Jump to content

V7Goose

Supporting Member
  • Posts

    3,588
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. That is an interesting comment. I have occasionally forgotten to shut of the choke on many different bikes, and I have NEVER had an exhaust pop from this. Not saying this can't happen, but I don't think it is common. Of course, having the choke on is a restriction in the air flow and will increase the intake vacuum, which will cause any vacuum leak to suck more air. The actual cause of any after-fire is unburned fuel that gets into the exhaust and is then ignited. This problem has gotten much worse with newer engines that are tuned to run extra lean in an attempt to meet current emissions laws, and any vacuum leak will cause one or more cylinders to run even leaner. Here is how it works - when the mixture is overly lean, many combustion cycles do not properly ignite and leave plenty of hydrocarbons to blow into the exhaust. After a few cycles of this, the concentration of gas in the header pipes and muffler reach the point where they will ignite from the residual combustion flame that accompanies the exhaust when the valve first opens. A too-rich situation is more likely to cause a back-fire through the carb than an after-fire through the pipe. The RSV has an air injection system that injects fresh air into the exhaust headers which aids in the continued burning of any unburned hydrocarbons with the exhaust before they either get blown out into the air or reach a concentration high enough to cause a "pop" or after-fire. Two cylinders have a vacuum hose on the intake tract which controls the air injection valves. When the vacuum is high (at idle or when chopping the throttle closed), the injection valves close, thus reducing the risk of after-fires in those extra lean conditions. Intake vacuum leaks can cause after-fires by either making the mixture too lean so it does not burn properly or preventing the AIS valves from closing. Exhaust leaks can cause after-fires by providing enough fresh air to aid the ignition of the hydrocarbons in the exhaust pipe (just like having the AIS valves open at the wrong time). On the RSV, there have been numerous problems with leaking "Y" pipes that have caused exhaust popping, especially on the 05 and 06 models. However, I think the biggest cause is probably cracked caps and vacuum hoses on the intake nipples. Goose
  2. Popping on deceleration is probably after-fire caused by a vacuum leak, but can also be caused by carb sync problems and exhaust leaks. Check out the detail in this old thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12777 Good luck, Goose
  3. Huh?? Plugs are very easy to remove on a second gen. As for trying to turn it over with a wrench, be careful. I certainly would not put any undue force with a breaker bar. If something is broken and blocking a part from moving, you will just make it worse. Since you said this all started with the sound of breaking metal, you most likely have a serious problem somewhere. I would probably pull the valve covers first to verify all of the valves, springs, and keepers are still properly in place. This is very easy to do. If all looks good on the top, you can then go to the next step. Start by turning the engine BACKWARD. Gently. If you hear any metallic noises or feel any jerkiness or resistance, just stop. Your only reasonable course of action then is to open the engine and find the broken stuff (but start with the starter motor). If you can turn it in reverse without problems or noise, then try to turn it forward. Same advice as above. I do recommend you pull the plugs first, so you can detect any resistance while turning the engine and not be misled by thinking it might be compression. Even if the engine turns smoothly in both directions, I would NOT try to start it until you find the cause of your initial problem. If you have a broke piece in the transmission that dislodges when you turn it backward, but then you start the engine, prepare for major metallic explosion when that piece finds its way into the machinery!
