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Everything posted by V7Goose
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This bulb (and the py21w) is correct for the rear, but you can also just buy a standard 1156 and remove one of the pins (most will just pop off with a knife blade, or you can file it or rub it on concrete). They will work perfectly. As for the front, the newer RSVs use a strange 3-pin bulb, so the 7225/BAZ15d is not correct (only has two pins, just like the bulb above). It is possible that it may work, but I cannot say for sure - the pins may be reversed, or the filaments might be reversed. HOWEVER, no need to experiment with them, just buy a standard 1157 and remove the lower pin! The remaining high pin is indexed correctly to install the bulb with the correct filament connections (low for running light, bright for turn), and it will stay in place forever. Goose
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Turn signals auto cancel?
V7Goose replied to Vance's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I bet your manual does mention it - look on page 3-7: [ATTACH]17610[/ATTACH] Even though the Note in the manual specifically says the self cancel function does not work when stopped, it seems to take a few seconds to switch into that mode, which is why they may cancel very shortly after stopping. Goose -
Turn signals auto cancel?
V7Goose replied to Vance's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
If your signals canx while you are sitting still (and have been still for more than about 5 seconds), you DO have a malfunction and should have it looked at if it concerns you (with one exception, noted below). The system is specifically designed to NOT canx while sitting still. This is a cut/paste from the user's manual - note the words "both" and "and" that I have highlighted: Since this model is equipped with a self-canceling system, the turn signal lights will self-cancel after the vehicle has traveled both about 150 m (490 ft) and for approximately 15 seconds. However, the turn signal lights can also be canceled manually by pushing the switch in after it has returned to the center position. The only time that I have found my signal cancel while sitting still is when I have already had the signal on while approaching a light or stop sign - if the required distance has ALREADY BEEN COVERED before stopping, then the signal can self canx after you stop when the 15 seconds has elapsed. Goose -
Just look at the bottom of this page and select the link for my post on making a hitch mounted holder. I also have highway flags on the saddlebag chrome rails. Goose
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Turn signal question
V7Goose replied to Principal's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Unless there is something wrong with it, it will self canx after a lane change - you just have to ride far enough. In most cases, you probably are ready to cancel it way before the necessary distance. In other cases, if the traffic is heavy, it may shut off before you get a chance to change lanes! Goose -
????? about spark plugs
V7Goose replied to BoomerCPO's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
skidrow, I am not doubting that you experienced what you say, nor can I even hazard a guess as to the cause, but IMHO, it was not the plugs unless the heat range was incorrect. All I can say is that if this was a universal problem with SplitFire plugs, or even just 40% of them, the internet would be FILLED with warnings and complaints. It is not. No, I do not believe everything I see on the internet, but sometimes the shear volume of posts about a product can actually indicate a problem. In this case, there just aren't many. Goose -
????? about spark plugs
V7Goose replied to BoomerCPO's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I don't understand this - I agree that you should stay away from Spitfire plugs, they are just a total waste of money, as are any other plug with multiple ground electrodes. But if they are in the right heat range and thread size, they cannot damage anything. Here is a fact about spark plugs - the spark is gonna jump ONCE between the center electrode and the ground electrode (assuming it is not fouled, in which case it won't jump at all). It does not matter how many different prongs the plug has, the spark will jump over the path of least resistance, meaning the shortest path. If there are two ground electrodes that are absolutely equal in resistance, then the one chosen will simply be random. In general, the center electrode will erode some over time, especially if you don't have platinum, iridium, or some other overly expensive type, but that erosion on the center electrode will never be enough to cause any issues if the bike is running right and the plugs are changed in less than 30,000 miles. If you ever wear out the ground electrode, you got bigger problems! Goose -
There are several older threads with various options listed. I got mine here: http://www.alsmotorcycleaccessories.com/ I bought the "Luggage Rack" instead of the "Cooler Rack". I like it a lot. Sometimes I mount it to the tongue of my trailer, sometimes I just use it alone with the receiver. When I travel solo, however, I just put the cooler on the seat behind me - better weight distribution and less shakeup of the contents. Goose
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????? about spark plugs
V7Goose replied to BoomerCPO's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
No. If you don't think this big V4 is "performing," you are riding it like a long stroke V twin. If you have never hit the rev limiter, you do not have any idea what this engine can really do. Grab a fist full of throttle in first or second and hold on! Don't do it in third unless you got lots of clear road ahead, cause the rev limiter won't hit until you are around 97 MPH in 3rd. This engine does not hit the power curve until it gets above 3.500 RPM, and most people shift by that point. Goose -
Sorry - can't help you at all here. I have changed the plugs in my 05 without any problems at all (and no, I did not have to "yank" on any wires). I don't mean to be a smart-ass, but I just cannot figure out what may be causing your problems. I did remove the tank and the top engine mounts (less than five minutes total for both), but nothing else was needed to change the plugs. And I'm 6'5" and can rarely find gloves big enough for me, so my hands are not particularly small! I hope you get it figured out. Goose
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Get a good set of tires on the bike first before you decide to change the bars. You don't say what tires are on there now, but from your description, I'd bet a fair amount they are the stock Brickstones. Once you have the right tires, you should find the steering at slow speeds is neutral and you are no longer fighting the bars. You may still want to change the bars to get a different length of pull back or different hand position, but you probably won't need better leverage. Goose
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I spent most of the day recently looking for options for Venture paint - Color Rite prices are pretty high and there are a lot of mixed reviews of them. Bottom line was I found two other places that supposedly had touch-up paint in a jar with a brush, but they just didn't look good to me. For a touch-up pen or rattle can paint, including clear coat, only option I could find was Color Rite. Goose
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In my experience, you should be able to get a new one for around $13,500 - $14,000. I'd start by calling Yamaha of Cucamonga (spelling may be way off) in California. They sell a lot on the internet - you can get good starting prices right off their web site. Work your best deal delivered with them, and then use that as a starting point for local negotiations. If nobody gets close, close the deal you started! Goose BTW - my 05 is just about back on the road, so I'm probably gonna be selling my 07 BlueTwo soon. About 14,000 miles and lots of extras
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How do I know if I have a bad rear shock?
