting hole in the bike trim below the stock one with the welded nut behind it, thus lowering the rear of the rails. This works just fine, but for some reason I didn't want to drill a new hole in the bike. So I tried an alternative - I just drilled new holes in the upper corners of the rails themselves, next to the original mounting hole. This does not lower the rail quite a much as you probably would if you drilled the new hole in the bike instead, but I think it is good. Here are a couple of pictures to show how they look when mounted this way. Sorry for the poor quality - took them with my cell phone instead of finding the good camera! Goose
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Tachometer for RSV
V7Goose replied to Silver Dollar's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
That is not the same tach - it is over 2"; the mini I use is 1 7/8". You can also tell by looking closely at the face - Drag Specialties is on the bottom instead of the top. Another key indicator in the pictures is the mounting tab - the small one shows just a straight mounting tab sticking down, and the more common 2.4" tach has a "V" shaped mounting tab. Here is one source: http://www.phatperformanceparts1.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=7805-6947 The part number for the black one is 7805-6948. I do NOT use the bar clamp that comes with this tach - it is large and uses pinch blocks that can mar the chrome. I prefer the Fomotion clock mount - very nice chrome unit, but costs about $20. I have also used a simple 1" "P" clamp from JCW - those only cost about $3. To mount it under the dash, I have to remove the bracket, put it in a vise, and bend it back 90 degrees. Here are pictures of the tach mounting and both the black and white tachs together for comparison. Sorry for the poor quality - took them with my cell phone: [ATTACH]14423[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]14422[/ATTACH] Goose -
Well, if your perception is right, this sounds quite normal to me. 170 miles and anything under 5 gal fill-up is right in the ball park for an RSV. Goose
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Well Lowell, it's bad form not to show up to your own meet n eat! And don't give me any static about crashin or breakin down, or you'll make me feel bad about raggin ya!! We missed ya (wife and I), but the weather was great and the beer was cold anyway. Oh well, I always enjoy going to Willhoite's, even if I have to eat alone. Maybe we'll catch up next time. Ride Safe Goose
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Tachometer for RSV
V7Goose replied to Silver Dollar's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I originally did a full writeup on installing a multi-gauge set, but that was before the total crash two years ago that wiped out everything on this sight, so we lost it all. I need to recreate it, but never got to doing that. Now that I have a new RSV and need to mount gauges on it too, I guess I have a reason! Anyway, I personally insist on having full gauges, including both a volt meter and an ammeter, but we all know there is not much room to mount gauges on these bikes. These pictures were from my first attempt on the 05, and I have some new ideas I am going to try on my 07 soon. You can already see how I improved the location of the tach. The triple gauge set on the left is from JCW, the gauges are smaller than 2" (rare and hard to find), and consist of ammeter, oil pressure, and water temp. The five-function digital gauge on the steering head is Showchrome, available for best price from CASporttouring.com, and has clock (so I don't need to keep switching the odometer in the dash), volt meter, and inside/outside temp. In addition, there are LED and audible warnings along with a black ice alert. Hooking up the gauges took quite a bit of figuring, but turned out to be quite simple in the end. I guess now I have to get it all re-posted, huh? -
Glad I happened to see this - I'll be there! Ride Safe, Goose
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I'll have to dig through my records to find the receipt - I'll post it in a day or two when I find it. I think the cost was around $30. I already had the buckskin sitting around, but you can do the same thing with strips of canvas. The switch and all wiring came with the elements. As you probably already know, these mylar heating elements are designed to wrap around the bar (left side) and the throttle sleeve (right side) under your stock grips, but I just stuck them on strips of buckskin to wrap on top of the stock grips. They produce a LOT of heat this way, so you really need to hook them up with both Hi and Low settings, using the supplied dropping resistor. Goose
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Unless you were tracking your total mileage on the tank and know it was way too low when you had to fill up, there is probably nothing wrong at all. The fuel gauge will read much higher after first picking it up off the side stand when the tank is close to reserve, and it takes a while for the gauge to adjust to the actual level. This is because the gauge must react slowly or it would be jumping all over the place from gas sloshing and bumps, leans, etc. All of this is not just theory - I have noticed the same relatively quick drop in the fuel gauge on both my 05 and 07 bikes when they have been sitting for a while with about 120+ miles on the tank. Since I write down my mileage on each tank with every fill up, I know for a fact that even when this happens, I am still getting normal fuel mileage on the tank. For some reason that I can't explain, it does seem to happen more often when the temps are low, but that might just be my imagination, fueled by the suggestion from your post. Goose
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There have been a couple of other threads recently about grip heaters, so I updated this original post with new comments after using my custom-made grip heaters for two seasons, and I am just bumping the thread to put it back on top for new members to easily find. Goose
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Tachometer for RSV
V7Goose replied to Silver Dollar's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Here is a picture of my tach - you can get them in white too. This is the only one of which I know that is smaller than 2" diameter. [ATTACH]14378[/ATTACH] Drag Specialties sells two tachs that are very similar - this one is the "mini" and comes complete with a mounting bracket. It is a little hard to find, as most vendors only seem to carry the larger one. Goose -
Excellent suggestion - either carb cleaner or WD40 works well for this test. Doing the test at idle is probably the best time, as that is when the manifold vacuum is normally high, and any change in engine speed or smoothness is easily noticed. Goose
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Here is a picture of where I mounted my switch between the tach and the right bar: [ATTACH]14365[/ATTACH] You can see the whole write-up of how I made the grip heaters here (unless Don has moved it to the tech library): http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=47938#post47938