  4. Yup, I looked at those way back when too, but I just couldn't accept the idea of paying over $300 for a gauge! It's not that I couldn't afford it, just that their price seems out of line with what I view as reality. When that happens I look for alternatives instead of supporting them. But it looks really nice, and I'm sure it will be fantastic on your bike! Goose
  5. Here is where I put the plug on my 07 (had it on the side of the trunk on the 05). Goose
  6. Here is a picture of my ugly little red utility trailer in use. Goose
  7. It's great to hear that all went well and they decided to actually do something for that bone - The only reason I posted my original comment that they did nothing for mine was so you wouldn't be surprised if they said the same thing about Lonna's. I hadn't been through this before, and I thought the first doc was some kind of quack when he said they don't usually do anything for a broken clavicle! Here is a recent picture of mine where you can just see the bone beginning to fill in between the pieces. Hope her pain goes away soon, Goose
  8. Thanx for the reply - I should have known that, as I saw your earlier response that you weren't going to fix the bike. And after seeing the pictures, I know that was a wise decision! Good luck on getting things straightened out, and I hope you are not off your wheels for too long. Sure glad you and Lonna came out of that as well as you did! Goose
  9. What plans do you have for any stock parts on the bike that are still good? I could sure use a nice RIGHT Y-pipe if it is not smashed up? Goose
  10. Always interesting to see new info - you are the first person I have ever heard that was satisfied with the Chatterbox units; they are almost universally reviled. That is not to say that others are not happy with them too, just no one has ever said so! At least none that I have seen. Personally, I would be very cautious about spending money on them, based on the preponderance of folks who dislike them. Goose
  11. I am not sure how you diagnosed the float as being just fine, but if I were you, I'd swap the float with another carb at the same time I did any more work on it. If your problem turns out to be fixed, then it matters little what caused it, but if it still leaks, you will know for certain it is not the float. And if the other carb starts to leak, well .... Goose
  12. I believe I can give you a definitive answer to this, based on my personal experience with these compressors and the horn instructions. The concern here is the problem of road debris and other things getting sucked into the compressor and then stuck in the reed valve inside the horn. If you look at the instructions that come with the Nautilus, you will see several pictures depicting this problem. They also provide an attachment that you can use to attach an intake hose and route it to a protected place. In addition, other air horns with this type of compressor but non-attached trumpets specify the mounting orientation of the compressor to keep the air intake on top. When I put the first set of air horns on my 05 RSV, I just wasn't paying much attention, and the mounting I chose for the compressor was with the air intake on the bottom (right where the stock horn is on the right side of the bike). That horn worked well for a couple of thousand miles, then one of the trumpets stopped working. I replaced them with another set I had sitting around, and the same thing happened. I was able to fix them by using my air compressor and blasting very high pressure air through the bad trumpets repeatedly until the obstruction was forced out of the reed. That is when I finally remembered about the correct mounting of the air compressor. If you put it upside down, normal wind and road spray lets crud collect near the opening, then when you use it next, all the stuff is sicked into the compressor. Based on all of the above, I believe that mounting these horns inside the fairing would be safe in any position, since the fairing should adequately protect the air intake. Goose
  13. Detailed information here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8973&highlight=headset Goose
  14. I would never consider the after market "Gold Wing" rack for this bike. I believe the inside/outside support straps are a critical element to ensure load distribution. I have used mine for many loads and long trips over 40,000 miles with absolutely no problems. Goose
  15. This is not quite correct - the proper mounting of this bag is with the wide flat Velcro strips in the front, not the rear. I would prefer they were on the other side, as I do think it looks best and fits better mounted backward, but that is not the way it is made. And to make my comments short and sweet - this bag will NOT come off! That Velcro is some mean stuff, and after I have made sure it is stuck on good, I find it VERY difficult to even pull the Velcro loose with my fingers. The bag design is a little funky, but it is functional and secure. Goose