V7Goose replied to a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
ABSOLUTELY! Goose -
I can tell you from experience when I ran the MT90 front tire without Leveling Links that my 05 RSV was much more sensitive to any input from the rider or passenger. Before changing to the Avon MT90, while still running the horrible stock Brickstone front tire, my wife could move around a lot while on the highway without my ever feeling it - even sudden head-turns to one direction to try and catch a quick glimpse of something made no difference. After mounting the MT90, any quick moves or leans by either of us was immediately felt in the bike and elicited a very slight change in direction. Before you get alarmed, understand that I am almost exaggerating this change here to make a point of how the tire change affected the handling. I want to stress that this is a GOOD thing, not a bad thing - the bike became much more responsive to rider input and body language. Slight posture changes fine-tuned the machine in the curves, and I never felt like I was having to force the bike to do something like I did with the stock tires. Although it was a surprise the first time my wife suddenly twisted around to look at something after making the tire change, even that was not dangerous or scary in any way - just different than I had experienced with the nasty stock tires. I never noticed any "hunting" or "nervousness" from the narrower tire under any speed or condition, but I suppose the greater responsiveness could be interpreted that way. For me, I always felt the stock RSV with stock tires handled well at any speed above walking, even in tight twisties, but I never felt like I was one with the bike - I very obviously was the rider controlling it. After the change, I truly felt like I was one with it, and the bike and I did things together. Goose Oh, one more thought - if the REAR tire is beginning to flatten out in the middle, it WILL cause the sensation of wandering or twitching, ESPECIALLY if there is any imperfection in the road surface. The more it looses the original rounded profile, the worse this will get. A better front tire, in either size, will allow this to be felt more by the rider.
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Yamaha will replace these (and the entire wind deflector assembly if lost) under warranty. This is a VERY common problem on the RSV. It is caused by wind flex if the rubber bumpers on the bottom of the deflectors do not push against the fork covers. I have documented how to fix this using nylon screws in other posts. Goose
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I can't tell you what is causing this problem, but the first thing I would suspect is a poor ground connection. Second would be right back to checking all the plugs - I'd plug and unplug ALL of the radio harnesses in fairing and under seats at least 5 times each in an effort to clean the oxide off the plug pins. More importantly, however, is that you keep all the paperwork from the service complaints and warranty claims made on this problem. If it continues happening after your warranty expires, the manufacturer MUST honor the warranty claim until it is fixed properly. This is true for any item documented during a warranty period, and it protects you against intermittent problems that cannot be easily isolated and fixed in a timely manner. I believe this is part of The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, the federal law that governs consumer product warranties. The sooner you take it back in for another claim on the same thing after they supposedly fixed it, the better your argument that it actually was never fixed at all. Goose
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The first problem reported in this thread is very common, and it is almost always caused by bad connections in the plugs - they surface oxidize on the pins, and unplugging/replugging several times usually scrapes them clean to start working again. The dielectric grease just prevents this from happening again. I have also noticed a second problem on both of my RSVs (05 and 07) that ONLY happens when using both the radio (or Aux) and the CB. The symptoms are quite similar, but in this case, even the volume control quits functioning and you cannot switch from one radio to the other. In fact, I usually only notice the problem when I try to lower the volume a bit and find out it will not change. In this case, turning off either the radio or the CB, then just turning it back on straightens it all out. This is a very intermittent problem, and I have not been able to find a way to duplicate it at will. Because it happens on both of my bikes, I suspect it is a design flaw and not something that can be fixed. Goose
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1st WEEK of 2008. It's fresh. Goose
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If yours is close without any device to "fix" it, you are in the minority. I have checked both of my RSVs and at least 10 others against my GPS, and all are right at 10% high, meaning if it is indicating 77 MPH, actual speed is 70 MPH. Goose BTW - just because th speedo reads high, do NOT assume the Odometer is also high - my odometer is very close to accurate even tho my speedometer is 10% high.
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Neither of those circuits you used are sufficient for the load you hooked up to them. You popped the 5 amp fuses. Passing lights and horns need a minimum of 10 amp circuit. Do not just increase the fuse size - you will melt the wires and burn up your bike. Goose
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Help!!!!! - No Power
V7Goose replied to StarRider07's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
If the kill switch is not on, then check the main fuse. It is behind the plastic panel behind the passenger's left foot rest. Goose -
Carb Air Vent Hoses to nowhere
V7Goose replied to Mordalo's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Absolutely correct. There are little rectangular brackets right on the front of the air cleaner box that the ends of these hoses just stick through; they are not clamped in or attached in any way. They barely reach, so sometimes they can be a little tricky to get positioned in the brackets. Goose -
Just thought I would pass on this bit of information - my dealer told me several years ago that Avon has by far the best customer service and stands by their warranty far better than any other brand. That's second hand information, since I have not had any reason to contact them directly myself, but it seems to match the general consensus here. Goose