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If I'm not riding, I just look out the window. If I am riding, I already KNOW! Other than that, I occasionally catch it on the news or radio - what more could I need? I sure as $%!# ain't gonna pay for it. Goose
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You do NOT need to remove the AIS valve or anything else from the bike to do this. But you DO need some way to lift the rear tire at least 1" off the ground. Putting a board under the rear of the frame and using a floor or bottle jack will do the trick, but if you try that, you better have a couple of dudes to help hold the bike steady. Once you pull the nuts off the bolts holding the original links on, you will need to remove the pressure on the rear suspension to slide the bolts out. To do this, just raise the bike (assuming you still have it sitting on the ground while removing the nuts) until the rear tire is just barely touching the ground (or anything else). Lightly pushing on the end of the bolts while you gently raise the bike will pinpoint just the right time when the bolts slide out easily. Once you have the bolts out and the old links off, you will need to either raise the bike 1" or lower the rear tire 1" to align the new links with the bolt holes and put it all back together. That is all there is to it. Goose
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I suggest that anyone looking at the cracks in rubber parts not completely trust their eyes. Do a search for my posts last summer concerning deceleration popping (after-fire) and the cracked rubber nipples on my intake manifolds. I would have bet money that the cracks in those little nipple covers were only superficial, but testing proved that they were not. Anyway, the bottom line here is that if your intake manifolds or the rubber covers on those nipples are cracked enough to leak, you WILL be getting some popping on deceleration. Soooo, if you are not getting any after-fires, then it is safe to assume all cracks are superficial. However, if you have the popping and have not been able to get rid of them by balancing the carbs and tuning, then you probably really do have a leak in your intake somewhere. Goose
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I posted extensively on this in the past - might want to do a search on the older threads. With BOTH the leveling links and the MT90 front tire, you won't have any problem when the tires are new, but as the REAR tire begins to flatten out from wear, you will notice the bike gets a bit twitchy and begins to track grooves and ridges easily. If you like the taller rear end with the leveling links, switching back to the stock front tire size will fix that. Otherwise, remove the links and leave the MT90 on the front. Of course, if you think you like them both, then just stick with them - that is your call. As someone who has tried all combinations and worn out a lot of tires on my RSV already, I think raising the rear AND switching to a narrower front tire together is a mistake. Goose
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:soapbox:I absolutely despise those jerks who choose to deliberately put others in danger just to impress themselves and try to feed their infantile ego. When I read about one of them crashing, all I can think of is how much that helps improve the human gene pool. It's a damn shame they have to hurt the image of all motorcyclists on their way out! Goose
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Are you tired of having your helmets scratched by those terrible bolts that Yamaha provides with the trunk rack? Here is an easy fix - just go to your local hardware store and pick up some low-profile replacements in M6-1.00x16 size. Here are the ones I got at Lowes: [ATTACH]14141[/ATTACH] I know this is pretty obvious, but I thought some of you might appreciate having the bolt size instead of having to remove one of the existing bolts and take it in to match up. Goose (Don, you may want to move this to the 2nd Gen tech tips.)
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Don, I applaud your effort and search for fairness, but this is not the best approach. Who is to say that this individual has not already created a new identity (or five new ones) on our site and is already laying another trap for our members? Of course, that presupposes that the individual is a bad actor, which may not be the case, but how are we to know? Are you going to try to constantly review every new classified in real time looking for similarities and making an instantaneous decision on what to purge and what not? I think not. Only by having the facts, including what was being sold, addresses and other contact information, etc., can I possibly try to protect myself from future repeats of this problem. If I do have that information, then I have the ability to do a little of my own research on any possible future transaction, including checking on the member history to try to identify similarities and decide if I should pursue a transaction or avoid it out of self preservation. I am also quite concerned that you should not shoulder the burden of this issue alone - you do way too much for us already. Let someone else take this one instead of you being forced to always be in the center of a controversy. Thank you so much for everything you do for us, but you do not need to do it all! Goose
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I think the identity and facts absolutely must be shared with all members - to do otherwise puts us all at risk and is irresponsible. BUT... how to do this without destroying our community can be a little tricky. Sharing facts is not a FLAME. Here is my suggestion: First, this should not be an open discussion or flame war - but a very tightly controlled series of posts. The parties who feel they have been wronged should write up the facts, making every effort to ensure these are just the facts, and all the facts (no emotion or editorializing). This initial post should include the identities of all parties involved. This information should be reviewed by a trio of impartial members (the "panel"), looking for assumptions and emotions that should be purged. Once this initial writeup is approved for publishing, it should be shared with the accused before it is posted. Any response provided within a set period of time needs to be reviewed by the same panel using the same criteria - once approved for publishing, both the initial charge and defense response should be posted with an "assessment" by the panel on what, if anything, they may have discovered during this process and any conclusions they have developed on their examination of the facts as presented. No responses to these posts should be allowed, either in the initial thread or any where else on the forum. If someone else not directly involved in the issue feels s/he has pertinent information that should be shared, s/he should submit it to the panel for review and a decision on how it should be included, if at all. The process I described above is a bit simplistic (in the interest of brevity), but I will be happy to have further discussions or participate in any way in which I may help. I hope we can clear the air on this issue soon. Goose