  16. Thought I'd post some more just for other readers who might not know the difference... The original time share system was fixed week - you bought a particular week (such as week 32) and used that every year - no way to change it unless you traded it for a different resort (and paid ever increasing trade fees to do that). The good thing with this system is that you always know when you can use your unit, never have to plan ahead or make reservations. The bad is obvious - NO flexibility. Version 2 is floating weeks - you buy the right to use a week in a certain size unit every year, but no specific dates. To use it, you must compete with all other owners to schedule the specific week you decide upon and make a reservation. If you don't do this far enough in advance, then nothing is available. The good here is the great flexibility; the bad is how tough it can be to get popular dates like spring break or holidays. When trading, both fixed and floating weeks are identical - you offer your unit, and the ones you get offered back depends mostly on how desirable your resort, unit and reserved dates are. You trade one full week for one full week, no matter if you want to use the full week or not. The size of the unit you can get in trade is somewhat unrelated to the size of the unit you own - for example, you may own a hotel unit that only sleeps 2 in a very desirable location, and when you want to trade, you may find options to get everything from other hotel units to 3 bedroom penthouse suites- all just depending on what is available. There is no cost differential - your trade is the same no matter what size unit in what type of resort you accept. Version 3 is the points system. The particular unit you own is worth a fixed number of points, based on quality of resort, location, time of year and unit size. You use these points anytime you take a vacation, and how many points you use depends on exactly the type, size and quality of unit you use. For example, if you own a one bedroom unit and decide to trade into a 3 bedroom unit somewhere else, either because you need the room for friends or that is just the only thing available, you will pay WAY more points to use that bigger unit - if it is roughly an equivalent quality and price/location resort, the number of points you need might just be three years of your own unit points, but could go dramatically up or down depending on all he variables. One major difference from the weeks system is that you can use your points in fractions, for just a couple of days at a tie instead of the whole week. The upside to this system is huge flexibility, but the downside is that you effectively pay the going rate for anything and everything you use. If you own anywhere that is not popular, your points will not go very far when you want to use them. I generally like the weeks system better, since I can use larger units for no additional cost. For example, last time we went to Hawaii, we had a friend join us on the Big Island for a week; one of the resorts we were looking at had a three bedroom penthouse villa available that we picked up for no additional cost - now THAT was a great week! If I was on the points system, I would have paid a fortune for that unit (and it was the only larger one they had available, even though I didn't need one that fancy). Just some more things to think about and understand when considering owning timeshare. Goose
  17. Although I always wear leather riding pants or chaps year round, I switch my riding jacket to a Joe Rocket Phoenix jacket when the temps hit 80. Fantastic jacket with body armor built in. I highly recommend it. Goose
  18. Trust me, it is still "use it or loose it." I can bank my weeks too (and sometimes do). In fact, I am in St. Croix (US VI) today for exactly that reason - I had a week banked for three year and it was about to turn into a pumpkin on me! But if you don't use what you have this year, how are you going to use twice as much next year or four times as much when it is really "loose it" time? Of course, if you are careful and always have a lot more available vacation time than time share time, then this problem will not be too bad, but my point is that all of it eventually expires. You will find that spring break time at any location which attracts the kids is VERY hard to schedule, so if that is what you really want, better insist on a fixed week instead of floating time. Bike week may not be as bad, but don't count on it; that is the kind of surprise that can just ruin your vacation dreams, and you only find out after you own it. The best thing about a fixed week during spring break on the beach is that you can always rent it easily if you don't use it. Other than a situation like that, do not believe most of the lies the resort sales people will tell you about renting your time share. And absolutely do not believe any lies about donating it for a tax deduction. Goose
  19. You only want the dropping resistor in circuit with the light, not the power to the tach, so if you connect them to the same place, hook the light wire to the resistor, then the other side of the resistor to the power. Personally, I would slip a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the whole resistor and bare wire connections to insulate it all after I was sure I had the right size to make the dash light just as bright (or dim) as I wanted. Since this light is just an LED, the amount of current flow is very small and will not generate any heat. The smallest resistor you can find (probably 1/8th watt) is just fine, but a larger one won't hurt anything either. Goose
  20. For sure not in MN!!! I guess I should have been more specific - we are enjoying the weather in the US Virgin Islands. Have fun all, Goose
  21. I am sure you will get many opinions on this question, but the bottom line for me is Yes, they are worth it. BUT...there are some things to know. The best thing - you WILL take more vacations once you have it, since the time is "use it or loose it." I know that is not true for everyone, but it is for the majority of owners. For us, this has been worth more than anything. And we have gone many places that we would never have gone otherwise when just looking for something available for an interesting trade. Is it cheaper than just paying normal prices for a vacation? Yes and no. It certainly can be, especially if you always go to the really high end places that cost $300 - $900 and more a night, but if you just want to go to a tourist area and don't really care about the resorts, you will save more money by buying a vacation package with air included for mid-week travel. Do NOT buy from a resort - retail prices are for suckers! And yes, I DID buy all mine at retail prices! I have learned a lot since I first got into time shares. Anywhere you find one you want to buy, you can save at least 50-70% buying used. Lots of people have them and just do not use them, so would love to get rid of them. Especially as they age and do not want to travel as much. Maintenance fees can really kill you - some places just keep going up and up. A very few will lock in the maintenance and increase limits in the contract, but that is rare. Finally, there is the issue of WHERE to buy and how to trade. My advice is an either/or thing - on one hand, if there is a resort that you just love, is easy to get to, and you KNOW you will always want to use it and keep going back year after year, then that is the one for you. Buy it (used) and just enjoy it. On the other hand, if your idea is to trade and go lots of great places, then the resort you want is VERY different. a) it must be in a location that everyone else in the world wants to go (Hawaii, Cabo, and Houseboats are several examples) - this is because you need good trading value to be able to go to interesting places and 5 star resorts. b) it must be a 5-star resort too. This is not nearly as important as the location, but certainly helps; if you own a dump, fewer people will accept it, even in a good location. c) it should have LOW maintenance fees (Hawaii and Cabo are NOT good examples of this). Low maintenance cost will not make any difference in your trading power, but it will sure make you happier! Points vs weeks ownership is mostly personal preference - I'd like to have one of each (but all mine are weeks). Fixed time vs floating time is also just personal preference; although, most think that floating time is better. This only scratches the surface, but it will get you started with what you need to know to keep from being fleeced. I would be very happy to talk at length with anyone on the phone about this to help any way I can. One very interesting subject is how to play the time share game at ANY resort location in Mexico (and most in the Caribbean) to get your whole vacation for free. If you are interested in more info, give me a shout. I'd rather talk about it than write about it. Goose
  22. Hey,thanks for the offer, but right now, I wouldn't even do a mental swap for that! I like this temp better. Goose
  23. I posted an offer to let members use my Time Share units at cost here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18368 But I also got the idea that there are undoubtedly other time share owners on this sight that might consider just swapping a week straight across without having to pay the normal trading fees? If you have a time share or vacation home that you might want to trade for a week in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, give me a shout and we can talk about it. And if I hear from multiple members, I'll even keep track of it all and maybe try to organize a mini VentureRiders vacation swap group. You may not want mine in Cabo or me yours, but who knows what other matches we might find? If enough members have an interest, maybe we can even get Don to put up a vacation swap forum here? Just a thought... Goose
  24. Greetings all - just taking a few days off for a winter vacation - spending a week on St.Croix. Great weather here, but I still miss my bike! Thankfully, we do have internet connection here, so I can keep up with what is going on. The main purpose of this post is to make an offer to all VentureRider members - its been a few years since I have posted this offer, so I thought it was a good time to do it again (and my own vacation reminded me): I own several time shares, and I would be happy to let any member here use them at close to my cost for the maintenance. That would be around $800 for the full 7 day week in a 5-star luxury resort in Cabo San Lucas, a couple of hundred more if you want me to trade it for another resort anywhere in the world. The cost might be a little less, depending on the size of the unit you need). Just FYI in case you want to do a little checking on the Internet, I own units in Pueblo Bonito Rose and Hacienda del Mar (both in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico), as well as a house boat in Lake Eufalla, OK and the St. Johns River, FL. In addition to using these resorts directly, I can trade them for any of about 4,000 resorts world wide through the RCI club. My units are all floating time, so that means that you just have to decide on the week you want and I'll reserve it in your name. The last time one of our members took me up on this offer, I waited a bit too long to try to get the reservations, so I was not able to get the exact dates he wanted, but I will do my best to not let that happen again! In most cases, 3 months advance notice is plenty (often less is OK), but if you want spring break or a popular holiday, we may need up to 8 months in advance to ensure the date. I'm not trying to make money off this - just help out some of my fellow members here. The only thing in it for me is a little more flexibility to sometimes take another vacation on my bike instead of using my time shares. Send me an email or PM if you want more information or want me to check on available dates somewhere. Ride safe, Goose
  25. That trailer is actually a significant upgrade over the lowest cost red one that I use as a utility trailer. It certainly looks better, and you do get more, but it is also over twice the cost. For what I use it for, I have been very happy with my ugly little red one ($100 on sale). Goose
×
×
  • Create New...